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Old 10-17-2011, 03:30 PM   #33541
kenny61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
I wonder if the XRR clamps will work on the XRL? Perhaps with All Balls bearings?

heers the all bals chart

http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconvertion
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Old 10-17-2011, 05:00 PM   #33542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlpinaE24 View Post
I take it you are adjusting them with the motor stone cold, right?
The bike was warm as that was the best we could come up with. And I am sure we were on the compression stroke. We'll try again stoney cold.
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Old 10-17-2011, 05:33 PM   #33543
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Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Your going to need different triple clamps. The XRR fork tubes are bigger in diameter (no kidding, Really??) than the XRL tubes.

Somebody did that swap recently. Saw that pics about a week ago here on the thread. I think a custom upper clamp was needed but bearings weren't too bad... Some one else?
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Old 10-17-2011, 05:39 PM   #33544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taco250 View Post
Somebody did that swap recently. Saw that pics about a week ago here on the thread. I think a custom upper clamp was needed but bearings weren't too bad... Some one else?

Flatfender
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:24 PM   #33545
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:06 PM   #33546
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Originally Posted by MR HANCOCK View Post
here's a question for ya'll..my brother is taking the fork's off of his XR65OR to put on CRF450R-USD forks
will his XR650R fork's mount on my XR650L.??? seeing how the XR650R fork's are suppose to be stronger




to mount on my bike.? or will i need a wheel spacer kit ?--pro's /con's any info is helpful..thank's




or should i just stay with what i got.? (stock)
I first considered XR650R forks to add performance and retain the stock XR look, plus they donít need a fork brace, which I never liked on my XR, it seemed to transfer to much wheel-following to the frame making the bike wiggly and feel top heavy on gravel. The 650R forks are also the correct length unlike other popular fork conversions which helps it steer.

I decided to pull the trigger on the XR650R forks because of one major factor; Bruce Borynack, he used to have a nice website but I think heís moved on, now itís just a few documents you can download. http://borynack.com/XR650R/ There youíll find the details on adjusting the shim stack and springs to suit your riding style. It seems everyone at Thumper Talk that has followed his instruction rave about the results. Know this first before considering this fork conversion, the 650R forks are not very good stock. Hereís a paraphrase from a 650R thread.

ďThe major problem with the XR650R suspension is Honda's idea of making a heavy off road bike that was designed for a 170 pound person work for a 270 pound person as well. To do this they put viscosity modifiers (whale oil) in the fork oil and closed down the compression valve ports from the original design. They made the same ports even smaller around 2005 till they stopped making the bike. This makes for forks with stock .43kg/mm springs (170 pound person) that lock up (hydro-lock) when compressed to fast. The reason for this???? to sell as many bikes as possible to the Weekend Warriors knowing that any serious rider is going to setup the suspension for their riding/racing style. This "stock" setup doesn't work well for even someone that is the right weight. It isn't even a good compromise. Once you build the suspension back to the original design and install springs for your weight and a shim stack for your riding style the XR650R suspension becomes ultra plush and resists bottoming up to 4 foot dead drop off's! More if youíre moving along at a good clip.Ē

Hereís what I did, first I wanted to keep my RSW upper triple clamp with a damper mount under the handlebars. If you're not familiar they're found on ebay, guys name is Ron Wallace, he will make you anything you want or sell you off the shelf stuff like what I got.

So, the 650L and 650R have a different offset so the stems wonít line up. Itís an easy work-around, you machine out the 650R lower triple clamp for a bushing that fits the 650L stem, but machine it at 24mm offset instead of the 650R 25mm offset, no big deal. Then you use the stock 650L stem, bearings and seals. Now you have a 650R front end with a shorter offset, 1mm doesnít sound like much but the bike definitely steers easier through rocky trails.

Then I had my old RSW upper triple clamp fork tube bores bored to 46mm, itís got plenty of meat for this if you change the lower triple clamp to 24mm offset, if not it doesnít. The two clamping bolts are still .5mm from the tubes, and the thinnest part that clamps the tube is still 5mm, which is what an Emig or Applied upper triple clamps have, so thatís plenty beefy enough. The 650L and 650R have the same centers on their fork tube distances so you just bore the holes from 43mm to 46mm on the same centers.

The 650R steering stops are different, I just welded triangle shaped pieces of plate to the frame to mimic what the 650R has.

The XR-L wheel works but you need the longer 650R axle. Also you need to move the rotor away from the fork tube a bit, the washer off the rear axle is almost the perfect size, you need to enlarge the hole with a rotary file very slightly and then it works. This washer goes between the left side spacer and the left fork tube, then the rotor and XR-L caliper line up. The speedo drive needs a little bit removed where it touches the larger fork sleeve, less than a quarter inch off the plastic housing is needed. The stock wheel has a larger rotor than the 650R, bonus!

Now of course you could use the stock 650R triples with the all-balls lower stem bearing, $40, add the Rox Risers to move the bars forward and up. But you don't get the steering lock or a sub mount for the Scott's damper like with the RSW unit.

It wasnít a lot of work just time consuming but it paid off, the feel on gravel at 70 is just superb, and I can maintain that during an entire riding session. The firm but plush dampening and stronger rebound control give the bike a very different feel from stock, the bike moves right through the rocky trails with ease so lower gearing like 14/48 is not needed.

One thing thatís kind of funny is I was all jacked to follow the Bruce Borynack method but the forks I bought had already been set up by Fineline Suspension and worked great, so I sent them my shock and specs and now I have a different bike.

PM me and we can talk on the phone to get into more details, itís a very worthwhile swap. You need the forks, axle and triple clamps, looks like you got everything I say go for it.

Hereís a picture that shows the RSW upper clamp has the meat to bore it to 46mm and the bolts donít interfere with the tubes.


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Old 10-17-2011, 11:34 PM   #33547
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Originally Posted by sc-razor View Post
That's the same thing I did per your advice and it has worked flawlessly!
Thanks for the feedback, Razor. I'm glad the Arandelas washer worked well for you!

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Old 10-18-2011, 01:15 AM   #33548
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oil filters

Maybe a stupid question but I'm going to ask it anyway.

Going through my old parts box, I found a couple new Honda oem oil filters, still in the plastic wrap. I think they're between 1-2 years old. Do paper filters like these have a shelf life, or are they good forever (unused of course)? Do they 'dry out' or otherwise deteriorate after so long? I'm due for another oil change and would like to use them if they're ok.

Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:41 AM   #33549
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Originally Posted by N7XW View Post
Maybe a stupid question but I'm going to ask it anyway.

Going through my old parts box, I found a couple new Honda oem oil filters, still in the plastic wrap. I think they're between 1-2 years old. Do paper filters like these have a shelf life, or are they good forever (unused of course)? Do they 'dry out' or otherwise deteriorate after so long? I'm due for another oil change and would like to use them if they're ok.

Thanks.
IMHO, use um.
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Old 10-18-2011, 07:01 AM   #33550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N7XW View Post
Maybe a stupid question but I'm going to ask it anyway.

Going through my old parts box, I found a couple new Honda oem oil filters, still in the plastic wrap. I think they're between 1-2 years old. Do paper filters like these have a shelf life, or are they good forever (unused of course)? Do they 'dry out' or otherwise deteriorate after so long? I'm due for another oil change and would like to use them if they're ok.

Thanks.
My $.02: A couple of years old... it is likely that you will find filters at the dealer that are that old. If they had been sitting in a 120 degree workshed for 20 years, I might think twice about using them, but two years is nothing. Run 'em!
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Old 10-18-2011, 07:31 AM   #33551
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Looking for OEM mirrors for anyone that can spare them!
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...4#post17101114


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Old 10-18-2011, 09:49 AM   #33552
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N7XW View Post
Maybe a stupid question but I'm going to ask it anyway.

Going through my old parts box, I found a couple new Honda oem oil filters, still in the plastic wrap. I think they're between 1-2 years old. Do paper filters like these have a shelf life, or are they good forever (unused of course)? Do they 'dry out' or otherwise deteriorate after so long? I'm due for another oil change and would like to use them if they're ok.

Thanks.
I agree with Fritz and Red; I would use them.

Spud
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:53 AM   #33553
jungleplant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael.brat View Post
Looking for OEM mirrors for anyone that can spare them!
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...4#post17101114


Mike B
mike i have one but its cracked still want it
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:54 AM   #33554
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I agree with Fritz and Red; I would use them.

Spud
out in the open NO but in a bag sure should be AOK
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:06 AM   #33555
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oil filters

thanks for the input guys, appreciate it.
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