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Old 11-27-2011, 09:01 AM   #34831
RoadHawg14
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Taillight Conversion for XR650L

Anyone know of a better Tailight Conversion for the XR650L purchased a Western Power Sports Unniversal Tail Light about 5 months ago. Completely out after 5 months need to purchase another Taillight would like to have one that will last alot longer or trouble free.
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:35 AM   #34832
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadHawg14 View Post
Anyone know of a better Tailight Conversion for the XR650L purchased a Western Power Sports Unniversal Tail Light about 5 months ago. Completely out after 5 months need to purchase another Taillight would like to have one that will last alot longer or trouble free.
When you say "completely out after 5 months," do you mean the bulb has extinguished, or has the tail light failed in some other manner? I have ridden a lot of miles with my Western Powers Sports Tail Light, and I like it very much. However, I replaced the incandescent bulb with a Trail Tech 1157 LED bulb I purchased from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...&stockId=45544

Incandescent tail light bulbs won't last very long subjected to the harsh vibrations they receive at the tail end of a Honda XR650L. I always replace my incandescent, tail light bulbs with LED bulbs as soon as the old bulbs extinguish.

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:49 AM   #34833
elsalvadorklr
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western tailight

yup...the original bulb wont last long...so I replaced mine too..

haven't put an led yet but sounds like a great idea...

I also noticed the mounting bolts are a little too long and if you bottom out it will bend and possibly break the tailight mount.

Other than that I like the flush design.

cheers
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:20 AM   #34834
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Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
I have a question about the rollers...

are they free to roll out back on the slider? if so thats why they make noise...no matter what you use if they are free to move they will rattle and like spud said eventually will make brittle the bolts and holes cause of the vibration...
I agree; that's why I stopped selling my Spud Rollers. If you reinforce the bolts holes with metal supports, the chain slide rollers will work well, and last a very long time. However, I was looking for a bolt-on solution that didn't require modification of the stock chain slider. If one wants to modify the stock chain slider, or buy a different, metal chain slider, chain rollers will work. However, the chain rollers will always be more noisy than the OEM chain slider. For most people, including myself, I think it's easier to stick with the stock chain slider. Therefore, I stopped selling my Spud Rollers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
...I hope he doesnt mind but I have a modified version at least for the front roller on the frame...

Its a roller, but I used a cart/kart plastic/rubber wheel that I bought for pennies at the hardware store then mounted it as the frame roller near the swingarm...under the chain.

Its circular BUT NOT FREE TO MOVE..whenever one side gets used up and flattened I just turn the roller to where it has fresh meat and keep on riding...

Its so cheap I dont worry about how fast it wears as its pennies compared to 20 or so bucks for the honda part...plus it looks stock...
That's a good idea. Thanks for sharing it with us.

I'm pleased to report the commercial, sealed bearing, chain roller I substituted for my "chain slipper" is still working superbly after 18,800 miles. Here is a photograph I took today of this chain roller.



This front chain roller is very quiet. It is also very securely attached; it has never loosened. Other than a yearly inspection, this chain roller is virtually maintenance free. I applied new grease to the bearings many miles ago, and this roller still spins very freely. I like this modification very much, and I can recommend it without any reservations.

Spud
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Old 11-27-2011, 01:51 PM   #34835
elsalvadorklr
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nice..that is what I was looking for but I would have to import something similar from the states and its not that feasible..

18k miles? nice going!

Good stuff, I found the closest thing down here...

cheers!

christian
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:11 PM   #34836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post

Conclusion. If time is important then go with Cheapcycleparts. If not then CycleCentralPowerSports is the best deal money wise.

Just my .02
Cool, thanks for the heads up. I've got to place a few orders soon.

-Barron
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:16 PM   #34837
LexLeroy
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Piggy Sue gets dirty... uh, dusty.

Went out to the Daniel Boone National Forest this last Friday to take advantage of what may be some of our last warm weather. While most of the roads are paved (unfortunately) there are still a few gravel and dirt forest roads.



And this is an official county road:



I kept out of the gnarlier sections being that it's still deer season and all, but now I have a better understanding of prior discussions on gearing, particularly the notorious 1st / 2nd gear jump. I'll most likely continue to poke around out here until the mid-day temperature gets below 36 degrees F - not much fun for me when it's colder than that.
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:54 PM   #34838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
For a long time I used Service Honda to source my parts. Even with their weird program to see the parts fich I was a customer for years.

Then I found Cheapcycleparts when looking for an ignition switch for my KTM. Cheapcycleparts was cheaper and shipping charges were the same as was the delivery time as Service Honda. I did come to find that if you placed an online order the parts would show up faster than if you called in your order to a live human.

This brings me to CycleCentralPowerSports. I found their pricing even cheaper than Cheapcycleparts but the shipping was a couple of dollars more. Over all the order was still cheaper than Cheapcycleparts. I recently placed an order for a NX650 second gear and a couple of gaskets on November 10th. The order arrived last Friday. Fifteen days from online order to my door.

Conclusion. If time is important then go with Cheapcycleparts. If not then CycleCentralPowerSports is the best deal money wise.

Just my .02

Right on.

Right before we left for Baja, I found the CRF230 was leaking oil from the top cam sprocket cover, so I ordered a new gasket and o-ring from both CheapCycleParts and Service Honda because I needed to make sure I got it in time. Same exact order from both places, orders both placed at the same time... the CheapCycleParts order came a week earlier than the Service Honda order. I think Service Honda was slightly cheaper on that one though.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:49 PM   #34839
tjrockit
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Originally Posted by tjrockit View Post
ebay - I think this is the seller
http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/l...84.m1439.l2754

It's been great, no issues and I know it has protected the disc a number of times.
Here is the ebay listing

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XR650L-XR-65...sories&vxp=mtr

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Old 11-27-2011, 07:53 PM   #34840
Lonestar2112
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I was working on converting the plain Jane into Lilli, I was taking my time, not in a real hurry. I start pulling off the hardware and I hear "snap". I managed to break off one of the bolts for the block off plates.

So tomorrow I am off the the hardware store for a bolt extractor. In order to make room to get the drill in place I have to pull the headers off. Is there any real advantage to grinding the weld on the headers? I am not tyring to wring every last HP out of the beast. I am figuring at best we at talking 1HP difference. Am I wrong? Should I grind out the welds while the headers are off?

If so, how do I do it w/o f' ing up?
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:16 AM   #34841
tjrockit
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Osram Rallye 70/65w +50 H4 bulb

Someone posted a long time ago about this replacement bulb.

http://store.candlepower.com/64205.html

Wanted to find out an update if you still like it and if it was a direct replacement (plug and play) no mods required.

Thanks!!



Osram Rallye 70/65w +50 H4 bulb

Osram's 70/65W ultra high efficacy +50 H4 bulb, for motorcycles and special-service use, produces more light than any 60/55w bulb: 2000/1350 lumens, high/low beam. It is compatible with most stock wiring harnesses.
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2007 Honda XR650L
Dirt Roads within a 100 mile radius of Austin, TX
*** The views or comments I express on this site and/or on any other site/forum/social media are strictly my own and do not reflect any past, current or future employer and/or any organization. They are solely my own personal opinions.***

tjrockit screwed with this post 11-28-2011 at 09:55 AM
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:57 AM   #34842
mcma111
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http://store.candlepower.com/64205.html
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:32 AM   #34843
tjrockit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Yep, that's the same one I posted. Are you using that bulb Steve?
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*** The views or comments I express on this site and/or on any other site/forum/social media are strictly my own and do not reflect any past, current or future employer and/or any organization. They are solely my own personal opinions.***
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:33 PM   #34844
bwalsh
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This is not a stinkin oil thread

Well maybe fork oil.
When the temp drops here in the next few weeks I'm going to pull the front end off, re-grease/replace the steering head bearings and service the forks.
This will be the first time I've had the forks apart. I know it's not too difficult a job but I have a few questions...
1: What type and weight oil for a 230lb rider riding fairly tame terrain, fire roads? Go with what the service manual calls for, Pro Honda Suspension fluid SS-7 or...? I'm sure you guys know of something better, cheaper.
2: After 35,000 miles would there be any benefit replacing the springs? If so what would you recommend? I don't have any problems with the way the bike handles but I'm curious if there would be a noticeable, improved difference in the handling.
3: The service manual calls for the oil level of 5.7" if I'm reading it correctly.
You just stick a ruler down inside the fork to measure?
4: The service manual calls for the amount of oil to be 19.1 oz if I'm reading that correctly. I'll only need 1 quart of oil for both forks?
5: Any tips, comments regarding the forks?


On to another option...Upside down forks. What forks are the best to look for when considering this mod? Whats a fair price?

I've been looking at other bikes but keep coming back to this one. It's just perfect for what I do with a bike! I think I'm going to invest a little money in this bike instead of another.

One last thing. Does anyone have their stock rear suspension link they aren't going to use? My bike came with a Koubalink and I didn't get the stock one. I've been toying with the idea of raising it back to stock height.

Sorry for the long post. Any and all help appreciated!
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:45 PM   #34845
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
Well maybe fork oil.
When the temp drops here in the next few weeks I'm going to pull the front end off, re-grease/replace the steering head bearings and service the forks.
This will be the first time I've had the forks apart. I know it's not too difficult a job but I have a few questions...
1: What type and weight oil for a 230lb rider riding fairly tame terrain, fire roads? Go with what the service manual calls for, Pro Honda Suspension fluid SS-7 or...? I'm sure you guys know of something better, cheaper.
2: After 35,000 miles would there be any benefit replacing the springs? If so what would you recommend? I don't have any problems with the way the bike handles but I'm curious if there would be a noticeable, improved difference in the handling.
3: The service manual calls for the oil level of 5.7" if I'm reading it correctly.
You just stick a ruler down inside the fork to measure?
4: The service manual calls for the amount of oil to be 19.1 oz if I'm reading that correctly. I'll only need 1 quart of oil for both forks?
5: Any tips, comments regarding the forks?


On to another option...Upside down forks. What forks are the best to look for when considering this mod? Whats a fair price?

I've been looking at other bikes but keep coming back to this one. It's just perfect for what I do with a bike! I think I'm going to invest a little money in this bike instead of another.

One last thing. Does anyone have their stock rear suspension link they aren't going to use? My bike came with a Koubalink and I didn't get the stock one. I've been toying with the idea of raising it back to stock height.

Sorry for the long post. Any and all help appreciated!
If your riding is limited to pavement and occasional fire roads, investing in USDs may not yield much more than bling. Mine handled OK on fireroads with the OEM forks, but got sketchy once I got off road and really starting pushing it. The USDs stiffened up the front end a BUNCH and helps it go where I point it.
My bike had a lowering link on it when I bought it. I bought an OEM link on Ebay for cheap and sold the lowering link. The lowering links provide more leverage than the stock link and as a result make the rear end blow throw the shock's travel very easily. You can buy a stiffer spring to counter the effect of the longer link, but you end up with less sag which kind of defeats the purpose... If you are tall enough to not need the link.... buy an OEM one for cheap and make a few bucks off of the KoubaLink.

My $.02...
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