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Old 11-28-2011, 02:57 PM   #34846
sambking
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Discount OE parts

Thanks for the heads up on cheapcycleparts.com. Looks like a great resource.
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:47 PM   #34847
AndyCBR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
Well maybe fork oil.
When the temp drops here in the next few weeks I'm going to pull the front end off, re-grease/replace the steering head bearings and service the forks.
This will be the first time I've had the forks apart. I know it's not too difficult a job but I have a few questions...
1: What type and weight oil for a 230lb rider riding fairly tame terrain, fire roads? Go with what the service manual calls for, Pro Honda Suspension fluid SS-7 or...? I'm sure you guys know of something better, cheaper.
2: After 35,000 miles would there be any benefit replacing the springs? If so what would you recommend? I don't have any problems with the way the bike handles but I'm curious if there would be a noticeable, improved difference in the handling.
3: The service manual calls for the oil level of 5.7" if I'm reading it correctly.
You just stick a ruler down inside the fork to measure?
4: The service manual calls for the amount of oil to be 19.1 oz if I'm reading that correctly. I'll only need 1 quart of oil for both forks?
5: Any tips, comments regarding the forks?


On to another option...Upside down forks. What forks are the best to look for when considering this mod? Whats a fair price?

I've been looking at other bikes but keep coming back to this one. It's just perfect for what I do with a bike! I think I'm going to invest a little money in this bike instead of another.

One last thing. Does anyone have their stock rear suspension link they aren't going to use? My bike came with a Koubalink and I didn't get the stock one. I've been toying with the idea of raising it back to stock height.

Sorry for the long post. Any and all help appreciated!

1. I used Bel Ray 10w in mine. Any quality fork oil should be fine.
2. Check the spring free length to see if they are in spec. If you are using stock springs you are undersprung for your weight. If you don't have the right springs for your weight nows the time. On that note if you are undersprung (front and rear) and have the rear lowered by the link I suspect the bike is not turning very well.
3. That sounds right for the level. That is measured fully compressed from the top, no spring and AFTER the air is bled (see the manual). Some use a fancy tool, some a turkey baster, some a ruler.
4. I can't remember but get 2 just in case there is a spill (easy to do).
5. With that many miles I would replace the upper and lower bushings. They are very cheap and besides the oil are the actual wear item in the fork. Clean everything, new seals (a proper seal driver helps-see pitposse or rswracing), grease the outside of the fork seal before trying to drive it or you will have to beat the shit out of it, use electrical tape or a sandwich bag as shown in the factory manual to prevent damage to the seal when sliding the new one over the tube.

On the USD's I would hold off and get the suspension sorted for your weight before you do anything else. $200 or so for proper front and rear springs for your weight will make a world of difference. Additionally with that many miles I suspect the damping in your rear shock is minimal at best. It's way past time to have the rear shock serviced (great time to change the spring too) and since you want to spend some money having a quality suspension shop revalve the rear would be money well spent.

Just to be clear I'm not suggesting changing the springs because they are worn but because if stock they are not the right rate to begin with for a 230# rider.

Hope this helps,
Andy
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Old 11-28-2011, 03:59 PM   #34848
beechum1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyCBR
Additionally with that many miles I suspect the damping in your rear shock is minimal at best. It's way past time to have the rear shock serviced (great time to change the spring too) and since you want to spend some money having a quality suspension shop revalve the rear would be money well spent.
I'll post a link again to the rear suspension rebuild sheets I have when I get back to the room. The hardest part is getting an air free cylinder and even that has a good workaround.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwZ...thkey=CO-Np5cM Shock Service

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwZ...thkey=CJX3lpcH Parts Fiche Blow Up
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dread Pendragon View Post
Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.

beechum1 screwed with this post 11-28-2011 at 05:27 PM
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:37 PM   #34849
bwalsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
If your riding is limited to pavement and occasional fire roads, investing in USDs may not yield much more than bling.
My bike had a lowering link on it when I bought it. I bought an OEM link on Ebay for cheap and sold the lowering link. The lowering links provide more leverage than the stock link and as a result make the rear end blow throw the shock's travel very easily. You can buy a stiffer spring to counter the effect of the longer link, but you end up with less sag which kind of defeats the purpose... If you are tall enough to not need the link.... buy an OEM one for cheap and make a few bucks off of the KoubaLink.

My $.02...
That was more like $2.00!
You are right regarding to the USD forks, although I might be more inclined to take it off road more with a better suspension.
I may go the Ebay route for another link.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyCBR View Post
1. I used Bel Ray 10w in mine. Any quality fork oil should be fine.
2. Check the spring free length to see if they are in spec. If you are using stock springs you are undersprung for your weight. If you don't have the right springs for your weight nows the time. On that note if you are undersprung (front and rear) and have the rear lowered by the link I suspect the bike is not turning very well.
3. That sounds right for the level. That is measured fully compressed from the top, no spring and AFTER the air is bled (see the manual). Some use a fancy tool, some a turkey baster, some a ruler.
4. I can't remember but get 2 just in case there is a spill (easy to do).
5. With that many miles I would replace the upper and lower bushings. They are very cheap and besides the oil are the actual wear item in the fork. Clean everything, new seals (a proper seal driver helps-see pitposse or rswracing), grease the outside of the fork seal before trying to drive it or you will have to beat the shit out of it, use electrical tape or a sandwich bag as shown in the factory manual to prevent damage to the seal when sliding the new one over the tube.

On the USD's I would hold off and get the suspension sorted for your weight before you do anything else. $200 or so for proper front and rear springs for your weight will make a world of difference. Additionally with that many miles I suspect the damping in your rear shock is minimal at best. It's way past time to have the rear shock serviced (great time to change the spring too) and since you want to spend some money having a quality suspension shop revalve the rear would be money well spent.

Just to be clear I'm not suggesting changing the springs because they are worn but because if stock they are not the right rate to begin with for a 230# rider.

Hope this helps,
Andy
I have known it was under sprung but I have just been dealing with it. I haven't wanted to sink any money into the bike except for wear items, until now.
AFAIK the bike handles fine, actually great for a bike with knobbys! I've surprised a few of my riding buddies.
I better go read the manual. I haven't really looked too close at that section yet so I didn't catch anything about bleeding air while fully compressed, etc.
10w was what I was thinking too. OK, and I'll need a Seal driver. I guess stock bushings and seals are good enough. Got link for a good set of springs?
As far as the rear shock, I assumed it will need some attention along with the front but I want to tackle the front end first.
I'll get to it next tear down.

Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:37 PM   #34850
bwalsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
I'll post a link again to the rear suspension rebuild sheets I have when I get back to the room. The hardest part is getting an air free cylinder and even that has a good workaround.
Thanks! So I assume you have done this.?

Also, I need a 43mm seal driver correct?
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bwalsh screwed with this post 11-28-2011 at 05:10 PM
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:31 PM   #34851
beechum1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
Thanks! So I assume you have done this.?

Also, I need a 43mm seal driver correct?
I have, on the shock taht's on my bike right now. seal driver.... I don't remember what I used, but it wasn't special tool, unless you count me.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dread Pendragon View Post
Mention to HogWild which way the wind is blowing where you're at, wait 20 minutes, and he'll post a picture of the intersection your at and a Google Earth route of how to get there.
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:58 PM   #34852
michael.brat
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Location: Los Angeles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R80GSPDPETE View Post
Hello XRL owners.
I recently bought a very nicely set up 2006 XR650L. I bought it to do more trail riding as my 1150 GSA is just too heavy for that kind of riding and I realized its the kind or riding I would like to do more of.

The bike I bought came with all the stuff to convert it to a Supermoto type bike but I have no desire to do this conversion.
I will list all the parts I can think of and would like to know what they are worth if sold as a parcel.

CR USD forks
Two sets of fork clamps with stems and bearings, one looks like its from a CR and the other is a billet aluminum aftermarket.
handlebar mounts for billet aluminum triple tree
Excel 17" front and back aluminum rims
Avon Distanza tires brand new never mounted
Stainless Spokes to fit Excel rims to stock hubs
Brake disc to fit on USD forks

so what's all that stuff worth?

Thanks for your input...... I will list it all for sale in the appropriate Flea Market area once I have a better understanding of its value.

Pete
Hey Pete,

Ever get an answer on your supermoto stuff? There are a lot of posts per day on here so try posting the question again.

Mike B
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:01 PM   #34853
jungleplant
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Location: ManRacks, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R80GSPDPETE View Post
Hello XRL owners.
I recently bought a very nicely set up 2006 XR650L. I bought it to do more trail riding as my 1150 GSA is just too heavy for that kind of riding and I realized its the kind or riding I would like to do more of.

The bike I bought came with all the stuff to convert it to a Supermoto type bike but I have no desire to do this conversion.
I will list all the parts I can think of and would like to know what they are worth if sold as a parcel.

CR USD forks
Two sets of fork clamps with stems and bearings, one looks like its from a CR and the other is a billet aluminum aftermarket.
handlebar mounts for billet aluminum triple tree
Excel 17" front and back aluminum rims
Avon Distanza tires brand new never mounted
Stainless Spokes to fit Excel rims to stock hubs
Brake disc to fit on USD forks

so what's all that stuff worth?

Thanks for your input...... I will list it all for sale in the appropriate Flea Market area once I have a better understanding of its value.

Pete
is it on the flea market yet
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:46 PM   #34854
tjrockit
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Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 1,210
Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
I'll post a link again to the rear suspension rebuild sheets I have when I get back to the room. The hardest part is getting an air free cylinder and even that has a good workaround.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwZ...thkey=CO-Np5cM Shock Service

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwZ...thkey=CJX3lpcH Parts Fiche Blow Up
Thanks for posting this info. Even though I don't need it right now, I always save it off for if or when I do.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:19 PM   #34855
zulusafari
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New bars (maybe risers)

Hey gents, I know this topic has been kicked around a few times, but I need some condensed feedback and help on a few questions I have about new bars. WARNING: they may come across as elementary and NOOB, because they are, so I don't need to be reminded (mcma111)...

I live over in Kenya and my pig (piki) is there, so I don't have the bike to try stuff on and fail/return equipment, so I need to try and get this right with my first try. I am 6', 205lbs. Everything is stock height on my bike (seat, bars, spring).

Right now my bars and controls are all stock. I have a few things mounted on them like barkbusters, etc.

I would like to go higher and go stronger. I would also love to do away with the support bar in the middle, if possible.

I think I can go with some CR High Bends and a 1" riser. The question and confusion for me comes with: if I want to go to a 1 1/4" fat bar, I will now need to get a riser that goes from 7/8" to 1 1/4", no problem. When a bar is called 'taper' is this when they taper down to 7/8" so all my controls will fit okay? Anyone have problems attaching OEM controls onto taper bars? Will I still be able to use my barkbusters or do I need different attachments now? Will the bars be fatter there?

I want to go stronger, because the closest set of bars will be 2,000miles away. So I'd prefer they don't break/bend to begin with.

Am I just making this all to hard on myself? Should I just buy 7/8" bars so that I know I won't have any problems reattaching all my controls/barkbusters?

Thanks to all for your help. Maybe some day I'll have a XRL in Texas and we can go riding. PS. Ur always welcome to visit in Kenya! I've got an extra room waiting for all inmates.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:27 PM   #34856
jungleplant
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zulusafari View Post
Hey gents, I know this topic has been kicked around a few times, but I need some condensed feedback and help on a few questions I have about new bars. WARNING: they may come across as elementary and NOOB, because they are, so I don't need to be reminded (mcma111)...

I live over in Kenya and my pig (piki) is there, so I don't have the bike to try stuff on and fail/return equipment, so I need to try and get this right with my first try. I am 6', 205lbs. Everything is stock height on my bike (seat, bars, spring).

Right now my bars and controls are all stock. I have a few things mounted on them like barkbusters, etc.

I would like to go higher and go stronger. I would also love to do away with the support bar in the middle, if possible.

I think I can go with some CR High Bends and a 1" riser. The question and confusion for me comes with: if I want to go to a 1 1/4" fat bar, I will now need to get a riser that goes from 7/8" to 1 1/4", no problem. When a bar is called 'taper' is this when they taper down to 7/8" so all my controls will fit okay? Anyone have problems attaching OEM controls onto taper bars? Will I still be able to use my barkbusters or do I need different attachments now? Will the bars be fatter there?

I want to go stronger, because the closest set of bars will be 2,000miles away. So I'd prefer they don't break/bend to begin with.

Am I just making this all to hard on myself? Should I just buy 7/8" bars so that I know I won't have any problems reattaching all my controls/barkbusters?

Thanks to all for your help. Maybe some day I'll have a XRL in Texas and we can go riding. PS. Ur always welcome to visit in Kenya! I've got an extra room waiting for all inmates.
Been riding since 1967 when i was just a yonker
and to this day i have never seen anybody brake a set of bars unless it was a bad crash like over a cliff, they came factory just plain old steel tubing,,,,,,,,,, then all the sudden they were not good enough, HUH
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:31 PM   #34857
zulusafari
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Re: Bars

Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleplant View Post
Been riding since 1967 when i was just a yonker
and to this day i have never seen anybody brake a set of bars unless it was a bad crash like over a cliff, they came factory just plain old steel tubing,,,,,,,,,, then all the sudden they were not good enough, HUH
Thanks jungleplant for the thoughts. I probably go down a lot more than your average rider, so though I don't see my bars actually 'breaking' I easily see them getting bent one day. Anything I can do to minimize that, I would love to do. Is it worth the hassle of getting 1 1/4" bars (tapered) over the 7/8" bars? Do I have to use the center bar on the 7/8" bars? I'm guessing that if I'm going to be anal about them getting bent, I should not even ask, but I'd really like to get rid of that bar, part of my reason for going to the fat bars.

Is my thinking/reasoning right here?
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:37 PM   #34858
mendoteach
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Location: Mendocino, NorCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
When you say "completely out after 5 months," do you mean the bulb has extinguished, or has the tail light failed in some other manner? I have ridden a lot of miles with my Western Powers Sports Tail Light, and I like it very much. However, I replaced the incandescent bulb with a Trail Tech 1157 LED bulb I purchased from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/pr...&stockId=45544

Incandescent tail light bulbs won't last very long subjected to the harsh vibrations they receive at the tail end of a Honda XR650L. I always replace my incandescent, tail light bulbs with LED bulbs as soon as the old bulbs extinguish.

Spud
Spud, may ask what LED conversion you used? BTW, my Spud roller conversion seems to be working well!
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:43 PM   #34859
mendoteach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zulusafari View Post
Thanks jungleplant for the thoughts. I probably go down a lot more than your average rider, so though I don't see my bars actually 'breaking' I easily see them getting bent one day. Anything I can do to minimize that, I would love to do. Is it worth the hassle of getting 1 1/4" bars (tapered) over the 7/8" bars? Do I have to use the center bar on the 7/8" bars? I'm guessing that if I'm going to be anal about them getting bent, I should not even ask, but I'd really like to get rid of that bar, part of my reason for going to the fat bars.

Is my thinking/reasoning right here?
I have bent every set of stock, pot metal bars that came on a EVERY Japanese bike I have ever crashed. And that's every bike I've owned. I have never even tweaked a pair of Pro Tapers. Not to mention the sweep on the stock bars is so bad it makes me feel like I'm riding a Virago or something.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:50 PM   #34860
zulusafari
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Re: bars

Quote:
Originally Posted by mendoteach View Post
I have bent every set of stock, pot metal bars that came on a EVERY Japanese bike I have ever crashed. And that's every bike I've owned. I have never even tweaked a pair of Pro Tapers. Not to mention the sweep on the stock bars is so bad it makes me feel like I'm riding a Virago or something.
So, reading between the lines, would you suggest just sticking with 7/8" as long as it's Pro Tapers, they will be strong enough?
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