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Old 04-05-2012, 05:07 AM   #40981
kenny61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLICKIT View Post
I've experienced much the same thing, it had me worried for a while...

I've recently done a rebuild and noticed a ticking when I first started it back up, it wasn't a loud or bad sounding tick, just not what I would consider normal with the valves adjusted right... It wasn't the normal noise the decompressor makes when cold (my decompressor has always been bit rattly when cold, I think it's normal)... I re-check the oil flow and valve clearances, they were fine...

After taking it for a decent ride the tick went away and hasn't returned.... I've since done 500km without an issue... I'm still not sure what caused the tick...

The decompressor operation you describe with the snap is the same as what I observed... I "believe" it's normal...
Yes the click is normal.. but yoyu have to set that valve in the right spot.. cant remember if its before or after ..
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:26 AM   #40982
mcma111
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After.

And if you miss it you can't back up, need to go around again
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:39 AM   #40983
Barron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
After.

And if you miss it you can't back up, need to go around again
+1... I learned the hard way...

-Barron
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:42 AM   #40984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 103M 95G View Post
Evening gents, New Inmate here. 2007 xr650l bone stock, other than the skid plate. I will be installing a Manrack thisweekend. I have a few other parts that came with the bike but i haven't installed yet, (smog delet, carb jets, K&N filter)
I am currently looking a new tires like the shinko 705s or perilli scorpions, I ride mostly on road so I was looking for more street tire to replace the "death wings"
Later.

I've got the scorpions on mine and they are great, they grip really well and ride smooth. I have only done about 8 or 9 hundred miles on them though so I can't tell you from experience how long they live...

-Barron
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:56 AM   #40985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyardroad View Post
Tick ! decompressor question

I have completed my rebuild with a CW BFH and piston, and have a question.

First though, oil pressure verified, valves adjusted and readjusted methodically.

Upon startup there was a noticeable tick in the upper valvetrain. I rode the bike 2/10ths of a mile, good power, no performance problems, ticking ever present.

I pulled the left side case caps, put the mark on T, then rotate the engine counterclockwise with a 17 mm on a short breaker bar. At slightly more than 270 deg, (about 2 o clock) there is an audible snap, and I can see the right rocker move. This happens every other rotation, no adjustments make any difference.

I believe the decompressor is the problem. It came installed, I ass u me d all was well, it's not. I really see no choice in removing the cam, but don't know what to look for that would cause this.

Ideas appreciated.
This is normal with the higher lift cam and the stiffer valve springs.
The cam has more ramp angle than the stock oem sowing machine one
It will lighten up once the cam and rockers are broken in.
The specs for the valve clearance are .004 int.....004 ex.......
That snapping sound you hear is the auto-comp, with the heavy valve springs it makes the noise more distinct then with the lighter springs.
If you want the sowing machine sound I will have to grind you a different cam, you can send it back to me and I will exchange it for you with a cam with slower ramp angles.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:10 AM   #40986
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malignity View Post
After cleaning the already clean looking carb and putting it back in, I got quite the surprise as my top speed was 83mph at full throttle twist on the freeway. With a 300lb rider and running Kenda 760's, I'm not sure if I can get much more than that (but would like another 10mph if possible! lol) Better than the 65 max I was getting.

What made the ride more interesting was once I got up to speed, I realized I forgot to bolt my seat down. Of course I left the tools and the bolts at home. Made for an interesting ride.
What jets are you running?
I had similar prob. , turned out the jets were too big.
I am now back to OEM jet sizes and top speed so far has been 95.
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:12 AM   #40987
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
This is normal with the higher lift cam and the stiffer valve springs.
The cam has more ramp angle than the stock oem sowing machine one
It will lighten up once the cam and rockers are broken in.
The specs for the valve clearance are .004 int.....004 ex.......
That snapping sound you hear is the auto-comp, with the heavy valve springs it makes the noise more distinct then with the lighter springs.
If you want the sowing machine sound I will have to grind you a different cam, you can send it back to me and I will exchange it for you with a cam with slower ramp angles.
Sowing mach.? Is that a female pig cam?
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:15 AM   #40988
cyclewizard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barron View Post
I've got the scorpions on mine and they are great, they grip really well and ride smooth. I have only done about 8 or 9 hundred miles on them though so I can't tell you from experience how long they live...

-Barron
Had to put a new sleeve and piston in your motor, I also found that the crank seal was pinched and the o-ring were missing, it may have fallen off when you put the side case on. When you install the side case make sure that you put it on straight so that the crank seal does not encounter any damage, also put some grease on the oil pump o-ring to make sure that it stays in place and does not fall off.
I do believe you also had an air leak at the intake, you will need to add some sealer to the manifold with the ported head to insure that you have a complete seal......

Your ring end gap were butted together, did you check the clearance? and did you install the rings with the markings up? The ring that was on the slug there were no gap..
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:17 AM   #40989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Sowing mach.? Is that a female pig cam?

........sew........I'm a dunce..........
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:23 AM   #40990
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
........sew........I'm a dunce..........
;-)
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:49 AM   #40991
malignity
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Being that I'm used to 2 smokes, I'm still a little confused on the fuel mixture screw and idle screw. Obviously, I know how the idle screw works since I can visually see it 'turn' the throttle up, but how does the fuel mixture screw work exactly? I know turning the screw out will make the mixture richer, but is this throughout the entire throttle twist that the mixture becomes richer, or just at idle? I'd like to richen my mixture a tiny bit, but I really don't want to rejet, being that I just put my carb back in.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:02 AM   #40992
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Hey Barron and 103,

I ran the Pirreli Scoprion Trails on my Buell Ullysses and generally got over 7k miles out of the rear. With less weight, torque, and general abuse Buells require you give rear tires, you may get over 10k on the Pig.

I still remember being completly flabbergasted when I burned up a Dunlop D207 in 2k miles on my 00 X1 Lightning.
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:16 AM   #40993
Barron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
Had to put a new sleeve and piston in your motor, I also found that the crank seal was pinched and the o-ring were missing, it may have fallen off when you put the side case on. When you install the side case make sure that you put it on straight so that the crank seal does not encounter any damage, also put some grease on the oil pump o-ring to make sure that it stays in place and does not fall off.
I do believe you also had an air leak at the intake, you will need to add some sealer to the manifold with the ported head to insure that you have a complete seal......

Your ring end gap were butted together, did you check the clearance? and did you install the rings with the markings up? The ring that was on the slug there were no gap..
Well shit. Yeah I saw that piston ring stuck in there... I checked the clearance a few times... I was kinda bored and I had never done it before so I made sure it was good, but it was definitely stuck when I pulled the piston out, the first time I looked at it I thought both rings were moving but was just the one. To check the clearance I put it in the cylinder and used the piston to push it down an inch or so then used a feeler gauge to check it, and I remember thinking it was dead center for the tolerance. I made sure the markings were up too.

That blows about the o ring, I put some assembly lube on that damn thing to keep it in place too. I'll check the intake, and make sure it's good to go. Is high temp silicone good for that or should I use something else?

-Barron
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:30 AM   #40994
kenny61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malignity View Post
Being that I'm used to 2 smokes, I'm still a little confused on the fuel mixture screw and idle screw. Obviously, I know how the idle screw works since I can visually see it 'turn' the throttle up, but how does the fuel mixture screw work exactly? I know turning the screw out will make the mixture richer, but is this throughout the entire throttle twist that the mixture becomes richer, or just at idle? I'd like to richen my mixture a tiny bit, but I really don't want to rejet, being that I just put my carb back in.

idle screw adjust idle rpm only, fuel screw adjust the mixture at idle and a little open
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The only thing that comes to those who wait is old age
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:46 AM   #40995
mcma111
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Engine Failure

Last year an ADV'r that lives across the bay contacted me about his engine that had blown. Upon tear down it was determined that a valve seat had come apart. The piston and head were damaged. I took the cylinder and head to my machinist, Mike at Engine Dynamics and he told me that the head had multiple cracks. Five to be exact. It could have been repaired but it was cost prohibitive. I had a head that I sold my customer and a JE 102mm piston was installed.

Fast forward eight months and I get an email from my customer. He has blown the engine, again. He brings it over to my place and starts the engine. Big cloud of oil smoke and it sounds like a bucket of bolts. Amazing that it even started.

This tear down reveals the JE piston had been EXTREMELY overheated. So much so that the top or crown of the forged piston right below the spark plug had gotton so hot that it actually warped downward by over 1/8" and about 1" in diameter. The cylinder MAY be able to be bored to a Wiseco 102.4 piston but this is yet to be determined.

I told this fella that since his commute has gotten longer that he might consider a multiple cylinder bike. He is pondering what to do with the repairs. Yes the carb has been jetted and an oil cooler fitted.
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BMW's
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91 R100gs

87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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