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Old 09-06-2012, 04:21 PM   #46156
Ben99r1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
After adding a real inline filter I haven't had to pull random crap out of the jets in about a decade...
What filter are you using or would recommend?
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:28 PM   #46157
Mossy-Back
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Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
After adding a real inline filter I haven't had to pull random crap out of the jets in about a decade...
I added an inline filter to mine when I had the carb off this past week. Picked one up for $3 at the local honda dealer.
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Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:57 PM   #46158
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I used a small metal-case filter from the auto-parts store, they had one with small enough nipples.
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:01 PM   #46159
mcma111
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58 R26
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:03 PM   #46160
mcma111
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BMW's
58 R26
79 R100s
91 R100gs

87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 09-06-2012, 07:45 PM   #46161
JT
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Originally Posted by Ben99r1 View Post
Guys. Steve was right on the money. I pulled the main jet out and I could see a pebble stuck in the jet. I sprayed and blew air in the jets. While i was at it cleaned the carb ports and body. I put it back together and it started on the first push of the button. Any of you guys running a inline fuel filter?

Fram G-2, $3.00 at Wally-world, 34,000 miles and never had a fuel problem

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Old 09-06-2012, 09:02 PM   #46162
bomber1965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bomber1965
I get full lock to lock turn of the handle bars, you do have to move up to one bolt hole on the directional mounts to gain this.
.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cumbacheech View Post
Bomber,

you got a pic showing what you mean? I would like to move my tank back just a bit...

Cheers,

Cumbacheech



I'm referring to the 90 degree metal mounting tab on the end of the front directionals. unbolt the two bolts and move tab up to just using one bolt hole to allow the handle bars to turn full lock without the directionals hitting the 5.8 tank.

bomber1965 screwed with this post 09-08-2012 at 08:17 AM
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:10 PM   #46163
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Originally Posted by donnyh View Post
Hi guys, I have a question about trailering my 650L, I have never done it before.

How much do I want to compress the suspension when tying it down?

If it matters: It's on a hitch mounted carrier and my truck (92 Dodge Cummins 4x4) has an extremely stiff ride, and I'm going 700 miles.

slack happens....use these at both ends of the tie down sewn loop.


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Old 09-06-2012, 09:23 PM   #46164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Last year I sent CW a XR600 cylinder and head. I wanted a JE 102mm 10.5cr piston and for the head the works. Big fins, port 'n polish, springs w/ TI keepers and a valve job. The reason I am using the XR600 cylinder is because it doesn't have the smog porting or the smog pump mounts on the side of the cylinder. It's just a bit cleaner. The XR600 head is also no smog ports and just because I had it. Turns out that with the XR600 head (97mm bore) it actually works better.

I get the parts back along with his 628 cam and rockers and the parts sit on the shelf. I was to dam lazy to disassemble my perfectly good running engine to install the new stuff. Time marches on.

A couple of months ago CW contacts me and has me measure the clearance between the JE piston and the top of the cylinder. I have a spare engine and I mock it up and tell him the measurement. To much clearance. He wants the piston and cylinder back so he can mill down the cylinder to get less clearance. Less clearance = more POP. While this is going on he comes out with the combustion chamber magic. Off goes the finished head to get the TREATMENT.

A couple weeks ago I send him a crank assembly so he can do one of his rods and balance job.

The other day he posts up that he will be sending me BORED CASES, BIG PISTON and a LONG ROD CRANK and a BIG LUMP STICK. I called him a couple of times this week and finally got ahold of him this afternoon. He said I needed to go big. He was gonna bore a set of cases and send them to me. Our conversation resulted in me now having me send him my cases so the #'s match. He also has a new big lump stick (cam) that I get to try out.

Never kissed a man before but CW get's one on which ever cheek he wish's.
I just sent my cylinder off so I can get my cylinder decked to get the squish down to .050" or below. I can't wait to try out the new cam and CWCC. I think we'll have nearly identical set-ups Steve, but different carbs. We're gonna have to get together now for a comparo. Remeber I've got a sweet cabin you can stay in and you'll be 20 minutes from the Mendo Nat Forest.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:24 PM   #46165
mendoteach
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Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
I used a small metal-case filter from the auto-parts store, they had one with small enough nipples.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:16 PM   #46166
donnyh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bomber1965 View Post
slack happens....use these at both ends of the tie down sewn loop.
Oh yeah, I used quick links all around, and nylon straps on the bike looped through the eyelet on the tie downs, I used four new tie downs (not from Harbor Freight) and I have 2 2" tie downs helping support the weight of the carrier, the front tire has a steel bar from the carrier through it and the rear tire is tied with stout rope.

I'm skilled at rigging and securing loads, it's motorcycle suspension that I don't know much about, and I have a lot invested in my shock and forks, I sent them to Rob Barnum to be re-valved and re-sprung.

I'll get a fork brace on the way out of town tomorrow, Rocky Mountain ATV is just 10 miles or so from here.
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Old 09-07-2012, 02:24 AM   #46167
KyoXR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike View Post
I been using the brace between the tire and fender for many years.There where times when I would leave the bikes in the truck for days at a time. Since I have them for that I tend to use them all the time. I doubt if I would blow a seal but I did not see how compressing the springs for a long period of time would do them any good. Even with good seals, forks will pump up and the air pressure needs to be released for the forks to preform properly. Especially if one pumps up more than the other. I thought it was possible for it to work the other way as well creating a vacuum if air leaked from the forks being compressed for a long period of time. I don't even like storing the bikes on the suspension. I keep them on a stand with little or no weight on the suspension. I don't know if it really makes any difference, just something I started doing in the 70s after reading an article in DB Magazine

It is not a bad idea to get the weight off the forks and use the bleeders. I have noticed that the bike tends to steer to one side when the air is not balanced equally in the forks.

Mike
+1
I had several old bikes growing up and one of my pet peeves was all that damn sag in the suspension and the shocks were always on it's max spring setting when I got them, so when I was finally able to buy a brand new bike I always unweighted it while parked because I was determined to never let my new bike get that sag, now I'm glad I did.
I ended up getting a '85 350X and once again it had huge sag in the suspension, I went to un-weighting the bike right away and ended up having it sit for a few weeks as I gathered new parts for fixing it up, a friend stopped by and I went to show him all the sag it had and about 60% of the sag disappeared...I worked the suspension several times and checked the sag again, still good,
now I know as the science goes that these springs wont bounce back to stock height If I keep doing this because of metal fatigue but If it last throughout the ride then mission accomplished.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
I don't use these filters, they seem to let the fine crud go through.
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KyoXR screwed with this post 09-07-2012 at 12:20 PM
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Old 09-07-2012, 03:04 AM   #46168
rmhrc628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wattner View Post
Wow... Been away from the thread a few days and a lot of action to catch up on!

CW, as usual thanks for the explanation of components and your "Wizardry" fixes. I spent some time sorting out some jetting woes. I have the CW 742 motor with a KeiHin FCR 41. I had installed a 168 main and 46 pilot jets with the clip raised one notch above center and the bike went flat above 1/2 throttle....
I dropped the clip to the center notch, replaced the 168 with a 165 (got a little better...) then swapped to a 160 and man did it crisp things up!!!! I think ultimately I'll end up with a 158 and the 60 pilot.

I also ordered an R&D PowerPump II, adjustable leak jet bowl for ease of adjusting the accelerator pump. http://www.r1dean.com/cart/index.php...products_id=60

Hopefully everything will be here this week so it can be installed and tuned over the weekend... I'll report the final jetting.

Steve.... I had one of the Sycle batteries that could not hack the motor requirements for more than a few starts after a charge, tried a stock battery, then an AGM with no luck, and ended up with:http://www.batteriesplus.com/product...3-to-2010.aspx from Batteriesplus with a two year warranty, and it cranks the big girl very well.

I see that you ordered the Shorai, I'll be interested to see if it will crank the big motors....Please report!

The riding season in the East is prime and I am hoping to get up to the mountains soon to get some riding in... It's a shame to have such a great bike sitting in storage!

Has anyone tried a Giantloop Coyote bag on their "L"? I have the Mojave and it's great for small day trips, but a slightly larger option would be nice for overnight runs, but I don't want it to be too big or cumbersome. I like the simplistic design and don't want and racks bolted on.

I'm also interested in the Kriega system as well on the "L" if there is any experience with that, please share

Thanks for any input!

Hey Wattner

It's a real privilege to post about stuff I might be able to help you with since I converted my 600r to hrc628 power then added the Ls electric start...plus some other bits like battery under the seat and a FCRMX41mm back in 2006.

Recently I added a shorai ( switched out the yuasa) to my under the seat position and I can say its an excellent battery. It spins my high comp motor very very easily(clearly a lower output motor compared to your monster motors). For various reasons ( I run a xr600 cdi) the bike doesn't light on the button.

Have you seen the thread on TT whereby you run 2 (yes2!!!) super b batteries and run the system on 24volts? I've spoken to my electrics guy here in Australia and he thinks its a goer. I'll post up when done. The reason my bike doesn't light on thr button is due to not enough revolutions to trigger the CDI. (as you probably know the XR cdi is an AC 60-90volts starting cdi)

Jetting these things is really weird. I too started with a 170 then ended up at 140 or so. I might go back to a 160.

I'm running a 42 or 40 pilot.

I've gotta a giant loop coyote. It works really well but recently I was reading a thread in ride reports about 2 husabergs doing the window trail and one of the guys had a wolf man kit that was awesome. It's more modular than the gl stuff.

So wolfman is what I'm getting next.

Cheers

Rob
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:03 AM   #46169
Wattner
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Originally Posted by cyclewizard View Post
Hey son you probably should try dropping the clip another slot and see what happens, and advance the cam timing for more topend pull.
When I send you the new wcc head I'll send a slotted cam gear for you, all you will have to do is turn the cam forward until it bottoms out on the new slots and you will be set to go....no degreeing on your part..
WoohOOOO.... Just saw this, sorry that I'm late to the party! Will do! I'll drop the clip one more notch and play with the 158.

I am simply amazed that all of the years I have been riding the "L"s that there was this much potential hidden under the hood!

I anxiously await the new head, bumpstick with no auto decompression and slotted cam gear..... Wow, just wow. I'm like a kid waiting for christmas!!!!

Thanks Dad
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:10 AM   #46170
Wattner
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Originally Posted by rmhrc628 View Post
Hey Wattner

It's a real privilege to post about stuff I might be able to help you with since I converted my 600r to hrc628 power then added the Ls electric start...plus some other bits like battery under the seat and a FCRMX41mm back in 2006.

Recently I added a shorai ( switched out the yuasa) to my under the seat position and I can say its an excellent battery. It spins my high comp motor very very easily(clearly a lower output motor compared to your monster motors). For various reasons ( I run a xr600 cdi) the bike doesn't light on the button.

Have you seen the thread on TT whereby you run 2 (yes2!!!) super b batteries and run the system on 24volts? I've spoken to my electrics guy here in Australia and he thinks its a goer. I'll post up when done. The reason my bike doesn't light on thr button is due to not enough revolutions to trigger the CDI. (as you probably know the XR cdi is an AC 60-90volts starting cdi)

Jetting these things is really weird. I too started with a 170 then ended up at 140 or so. I might go back to a 160.

I'm running a 42 or 40 pilot.

I've gotta a giant loop coyote. It works really well but recently I was reading a thread in ride reports about 2 husabergs doing the window trail and one of the guys had a wolf man kit that was awesome. It's more modular than the gl stuff.

So wolfman is what I'm getting next.

Cheers

Rob
Thanks Rob!!!!! I too am of the mindset that the battery in the stock position is just fine. I wish that when my battery died I could of found the shorai, but I was relegated to the Batteries Plus offering and it has worked great so far.

I did see the twin 12v system for the starter and man what a great idea! I hope to add that soon, but with my limited time to ride as it is, the mod may take awhile as long as what I have is working ok.

I LOVE all of the Wolfman stuff as well and have looked at their stuff and the Kriega briefly. Another one I looked at is the Nomad Rider that seems like the best value, just not sure of the quality. I have a NR tank bag for my BMW and it seems ok.

Thanks for the response!!!! Gotta run!

Cheers,

Mike
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