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[my6]

Originally Posted by Barron

Hey MY6 and absoluteclint,

When you are only getting your running light to light but no brake light have you tried hooking up the brake light wire to the running light to see if it will light?

You could have the ground confused with one of the power wires, it's odd how things will "kinda" work on these bikes. If you guys pm me your email addresses I'll send you a good wiring diagram. FWIW, you could take two pieces of wire and run them from the plug in the middle of the bike to test the lights individually to figure out if there is an issue with the wiring between the plug and the light- That's how I fixed mine.

-Barron

PM Sent

[beechum1]

Originally Posted by taco250

There is one out there but whoever sends it to you might get banned for a few days (or weeks) for copywrite issues.

Wiring diagram is PD. if it hasn't been linked by the time I get to the hotel ill set it up.

[absoluteclint]

Originally Posted by Barron

Hey MY6 and absoluteclint,

When you are only getting your running light to light but no brake light have you tried hooking up the brake light wire to the running light to see if it will light?

You could have the ground confused with one of the power wires, it's odd how things will "kinda" work on these bikes. If you guys pm me your email addresses I'll send you a good wiring diagram. FWIW, you could take two pieces of wire and run them from the plug in the middle of the bike to test the lights individually to figure out if there is an issue with the wiring between the plug and the light- That's how I fixed mine.

-Barron

Thanks Barron and Steve... Good advice. I'm going to tackle this wiring piece later in the week... I'll let you know how it goes. I should take a picture of the mess I have to work with... Looks like a little bird nest of wiring and electrical tape coming out of the battery box! Guess there's no better way to learn than just diving on in there (that's what she said)!

Barron... I'm sending you my email address... PM sent... Thanks

[my6]

Ok, Test=switched the wires and both filaments will light separately. The lights solid black wire should go to the bikes green which is ground. The lights Red should go to bikes brown and the lights black/white should go to bikes green/yellow..right?

[absoluteclint]

Originally Posted by my6

Ok, Test=switched the wires and both filaments will light separately. The lights solid black wire should go to the bikes green which is ground. The lights Red should go to bikes brown and the lights black/white should go to bikes green/yellow..right?

Awesome! Thanks my6! I'm sure that information will save me a good chunk of time in a few days!

[XR BADGER]

Hello XR room! First I would like to say, WOW, this forum/thread is amazing. I have literally been reading for about 12 days , unable to put this information stream down, in a futile attempt to get caught up with this saturation of wisdom. The amount of information here and practical experience is, well, as they say in an ad, PRICELESS! Anywho... I am a long time rider, mx back in the day and mostly street for the last years, and am now in the possession an 07 XR650L bone stock with 385 miles. Be gentle, my first dual sport., (Smilies, how fun) I have assimilated, ingested, osmoticly ( it could be a word) as much information as my inferior human pyramidal cells can electrically handle, and I am still nowhere near the omnipotent individuals who post /hand down their pearls of wisdom from the mountain. So I humbly put forth my first, of many ignorant, and surely previously answered (somewhere in the depths of the thread) questions into the cistern of collective knowledge. Whew..if I remove the smog equipment only,with XR'S only smog eradication device, will I need to re-jet my new pig, who has yet to be named? She and I are currently residing at base camp 1 roughly 500 feet above sea level in the Southern California portion of the world. Thanks again for ability to reach out to the sea of knowledge that resides here and post such trivial and humble question for the collective to deem as it sees fit. Hope to get a chance in this timeline to meet some of you on the planet for a beverage and some ADV time

[mcma111]

Badger

Do the de-smog but leave the oil separator. Buy a 55 pilot and a 158 main.

Here ya go:


http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/xrlsmog/


http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/xr650lcarbmods/

[ReferJohn]

Originally Posted by mcma111

Do the de-smog but leave the oil separator.

Steve, what if my used "L" did not have the oil seperator...
what could happen, and what should i look out for.
Thanks
John

BTW Welcome to the asylum BADGER

[mendoteach]

Originally Posted by absoluteclint

Thanks Barron and Steve... Good advice. I'm going to tackle this wiring piece later in the week... I'll let you know how it goes. I should take a picture of the mess I have to work with... Looks like a little bird nest of wiring and electrical tape coming out of the battery box! Guess there's no better way to learn than just diving on in there (that's what she said)!

Barron... I'm sending you my email address... PM sent... Thanks

Steve is correct. It's wired incorrectly. Very easy fix.

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

If you ride your XR650L at high rpms for extended periods of time, especially during hot weather, you should be concerned about oil temperature. Your concern should increase if you have installed an aftermarket fuel tank, or ditched the stock air scoops.

A fellow inmate loaned me an XRs Only, dipstick thermometer; I don't think they are very acccurate, or very easy to read. Also, the lens fogs up, and these thermometers occasionally leak oil. For less than $20, I suggest you make a digital thermometer so you can monitor the bike's oil temperature.

I purchased an aluminum, oil cap bolt on eBay from the following vendor; it was $12.95, delivered.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-FILL-CAP...sories&vxp=mtr

After drilling a hole through the aluminum bolt, I inserted a Harbor Freight, digital thermometer.



This dipstick thermometer is very accurate, and it does not leak oil. It costs less than $20, and is very easy to fabricate. In addition, it is very easy to read. If this digital thermometer ever fails, you can easily find an inexpensive replacement at any Harbor Freight store. I fabricated this thermometer to compare oil temperatures between the oil reservoir and the temperature probe location for my TTO Temperature Gauge.



The Harbor Freight digital thermometer is frequently on sale, and accurately measures temperatures to one-tenth of a degree Fahrenheit.

Spud

Originally Posted by XR650L

Spud

Why the diff in temps, I get that as well

Regards

I took that photograph several minutes after the engine had stopped running. The temperature probe for my TTO Temperature Gauge is located in the external oil line exiting the engine, just before it enters my oil cooler. After I stop the engine, my oil cooler continues to radiate heat faster than the oil reservoir. Therefore, my TTO Temperature Gauge shows a lower oil temperature than the digital thermometer inserted in the oil reservoir.

Spud

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by ReferJohn

Steve, what if my used "L" did not have the oil seperator...
what could happen, and what should i look out for.
Thanks
John

BTW Welcome to the asylum BADGER

You'd have a bike like mine The PO got rid of the separator as part of the smog gear. Same douchebag that welded the countersprocket on the shaft

[mendoteach]

Originally Posted by ReferJohn

Steve, what if my used "L" did not have the oil seperator...
what could happen, and what should i look out for.
Thanks
John

BTW Welcome to the asylum BADGER

Steve and others may disagree with me, but the oIl catch can doesn't serve any great purpose. I actually installed one in each of my last two turbo charged cars (not factory supplied) because oil would get pulled into the intake tract pre intercooler, reducing its efficiency as the intercooler would get coated with oil. If you run a stock paper filter than yes, I can see the need. Otherwise, the amount coming into the air box is like a mild auto air filter oiler.

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by Redclayrider

My standard response to any oil thread. Use Baby Seal Oil.

It is the tears of their mothers that makes it soooo sweet.

Previously, I exclusively used Easter Timber Rattlesnake Oil, harvested only from serpents employed during religious snake-handling ceremonies in Appalachia. When harvested from the free range, crotalus horridus produces unsurpassed base oil stocks. These excellent base stocks are further, miraculously enhanced during the religious ceremonies.



Don't use just any snake oil! Use Eastern Timber Rattlesnake Oil!

Unfortunately, the cost of collecting, handling, and harvesting these serpents has became prohibitive, so I switched to 15W/40 motor oil. The commercial, diesel motor oil is doing an excellent job for me, so I intend to keep using it.

Spud

[mcma111]

Without the separator the oil mist from the engine case will accumulate in the air box and eventually make a mess and drain out onto the floor/ground. I leave mine on because Mr HONDA designed it that way.

So some smuck comes along and calls it a charcoal canister (previous de-smog threads) and everyone thinks the bike will run better without it. Go figure. It's just doing it's job.

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by Ulyses

I just put the no-toil oil on my air filter.....damn! That stuff's a mess. I should have got out some latex gloves, because I think I used about three ounces of the cleaner just to get it off my hands. Plus, I have to wait 30 minutes for this stuff to set up before I can slap it back on?! I'm too impatient for this stuff! Haha!

Does no-toil give you a substantial performance boost? What's the draw? I'm thinking of just ditching this stuff and picking up a petroleum based filter oil down here.

Originally Posted by Ulyses

Also, a big thanks to Spud for explaining the more salient points on No-Toil. I was able to find the green stuff at the same shop where I bought my oil!

...

I don't wear gloves when oiling my air filters. Cleaning the No-Toil filter oil from you hands is very easy when you use the proper technique. First, lather you hands with regular soap and water. Then sprinkle a very small amount of the No-Toil Cleaner/Oxi-Clean onto your hands. Rub the Oxi-Clean into your hands until it starts to dissolve, then rinse your hands clean.

I prefer No-Toil Evolution Filter Oil over petroleum based filter oils for the following reasons.

1) Cleaning the No-Toil filter oil is very quick and easy. Make a solution consisting of 2 ounces of No-Toil Cleaner/Oxi-Clean in a gallon of warm water, and agitate the air filter in the solution. In two minutes the air filter is completely clean, and so are you hands. If you wish, you can clean your air filters in the kitchen sink.

2) Cleaning the No-Toil filter oil is also non-toxic. You don't need to use any harsh solvents, and you can pour the dirty water down the sink, commode, bathtub, or pour it out on the ground.

3) Cleaning the No-Toil filter oil is also inexpensive. If you use Oxi-Clean/sodium percarbonate, you can clean your air filter for 16 cents, or less.

4) Oiling an air filter with No-Toil Evolution is much easier than oiling an air filter with a petroleum filter oil. The water based, Evolution filter oil quickly distributes into the foam, and the excess oil is easily squeezed out of the filter, with very little waste. You can oil your air filter in your motel room, and you can easily clean your hands using the technique I stated above, without any need for smelly, harsh, inflammable solvents.

5) The No-Toil filter oil is very tacky, and stops all the dirt. However, No-Toil is less "goopy" than petroleum filter oils. Therefore, I get better air flow through my Uni air filters since I switched to No-Toil Evolution Filter Oil.

6) Since oiling the air filters, cleaning your hands, and cleaning the air filters is so easy, convenient, and inexpensive, I no longer dread the job. Therefore, I clean my air filters more frequently, and my engine performs better because of it.

However, be forewarned, the water based, Evolution filter oil takes longer to dry than the red, No-Toil filter oil. Alcohol evaporates much faster than water, so you need to wait longer for the Evolution filter oil to become tacky.

Spud