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Old 11-25-2012, 04:48 PM   #49336
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super samurai View Post
So, got to test out my heated grips today. Worked killer on the way out, about a 18 mile ride. Rode around the woods all day and went to ride home and noticed one wire had come off the throttle grip. Dang i said.
So one hand was warm and the other was cold. They do work great when they do work.
Guess i should be able to solder it back?
I don't know if you can repair the wire, but it certainly doesn't hurt to try. The wires won't fail if you follow the tips in the PDF file which is located at the product's web page.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/do...0Throttles.pdf



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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil

Spud Rider screwed with this post 11-25-2012 at 07:19 PM
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:53 PM   #49337
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Just to clarify, that will disable the side-stand safety also?
Yes, shorting the two wires at the clutch perch to ground will disable all the safety switches.



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Spud Rider screwed with this post 11-25-2012 at 07:39 PM
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:54 PM   #49338
taco250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
To disable all safeties at the clutch switch, connect the 2 wires together and ground them.
So connect them together and run a ground wire from the joined wires to a ground? Got a pic 'cuz wiring diagrams are greek to me?
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:59 PM   #49339
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super samurai View Post
So, got to test out my heated grips today. Worked killer on the way out, about a 18 mile ride. Rode around the woods all day and went to ride home and noticed one wire had come off the throttle grip. Dang i said.
So one hand was warm and the other was cold. They do work great when they do work.
Guess i should be able to solder it back?

I bet you can solder them back on. I seem to remember reading where someone on another site had resoldered one.
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Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:04 PM   #49340
AZ TOM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
The two wires that come out of the turn signal/horn button part there?

Just splice together and both the clutch and kick-stand safeties are disabled?
Separate switch at the kick stand.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:19 PM   #49341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Yes, shorting the two wires at the clutch perch will disable all the safety switches.



Spud
Thanks Spud. Is there a place where you can access those wires under the seat to the ground there, so you don't have to run a long wire from the handlebars?

Quote:
Originally Posted by taco250 View Post
So connect them together and run a ground wire from the joined wires to a ground? Got a pic 'cuz wiring diagrams are greek to me?
Yeah, a picture would be nice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ TOM View Post
Separate switch at the kick stand.
Okay... now I'm confused. So there's a separate switch at the kick-stand, but by grounding the two wires at the clutch it disables both the clutch switch AND the kick-stand switch?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:31 PM   #49342
Walterxr650l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
T




Okay... now I'm confused. So there's a separate switch at the kick-stand, but by grounding the two wires at the clutch it disables both the clutch switch AND the kick-stand switch?

If you notice on the schematic. There is a dot below the box mark CDI, labeled must be grounded to run. Also the is a dot below the box labeled Starter solenoid, it is labeled must be grounded to crank. The two sides of the clutch switch go to these two points. So if you connect them and then connect them to ground, you have grounded both the CDI and the starter solenoid. Thus the starter will crank and the engine can run. Therefore you have bypassed all the safeties.

Walter
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:35 PM   #49343
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Thanks Spud. Is there a place where you can access those wires under the seat to the ground there, so you don't have to run a long wire from the handlebars?...

...Okay... now I'm confused. So there's a separate switch at the kick-stand, but by grounding the two wires at the clutch it disables both the clutch switch AND the kick-stand switch?
Yes, connect both clutch switch terminals to ground. If you don't want to run a long ground wire to connect to the frame under the saddle, you can run a short ground wire to any of the bolts which compress the triple tree to hold the forks.

Spud
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:48 PM   #49344
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Yes, connect both clutch switch terminals to ground. If you don't want to run a long ground wire to connect to the frame under the saddle, you can run a short ground wire to any of the bolts which compress the triple tree to hold the forks.

Spud
I will likely tap into any of the green wires up on the nose end of the piggie. They all go to ground. No need running a separate wire.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:59 PM   #49345
Mossy-Back
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterxr650l View Post
If you notice on the schematic. There is a dot below the box mark CDI, labeled must be grounded to run. Also the is a dot below the box labeled Starter solenoid, it is labeled must be grounded to crank. The two sides of the clutch switch go to these two points. So if you connect them and then connect them to ground, you have grounded both the CDI and the starter solenoid. Thus the starter will crank and the engine can run. Therefore you have bypassed all the safeties.

Walter
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Yes, connect both clutch switch terminals to ground. If you don't want to run a long ground wire to connect to the frame under the saddle, you can run a short ground wire to any of the bolts which compress the triple tree to hold the forks.

Spud
Thanks for the advice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
I will likely tap into any of the green wires up on the nose end of the piggie. They all go to ground. No need running a separate wire.
That sounds like a good way to do it to me. That'll give me a small project to work on this week sometime.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:07 PM   #49346
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bomber1965 screwed with this post 11-25-2012 at 08:15 PM
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:21 PM   #49347
flatfender
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Post a Pic

Hey fellas. There's been lots of great bikes and pictures and videos posted here I thought I'd post a few recent pics too.

This shows where I replaced my GPS with an analog tach. It's there mostly to help me from lugging the engine in 4th and 5th gear which is bad.



Here's another one where I'm mocking up some side skid frame stiffeners. Grid ceiling tie wire and masking tape work good for getting a visual on design. This is to protect the side and to strengthen the frame for a future rear rack.



And one from the front



I've done a lot to this bike in the last four years, everything about it I like. As long as I don't have to push it up a muddy hill with the back wheel spinning or pick it up all day I'd say it was a good day of riding!
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:28 PM   #49348
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I love that front end flatfender, especially the Buell headlight set up. How did you mount them?
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:38 PM   #49349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatfender View Post

This shows where I replaced my GPS with an analog tach. It's there mostly to help me from lugging the engine in 4th and 5th gear which is bad.
Sweet bike!

I'd love to have a tach on my XR. Please give us some details about your setup... where you got the tach from, the model of the tach, how you wired it, etc.


Those headlights make me miss my Buell.
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:10 PM   #49350
flatfender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drunk_Uncle View Post
I love that front end flatfender, especially the Buell headlight set up. How did you mount them?
I used flat steel from Lowe's. Mounting them is fairly easy it's after that the difficult part begins on how to cover them and get a lttle wind protection without a trace of buffeting. Here's the beginning of the mount, I still needed to weld tabs for the top and cut a slot in the bottom bracket for adjusting the aim.



Here's what not to do, everyone of these attempts at a windscreen caused some amount of buffeting. The plain screen and lights (last photo)were best but still after a half hour at 65 it started to wear me down.







This one here definetely worked the best for overall wind protection, and the nasa-duct hole I put in it worked very well for short trips or slower speeds but the little pitter-patter of buffeting seemed to grow and groe the longer I rode.

Then one afternoon I wiped out and broke this new tinted replacement windscreen and rivoted the top unbroken portion to the headlight mask and found this setup works great. Plenty of fresh air for venting and no direct blst on my chest.

As for the lights themselves, they are a major improvement. Especially since I wired the high beam switch to keep the low beams on too. I used to have HID bulbs in there but the longer HID bulbs scattered the beam pattern. The stock bulbs are very good in everything but hard rain wet roads, then the HID's were far and away superior.
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