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Old 12-12-2012, 04:58 PM   #49981
mcma111
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From the AMA web site:

Another mark to look for when mounting a tire is a painted balance dot, or dots. Most tires are pre-balanced by the manufacturer. They will then put a mark on the tire indicating where the valve stem should line up.



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Old 12-12-2012, 05:12 PM   #49982
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Laugh Just installed my RSW fork brace....oh yeah

I just installed my RSW fork brace that I picked up locally for 50 bucks........I haven't got to ride with it yet, but just trying to twist the forks/wheel now, its MUCH stiffer...feels solid like a rock, much closer to the trick USD's on my 84 XR500R. And I could also feel the diff sitting on the bike and turning the front end. I can see this mod making a BIG diff in the handling
First rides gonna be fun
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:23 PM   #49983
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Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
I don't have a clue.

There ya go fritz, I fixed that up for ya
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:09 PM   #49984
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Originally Posted by Redclayrider View Post
Well maybe Ebay can help. Do ya know what will? What years?

BTW on the tires, if you look on the inside you can spot the splice on the inside on most tires. The heavy spot is at the splice.

I don't sleep the entire time at the tire plant.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-Honda-C...sories&vxp=mtr

If I remember right it seems like this was all I needed. The old cr caliper came with my forks.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:41 PM   #49985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
From the AMA web site:

Another mark to look for when mounting a tire is a painted balance dot, or dots. Most tires are pre-balanced by the manufacturer. They will then put a mark on the tire indicating where the valve stem should line up.




So now we have an answer and a dead cow....

Killer!!!

Try this answer out for size...

The RED dot indicates the point of maximum force-variation (the highest point of the tire); it should be aligned with the point on the wheel that's physically lowest.Usually, wheel manufacturers will drill the valve-stem hole at the lowest point on the wheel, so you should align the red dot with the valve stem.


The YELLOW dot indicates the lightest part of the tire, also known as "maximum force variation." This should be lined up with the heaviest part of the wheel - typically, but not always, the valve stem. They call this "phase aligning" the tire.



If you have a beadlock it goes on however it lines up but putting the YELLOW dot across from it is the best way. It will still be way off balance and have a high maximum force-variation no matter how it's mounted.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
OK, So it's a Harley but it's what I found

Normally, a shop that knows what they are doing will mount the red dot aligned with the valve stem.




Are you sure about that????


Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
I don't have a Clue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schultz! View Post
There ya go fritz, I fixed that up for ya
Yup.. Clueless...


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Old 12-12-2012, 06:57 PM   #49986
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Why the hell would they put a dot on a tire if it wasn`t lining up with the valve stem......


Another "beat down on Fritz" night eh

Cool.......carry on..



Have a Labatts Blue on me Fritz


B
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:09 PM   #49987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Clue, I don't have a rim lock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Why the hell would they put a dot on a tire if it wasn`t lining up with the valve stem......


Another "beat down on Fritz" night eh

Cool.......carry on..



Have a Labatts Blue on me Fritz


B

Hey Fritz, the next round is on me...

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Old 12-12-2012, 07:39 PM   #49988
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Do I need to pull the six torx bolts to pull the flywheel off? If it's not coming off, will that help?
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I used to say "one day" a lot. But then I got scared I would wait one day too long. So I am doing it all now
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:43 PM   #49989
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No, those hold the starter sprag clutch on, BUT when I yanked mine I pulled 2 of em out and used a automotive harmonic balancer puller with long bolts in those holes, if you dont have a puller handy head over to your local auto parts store that offers free tool rental and see if you can get a puller that might work. Or any bar style puller with long bolts will work as well. i should mention that that end of the crank is tapered and when the flywheel is installed it gets a "press fit" when the center bolt is torqued


This is the tool you are supposed to use

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flywheel-Pul...-/270750803547
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Schultz! screwed with this post 12-12-2012 at 07:51 PM
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:00 PM   #49990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schultz! View Post
No, those hold the starter sprag clutch on, BUT when I yanked mine I pulled 2 of em out and used a automotive harmonic balancer puller with long bolts in those holes, if you dont have a puller handy head over to your local auto parts store that offers free tool rental and see if you can get a puller that might work. Or any bar style puller with long bolts will work as well. i should mention that that end of the crank is tapered and when the flywheel is installed it gets a "press fit" when the center bolt is torqued


This is the tool you are supposed to use

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flywheel-Pul...-/270750803547
i have oneof those and another that i made. no movey so far
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I used to say "one day" a lot. But then I got scared I would wait one day too long. So I am doing it all now
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:09 PM   #49991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
i have oneof those and another that i made. no movey so far
Ahh ok sorry for the useless info then, what I would do is apply a good amount of torque to your puller so there is the residual outward force pressing the crank and flywheel apart then either heat the flywheel snout up with a propane torch while maintaining pressure on the puller OR if the heat is not a option use 2 hammers, place one agent the tapered snout of the flywheel and use the 2nd hammer to impact the 1st one your holding in place. This will minimize the mushrooming effect a single hammer blow can cause and will assist is the reliceing of the press fit. If your not happy with the idea of whacking a flywheel with a hammer then you can also sacrifice your flywheel puller and impact it instead. The inpacts should get the taper to pop if you keep the pressure from the puller applied
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:11 PM   #49992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
i have oneof those and another that i made. no movey so far
Did you try a quick blast of the rattle gun?
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:16 PM   #49993
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Here is Steves way of doing it I found in a different post.





http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560928


When I pull a stator on a Honda XR600 or XR650l and it doesn't want to come off I tighten the puller, heat the stator and whack the end of the puller that is under load and it pop's right off.

Heat, load of puller and a good Whack!
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:18 PM   #49994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
Do I need to pull the six torx bolts to pull the flywheel off? If it's not coming off, will that help?

If you attempt to pull your rotor with a puller your going to be looking for a replacement.

This is what you need.



The right tool for the job.
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:47 PM   #49995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schultz! View Post
Ahh ok sorry for the useless info then, what I would do is apply a good amount of torque to your puller so there is the residual outward force pressing the crank and flywheel apart then either heat the flywheel snout up with a propane torch while maintaining pressure on the puller OR if the heat is not a option use 2 hammers, place one agent the tapered snout of the flywheel and use the 2nd hammer to impact the 1st one your holding in place. This will minimize the mushrooming effect a single hammer blow can cause and will assist is the reliceing of the press fit. If your not happy with the idea of whacking a flywheel with a hammer then you can also sacrifice your flywheel puller and impact it instead. The inpacts should get the taper to pop if you keep the pressure from the puller applied
Say what???? . . . . Hit a hammer with a hammer??? . . .

What have you been smoking?

Wow I'm speechless...
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