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Old 12-12-2012, 07:59 PM   #49996
MentalGuru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
If you attempt to pull your rotor with a puller your going to be looking for a replacement.

This is what you need.



The right tool for the job.
Yup and you hit it with a hammer when it tightens down if needed. Grease the threads first. When used properly an impact works well IMO.

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Old 12-12-2012, 08:02 PM   #49997
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Happy 50,000 everyone...












MentalGuru screwed with this post 12-13-2012 at 06:16 AM Reason: add pics, wife was too close...
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:13 PM   #49998
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Originally Posted by MentalGuru View Post
Happy 50,000 everyone...

Did you post three times in a row just to make post number 50,000?

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:37 PM   #49999
Walterxr650l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
It must vary from manufacture to manfacture because I know Dunlop is heavy at the dot. They use orange.
Thanks Steve, I'll test at next tire change with the Metzler made tires and report.
Wrong

From Dunlop's web page
"All Dunlop street tires should be installed with the balance dot at the valve. Wheels may be balanced with spoke nipple weights, lead wire or self-adhesive rim weights. Consult the motorcycle manufacturer for approved wheel weights."

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Old 12-12-2012, 09:07 PM   #50000
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Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Aww man... now I have an itch to do the Shorai battery relocation on mine! Thanks a lot guys... I better be getting a winning lottery ticket for Christmas.
If you have a stock battery that isn't giving problems, why change. My bike is a 2006. I bought it in January of 2006. It has never been on a charger or battery tender, ever. Two winters ago I broke my bike in late September, didn't get it put back together again until the next 4th of July, the OEM battery started it right up, after sitting for 9 plus months. Last winter I had to split the cases to fix a shifting problem. Again the battery sat for several month, although not as many. It still started the bike. The battery is almost 7 years old now. The stock batteries are tough, why change?

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Old 12-12-2012, 09:14 PM   #50001
ThumpnRed
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Originally Posted by MentalGuru View Post
Say what???? . . . . Hit a hammer with a hammer??? . . .

What have you been smoking?

Wow I'm speechless...
What's wrong with banging hammers together? Sitting in the shop, drinking wobbly pops, banging hammers together... good times. I make it a point to run with scissors too whenever I get a chance. Safety glasses have no place in my workshop!
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Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:47 PM   #50002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterxr650l View Post
If you have a stock battery that isn't giving problems, why change. My bike is a 2006. I bought it in January of 2006. It has never been on a charger or battery tender, ever. Two winters ago I broke my bike in late September, didn't get it put back together again until the next 4th of July, the OEM battery started it right up, after sitting for 9 plus months. Last winter I had to split the cases to fix a shifting problem. Again the battery sat for several month, although not as many. It still started the bike. The battery is almost 7 years old now. The stock batteries are tough, why change?

Walter
About the only thing lead acid batteries really have going against them is weight. So...if you are trying to save,weight there's no easier way. Yes, Walter, they are very tough. Just don't let the sit uncharged for long periods and you're good.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:30 PM   #50003
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterxr650l View Post
If you have a stock battery that isn't giving problems, why change. My bike is a 2006. I bought it in January of 2006. It has never been on a charger or battery tender, ever. Two winters ago I broke my bike in late September, didn't get it put back together again until the next 4th of July, the OEM battery started it right up, after sitting for 9 plus months. Last winter I had to split the cases to fix a shifting problem. Again the battery sat for several month, although not as many. It still started the bike. The battery is almost 7 years old now. The stock batteries are tough, why change?

Walter
Yep the stock battery in my 04 lasted 8 years through the first 2 owners, and I don't think it got any special treatment. If it would have been kept on a tender I bet it would have made 11 years easy The stock batteries are VERY tough. I get 10+ years out of brand new quality batteries kept on a tender from day one. A tender will make a good battery last longer than you will most likely own the bike. Hell a 10+ year battery will outlast the engine on a lot of bikes
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:55 PM   #50004
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterxr650l View Post
If you have a stock battery that isn't giving problems, why change. My bike is a 2006. I bought it in January of 2006. It has never been on a charger or battery tender, ever. Two winters ago I broke my bike in late September, didn't get it put back together again until the next 4th of July, the OEM battery started it right up, after sitting for 9 plus months. Last winter I had to split the cases to fix a shifting problem. Again the battery sat for several month, although not as many. It still started the bike. The battery is almost 7 years old now. The stock batteries are tough, why change?

Walter
I agree; the stock batteries are tough. However, they're so heavy, you would think they were made out of lead!



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Old 12-13-2012, 02:17 AM   #50005
pngaudioguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I agree; the stock batteries are tough. However, they're so heavy, you would think they were made out of lead!
Spud
Isn't that what SLA means - "Sealed Lead Acid" battery? As in, containing lead and acid... Pretty sure they are made out of lead, Mr. Spud
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:08 AM   #50006
Spud Rider
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Originally Posted by pngaudioguy View Post
Isn't that what SLA means - "Sealed Lead Acid" battery? As in, containing lead and acid... Pretty sure they are made out of lead, Mr. Spud
Yes, I know. I was making a joke, AudioGuy.



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Old 12-13-2012, 04:53 AM   #50007
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temp gauge

Hey Spud (or anyone else) about a month or so ago you did a write up on replacing the dipstick with a cheaply constructed oil temperature gauge using a cheap Harbor Freight gauge and a nut from Ebay (I think?)... Do you happen to still have that information handy or know the page/thread number from where you posted that info? You still happy with this cheap mod?

I'm ready to do this mod. I recently de-winged my XRL and will be adding a larger tank at some point next year so I want to start monitoring the temp. After installing this gauge what temp is considered to be too hot?

I know the digital gauge provides a much more accurate reading but at this point I'm not ready to add any additional electronics.

Thanks!

absoluteclint screwed with this post 12-13-2012 at 05:03 AM
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:43 AM   #50008
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by absoluteclint View Post
Hey Spud (or anyone else) about a month or so ago you did a write up on replacing the dipstick with a cheaply constructed oil temperature gauge using a cheap Harbor Freight gauge and a nut from Ebay (I think?)... Do you happen to still have that information handy or know the page/thread number from where you posted that info? You still happy with this cheap mod?

I'm ready to do this mod. I recently de-winged my XRL and will be adding a larger tank at some point next year so I want to start monitoring the temp. After installing this gauge what temp is considered to be too hot?

I know the digital gauge provides a much more accurate reading but at this point I'm not ready to add any additional electronics.

Thanks!
This gage is availabe from an industrial hose supplier Sea Fast.Their part number PT1550. The stem length is 5". And this is quick and easy to make something close to what Spud did. Just drill a tight fitting hole for the stem in the OEM filler plug. When you get bored with the gage just pull it out and put a screw in the hole. The colored dots are reflective tape and were cut with a leather punch. They represent the normal temp. ranges I see here in Houston for my 96 XR. A good addition would be an LED light so you can monitor the gage at night.

Spud made a cool gage but the BEST I have ever seen was made by LexLeroy. But you need some metal lath time to copy his.

PS: more to follow on oil temps. soon. I've been testing ???????????





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fritzcoinc screwed with this post 12-13-2012 at 05:51 AM
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:05 AM   #50009
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Yes, I know. I was making a joke, AudioGuy.



Spud
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:13 AM   #50010
MentalGuru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Did you post three times in a row just to make post number 50,000?

Spud
Nope, I noticed after my second post but didn't have time to add a picture.... The wife was too close...

Here ya go. You might want to recheck post 50,000 now...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=50000





MentalGuru screwed with this post 12-13-2012 at 06:19 AM
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