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Old 12-14-2012, 03:20 PM   #50116
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeBike View Post
I have a buddy here in Portland that has a rightous oil cooler on his pig... I cant post pictures ... any idea how I can get the ability if at all ?
We would love to see some photos. Most of us sign up for Photobucket, or a similar web host for photographs. You can learn how to post photographs on these forums by reading the following thread.

http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...wtopic&t=11188

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:21 PM   #50117
LexLeroy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Thank you, Chip. Those are the stock bolts holding the baffle in my muffler. I don't know the size of the bolts, and I can't find the bolt size in a parts diagram, either.

Spud
My guess would be M6 x 1. I'd go check mine but I parked it tail-to-the-wall behind the VStrom so that my spouse could get her car into the garage.
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:23 PM   #50118
Spud Rider
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Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
I don't think the stockers on any year are socket-head...
I'm sure you're correct, Dave. I am the third owner of my XR650L, so I can't verify those bolts are stock. I didn't change the bolts, so I assumed they were stock.

Spud
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:31 PM   #50119
Mossy-Back
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Hey Spud,

How does the Primary Drive 650R sprocket compare to the Moose Racing?

I want to go to a 14T, and the PD one costs half as much as the Moose...
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2013 Husqvarna Strada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:56 PM   #50120
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Hey Spud,

How does the Primary Drive 650R sprocket compare to the Moose Racing?

I want to go to a 14T, and the PD one costs half as much as the Moose...

The old $.02
In general, you get what you pay for. I recommend an OEM countershaft sprocket but the choice is yours.
Spud has documented much less output shaft spline wear when using the wider 650R sprocket.
There is a slight alignment issue with that sprocket however.
Spuds studies show this not to be an issue.
A smaller countershaft sprocket is the most inexpensive way to more reduction.
But a smaller sprocket increases chain wear, will wear through the chain slider and into the swing arm sooner than a 15T, and having the reduction at the point of load, using a bigger sprocket at the rear wheel, is more efficient.
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:57 PM   #50121
prince_ruben
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Originally Posted by Ben99r1 View Post
I am. I also know about 2 or 3 other guys on L's that are going to make it. I have not decided if I am taking my tent trailer or just riding the bike with my gear. If I ride I just install my 15 tooth sprocket, highway pegs, and a seat pad. That makes the L into a touring bike for me. You should check out the carizo plans ride next month. A lot of the guys that do that ride do the DV noob ride. Ill decide on the trailer if I find someone to split the fuel cost with me. Here is the link to the Carrizo ride. http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=carrizo
I haven't decided if I'm gonna take the XRL or the GS but I'm gonna ride up. I'll look into this Carrizo Plain ride.
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Old 12-14-2012, 04:02 PM   #50122
Mossy-Back
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
The old $.02
In general, you get what you pay for. I recommend an OEM countershaft sprocket but the choice is yours.
Spud has documented much less output shaft spline wear when using a 650R sprocket.
There is a slight alignment issue with that sprocket however.
Spuds studies show this not to be an issue.
A smaller countershaft sprocket is the most inexpensive way to more reduction.
But a smaller sprocket increases chain wear, will wear through the chain slider and into the swing arm sooner than a 15T, and having the reduction at the point of load, the rear wheel, is more efficient.
Thanks, I'm just trying to decide whether I want to stick with my 15t front and go with a 48 tooth rear and longer chain, or go to a 14t front with stock rear sprocket and stock length chain.

I've already got the Moose 15t front which is fairly new, but I need a new chain and rear sprocket soon. I can get a good deal on an EK O-ring chain that's 120L long at a local place and get a 48t rear for either $20 online, or $40 from that same shop.
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2013 Husqvarna Strada
'93 XR650L (Gone, but missed)
Ooh-Rah! Once a Marine, always a Marine!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-14-2012, 04:06 PM   #50123
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Thanks, I'm just trying to decide whether I want to stick with my 15t front and go with a 48 tooth rear and longer chain, or go to a 14t front with stock rear sprocket and stock length chain.

I've already got the Moose 15t front which is fairly new, but I need a new chain and rear sprocket soon. I can get a good deal on an EK O-ring chain that's 120L long at a local place and get a 48t rear for either $20 online, or $40 from that same shop.
I change to 48 for long offroad trips and the standard 110 link chin fits this comb.on my 96.
When buying chains, " you get what you pay for" more dollars, more wear.
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96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:32 PM   #50124
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I was riding to grab some dinner and tight after I blared my horn at some idiot and when I came back off the clutch, a pathetic groan, grind, and Chris is broken down. Tried prayer and running through the gears (the cycled through fine) but when I released the clutch lever, nothing except an unhappy bike groaning and going not forward.

I don't have enough time on my new-to-me XRL to diagnose.

What's your diagnosis, doctors?
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:45 PM   #50125
kubiak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dooga View Post
I was riding to grab some dinner and tight after I blared my horn at some idiot and when I came back off the clutch, a pathetic groan, grind, and Chris is broken down. Tried prayer and running through the gears (the cycled through fine) but when I released the clutch lever, nothing except an unhappy bike groaning and going not forward.

I don't have enough time on my new-to-me XRL to diagnose.

What's your diagnosis, doctors?
look down at the front sprocket to see if it is stripped or if the splines are stripped.
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:15 PM   #50126
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Hey Spud,

How does the Primary Drive 650R sprocket compare to the Moose Racing?

I want to go to a 14T, and the PD one costs half as much as the Moose...
The PBI/Moose Racing, XR650R C/S sprockets are a little narrower, and have a deeper chamfer than the Primary Drive, XR650R C/S sprockets. Therefore, your Moose Racing, XR650R C/S sprocket will be easier to install on your XR650L's countershaft. I like the Primary Drive, rear sprockets for the XR650L. However, I don't recommend the Primary Drive, XR650R C/S sprocket, because it will require a lot more "persuasion" to install on the XR650L countershaft.

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:16 PM   #50127
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dooga View Post
I was riding to grab some dinner and tight after I blared my horn at some idiot and when I came back off the clutch, a pathetic groan, grind, and Chris is broken down. Tried prayer and running through the gears (the cycled through fine) but when I released the clutch lever, nothing except an unhappy bike groaning and going not forward.

I don't have enough time on my new-to-me XRL to diagnose.

What's your diagnosis, doctors?
Quote:
Originally Posted by kubiak View Post
look down at the front sprocket to see if it is stripped or if the splines are stripped.
I agree; I fear you might have stripped the splines off the countershaft.

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:25 PM   #50128
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Thanks, I'm just trying to decide whether I want to stick with my 15t front and go with a 48 tooth rear and longer chain, or go to a 14t front with stock rear sprocket and stock length chain.

I've already got the Moose 15t front which is fairly new, but I need a new chain and rear sprocket soon. I can get a good deal on an EK O-ring chain that's 120L long at a local place and get a 48t rear for either $20 online, or $40 from that same shop.
I prefer to install the Primary Drive, 48T rear sprocket on my XR650L. I usually install a PBI, 14T, XR650R C/S sprocket for normal riding. However, I also have the option to install a 15T C/S sprocket for extended street riding, using the same, 110-link drive chain.

Spud
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:04 PM   #50129
Mossy-Back
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
The PBI/Moose Racing, XR650R C/S sprockets are a little narrower, and have a deeper chamfer than the Primary Drive, XR650R C/S sprockets. Therefore, your Moose Racing, XR650R C/S sprocket will be easier to install on your XR650L's countershaft. I like the Primary Drive, rear sprockets for the XR650L. However, I don't recommend the Primary Drive, XR650R C/S sprocket, because it will require a lot more "persuasion" to install on the XR650L countershaft.

Spud
Thanks Spud. I think it was the Primary Drive rear 48 tooth that I was looking at.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
I change to 48 for long offroad trips and the standard 110 link chin fits this comb.on my 96.
When buying chains, " you get what you pay for" more dollars, more wear.
How much adjustment do you lose with the 110 link chain and a 48 rear?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I prefer to install the Primary Drive, 48T rear sprocket on my XR650L. I usually install a PBI, 14T, XR650R C/S sprocket for normal riding. However, I also have the option to install a 15T C/S sprocket for extended street riding, using the same, 110-link drive chain.

Spud
Same question for you then... how much adjustment do you lose using the 110 chain with a 48 rear?
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Evan
2013 Husqvarna Strada
'93 XR650L (Gone, but missed)
Ooh-Rah! Once a Marine, always a Marine!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:22 PM   #50130
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
...how much adjustment do you lose using the 110 chain with a 48 rear?
With a 14T/48T sprocket combination, the snail adjusters are on mark 10 with a brand new, 110-link drive chain. As the chain stretches, you can easily switch back and forth to a 15T C/S sprocket. I haven't verified it, but I think you could also install a 15T C/S sprocket with a new, 110-link drive chain. Of course, you can always buy a 112-link chain, or longer, and you will be certain the drive chain is long enough.





Spud
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