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[sc-razor]

Originally Posted by RZRob

Sort of similar - sort of. I'm dealing with a divorce right now and can't get to my house until after new years. I've got the bikes where I'm staying, but all need work and basically all my tools are at my house. I could ride something, but it's like freezing everywhere - oh and everything takes money - and my wife got all of that from me already.

RZ Rob

I've got a truck, trailer, bolt cutters, a Dremel, a free weekend and camo. You anywhere close to NW Arkansas?

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by bwalsh

My foul language vocabulary is pretty extensive. Now I have something to blame it on. I was looking at the dremel 4000 about a month ago. I could use some of the attachments in the near future. Just didn't pull the trigger...yet.

Spud, I'm tryin the signal flasher route for now. I may get one of those dimmers sometime in the future. Did you two make a dashboard for the heater switch or???

I already had a hackjob dash that I drilled a hole in for the switch.

The relay is bolted to the number plate mounting hole on the front of my top USD triple.

The flasher is ziptied into the rats nest of wires behind the headlight. I plan to rethink the dash this winter. I want to incorporate a cigarette lighter power outlet and get my indicator lights back in play.

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

Thanks for the reply, Red. If I may ask, how much did the heavy-duty, electronic flasher cost? I found one at AutoZone which costs $12.99.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...fier=6415_0_0_



I'm thinking of buying this DPDT Center Off (DPCO) switch from Radio Shack for $3.69.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062518



I would replace the Tusk SPDT switch with the DPCO switch from Radio Shack, and wire it in the following manner, as shown in the following thread.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850635



The grip heaters would be wired in series for the "low" setting, which would double the resistance. Since I = E/R, if the resistance doubles as the voltage remains at 12V, the current should be reduced to half. Have I made a mistake in my calculations? I realize the "high" circuit is wired in parallel.

Spud

Here's what I used:

http://blazer-international.com/Prod...hires/FL33.jpg


I connected a hot wire directly to the hot side of the battery to a 20 amp inline fuse.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=32415_0_0_
I have my battery under my seat. The fuse block is ziptied to the frame rail... easy access by pulling off the number plate. The hot wire from the fuse runs to the 30 terminal on the relay. The 85 terminal goes to the green wire that fed the dash light. The 86 terminal goes to the black dash light wire. the 87 terminal wire goes to the heater. The other heater wire goes to a ground.

[Brown Falcon]

Got my bike partially torn down and oil drained today.

First thing tomorrow morning my buddy is bringing his XRL over to my place (on a trailer) and we're going to adjust valves on both bikes, and then put in my new clutch, put on my fork skins, and tweak my suspension a bit.

Any advice for removing the right side engine cover? Does the brake lever need to come off?

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by Schultz!

Hehe I know the feeling just got up from the basement and seen all this talk of "lipstick on pigs" and fun with a Dremel.

Was working on/with all of the above!

Santa brought me a XRs case saver! My only problem with it is it looked like it was machined with endmills from 1940

So a dremel with a 320 flap wheel, some 600/1000 wet sandpaper plus the polishing wheel I have this beauty

Me likey... A LOT!

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by Schultz!

If i was in your shoes I would pick up the Dremel 3000, I have 2 4000s that I have had both repaired twice for burning out the speed controls for a total of 4 failures. The 3000 might get a bit hot running at low rpm or a large flap wheel but keeps asking me to punish it more with out a single issue.

I also have a 3000. I run a flex-shaft attachment on mine. I think it makes fine detail work easier.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...spx?pid=225-01

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by Brown Falcon

...Any advice for removing the right side engine cover? Does the brake lever need to come off?

I don't know if you have to remove the rear brake pedal to remove the clutch cover. However, I decided it was best to remove the rear brake pedal.

P.S. Have fun with the cotter pins.

Spud

[mcma111]

Originally Posted by Brown Falcon

Got my bike partially torn down and oil drained today.

First thing tomorrow morning my buddy is bringing his XRL over to my place (on a trailer) and we're going to adjust valves on both bikes, and then put in my new clutch, put on my fork skins, and tweak my suspension a bit.

Any advice for removing the right side engine cover? Does the brake lever need to come off?

When having to remove the clutch cover I leave the pedal in place but I remove both the brake pedal and brake light switch springs along with the master cylinder bolts. This way you can depress the pedal to get the clearance you need to remove the clutch cover.

Am I going to tell all of you guys ALL of my secrets ???

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

Here's what I used:

http://blazer-international.com/Prod...hires/FL33.jpg...

Thank you, Red. I looked online at AutoZone and O'Reilly, but I can't find that flasher anywhere. Do you remember approximately how much it cost?

Spud

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

Thank you, Red. I looked online at AutoZone and O'Reilly, but I can't find that flasher anywhere. Do you remember approximately how much it cost?

Spud

I dont... I bought it several years ago when I was fighting with my blinkers. I ended up with several different flashers. I think any turn signal flasher would work.

[Brown Falcon]

Originally Posted by mcma111

When having to remove the clutch cover I leave the pedal in place but I remove both the brake pedal and brake light switch springs along with the master cylinder bolts. This way you can depress the pedal to get the clearance you need to remove the clutch cover.

Am I going to tell all of you guys ALL of my secrets ???

Thanks Steve. I was thinking about trying that so I didn't have to remove the pins. Anything I need to watch out for when removing that oil line above the filter cover?

[Memnok]

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

I have my battery under my seat. The fuse block is ziptied to the frame rail... easy access by pulling off the number plate. The hot wire from the fuse runs to the 30 terminal on the relay. The 85 terminal goes to the green wire that fed the dash light. The 86 terminal goes to the black dash light wire. the 87 terminal wire goes to the heater. The other heater wire goes to a ground.

Can you link the relay too? This sounds like a great idea. I wanted to run them off of something switched, but worried that the additional draw from the warmers would blow a fuse. The relay sounds perfect.

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

I dont... I bought it several years ago when I was fighting with my blinkers. I ended up with several different flashers. I think any turn signal flasher would work.

Thank you, Red. I think this electronic flasher will work well; it only costs $9.49.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...D12_0335211065





I analyzed the DPCO switch cirucuit, with the help of an electrical engineer. The Tusk Heated Grip Kit consumes about 9.0 watts per grip on low setting, with the resistor consuming about 7.2 watts. The high setting consumes about 17.8 watts per grip. Therefore, the low setting generates about 1/2 the heat of the high setting, and wastes 7.2 watts from the resistor.

The DPCO switch circuit consumes about 4.42 watts per grip on the low setting, which is about 1/2 the heat generated by the Tusk setup on low heat, and 1/4 the heat generated by the high setting. Therefore, I won't be using the DPCO switch. I think I am going to follow your example, and install an electronic relay. The LED dimmer is very nice, and inexpensive; however, it's just too large for me.

Spud

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by Memnok

Can you link the relay too? This sounds like a great idea. I wanted to run them off of something switched, but worried that the additional draw from the warmers would blow a fuse. The relay sounds perfect.

I'm not sure I understand your question. I'll do my best to answer what I think you are asking. If I am way off... let me know. The power to the heater runs through the relay. The relay is also wired to the dash light wire which is only hot when the key is on. If the key is not on, there is no juice flowing to the grip heaters.

[mcma111]

Originally Posted by Brown Falcon

Thanks Steve. I was thinking about trying that so I didn't have to remove the pins. Anything I need to watch out for when removing that oil line above the filter cover?

You may have to remove the mid pipe bolt to have enough movement for the clutch cover to come off. Remove the top banjo bolt and the pipe will be plenty loose. Be sure to keep track of the copper crush washers and which banjo bolt goes where. IIRC the black banjo bolt is on the bottom. It has a larger hole/passageway.