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Old 12-28-2012, 03:58 PM   #50686
Mossy-Back
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Corvallis, OR
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Got my bike partially torn down and oil drained today.

First thing tomorrow morning my buddy is bringing his XRL over to my place (on a trailer) and we're going to adjust valves on both bikes, and then put in my new clutch, put on my fork skins, and tweak my suspension a bit.

Any advice for removing the right side engine cover? Does the brake lever need to come off?
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Evan
2013 Husqvarna Strada
'93 XR650L (Gone, but missed)
Ooh-Rah! Once a Marine, always a Marine!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:01 PM   #50687
ThumpnRed
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Location: Eye Duh Hoe
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Originally Posted by Schultz! View Post
Hehe I know the feeling just got up from the basement and seen all this talk of "lipstick on pigs" and fun with a Dremel.

Was working on/with all of the above!

Santa brought me a XRs case saver! My only problem with it is it looked like it was machined with endmills from 1940

So a dremel with a 320 flap wheel, some 600/1000 wet sandpaper plus the polishing wheel I have this beauty


Me likey... A LOT!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:07 PM   #50688
ThumpnRed
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Originally Posted by Schultz! View Post
If i was in your shoes I would pick up the Dremel 3000, I have 2 4000s that I have had both repaired twice for burning out the speed controls for a total of 4 failures. The 3000 might get a bit hot running at low rpm or a large flap wheel but keeps asking me to punish it more with out a single issue.
I also have a 3000. I run a flex-shaft attachment on mine. I think it makes fine detail work easier.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...spx?pid=225-01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:09 PM   #50689
Spud Rider
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Location: Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
...Any advice for removing the right side engine cover? Does the brake lever need to come off?
I don't know if you have to remove the rear brake pedal to remove the clutch cover. However, I decided it was best to remove the rear brake pedal.

P.S. Have fun with the cotter pins.

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:20 PM   #50690
mcma111
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Location: San Francisco,Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Got my bike partially torn down and oil drained today.

First thing tomorrow morning my buddy is bringing his XRL over to my place (on a trailer) and we're going to adjust valves on both bikes, and then put in my new clutch, put on my fork skins, and tweak my suspension a bit.

Any advice for removing the right side engine cover? Does the brake lever need to come off?

When having to remove the clutch cover I leave the pedal in place but I remove both the brake pedal and brake light switch springs along with the master cylinder bolts. This way you can depress the pedal to get the clearance you need to remove the clutch cover.

Am I going to tell all of you guys ALL of my secrets ???
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BMW's
58 R26
79 R100s
91 R100gs

87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:24 PM   #50691
Spud Rider
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Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
Thank you, Red. I looked online at AutoZone and O'Reilly, but I can't find that flasher anywhere. Do you remember approximately how much it cost?

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:43 PM   #50692
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Thank you, Red. I looked online at AutoZone and O'Reilly, but I can't find that flasher anywhere. Do you remember approximately how much it cost?

Spud
I dont... I bought it several years ago when I was fighting with my blinkers. I ended up with several different flashers. I think any turn signal flasher would work.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:52 PM   #50693
Mossy-Back
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Location: Corvallis, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
When having to remove the clutch cover I leave the pedal in place but I remove both the brake pedal and brake light switch springs along with the master cylinder bolts. This way you can depress the pedal to get the clearance you need to remove the clutch cover.

Am I going to tell all of you guys ALL of my secrets ???
Thanks Steve. I was thinking about trying that so I didn't have to remove the pins. Anything I need to watch out for when removing that oil line above the filter cover?
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Evan
2013 Husqvarna Strada
'93 XR650L (Gone, but missed)
Ooh-Rah! Once a Marine, always a Marine!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:58 PM   #50694
Memnok
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Turlock, Ca
Oddometer: 348
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
I have my battery under my seat. The fuse block is ziptied to the frame rail... easy access by pulling off the number plate. The hot wire from the fuse runs to the 30 terminal on the relay. The 85 terminal goes to the green wire that fed the dash light. The 86 terminal goes to the black dash light wire. the 87 terminal wire goes to the heater. The other heater wire goes to a ground.
Can you link the relay too? This sounds like a great idea. I wanted to run them off of something switched, but worried that the additional draw from the warmers would blow a fuse. The relay sounds perfect.
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Good government is no substitute for self-government. Mahatma Gandhi

That government is best which governs least, because its people discipline themselves. - Thomas Jefferson
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:43 PM   #50695
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
I dont... I bought it several years ago when I was fighting with my blinkers. I ended up with several different flashers. I think any turn signal flasher would work.
Thank you, Red. I think this electronic flasher will work well; it only costs $9.49.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...D12_0335211065





I analyzed the DPCO switch cirucuit, with the help of an electrical engineer. The Tusk Heated Grip Kit consumes about 9.0 watts per grip on low setting, with the resistor consuming about 7.2 watts. The high setting consumes about 17.8 watts per grip. Therefore, the low setting generates about 1/2 the heat of the high setting, and wastes 7.2 watts from the resistor.

The DPCO switch circuit consumes about 4.42 watts per grip on the low setting, which is about 1/2 the heat generated by the Tusk setup on low heat, and 1/4 the heat generated by the high setting. Therefore, I won't be using the DPCO switch. I think I am going to follow your example, and install an electronic relay. The LED dimmer is very nice, and inexpensive; however, it's just too large for me.

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil

Spud Rider screwed with this post 12-28-2012 at 09:43 PM
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Old 12-28-2012, 07:19 PM   #50696
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Memnok View Post
Can you link the relay too? This sounds like a great idea. I wanted to run them off of something switched, but worried that the additional draw from the warmers would blow a fuse. The relay sounds perfect.
I'm not sure I understand your question. I'll do my best to answer what I think you are asking. If I am way off... let me know. The power to the heater runs through the relay. The relay is also wired to the dash light wire which is only hot when the key is on. If the key is not on, there is no juice flowing to the grip heaters.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:02 PM   #50697
mcma111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Thanks Steve. I was thinking about trying that so I didn't have to remove the pins. Anything I need to watch out for when removing that oil line above the filter cover?

You may have to remove the mid pipe bolt to have enough movement for the clutch cover to come off. Remove the top banjo bolt and the pipe will be plenty loose. Be sure to keep track of the copper crush washers and which banjo bolt goes where. IIRC the black banjo bolt is on the bottom. It has a larger hole/passageway.
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BMW's
58 R26
79 R100s
91 R100gs

87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:23 PM   #50698
Memnok
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Location: Turlock, Ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
I'm not sure I understand your question. I'll do my best to answer what I think you are asking. If I am way off... let me know. The power to the heater runs through the relay. The relay is also wired to the dash light wire which is only hot when the key is on. If the key is not on, there is no juice flowing to the grip heaters.
I think I figured it out. I was not sure which relay to use, but it looks like I can use a 4 pin single pole.

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Clint >>> 2007 XR650L <<<

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Good government is no substitute for self-government. Mahatma Gandhi

That government is best which governs least, because its people discipline themselves. - Thomas Jefferson
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:32 PM   #50699
fritzcoinc
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Location: Cypress, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
You may have to remove the mid pipe bolt to have enough movement for the clutch cover to come off. Remove the top banjo bolt and the pipe will be plenty loose. Be sure to keep track of the copper crush washers and which banjo bolt goes where. IIRC the black banjo bolt is on the bottom. It has a larger hole/passageway.
+1
You need to remove the small bolt that holds the oil pipe to the head also.
Leave the mid pipe bolt and pull the cover off about 1/2" to get the room to remove the lower banjo bolt completely from under the exhaust.
Assemble in reverse of dissasembly.
Remove the brake lever to have clear access, clean and grease the petal shaft upon re-assembly.

I am sure you have read about the O ring on the oil tube and the crank end seal.
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96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7

fritzcoinc screwed with this post 12-28-2012 at 09:46 PM
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:49 PM   #50700
ThumpnRed
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Location: Eye Duh Hoe
Oddometer: 2,463
Grip Heater Wiring Diagram

Pictures are always easier...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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