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Old 12-30-2012, 06:59 PM   #50836
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Let me thank you again for the most amazing scenic pictures with your posts, Spudman.

I have never tried a D952. Looking it up, I see the widest is 120 and currently $76. The Pirelli Scorpion Pro All Terrain/Enduro Rear Tire is currently $12 more for a 140 width...
I prefer the size 110/90-18 tire, D952 tire, since the low aspect ratio reduces saddle height. This tire is currently selling at Rocky Mountain ATV/MC for $69.99

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...i-Terrain-Tire



Besides the lower saddle height, I enjoy the reduced weight and lower cost of the size 110/90-18 tire. This rear tire works very well for me, but I don't ride in sand.

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:03 PM   #50837
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Let me thank you again for the most amazing scenic pictures with your posts, Spudman.

I have never tried a D962. Looking it up, I see the widest is 120 and currently $76. The Pirelli Scorpion Pro All Terrain/Enduro Rear Tire is currently $12 more for a 140 width.

Am I the only one on here who has tried the Pirelli Scorpion Pro All Terrain/Enduro Rear Tire?

The folks I ride with prefer to use lower pressures for better traction. They are saying 12 to 15 psi. While I got good traction at 15 psi, I also broke the front and rear rims twice each. Since then, I have been running 22 psi rear and 24 psi front and have had no further breaks yet. I skitter around on the loose stuff notably more than with lower pressure, but breaking rims is just too costly.

Seems like every time I change front tire, it seems to be not as good as the previous one. I had as much trouble getting used to the MT21 as I did the D606 but both were fine once I learned how they responded. Never experienced the CST, but you can add the Scorpion Pro to the list of good front tires.

What ever happened to that Terra-flex monster rear tire? Did anyone on here ever get to try one of those? They were supposed to have been the 'bees knees'!
I guy I ride with had one on his XR650R for a short period of time. They weigh a TON and are an absolute bitch to mount. They are also a really hard compound that is close to dangerous on the street. I would not run one if it was free.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:14 PM   #50838
Mossy-Back
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Seeing that I don't NEED a DOT tire (no inspections here), that D952 is sounding better all the time...

In your opinion Spud, would you get more life out of the 110 rear or the 120 rear D952?
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Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:23 PM   #50839
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Seeing that I don't NEED a DOT tire (no inspections here), that D952 is sounding better all the time...

In your opinion Spud, would you get more life out of the 110 rear or the 120 rear D952?
In this instance, I don't think an extra, 10mm width adds that much to tire longevity. For any given tire, other than the way you apply the throttle, the most important factor for tire longevity is inflation pressure.

I prefer the size 110/90-18, D952 rear tire, because it costs less, weighs less, and reduces saddle height more than the larger, size 120/90-18, rear tire. However, if saddle height isn't an issue, I can understand why some riders would prefer the wider tire.

Spud
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Spud Rider screwed with this post 12-30-2012 at 07:37 PM
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:28 PM   #50840
Mossy-Back
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Thanks Spud! I might just try that tire out when summer is closer.

On a different note... Anyone have a decent, used skid-plate they want to get rid of?
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Quote:
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:50 PM   #50841
mcma111
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Some of you have noted my preference of a 606 rear and a MT21 front. Cross brands for sure but the performance of the 606 rear which is a pretty good knobby matched with the MT 21 front just works. The 606 front simply wears out and goes away to fast.

Tires are a very subjective subject just like toilet paper. To each ones own. I have two 606 rears and a Dunlop MX51 front waiting in the wings.
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:20 PM   #50842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
... I prefer the size 110/90-18, ...reduces saddle height ... However, if saddle height isn't an issue, I can understand why some riders would prefer the wider tire.
The saddle height difference between a 110/90 and a 140/80 is one-half inch. That's on a solid surface. In the soft/loose stuff, it'll be more because the narrow tire will sink more. I'd rather be high and dry. I try to keep my feet up, anyway. And with the nasty stuff I ride over, I need all the clearance I have. I also need all the travel, too, so no lowering links or other suspension compromising shenanigans. Sometimes I wish I was closer to the ground, like in the old days, but then most of the time I don't.
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:45 PM   #50843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
26 psi!!!!! I usually run mine at 20 during the week and drop them to 10-15 for trail duty. Nothing judicious about the throttle either... that may explain why my mileage is a tad less than yours

+1. I am learning that higher pressure is good for knobbies on the street. Both handling ( on the street ) and wear is better with higher pressures like 25 to 27. I'll use 15 to 18 off road.
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:08 PM   #50844
bp_josh
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New handlebar time!

I think I'm gonna finally bite the bullet and get some new handlebars. My two goals are to get higher bars (I'm 6'4" and even with Rox 2" risers can't comfortably ride standing up), and to kill a lot of vibration.

Anyone have recommendations on bars with really high bends, that do really well killing vibration? I tried the bb trick with my current stock bars, but I can't really tell how much it helped with vibration as I haven't done any highway riding since. Do I need to go to the 1 1/8" bars over the stock 7/8" for vibration? I'd like to spend as little as possible (as always), but if going to thicker bars helps a lot with vibration then so be it. I know this ain't no goldwing, but my last highway day had my hands tingling for weeks!

So other than new...well, new everything if I bump up to thicker bars, if I were to do high bend bars with the biggest risers I can find, would I have to replace every cable, or just some of them?


And while I'm asking for advice - anyone know a cheap/easy way to move the rear turn signals farther back? I have soft saddlebags I throw over the seat for trips, and the rear turn signals keep me from putting them as far back as I'd like.


Also also, does everyone carry spare tubes with them, and where do they store them? I'm paranoid about being stranded and try to carry spares, but they're heavy and take up lots of room. Maybe if I do the battery relocation I could strap them in where the battery box currently is...
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:21 PM   #50845
ONandOFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
+1. I am learning that... wear is better with higher pressures like 25 to 27. I'll use 15 to 18 off road.
That's cool; wish I could afford that luxury. I ride the roads to the trails, so I have to use the same pressure for both.

And since I can't afford broken rims, no more low pressure trail rides.
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:50 PM   #50846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bp_josh View Post
... new handlebars....killing vibration... highway day ... high bend bars with the biggest risers ... move the rear turn signals farther back ... battery relocation ...
Sounds like you'd be wise to add a street bike to your stable.
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:51 PM   #50847
Ironman2001
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I was thinking on getting some replacement rims(front and rear) from Procycle. Sun rims with RAD hubs.

Anything I should watch for?
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:46 PM   #50848
Walterxr650l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bp_josh View Post

And while I'm asking for advice - anyone know a cheap/easy way to move the rear turn signals farther back? I have soft saddlebags I throw over the seat for trips, and the rear turn signals keep me from putting them as far back as I'd like.


Also also, does everyone carry spare tubes with them, and where do they store them? I'm paranoid about being stranded and try to carry spares, but they're heavy and take up lots of room. Maybe if I do the battery relocation I could strap them in where the battery box currently is...
Get a couple pieces of flat bar. Drill a hole in each end of each. Make sure the holes match the turn signal stalks. Bolt one end of the bar where the turn signal used to mount. Bolt the turn signal to the other end. Lengthen turn signal wire as needed. I would drill the end being bolted to the subframe in a couple inches from the end of the bar. Then I would wire tie or hose clamp the very end to the frame so that it could not pivot.

Carry spare tubes in a front fender bag. Consider bolting it to the fender, or drill small holes in the fender by the bags hooks and wire tie then to the fender. Keeps you from loosing the fender bag in rough terrain. Some carry tire irons in the fender bag also.

Walter
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Walterxr650l screwed with this post 12-30-2012 at 10:53 PM
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:52 PM   #50849
Walterxr650l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
That's cool; wish I could afford that luxury. I ride the roads to the trails, so I have to use the same pressure for both.

And since I can't afford broken rims, no more low pressure trail rides.

Get a tire pump. A mountain bike pump will do the job. I think the Mountain Morph by Topeak is best. Or get one of the Small 12 volt tire pumps. Much easier. If you worry about the 12 volt pump or your battery failing, (I don't) then get one of each.

Walter
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:28 PM   #50850
michael.brat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Just sounds like the starter is getting tired. You might consider a rebuild. I got a kit off of E-Bay for about $30.00.
Thanks Steve! Is it worth getting an OE rebuild kit (if one exists) or ebay just fine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I found a small, pulse wave modulation (PWM), LED dimmer on eBay for $3.48 delivered.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140813968248...84.m1497.l2649



I am going to substitute this PWM device for the 2-ohm resistor which reducess power for the low setting on my Tusk grip heaters. This device is fully adjustable from zero power to full power. This dimmer is also small enough to fit easily behind the headlight shroud; it has the following dimensions.

Length: 2-5/8 inches
Width: 1-5/16 inches
Height: 7/8 inch

This PWM device is rated for 5 amps current, and 60 watts power. The Tusk grip heaters draw a maximum of 3 amps current, and 36 watts power.

Spud
I'd like to see a short write up of the install if you get the chance

Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Hey Mike, mine's back together and running like a champ, workin' those forest "roads"!
Well, in better weather, anyway...

So I can't get that video to play on this computer here right now... but if Steve says the starter... when mine went bonkers (with noise) I simply took it all apart, cleaned up the dried black stuff, and put new high-grade grease in there. Been cranking smoothly and quietly ever since. Just take note of your brushes and commutator when you're in there. (and don't let the grease get on any of those... you know the drill)

As you can see, we've had a couple of new additions to the "family" since you've been here!
Woof woof
Hey George! Man, I was gonna call you the other day. My a.d.d. kicked in before I got a chance though. Glad to hear the XRL is going again.

Good call on the starter; I'll give that a try before dishing out the cash. I though it was coming out of the side case so hopefully it's just the starter.

Where's the wiener dog at?

Mike B
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