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Old 12-31-2012, 08:40 AM   #50866
ThumpnRed
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Originally Posted by bp_josh View Post
I think I'm gonna finally bite the bullet and get some new handlebars. My two goals are to get higher bars (I'm 6'4" and even with Rox 2" risers can't comfortably ride standing up), and to kill a lot of vibration.

Anyone have recommendations on bars with really high bends, that do really well killing vibration? I tried the bb trick with my current stock bars, but I can't really tell how much it helped with vibration as I haven't done any highway riding since. Do I need to go to the 1 1/8" bars over the stock 7/8" for vibration? I'd like to spend as little as possible (as always), but if going to thicker bars helps a lot with vibration then so be it. I know this ain't no goldwing, but my last highway day had my hands tingling for weeks!

So other than new...well, new everything if I bump up to thicker bars, if I were to do high bend bars with the biggest risers I can find, would I have to replace every cable, or just some of them?


And while I'm asking for advice - anyone know a cheap/easy way to move the rear turn signals farther back? I have soft saddlebags I throw over the seat for trips, and the rear turn signals keep me from putting them as far back as I'd like.


Also also, does everyone carry spare tubes with them, and where do they store them? I'm paranoid about being stranded and try to carry spares, but they're heavy and take up lots of room. Maybe if I do the battery relocation I could strap them in where the battery box currently is...
I carry a 21" (front tube) on the front fender. The bag that I have does not require drilling holes in the fender... BUT if you are running an OEM type fender, it will fall off. The CRF fender flares out toward the front which keeps the bag clips from sliding forward.

On particularly nasty trail rides, I sometimes also carry a rear tube in the back of my vest.

I got nothing on cables... sorry.
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Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:53 AM   #50867
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Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Does anybody rotate their tires? Reverse rotation? I notice the knobs always wear at an angle to the rotation direction. If you reverse the rotation you would run on the high side to the knob.
Spud does but that's, well,.....................................Spud
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:00 AM   #50868
mrfixit54016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
I'm sure you've considered this already, Sir Spud, but does the control go from 0 to 100 percent power? If so, you can replace BOTH the resistor AND the SWITCH with the new control.

I will second this suggestion. Spud, this is exactly what I did on my XRL and it works quite well. Your idea of only replacing the resistor does have a simplistic appeal however in the fact that you will have a simple flip of a switch instead of trying to dial that small plastic dial while riding.

It will work well either way you choose to do it.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:07 AM   #50869
bwalsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post





Spud
You sure do take nice photos Spud!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
26 psi!!!!! I usually run mine at 20 during the week and drop them to 10-15 for trail duty. Nothing judicious about the throttle either... that may explain why my mileage is a tad less than yours
I'm like Spud...I usually run 24-26 in both tires.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I prefer the size 110/90-18, D952 rear tire, because it costs less, weighs less, and reduces saddle height more than the larger, size 120/90-18, rear tire. However, if saddle height isn't an issue, I can understand why some riders would prefer the wider tire.

Spud
I may try a 120 since my 08 is still at stock height. Damn near get a nose bleed when I get on.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:26 AM   #50870
award900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Does anybody rotate their tires? Reverse rotation? I notice the knobs always wear at an angle to the rotation direction. If you reverse the rotation you would run on the high side to the knob.
I always flip the rears on my KTM. One hidden benefit/nuisance is once you flip, the rounded edge becomes your braking edge. I like it for backing it in to corners, but it does affect rear braking.
I recently bought a Knobby Knife, and I love it. Its basically a large soldering iron with a knife at the end, for sharpening knobs. Takes a little time to develop a technique, but works well. Heres a pic of a tire, after the knife.
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:29 AM   #50871
sc-razor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by award900 View Post
I always flip the rears on my KTM. One hidden benefit/nuisance is once you flip, the rounded edge becomes your braking edge. I like it for backing it in to corners, but it does affect rear braking.
I recently bought a Knobby Knife, and I love it. Its basically a large soldering iron with a knife at the end, for sharpening knobs. Takes a little time to develop a technique, but works well. Heres a pic of a tire, after the knife.
Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2
Yeah I actually used to flip my rears too. Actually a really good idea to add mileage!
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:34 AM   #50872
bwalsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
After my PWM device arrives, I will remove the resistor, and substitute the PWM device in its place. I will initially set the PWM device to half power. However, I can adjust the power knob later to fine tune the heat ouput obtained at the "low" setting.

The current resistor doesn't allow for fine tuning the desired heat output at the "low" setting.



Spud
Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
I'm sure you've considered this already, Sir Spud, but does the control go from 0 to 100 percent power? If so, you can replace BOTH the resistor AND the SWITCH with the new control.
That's what I was thinking. Run the hot wire from the battery or relay(Spud does not have a relay...yet) to the PWM devise and out to the grips. I may order one today.
George, Autozone has the slime brand pump(just the pump) on sale now and then for $9.99. This one...,


I've heard some folks take the plastic cover off to make it smaller. Just have to wait for the pump to cool before stowing it so it won't melt something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Does anybody rotate their tires? Reverse rotation? I notice the knobs always wear at an angle to the rotation direction. If you reverse the rotation you would run on the high side to the knob.
I've only reversed the T-63 fronts(I'm on my second) when I replaced the rear D-606. By that time it's starting a wear pattern which is corrected by reversing the tire. It also has directional arrows but is a uniform knob pattern. Whatever...
The front D-606 were toast by the time the rear was shot and I'm sure reversing it beforehand wouldn't help much.
The Metzeler Enduro III I didn't reverse because of the tread pattern.
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:41 AM   #50873
AZ TOM
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24-26 lbs in the front tire would be scary for me
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Old 12-31-2012, 09:47 AM   #50874
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ TOM View Post
24-26 lbs in the front tire would be scary for me
Amen... I guess running that psi on the street might be OK, but off-road... no freakin' way!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:19 AM   #50875
Mossy-Back
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
George, Autozone has the slime brand pump(just the pump) on sale now and then for $9.99. This one...,


I've heard some folks take the plastic cover off to make it smaller. Just have to wait for the pump to cool before stowing it so it won't melt something.
Is the Slime pump battery powered? If yes, how much life do you get out of a set of batteries?
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:47 AM   #50876
bwalsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Is the Slime pump battery powered? If yes, how much life do you get out of a set of batteries?
12V. Plug and pump, as long as you have a power outlet.
I was going to get another battery tender wire and use the plug on that, on the pump so I can just plug it into the tender wire on the bike. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
EDIT: Here is a pic to give you an idea of the size...4 1/4" T x 3 3/4" W x 1 3/4" D

If you take the case off you can loose at least 1/4 of the bulk.


Ir your not in a hurry, I'd wait till they are on sale. I think they are around $30 normal, which is too high IMO. I stumbled onto the sale one day and bought two!
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bwalsh screwed with this post 12-31-2012 at 12:14 PM
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:14 PM   #50877
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
I'm sure you've considered this already, Sir Spud, but does the control go from 0 to 100 percent power? If so, you can replace BOTH the resistor AND the SWITCH with the new control.
Yes, I certainly have considered that option. ONO. However, the adjustment knob of this PWM device is small, and would be difficult to manipulate with a gloved hand, especially while riding off road.



Also, given the price of the device ($3.48), I don't think the knob is very robust; it would probably fail rather quickly. Finally, I only need two heat settings. Therefore, I will adjust the PWM device for the desired heat output on "low," and tuck it away behind the headlight shroud.

I mounted my 3-position switch at the top of my headlight shroud, and it works great. I can easily move this switch from the "off," "low," and "high" positions with my gloved left hand, even while riding off road.



Spud
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:19 PM   #50878
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Wally World has that pump at 9.88 or so all the time. I keep one in my saddlebag and have used it many times. I fail to see how disassembling it could help much, it does not take up much room.
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:31 PM   #50879
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfixit54016 View Post
I will second this suggestion. Spud, this is exactly what I did on my XRL and it works quite well. Your idea of only replacing the resistor does have a simplistic appeal however in the fact that you will have a simple flip of a switch instead of trying to dial that small plastic dial while riding.

It will work well either way you choose to do it.
If the control knob is large enough, and robust enough, I think that's an excellent idea. However, since I am very happy with two heat settings, I chose my particular PWM device because of it's small size.



The following PWM device has a large, robust control knob which is much better suited for the application you described. This device also costs about the same price as my much smaller controller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Light-Di...item53ef88bbb5



However, this device is much heavier, and much larger than the smaller PWM device I purchased. Mounting this larger device would require a lot more work which I didn't feel was worth the effort.

I enjoy the simplicity of reaching over with my gloved left hand, and flicking the switch between "off," "low," and "high." I can manipulate this switch easily, even while riding off road.



Spud
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:42 PM   #50880
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc-razor View Post
Spud does but that's, well,.....................................Spud
Quote:
Originally Posted by sc-razor View Post
Yeah I actually used to flip my rears too. Actually a really good idea to add mileage!
You're busted, Razor!

I've discovered the best way to increase front tire longevity, and prevent tread "cupping," is to rotate the front tire every 2,000 miles, when I change my motor oil. The best way I have discovered to increase both front and rear tire longevity is to keep the tires inflated to 26 psi.



Spud
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