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Old 01-10-2013, 03:34 PM   #51451
Sourjon
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Location: Louisville, KY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Munn View Post
Just picked up a 2008 XR650L to do the TAT this summer. I know this probably has been posted here somewhere, but with over 3000 posts in this thread I just have to ask instead of spending days sorting thru. Please forgive me.

Have read about Dave's carb mods for 2003 and prior carbs. What about 2004 and newer? This PO of this bike de-smogged it, but left everything else stock. Stock pipe. Stock filter. Stock jets. It fires up and runs fine, but I have no basis for comparison and know uncorking the intake and exhaust always help.

So my question is, do the Dave's mods also apply to later models? If not, what are the recommended mods to making it a little richer? The plug shows me it is on the edge of lean. I'd rather start with the filter, removing the snorkel, and doing the pilot/main, but don't know if it needs the disc spacer on the needle. If possible I'd like to leave the stock exhaust, but am fully capable of making it breath a little better without the noise.

Please enlighten me, or point me to a web page that addresses these issues for the later model XR's. Thanks.

jeff
Jeff I did the TAT a couple years ago on my XRL and it's the perfect weapon for the job. Do Dave's mods. All the carbs are the same and it's worth doing. 55/158 on the jets works for me everywhere but I'm not looking to wring the last smidgen out of the thing and will accept a little less at altitude. It's still more than enough for anything you'll encounter.

If you can get the newest Tenn. maps from Sam. Much better than the original. In the west I'd recommend the original. He's rerouted around Hancock and Tomichi and some others due to complaints from big bike riders. I won't even go into how I feel about that but there it is. If you do Hancock and Tomichi you'll be glad to have the bash plate.

I see you said you have a rack already but I'll plug cycleracks.com anyway. They're big and a little goofy looking but they hold a lot of stuff securely and in my opinion help support the rear subframe. I've done a lot of traveling offroad and on and not had the first frame issue. Plus it's a good handhold to pick the pig up. I tumbled end over end in Oklahoma and everything stayed put. Well except for the windscreen and front fender.

Here's the pig ready for the TAT. Tent, sleeping bag and dry bag on the rack. I used DirtBagz big set and really like them but NOT waterproof. I put everything in dry bags. They're very tough and stable on the bike. D606 front and rear like I always do. Very happy with that combo for my style of riding.


Take your time and look around. It's a big country and lots of great people and scenery to see. Sounds like you've got a great plan with the nephew.


John
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:57 PM   #51452
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:48 PM   #51453
joexr
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Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
I'm going to cut open the top of my xrl airbox for better breathing with the powerbomb header. My jetting is on the rich side, especially the pilot jet/part throttle where I do alot of my riding. I have the stock carb with Dave's mods and the stock needle shimmed. Is the cut open airbox top going to require me re-shimming the needle?
I'm at about 5000ft up in elevation, and ride up to 8000ft sometimes, and am running a 58 pilot (a little big for my elevation) and 155 main jet (keihins).

The bike runs awesome, very sharp throttle response and pulls strong and clean everywhere, and starts with almost no choke needed (because of the rich pilot) and idles great.
The plug reads a little rich tho, so I think the header and cut airbox should be perfect, but not sure if I'll have to re-shim the needle or not.
I was thinking not, but if anybody has any experience with cutting open their airbox and rejetting for it, I'd love to hear your feedback
Dont cut the airbox,the opening is large enough.The problem is airflow under the seat.The raised lip on top of the airbox where the snorkel was,cut it to about1/4 inch high and cut the rib infront of it on the bottom of the seat.Then see if rejetting is necessary.I left part of the lip on the airbox to deter water.

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Old 01-10-2013, 05:16 PM   #51454
ONandOFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
So, I put on a new chain in Medellin, Colombia. Actually, I had a shop do it for me ... it was nice and tight. A few days ago, I went to check it and found it extremely loose! ... the plastic guard at the front of the swingarm had worn all the way through ...a half-milimeter of play in this direction between the splines of the shaft and the splines on the sprocket ... maybe a milimeter of play between the locking splined washer thingy ... and the outer splines of the shaft... Is this normal, or is it wear and should I be concerned? ...
Hi Bryce. You should be concerned. Don't keep riding like that.

People forget about keeping those splines lubricated and they end up getting sloppy, problem is it's not just the sprocket, the shaft itself gets worn too. I'm sure yours is compromised, and it takes a complete engine removal and disassembly to replace, but maybe you can continue with this one if you replace the sprocket with one for the "R" model, which has a longer base contact with the shaft.

Don't worry about the locking tab not engaging tightly with the splines; it's only supposed to hold the sprocket from sliding up and down the shaft much while in the circumference groove. As long as you can insert it as far as the groove, rotate it a half-tooth and have it grab, you're good.

I have a feeling the shop set your chain too tight, and that's what caused it to stretch way out. It may be compromised now, also. Very few people seem to know how to adjust a chain on a motorcycle. They go to measuring play here and there as they think they understand the manufacturer's instructions, and think they've got it, but the procedures are prone to error and misinterpretation. It's very simple with any bike, just compress the rear suspension until the line between the center of the two sprockets passes through the centerline of the swingarm pivot. This is the tightest point the chain sees. Tighten the chain so it's as tight as it can be without putting any "pull" on the sprockets. You can tell when you wiggle the chain as you tighten it, feel it go from sloppy, through just right, to under tension. You don't want tension! Your chain getting so loose so fast indicates it was probably under tension in that suspension position, the same is which probably caused your sprocket to accelerate wear at the shaft. BTW, the teeth on the sprocket look perfectly serviceable, another clue to excessive tightness.

You should measure your chain length off the bike and see if it's still in spec.

You still in Trujillo, or travel today?
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:34 PM   #51455
chipbl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Munn View Post
Will do. I've been reading a LOT of TAT reports.



I am NOT a top end kinda guy. I don't even like going over 60-65 mph on the pavement anymore. I'd much rather go fast on dirt and in the curves.



Loud pipes are obnoxious to me, and most non-riders. Like you, I'd rather be in stealth mode in the back country. Plus, I'm a little bit frugal and paying big bucks for a performance pipe is not where I want to put my money.



I think I'll try the #55/#158 with the clip spacer and see what that does. It is running lean, and is cold blooded. Will go with the UNI filter and maybe remove the snorkel. If I replace them I'll keep them in the kit for the higher elevations, if needed.



The trip is a graduation present for my nephew. He is 18 and needed a small carrot to get to graduation. We'll start in late June on the Outer Banks, literally riding in the Atlantic. Then head west and take the TAT to Oregon. Plan is to camp the majority of the time. His Dad will fly out to Oregon to meet us. We'll change the sprockets, oil, adjust valves, and put on street tires, then he and his Dad will ride back to Virginia on Route 50, and I'll fly home with the camping gear while they motel it. We're planning 5 weeks out, and two weeks back. Planned oil and tire/sprocket changes in Colorado, then again in Oregon.

I'm looking as much towards this ride as any I've ever been on. Only it should be easier with no border crossings, and not having to learn a new language! My normal ride is an R1150GS, but I think the XR will be better suited for this ride, especially out west.

If anyone has great suggestions about the TAT and mods on the XR for it, please let me know. Already have the Clarke 4.7 tank, rear lightweight rack, and a lowering link. Will be adding a bash plate, larger pegs, and some type of rear soft luggage system. Would love to hear what others have used and prefer.

Thanks everyone.

jeff
Here ya go, TAT ready.

Post TAT:



With luggage:



Short nap:



You get the idea. Happy to send you a complete mod list for whatever you can't see.

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Old 01-10-2013, 05:48 PM   #51456
ONandOFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Munn View Post
...I think I'll try the #55/#158 with the clip spacer and see what that does. ...
The trip is a graduation present for my nephew. He is 18 ...jeff
As you wish. You can do it in steps or this way and then go back to what I suggested after you find it bubbly rich and guzzling gas.

The trip sounds sweet, Jeff! I hope your nephew appreciates it. I'd love to do this. Only a few things coming immediately to mind at the moment. A manner of "highway pegs" out front to reposition your feet on long easy stretches. A tool tube up there may be helpful. Rim locks front and back. A connector for charging your phone, etc, while stopped. A good project would be to put together a list and then publicize it for other prospectives to get a head start.

But I can't agree on the lowering link, personally. One good slam on a bottom-out could spell trouble for your back. I would never consider it myself, and I'm a short guy, can barely touch both sides at the same time on tippy-toes. Love my XRL suspension. Next improvement: a control that drops the bike to the bottom of its suspension when stopped, normal suspension action when under way.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:05 PM   #51457
Ulyses
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Countershaft Sprocket and Chain Questions II

Thanks to everyone for getting back to me! I do have an XR650R 15 tooth sprocket up front; we put it on when the bike had only about 2,000 miles on it. I just recently passed 12,000 miles. There really isn't much circular play in the spines at all; should it be totally rock hard snug to the point that you have to pound it on with a hammer? Or is there generally a tiny amount of looseness to it?

The chain is an EK gold chain. I bought it back in the states before I left and have been lugging it around until I got to Colombia and changed it. It's been on for about 2,000 miles now. I thought it was an X-ring chain, but I never took it out of the box to check and when i did I found out it wasn't even an O-ring chain!

Regardless, it's raining right now and I can't reallydo anything about it. I'm going to tighten up the chain in the morning and then run down Lima and find a good bike shop.

If you all think that that sprocket is worn, I know a guy who is coming to Peru in a few days and I could have him bring me a new one. I also have a factory 14 tooth sprocket with me that we took off the bike before putting on the XRR one.

I'll try and take some pictures tomorrow when I get to Lima and maybe a video to show you all what it looks like.

Thanks again!

Ulyses
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:16 PM   #51458
elsalvadorklr
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BRYCE QUIT tightening the chain! thats part of your issue

I use non oring chains and ride hard offroad and only adjust every 500miles or so if needed...

mine last a long time and they are DID normal tensile strength chains

that ek gold you have is a good chain

there is something wrong in your setup and its probably an alignment and overtightening sutuation...

I also use new chains on old sprockets with no issues whatsoever..but I am METICULOUS about alignment and keeping it nice and slack

also lube or clean off after every run...

good luck!

christian
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:09 PM   #51459
Mossy-Back
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Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Wow. It's amazing the way the human mind functions! Count your blessings...
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:18 PM   #51460
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I just received an email indicating the Harbor Freight ATV/Motorcycle Lift is on sale this weekend for $69.99. The regular price is $119.99.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb...tm_source=1002



The Harbor Freight website lists the price as $89.99, but my coupon indicates the price is $69.99. This motorcycle lift is heavy; it almost weighs 70 pounds. However, if you have the shop space to store it, you might enjoy buying this motorcycle lift this weekend, and saving $50 off the regular price.

Spud
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:31 PM   #51461
Ben99r1
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[QUOTE=Ulyses;20450735]Thanks to everyone for getting back to me! I do have an XR650R 15 tooth sprocket up front; we put it on when the bike had only about 2,000 miles on it. I just recently passed 12,000 miles. There really isn't much circular play in the spines at all; should it be totally rock hard snug to the point that you have to pound it on with a hammer? Or is there generally a tiny amount of looseness to it?

The chain is an EK gold chain. I bought it back in the states before I left and have been lugging it around until I got to Colombia and changed it. It's been on for about 2,000 miles now. I thought it was an X-ring chain, but I never took it out of the box to check and when i did I found out it wasn't even an O-ring chain!

Regardless, it's raining right now and I can't reallydo anything about it. I'm going to tighten up the chain in the morning and then run down Lima and find a good bike shop.

If you all think that that sprocket is worn, I know a guy who is coming to Peru in a few days and I could have him bring me a new one. I also have a factory 14 tooth sprocket with me that we took off the bike before putting on the XRR one.

I'll try and take some pictures tomorrow when I get to Lima and maybe a video to show you all what it looks like.

Thanks again!

Ulyses[/Q 10,000 miles on a sprocket set is pretty high. The chain should still be good at only 2000 miles. I personally think that your front sprocket is about done. Its starting to get that shark teeth look to it. They are also starting to bend over the direction of the chain pull. You should have your friend bring you a set.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:35 PM   #51462
Ulyses
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
BRYCE QUIT tightening the chain! thats part of your issue

mine last a long time and they are DID normal tensile strength chains

that ek gold you have is a good chain

also lube or clean off after every run...

good luck!

christian
Let me get something clear; what is the best way to measure and adjust your chain? This is how I have been measuring the chain: The service manual says between 35-45mm of slack in the chain. I make sure the bike is fully loaded down, then have someone sit on it to compress the rear suspension. Then I take a ruler and pull the chain down, meaure the lowere limit, then push the chain up, measure the upper limit. If it's within that 10mm limit I leave it be; if not I tighten or loosen it.

Am I jacked up?

Also, I have been lubing the chain every 300 miles or so (which usually means everyday). I was using 80w-90 gear oil for a while until I found some actually gear oil in a moto shop.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:45 PM   #51463
joexr
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Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
Let me get something clear; what is the best way to measure and adjust your chain? This is how I have been measuring the chain: The service manual says between 35-45mm of slack in the chain. I make sure the bike is fully loaded down, then have someone sit on it to compress the rear suspension. Then I take a ruler and pull the chain down, meaure the lowere limit, then push the chain up, measure the upper limit. If it's within that 10mm limit I leave it be; if not I tighten or loosen it.

Am I jacked up?

Also, I have been lubing the chain every 300 miles or so (which usually means everyday). I was using 80w-90 gear oil for a while until I found some actually gear oil in a moto shop.
Bike unloaded / suspension fully extended,then measure your slack in the middle with light tension up and down. Your front sprocket is good enough for your now ruined chain.I say this because you should always change all 3.When sprockets wear the teeth get further apart.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:46 PM   #51464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
Let me get something clear; what is the best way to measure and adjust your chain? This is how I have been measuring the chain: The service manual says between 35-45mm of slack in the chain. I make sure the bike is fully loaded down, then have someone sit on it to compress the rear suspension. Then I take a ruler and pull the chain down, meaure the lowere limit, then push the chain up, measure the upper limit. If it's within that 10mm limit I leave it be; if not I tighten or loosen it.

Am I jacked up?

Also, I have been lubing the chain every 300 miles or so (which usually means everyday). I was using 80w-90 gear oil for a while until I found some actually gear oil in a moto shop.
80-90W gear oil is an excellent chain lubricant which is recommended by many chain manufacturers.

Let's see a photograph of your rear sprocket. However, even before looking at the photograph, I'm inclined to recommend you install two, new sprockets with your new drive chain.

Also, I am troubled by the rotational play between your C/S sprocket and the C/S splines. The rust on the C/S sprocket itself is also disconcerting. I would like to see a macro photograph of your countershaft splines.

Spud
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:46 PM   #51465
JWhitmore44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ulyses View Post
Let me get something clear; what is the best way to measure and adjust your chain? This is how I have been measuring the chain: The service manual says between 35-45mm of slack in the chain. I make sure the bike is fully loaded down, then have someone sit on it to compress the rear suspension. Then I take a ruler and pull the chain down, meaure the lowere limit, then push the chain up, measure the upper limit. If it's within that 10mm limit I leave it be; if not I tighten or loosen it.

Am I jacked up?

Also, I have been lubing the chain every 300 miles or so (which usually means everyday). I was using 80w-90 gear oil for a while until I found some actually gear oil in a moto shop.
I think the service manual measurement is for an unladen bike. Sounds like it would be too lose the way you are doing it. Could be the reason for your swing arm guide wear. OFFandON had the right idea, but I don't think it is as easy as he makes it sound Although it may be easier if you throw all your gear on the bike, then lean over the seat, grab the swing arm and compress the suspension until the swing arm is straight back from the CS sprocket. It should not be guitar string tight but shouldn't have any slack. Once you set it at that point you can check the slack measurement when you are off the bile and you will know where to set the slack when you are not compressing the suspension.
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