XRL owners sign in.

[bwalsh]

Originally Posted by Ben99r1

I got the tusk grip warmers. I always have trouble with wiring I just done like messing with it. So I wont be going with any other switches or relays. I just want to use what came with the kit. Can someone till what wire should I splice into? What color is it and where about is it? I need one that will not get power when I turn off the key. Thanks guys

Just run a wire from the battery for hot and use any green wire up behind the headlight for a ground. I don't like drawing current from a wire for another accessory. I would recommend adding an inline fuse on the hot side. If you are going to keep the ceramic resistor put it in a place where it wont touch anything. It gets HOT and can melt plastic...on wires, headlight shroud, etc.

EDIT: One more thing, if you don't use a relay DON'T forget to turn them off!!!

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by taco250

Do you think this knob will hold its setting on bumpy roads/trails?

Yes, I'm confident the knob will hold its setting, even in the roughest terrain. However, if the knob loosens, one can always tape it in the desired position. Also, one can merely replace the entire unit for $3.48, delivered.

Spud

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by bwalsh

...I just ordered them right before I posted. I was waiting on your report. Thanks again!

J/K

I just never got around to it until you mentioned it. It's also been so warm the last couple weeks, since right after I installed them, that I haven't needed them.
I don't see how the guy can sell and ship them for that price. He must get them for 50 cents.

You're welcome. This PWM device is pretty rugged, and fairly water resistant. One could also add a little RTV to the seams if he wished to further increase water resistance. The device is so lightweight, a little velcro will hold it securely to any vertical surface. The only weakness I discovered is the knob will not sustain many on/off cycles before it fails.

Spud

[Sierra Thumper]

I just finished bolting up my powerbomb to my Big Gun silencer, just wanted to share the info on how it went. First off, the powerbomb is VERY well made, pretty much what I expected tho from their reputation. Like ThumpnRed mentioned, the powerbomb headpipes arent any bigger at the head than the stockers, but they're smooth as silk weld wise, and have much thicker flanges. Plus they feel several lbs lighter, and look spectacular on the bike, really modernizes the look, and will be WAY easier to keep looking nice than the stock unit. The cool factor is off the charts.
The headers fit very well to the engine, but it took a fair amount of fiddling/adjusting to get the bomb to fit well with the Bug Gun silencer, but in the end it all fits together well, and clears everything
Thumpn said he didn't expect any performance gain, but was pleasantly suprised by a nice improvement in the midrange (similiar to what I've read elsewhere), which is exactly what I'm looking for.
I'm going to open up the top of the airbox a little more, and trim around the base of the seat to let more air underneath.

I'll let you guys know how it runs when I can get a ride in.....right now its sheets of ice and snow for roads, and been below freezing all day every day for way too long.........I really hate winter

[Ben99r1]

Originally Posted by bwalsh

Just run a wire from the battery for hot and use any green wire up behind the headlight for a ground. I don't like drawing current from a wire for another accessory. I would recommend adding an inline fuse on the hot side. If you are going to keep the ceramic resistor put it in a place where it wont touch anything. It gets HOT and can melt plastic...on wires, headlight shroud, etc.

EDIT: One more thing, if you don't use a relay DON'T forget to turn them off!!!

That's why I want it to be connected to the key switch some how. Knowing me like I do I will forget to turn it off. I guess I better just wait and figure out this whole resistors and switches thing some of the guys are talking about. (spud rider hurry up and install yours so I can barrow/ steal the way you installed yours.) I really hate wiring sh!t up.

[mcma111]

Sierra,

Cutting up the top of the air box is a waste of time if you have a stock motor. You will not find any difference in performance.

Now if you had a CW motor with a monster cam then yes, opening the air box might be of some help.

[katbeanz]

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=855866

[elsalvadorklr]

word, not to mention the fact that you are going to be letting in a bunch of dirt and dust from cutting up that perfectly designed honda seat lip that prevents just that...

anywhoooooooooo

if you do decide to go that route you need to coat all the inside faces and airbox intake with grease....youll be surprised who much cleaner your filter lasts

[mcma111]

Originally Posted by katbeanz

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=855866

He'll be sorry...

[Cigar Mike]

Originally Posted by mcma111

Sierra,

Cutting up the top of the air box is a waste of time if you have a stock motor. You will not find any difference in performance.

Now if you had a CW motor with a monster cam then yes, opening the air box might be of some help.

I found that not to be the case when going with the 41FCR and FMF muffler. It does make a difference.

Cheers

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by mcma111

Sierra,

Cutting up the top of the air box is a waste of time if you have a stock motor. You will not find any difference in performance.

Now if you had a CW motor with a monster cam then yes, opening the air box might be of some help.

After inspecting my bike with the seat on, I realized there is VERY little room around the entire seat/airbox area for any air to actually get in......its really VERY restrictive looking. I just can't help but feel that with all the breathing mods done on my bike from the intake/carb/exhaust, that a little more air would help. On other machines I've had good luck opening up the airboxes some I'm not going crazy, just wanted to cut another slot next to the stock airbox hole, and open up the seat area some. In my online research I read of guys having good results with some minor air flow improvements. Its hard for me to stick on a higher velocity, better flowing header and leave the airbox trying to breathe through the tiny, wiring obstructed slots under the seat.
In the end you'll prolly be right tho

Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr

word, not to mention the fact that you are going to be letting in a bunch of dirt and dust from cutting up that perfectly designed honda seat lip that prevents just that...

anywhoooooooooo

if you do decide to go that route you need to coat all the inside faces and airbox intake with grease....youll be surprised who much cleaner your filter lasts

Believe me I DON'T want to cut anything, I'm inherently lazy, and would love to just put the bike back together with the new exhaust installed......but I can't, knowing that a little trimming could possibly complement the new exhaust nicely, and give me some added performance. I know, its a sickness
And thanks for the grease trick

Originally Posted by Cigar Mike

I found that not to be the case when going with the 41FCR and FMF muffler. It does make a difference.

Cheers

Thats what I've read in my research, I figure its worth a shot

[mrfixit54016]

If you want to let the air in, simply pull out the factory snorkle that goes in the top of the airbox. Then, look at the bottom of your seat and find the plastic fins that go across the forward section of the seat pan. They are strengthening ribs that you can drill a few holes in to allow more air to flow without weakening anything.

Pop a UNI filter in there and you will be golden.

[RED CAT]

Are normally jetted so lean, cutting holes in the air box will just make them run leaner.

[joexr]

Thats why you rejet.

[ONandOFF]

Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper

... I was shocked at how smooth and unobtrusive the header welds were. ... there's really no reason to grind them imo, ... Mines an 04. ...

Fascinating! I found the same thing on my '04! No real obstruction, just a hint of splatter in a couple spots, easily cleaned up with the dremel grinder. Didn't look anything like the fat ones Marko put up.