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[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by ONandOFF

Two things will ensure this is an improvement. 1) you can hear the carb better, and 2) it took effort to accomplish.

Funny guy ......although I have to admit, you're right on both counts
I still hope there's another advantage or 2 tho

[techforlife]

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

I'm in a mood, so I aint doing it either

PMS





B

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

Here's something for the asylum. Click on a random post for this thread and then read the four or five pages on either side of it. The exact same shit was discussed there that we are talking about here! Tires, gas tanks, oil... We have found the end of the internet. Nothing more to see. Our work here is done. That's it and good night

What else you wanna talk about....women? Politics? The world economy? I actually like our little escape here.......and I even like talking about tires, gas tanks, oil, bike mods, and especially the ride pics Helps tide me over through are typically brutally unridable winters

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by Barron

My 2006 had big fat welds on it that Mr. Dremel took care of quite nicely

-Barron

Well there goes my theory of the welding getting better over time

Originally Posted by pngaudioguy

My '08 also had overly zealous header welds.

Marko's pics were also from an 08......hmmm

Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave

Ditto on my '01, I didn't even take out my dremel.

I figured the headers would be robot welded to save time, but they must be hand welded to be so inconsistent

[Ben99r1]

[QUOTE=bwalsh;20498195]I'll keep the switch on the lowest setting during the winter when not in use and still have the relay so it wont draw current when the key is off. Come late spring I'll turn it off. Two cycles a year should make it last awhile...I hope!



I am electrically challenged myself and I got it done thanks to ThumpnRed!
I still ran the wire(with fuse) from the battery to the relay. The relay has four pins,
1: hot from the battery
2: hot from a wire that is electrified (I ran this wire form the Speedo light wire)
3: a ground( I ran this from the biggest green wire in the dash. I can't remember what it went to. Just check it with a test light to make sure you have the right polarity.)
4: hot out to the grips
The package the relay came in had a diagram showing which pin was what.

You can still use a relay and keep the resistor.
The tusk kit come with part a relay or resistor? What other part do I need get to wire it just like you did? I already have a inline fuse that I can use.

[fritzcoinc]

Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper

What else you wanna talk about....women? Politics? The world economy? I actually like our little escape here.......and I even like talking about tires, gas tanks, oil, bike mods, and especially the ride pics Helps tide me over through are typically brutally unridable winters

Here's my vote:

[Brown Falcon]

[QUOTE=Ben99r1;20502191]

Originally Posted by bwalsh

I'll keep the switch on the lowest setting during the winter when not in use and still have the relay so it wont draw current when the key is off. Come late spring I'll turn it off. Two cycles a year should make it last awhile...I hope!



I am electrically challenged myself and I got it done thanks to ThumpnRed!
I still ran the wire(with fuse) from the battery to the relay. The relay has four pins,
1: hot from the battery
2: hot from a wire that is electrified (I ran this wire form the Speedo light wire)
3: a ground( I ran this from the biggest green wire in the dash. I can't remember what it went to. Just check it with a test light to make sure you have the right polarity.)
4: hot out to the grips
The package the relay came in had a diagram showing which pin was what.

You can still use a relay and keep the resistor.
The tusk kit come with part a relay or resistor? What other part do I need get to wire it just like you did? I already have a inline fuse that I can use.

The Tusk kit comes with a resistor, which will get very hot when you are using the low setting. You can put a turn signal flasher in place of the resistor and get the same effect without worrying about melting a hole in something.

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper
I noticed that the way the airbox is designed, the top right side slopes down some to allow air in under the seat, I believe thats the main source of air for the airbox.

Originally Posted by bwalsh

^^^This^^^

That is what I determined one day while messing with the wiring.

I highly recommend everybody take a few minutes with a flashlight and look under the seat from both sides, to see just how little actual air access is available to the airbox. Honda designed the seat to seal the airbox top off pretty well, its prolly partially to keep water out of the airbox, but I suspect the bigger reason is to keep noise down and meet regulations, same reason most all bikes, even dirt only, benefit so much from uncorking/derestricting. That very limited air access is nice and quiet for the law, and supplies the stock corked-up engine with just enough air to get by, but if you check it out you'll see there's NO room for more air when you start modding Thats why even Dave noticed an improvement with just drilling some holes.....every litttle bit helps with the xrl's set-up

Originally Posted by bwalsh

I don't do templates.

If you look close with the side covers off and the seat on the bike, you can see that that rib is actually part of the airbox noise reduction/sealing system. It seals the front of the airbox top off....I'm guessing to keep noise down and water out. The seats a tough sob, I highly doubt that little fin has anything to do with holding the seat together, it has tons of support all over. Too many guys have completely removed it without issues for it to be anything structurally important to the seat.....I think its more important to meeting sound regs.....and maybe some water protection

I left it alone because I wanted a bigger airflow increase than removing it was going to give me Unfortunately the front top of the airbox is filled with the wiring loom, so removing that rib would still have a limited effect on more air flow.
Honda really capped the airbox off well Thank you EPA

You know the U.S. ZX-10 is down by about 22hp strictly because of the EPA (easily corrected with an ecu reflash and some other basic derestricting tricks tho)....the cbr1000 is down well over 10....R1 about the same, and it just goes on. And look at how nuetered the xr650r was stock....it gained 10-12hp with some simple derestricting/opening up the airbox....thats HUGE on a single that was only rated at 45hp at the crank stock

I'm SO glad I never leave anything stock

[my6]

Fritz....You sir, have good taste.

[ONandOFF]

Originally Posted by Cumbacheech

I haven't done this yet... I wonder if the dremel is strong enough to get the job done...

Sure, you can use the Dremel. You should take your time with the Dremel though - don't work it too hard or you'll get it too hot inside and burn it up. It's strong enough if you take your time. The air drill will be faster and able to take a larger wheel wiht which it is easier to get a smooth job.

[ONandOFF]

Originally Posted by my6

Fritz....You sir, have good taste.

+1

[ONandOFF]

Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper

I noticed that the way the airbox is designed, the top right side slopes down some to allow air in under the seat, I believe thats the main source of air for the airbox.

I highly recommend everybody take a few minutes with a flashlight and look under the seat from both sides, to see just how little actual air access is available to the airbox. Honda designed the seat to seal the airbox top off pretty well, its prolly partially to keep water out of the airbox, but I suspect the bigger reason is to keep noise down and meet regulations, same reason most all bikes, even dirt only, benefit so much from uncorking/derestricting. That very limited air access is nice and quiet for the law, and supplies the stock corked-up engine with just enough air to get by, but if you check it out you'll see there's NO room for more air when you start modding Thats why even Dave noticed an improvement with just drilling some holes.....every litttle bit helps with the xrl's set-up

If you look close with the side covers off and the seat on the bike, you can see that that rib is actually part of the airbox noise reduction/sealing system. It seals the front of the airbox top off....I'm guessing to keep noise down and water out. The seats a tough sob, I highly doubt that little fin has anything to do with holding the seat together, it has tons of support all over. Too many guys have completely removed it without issues for it to be anything structurally important to the seat.....I think its more important to meeting sound regs.....and maybe some water protection

I left it alone because I wanted a bigger airflow increase than removing it was going to give me Unfortunately the front top of the airbox is filled with the wiring loom, so removing that rib would still have a limited effect on more air flow.
Honda really capped the airbox off well Thank you EPA

You know the U.S. ZX-10 is down by about 22hp strictly because of the EPA (easily corrected with an ecu reflash and some other basic derestricting tricks tho)....the cbr1000 is down well over 10....R1 about the same, and it just goes on. And look at how nuetered the xr650r was stock....it gained 10-12hp with some simple derestricting/opening up the airbox....thats HUGE on a single that was only rated at 45hp at the crank stock

I'm SO glad I never leave anything stock

I haven't personally looked into this. Perhaps now I'll be motivated to scrutinize it next time I get a chance.

Steve? Have you investigated this in detail? Your determination?

[bwalsh]

[QUOTE=Ben99r1;20502191]

Originally Posted by bwalsh

I'll keep the switch on the lowest setting during the winter when not in use and still have the relay so it wont draw current when the key is off. Come late spring I'll turn it off. Two cycles a year should make it last awhile...I hope!



I am electrically challenged myself and I got it done thanks to ThumpnRed!
I still ran the wire(with fuse) from the battery to the relay. The relay has four pins,
1: hot from the battery
2: hot from a wire that is electrified (I ran this wire form the Speedo light wire)
3: a ground( I ran this from the biggest green wire in the dash. I can't remember what it went to. Just check it with a test light to make sure you have the right polarity.)
4: hot out to the grips
The package the relay came in had a diagram showing which pin was what.

You can still use a relay and keep the resistor.
The tusk kit come with part a relay or resistor? What other part do I need get to wire it just like you did? I already have a inline fuse that I can use.

Originally Posted by fritzcoinc

Here's my vote:

I'll take door(pic) number one please!

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper

What else you wanna talk about....women? Politics? The world economy? I actually like our little escape here.......and I even like talking about tires, gas tanks, oil, bike mods, and especially the ride pics Helps tide me over through are typically brutally unridable winters

I am just in a bitchy mood I HATE cold weather...
Good gawd... no politics! If someone starts up about gun control or health care reform
The mangina gets sore when I cant ride... Too cold in the garage to even work on the bike

[bwalsh]

[QUOTE=Brown Falcon;20502293]

Originally Posted by Ben99r1

The Tusk kit comes with a resistor, which will get very hot when you are using the low setting. You can put a turn signal flasher in place of the resistor and get the same effect without worrying about melting a hole in something.

It is REAL easy to replace this with the signal flasher. Cut the two wires going into the resistor, attach a female connector to the two wires and plug them into the two prong flasher. Zip tie it in place, Done!

Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper

What else you wanna talk about....

What about this...





2013 Honda CRF450 Rally



Quote:

And while the racer looks like a solid rig, the greatest thing about the factory motorcycle is that its rally parts will be commercially available in kit form, much in the same way Honda has sold go fast bits through their race division, HRC.
"The pricing and distribution of the rally kit are still in the planning stages," American Honda rep Kevin Aschenbach told me over email. But whatever the cost (and the assumed non-legality of road use), how cool would it be to own a clone of a factory Dakar Rally race bike?!

http://motorcycles.about.com/b/2012/...rally-bike.htm

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/fi..._crf450_rally/

I wonder if you could slap a dual sport kit on that puppy from the dealer and ? One of those and a Giant loop bag and you'd be good to go...anywhere!

Did I miss the discussion about this or are all you FF's slacking? I'd damn near give my right arm and left testicle for that bike!