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Old 01-26-2013, 05:12 PM   #52426
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
It doubles as a pillow!


Indeed, it's called "pillow packing," which is the highest quality, longest lasting, silencer packing material. The long fibers in this packing are more resistant to getting broken down by exhaust gases, and being blown out the exhaust. The fibers are woven into a pillow to facilitate re-packing. Here's an instructional video showing how to repack a muffler using the Lexx MXe Premium Silencer Packing.



Spud
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:14 PM   #52427
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Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Kudos on encouraging your wife to shoot. It helps when they understand the intricacies of what we enjoy. Just hope you don't make her overly-mad and she flies off the handle too quickly!
Yep she wanted to learn how to shoot.....she was an eager learner and picked it up quick....maybe a little too quick? And yes I def wouldn't want her drawing a bead down on me

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Safety and performance are paramount!
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:49 PM   #52428
AndyCBR
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Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Yup.still worth doing......it will seat in faster/seal better.......

B

Thanks guys made 2 passes with fine compound and it did mate the new surfaces a little better.

Best,
Andy
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:50 PM   #52429
Spud Rider
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Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
...I'm still trying to come up with a configuration on the tail rack that I like. I have one of those top boxes from J.C. Whitney. It's the large one and it just seems too big for being back there. But I kind of like the quick attache plate that it uses. I adapted a milk crate for using the the plate so I could have something to throw things in we running errands around town...
I think the way you attach the milk crate to the J.C. Whitney mounting plate is ingenious.



I like my J.C. Whitney Travel Trunk very much. I frequently attach this trunk to my bike when I go shopping for groceries; it holds a lot of stuff.



In the past I also used this travel trunk when taking 3-4 day trips.





However, after needing to weld a small crack in my subframe, I now travel more lightly. Therefore, I now use the travel trunk only while running errands around town.

If you are going to carry heavier loads on the rear of the bike, I suggest you consider getting a stronger luggage rack which attaches to the seat strap bolts. I fractured a luggage rack similar to yours while riding with my J.C. Whitney Travel Trunk off road.



I now have a Manracks Super Duty rack attached to my XR650L.



Spud
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:03 PM   #52430
katbeanz
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Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
Anyway, just some more ideas on setting up your bike
Nice work!
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:19 PM   #52431
bwalsh
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~snipped unnecessary crap~

I'm finally getting around to getting the 04 running. One of the suspected parts was the engine cut off switch. I had checked it with a multi-meter numerous times and it had checked out. I had taken it apart to clean more than once...as much as I could figure out how to...and sprayed massive amount of brake cleaner into the cut off switch. I couldn't figure out how to get those four "catches" undone without braking the switch and at around $60 for the switch I didn't want to break a part I wasn't positive was the culprit.


Today I swapped out the switch from my 08 and Wha la, it started each and every time, unlike the original that only fired occasionally.

So I figured I'd give it another shot at cleaning it and if it broke, screw it, I'll buy a new one. I also figured I'd take pics so anyone else wanting to take apart their switch, and is as adept at taking apart little plastic pieces as I am(), could see how it's done. Lets get started...


First off, when I say switch I mean just the on, off switch, not the starter button. Secondly, If I say pry open, I mean "gently" pry open!

Take it off the bike, two screws holding it to the handlebars and the one red electrical plug behind the headlight.

Now to give yourself a little more wiggle room, cut the zip tie holding the wires to the plastic tab on the side of the housing and remove the screw in the inside bottom that holds a plastic cover over the started button. This screw.



Notice the pin on the right that goes into a hole on the stock handlebars? The PO of my 08 must not have noticed this as it's smashed from tightening it to the CR highbends. I have since trimmed it off.

On the top piece of the housing are the four catches I mentioned earlier. To pry the sides open to get by the catches I used one small screwdriver in the slot on the top side of the pic below to spread the outside of the housing and one large screwdriver one on the bottom side to spread and gently pry up on the switch unit. It took a few minutes but it finally popped out!
The vertical pieces are the ones holding this piece to the outer shell. Take note of the bottom horizontal piece.



Two of the four catches...


Here's a better pic of what I called the bottom horizontal piece a couple of pics back.



Next, don't do like I did and break a tab off the last piece to remove.
Remember the lower horizontal piece? That has two tabs. Just pry open the two vertical pieces like this.(This is upside down from the last pic) Notice how the vertical pieces are spread out?





And pull it apart. These two rectangular slots are the two holes for the tabs.



Now you should have a pile of pieces that looks like this, minus the broken tab, lower right.



I took some Q tips and Alcohol and cleaned all the pieces real good with special attention payed to the terminals. I cleaned them better than whats shown.



Notice the broken tab in the next pic.



Notice the discoloration on the terminals in the previous pic? Clean them real good! I"d say that was a big part of my starting woes...

This is the piece the rocker pivots on.



New project!



Locktite Superglue to the rescue!



Beer intermission...

Now get some Dielectric grease.



and put some on the two terminals and the piece on the rocker.



One thing you'd surly figure out quickly but since I'm here...the rocker goes onto the housing the opposite of what it looks like it should. The "off" side goes into the narrow slot and vise-verse.





As they say in the owners manual, installation is in the reverse order of removal.
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bwalsh screwed with this post 03-21-2013 at 12:29 PM
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:34 PM   #52432
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
...So I figured I'd give it another shot at cleaning it and if it broke, screw it, I'll buy a new one. I also figured I'd take pics so anyone else wanting to take apart their switch, and is as adept at taking apart little plastic pieces as I am(), could see how it's done...
Thanks for taking the time to capture photographs and document the repair process!

Spud
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:36 PM   #52433
bwalsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
The long fibers in this packing are more resistant to getting broken down by exhaust gases, and being blown out the exhaust.
That leads to another question. How does having a spark arrestor affect these pieces of packing. I'd assume they can't escape thru the arrestor and would eventually plug up the outlet.?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I think the way you attach the milk crate to the J.C. Whitney mounting plate is ingenious.




However, after needing to weld a small crack in my subframe, I now travel more lightly.
JWhitmore44, That's pretty trick! There's going to be a LOT of jealous KLR owners.

I mostly carry extra layers of clothing in my top box(the smaller one of the two) and I don't see it causing a problem in regards to the sub frame. The problem I do see with it is...it is getting bounced around to the point I think it is wallowing out the attachment points on the box. I expect to see it go flying off on a dirt road one of these days.
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:55 PM   #52434
Walterxr650l
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Originally Posted by WMD View Post
Thanks guys. I don't have a tester but a buddy that does is coming over to rescue me tomorrow.
I have kept a test light similar to this in my tool kit, for oh at least the last couple of decades. It is simple rugged and reliable. For figuring out which wire does what it is easier to use than a DMM. So far for field electrical trouble shooting it has always been sufficient. If it ever isn't, I probably wouldn't be able to do a field repair anyway. Mine is a MAC brand and is the most durable probe I have seen. You can get a cheaper one at most auto parts stores, Wal-mart or similar store.



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Old 01-26-2013, 08:02 PM   #52435
beechum1
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I have two of these

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html



and two sets of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch...ads-66717.html



An electrical tester is something that I use very often, and without it, work simply doesn't get done. I don't require such precision that I need a 100$ tester, and when you spend 10$, you can sort electrical problems like this right away and not have to wait for someone else.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:26 PM   #52436
JWhitmore44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterxr650l View Post
I have kept a test light similar to this in my tool kit, for oh at least the last couple of decades. It is simple rugged and reliable. For figuring out which wire does what it is easier to use than a DMM. So far for field electrical trouble shooting it has always been sufficient. If it ever isn't, I probably wouldn't be able to do a field repair anyway. Mine is a MAC brand and is the most durable probe I have seen. You can get a cheaper one at most auto parts stores, Wal-mart or similar store.



Walter

Exactly, usually all you want to know is if you have power where you should have or not. The test light works great for that. I use a meter a lot in the garage.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:29 PM   #52437
JWhitmore44
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Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
JWhitmore44, That's pretty trick! There's going to be a LOT of jealous KLR owners.

I mostly carry extra layers of clothing in my top box(the smaller one of the two) and I don't see it causing a problem in regards to the sub frame. The problem I do see with it is...it is getting bounced around to the point I think it is wallowing out the attachment points on the box. I expect to see it go flying off on a dirt road one of these days.
Thanks, those KLR guys can eat their hearts out

I don't know how long those top boxes will last on rough terrain. Looks like Spud has tested his out pretty well though.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:37 PM   #52438
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That's why I opted for the dust/water-proof outdoor case for mine. Cost a bit more ($130), but this thing won't let me down!

I know, it's big, but not any bigger than that JCwhitney box. Currently working on a quick-disconnect so I can take it off when I hit the trails. It's awesome for my school books, running to the store, dry place to keep my helmet during class, etc.



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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:17 PM   #52439
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Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
Wow! Awesome photo!
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:29 PM   #52440
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
That leads to another question. How does having a spark arrestor affect these pieces of packing. I'd assume they can't escape thru the arrestor and would eventually plug up the outlet.? ...
All my mufflers have turbine core, spark arrestors, including the stock muffler on my XR650L. This type of spark arrestor doesn't employ a wire screen. Therefore, I can't answer your question from personal experience.

If you don't periodically need to clean the spark arrestor screen, then the particles are being pulverized small enough to pass through the screen.

Spud
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