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Old 01-31-2013, 02:18 AM   #52681
Spud Rider
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What ever happened to Danny VanPelt? I hope he is well. We never hear from him anymore.

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Old 01-31-2013, 02:39 AM   #52682
Bell driver
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I am so much interested in his oil flow sensor thingy.
Did he ever mention anywhere who the manufacturer of that sensor is?

I want it!
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:35 AM   #52683
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bell driver View Post
I am so much interested in his oil flow sensor thingy.
Did he ever mention anywhere who the manufacturer of that sensor is?

I want it!
Here's a link to his sensor thread over at Thumpertalk. If he ever mentioned the manufacturer of the sensor, he probably did so in that thread.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/768...or-for-xr650l/

I haven't read that thread in a while, and I don't remember if he gave any details regarding the source of the sensor itself. He hooked the sensor up to an LED light on his dashboard, as shown in the following video. Danny does good work.



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Old 01-31-2013, 05:54 AM   #52684
JWhitmore44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helipilot View Post
OK...2004 XR650L...Carburetor has had the Dave's mod and was running very well...Son jumps on it, cranks it up and immediately begins to rev the engine like it was his CBR 600. Have told him over and over to not rev the 650 since it is a thumper. I had just finished a 150 mile DS ride and the bike was purring. It now does not want to run more than 5 seconds after being started without popping like it is starving for gas. I have removed the carb, cleaned it, blown it out and readjusted it (2 1/4 turns) three times. It starts on the first push of the button and runs smoothly for about 5 - 10 seconds and then starts the popping again. New plug, New CDI, Tank removed and emptied, Tank Filter removed (clean), Fuel Valve removed, disassembled and cleaned, UNI air filter removed, cleaned and reinstalled, Valves checked, Timing checked, my next stop is the local Honda shop and maybe a new carb. At $200 +++ that is not my ideal option.

Question for the Collective: After removing the AIR CUT VALVE SET and cleaning it, I notice a white soft "Bubble" at the bottom of the hole where the air cut valve inserts into the carb body. It appears to be a plastic ball and appears to be soft. Is this normal for this passage or is it an anomaly ? Didn't want to use the pick set to try to remove it since it appears from the fiche drawings it not a replaceable part. Your thoughts please.

Popping during deceleration can often indicate a lean condition. You pulled the carb apart and cleaned it but it still might be worth pulling the idle jet and running a small piece of wire (like a copper strand) through it. It could be something was stirred up and logged in there during the high rev.

But, I would thing that popping when idling may be more of an indication of ignition. The other thing I would check is the wiring connections to the coil. The vibration from the high rev may have caused a poor connection some where along that circuit. Check for wire chaffing also, may have had nothing to do with the high rev.

Do you ever get a back fire or pop while starting? that could indicate a too rich condition. Well that and a timing issue :)
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:23 AM   #52685
mrfixit54016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helipilot View Post
OK...2004 XR650L...Carburetor has had the Dave's mod and was running very well...Son jumps on it, cranks it up and immediately begins to rev the engine like it was his CBR 600. Have told him over and over to not rev the 650 since it is a thumper. I had just finished a 150 mile DS ride and the bike was purring. It now does not want to run more than 5 seconds after being started without popping like it is starving for gas. I have removed the carb, cleaned it, blown it out and readjusted it (2 1/4 turns) three times. It starts on the first push of the button and runs smoothly for about 5 - 10 seconds and then starts the popping again. New plug, New CDI, Tank removed and emptied, Tank Filter removed (clean), Fuel Valve removed, disassembled and cleaned, UNI air filter removed, cleaned and reinstalled, Valves checked, Timing checked, my next stop is the local Honda shop and maybe a new carb. At $200 +++ that is not my ideal option.

Question for the Collective: After removing the AIR CUT VALVE SET and cleaning it, I notice a white soft "Bubble" at the bottom of the hole where the air cut valve inserts into the carb body. It appears to be a plastic ball and appears to be soft. Is this normal for this passage or is it an anomaly ? Didn't want to use the pick set to try to remove it since it appears from the fiche drawings it not a replaceable part. Your thoughts please.

When you clean the carb, are you actually removing the pilot jet and inspecting it for debris? Usually with an idle problem that comes on suddenly, that is the first place I look.

Good Luck and keep us posted.
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Old 01-31-2013, 06:38 AM   #52686
mendoteach
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I have had a few pilots clog on me before. I carry one of these:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...-Wire-Set.aspx

Available from Amazon, ebay, MSST and most of the other usual suspects.
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:16 AM   #52687
mrfixit54016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mendoteach View Post
I have had a few pilots clog on me before. I carry one of these:

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...-Wire-Set.aspx

Available from Amazon, ebay, MSST and most of the other usual suspects.
I will second that. That is the exact same tool I have used for years!
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:20 AM   #52688
ONandOFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walterxr650l View Post
I'm not an expert, but from what I understand of how a carb works, I don't see how revving out the engine could damage the carb. I'm wondering if he over revved the engine and damaged the valves.

Walter
I'm pretty sure the CDI unit has a rev limiter built in, but anything's possible. I also can't see how revving could affect the carb, but perhaps it's coincidental. I never noticed any white plastic ball-looking anything inside the carb behind the adjustment screw. If I did, I'd be inclined to pick it out, though. Might be some residue that got caught there. Perhaps hit it with some carb cleaner, then give it a good blast with high pressure compressed air, from the pilot jet hole and the hole in the throat by the throttle plate. It should be clean and clear through there!
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:33 AM   #52689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bell driver View Post
I am so much interested in his oil flow sensor thingy.
Did he ever mention anywhere who the manufacturer of that sensor is?

I want it!
Are you interested in measuring the quantity of oil flow, or simply verifying that oil pressure is present? Ashcroft makes some flow sensors that put out pulses proportional to flow. You'd need a tach chip to convert that to an analog voltage which you could then scale and calibrate to indicate flow rate on a gauge. If that's what you're interested in, I can point you to some aircraft systems I've designed. But if you just want to check for the presence of oil pressure for an indicator light, you can do that much cheaper using an automotive oil pressure sender designed to operate the ubiquitous "idiot light" wired to a light and screwed into a tee fitted into the line feeding oil to the head.
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 01-31-2013, 08:38 AM   #52690
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The pressure there is almost nothing. It wont work. It needs to be a flow sensor , not pressure.
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:11 AM   #52691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joexr View Post
The pressure there is almost nothing. It wont work. It needs to be a flow sensor , not pressure.
"It won't work" is a rather presumptuous claim, my friend!

Define "almost nothing"
Is there a specification, and/or has someone reported the results of a measurement?

Pressure is requisite for flow. Some additional pressure is requisite to operate a flow sensor.

Data is required. Knowing the operating pressure at that point, one can specify a sensor which will trip at some specified point below said operating pressure, completing the circuit to a light.
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:21 AM   #52692
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Have you ever had your rocker box off? Look at the flowpath thru the head. You can have flow without pressure. Pressure is only from restriction. No restriction , no pressure. Stick the end of a gauge in a garden hose loosely , no pressure. Now seal it to the hose and you have pressure. Its all simple physics.
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:05 AM   #52693
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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I haven't read that thread in a while, and I don't remember if he gave any details regarding the source of the sensor itself.
Read all threads, seen the vids. Searched ALL of the www, to no avail.
It seems to be a highly guarded friggin' secret.

@onandoff
In this case you want flow, not pressure, because there' pretty much none. Flow or no flow, that's the question...
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Old 01-31-2013, 10:23 AM   #52694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joexr View Post
...You can have flow without pressure. Pressure is only from restriction. No restriction , no pressure. ... Its all simple physics.
Interesting concept!
Guess I'd better hit the books, eh?
This might be a good place to start...
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:01 AM   #52695
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Consider Newton's laws of motion. Anything including the oil only moves as a result of a force. Pressure is force per unit area. No pressure = no flow. If there's anything 'simple' in the physics...

Using your example of a garden hose running water, measure the pressure inside the hose near the open end, and that pressure will be near atmospheric, somewhat greater. Now measure the pressure inside the hose near the faucet end and that pressure will be somewhat near (yet less than, how much depending on internal piping) the incoming static pressure to the facility. The difference in pressure (or pressure drop) between the two ends of the hose is what moves the water through the hose. The fluid only moves from a point of higher pressure to a point of lower pressure.
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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