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Old 02-04-2013, 04:49 PM   #53101
ADV BUM
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
I'll definitely report on them once I get them on.



Sounds like it should be a good tire for me! Hopefully.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...41867550,d.b2I

This is my favorite front tire. I was buying them new off ebay. A package of two for $70.0 delivered. The tread pattern is fantastic. They last a long time. The already have a stiff carcass, but when teamed up with tubliss and ran at low pressure they are great. I was also fortunate to buy a couple MOUSE BIB inserts cheap that are designed for wide tire. I will be setting an offroad front up with the BIB. The wide tire up front is great. Only downside is that they are not DOT. Some people get there under garments in a wad if you are not running all DOT on your DS.
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:57 PM   #53102
Mossy-Back
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Got my muffler turn-down finished up. It works better than I expected. The XR600R muffler with the insert removed has about a 1-7/8" outlet. I used the same size turndown on the end cap, so the turndown is straight through 1-7/8".

At idle and low speeds it is somewhat quieter. Definitely not as harsh sounding. But it is MUCH quieter to me while riding at higher speeds (about 25 or so).

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Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:01 PM   #53103
JWhitmore44
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Location: NW Kansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben99r1 View Post
I have a rear right blinker that does not light up or flash when I engage it. I replaced the bulb and it still does not light up or flash. I put a 12 volt light tester and it does turn on when it makes contact with the bulb housing. I also checked where the wires connect to the main harness under the seat. It does get power to the connection. My front rt blinker does get bright but it does not flash. I am thinking its the switch or the flash relay. Anywhere else you guys might think it could be? I did fall in some muddy water last week. It was the same side of the switch. Just in case that if that matters.

Some what confused about the comment on the test light lighting when it contacts the bulb "housing". If you are talking about the metal part of the bulb socket causes your test light to light when you touch it, then something is wrong. The metal housing part of the bulb socket should be the ground. Inside at the bottom of the socket you should see a copper piece that resembles a nail head (if it's a two filament set up you will see two "nail heads). With alligator connector of you test light clipped to something metal on your bike touching the contact (that looks like a nail head) should cause the test light to blink (assuming the blinker switch is on) just like a bulb. If you have power at the connector under the seat, and possible in the bulb socket, then it's not the switch.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:07 PM   #53104
JWhitmore44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
The tubliss creates a very stiff sidewall that will help protect the rim.

Are you talking about the bead being stiff? The sidewall being stiff, I would think, will be a combination of the tires sidewall material and how much air you have in the tire. I could see where only running 2 to 5 pounds in the tire would give it a lot of sidewall cushioning to prevent sharp hits against the wheel. I can kind of see where if you had a solid locking rim bead that you would support the rim a little better, possible.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:13 PM   #53105
ADV BUM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
Are you talking about the bead being stiff? The sidewall being stiff, I would think, will be a combination of the tires sidewall material and how much air you have in the tire. I could see where only running 2 to 5 pounds in the tire would give it a lot of sidewall cushioning to prevent sharp hits against the wheel. I can kind of see where if you had a solid locking rim bead that you would support the rim a little better, possible.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...ln6v0myvDXSELw

One of those things you would have to try for yourself.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:34 PM   #53106
mhking
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need help with blinkers

Hey everyone I found these blinkers the other day and thought they would make great blinkers to mount in my hand guards but whenever I hook them up to be blinker wires they wont flash, my blinkers just stays on like a bulbs burnt out. I know they are just accent lights but there has to be a way to be a way to bypass the future that stops them from blinking if a bulb is out. Any help would be great since I had to be an idiot and just cut my old blinkers so Im blinker free until I figured this out.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...ght-module/28/
I found this on their site to and was wondering if I could use this instead of my turn signal relay.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...odule/196/846/
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:37 PM   #53107
JWhitmore44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...ln6v0myvDXSELw

One of those things you would have to try for yourself.
Good link, and it had the answer I was looking for
"Rim Protection
TUbliss protects the rim from dings and dents by holding the tire firmly and making the sidewalls stay upright and absorb the full impact, unlike bending and deflection of conventional tubes."

I wouldn't mind trying the setup. It always sounded like a good idea to me.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:40 PM   #53108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhking View Post
Hey everyone I found these blinkers the other day and thought they would make great blinkers to mount in my hand guards but whenever I hook them up to be blinker wires they won’t flash, my blinkers just stays on like a bulbs burnt out. I know they are just accent lights but there has to be a way to be a way to bypass the future that stops them from blinking if a bulb is out. Any help would be great since I had to be an idiot and just cut my old blinkers so I’m blinker free until I figured this out.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...ght-module/28/
I found this on their site to and was wondering if I could use this instead of my turn signal relay.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...odule/196/846/

You will probably need an electronic flasher, basically a flasher made for LED style trun signals.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/searc...ed%20flashers/

neat idea
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:42 PM   #53109
mhking
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Quote:
You will probably need an electronic flasher, basically a flasher made for LED style trun signals
o ok so i cant just hardwire them in. that sucks.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:49 PM   #53110
JWhitmore44
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Originally Posted by mhking View Post
o ok so i cant just hardwire them in. that sucks.
Are you leaving the stock front turn signals wired in? If so then I would have thought it would have worked. If not, you'll need the flasher.
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Old 02-04-2013, 06:53 PM   #53111
mhking
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
Are you leaving the stock front turn signals wired in? If so then I would have thought it would have worked. If not, you'll need the flasher.
well i left the rear turn signal and just cut the front wires but everything else is stock so i guess ill have to buy the flasher.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:00 PM   #53112
Ben99r1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Got my muffler turn-down finished up. It works better than I expected. The XR600R muffler with the insert removed has about a 1-7/8" outlet. I used the same size turndown on the end cap, so the turndown is straight through 1-7/8".

At idle and low speeds it is somewhat quieter. Definitely not as harsh sounding. But it is MUCH quieter to me while riding at higher speeds (about 25 or so).

I like it. You should make me one. We can trade for the 7/8 bar riders that I was telling you about. PM and let me know
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:05 PM   #53113
Ben99r1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
Some what confused about the comment on the test light lighting when it contacts the bulb "housing". If you are talking about the metal part of the bulb socket causes your test light to light when you touch it, then something is wrong. The metal housing part of the bulb socket should be the ground. Inside at the bottom of the socket you should see a copper piece that resembles a nail head (if it's a two filament set up you will see two "nail heads). With alligator connector of you test light clipped to something metal on your bike touching the contact (that looks like a nail head) should cause the test light to blink (assuming the blinker switch is on) just like a bulb. If you have power at the connector under the seat, and possible in the bulb socket, then it's not the switch.
It lights up anywhere where it touches metal. So would it be safe to say that the ground wire being cut or disconnected to that bulb would cause that to happen?
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:20 PM   #53114
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost on Row 1 View Post
Don't worry about losing any of your suspensions quality. Setting the sag is what gives the bike proper front to rear balance. When you have less than recommended sag you will have more weight toward the front of the bike, could be the cause of some front end wander on dirt roads. To much sag will have too little weight on the front and will push in a corner. Just remember that static sag and race sag are different. Set your race sag, 4 " with you in gear standing on the pegs with some one holding the bars. The other measurement is with the bike on a crate or stand with the rear wheel in the air. When you race sag is correct, the static sag will be also, IF your spring weight is. It does not matter what you set first, race or static, if the spring is wrong then so will be one of the sags.
Kinda ripping through this assuming you know some of it, be glad to help if not. This stuff is easy to do and really makes your bike handle as well as it can.

My legs are way shorter than I think.
I'm 6'3" and complaining about the height of an xrl....I guess that just tells you how tall these bikes really are

Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
It's worth checking. Don't forget, the static sag is measured as the vertical difference between the suspension fully extended, and where it rests with you sitting completely on it, feet on pegs. Kinda challenging without a helper. It should be a tad under four inches, or about 10cm. Needn't be perfectly on, just close. And it's possible there's a more optimal number for when you have a particular lowering link on, I don't know. Here's a very thorough description of how to proceed..
Thanks...I'll take the advice you guys have offered, and the link, and get on setting up my sag
Thats what I love about this place...always experienced info on the xrl at my fingertips.......I think I'm getting spoiled

Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
The stock height is like sitting in the nose bleed section of a stadium. It's up there...
I read somewhere that the xrl had one of the tallest seat heights of any stock bike made......and I believe it. I've owned many dirt bikes, and my xrl lowered fits me like my true mx'ers did stock height
I think their comes a point of possibly being too high? Especially with an oversize tank on the xrl, it really carries the weight high .......but I can ride over anything
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:26 PM   #53115
mendoteach
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Location: Mendocino, NorCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
I used to have many problems with flats. I am a large person and like to ride this bike hard. I then found tubliss. Not one issue since.

A tire I like for the rear is the MOTOZ Dot.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...lJYdFGT1RKeaRw


I am going to try the Tubliss system after I get some experience with them on my smoker. I have a friend who swears by them. My only worries are how they hold up to the heat put in the tires by the twisties. Hmmm....
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