ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 02-04-2013, 09:27 PM   #53131
fritzcoinc
Enjoying my last V8
 
fritzcoinc's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Cypress, Tx
Oddometer: 6,674
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Got my muffler turn-down finished up. It works better than I expected. The XR600R muffler with the insert removed has about a 1-7/8" outlet. I used the same size turndown on the end cap, so the turndown is straight through 1-7/8".

At idle and low speeds it is somewhat quieter. Definitely not as harsh sounding. But it is MUCH quieter to me while riding at higher speeds (about 25 or so).

I have just one word for ya there B Falcon, CHROME
Serriously, looks good. I need something like that. My rear fender and plate are some what chared from the fire breathing, lean is mean, monster 96 I ride.
__________________
Regards
Fritzcoinc
96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
fritzcoinc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 09:34 PM   #53132
fritzcoinc
Enjoying my last V8
 
fritzcoinc's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Cypress, Tx
Oddometer: 6,674
Speaking of tires

Michlen Desert Racer. Stellar so far, unreal grip, smooth and quite on the road.

PS: The karoo sucks!! Ear popping sucks. Outer space vacum sucks. I've been told I ride like a old lady and I only got 2700 miles! The unicross on the other hand was the best front I ever had. Good grip on all sorts of surfaces, very good life, but very noisey on the road.

__________________
Regards
Fritzcoinc
96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
fritzcoinc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 09:51 PM   #53133
RZRob
Beastly Adventurer
 
RZRob's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Location: Anaheim Hills, CA
Oddometer: 1,450
When in Doubt, Check the Ground

So I've been working on this XRL, doing a little this and a little that and in the process needed to unplug a few connectors. Whenever I work around electrical I always disconnect the battery. Well, when I got done doing what I needed to, I had no spark. I walked the track, reviewed all the plugs I'd disconnected and everything seemed fine. Heck, the motor turned over and everything.

Long story short, it was the 6mm ground screw connection under the seat. I found it quickly, but I got a little nervous along the way...

RZ Rob
RZRob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 10:02 PM   #53134
Mossy-Back
Wet-Sider
 
Mossy-Back's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Corvallis, OR
Oddometer: 1,553
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
Link please!
Rear:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Rear-Tire.aspx

Front:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ront-Tire.aspx
__________________
Evan
2013 Husqvarna Strada
'93 XR650L (Gone, but missed)
Ooh-Rah! Once a Marine, always a Marine!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
Mossy-Back is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 10:11 PM   #53135
Mossy-Back
Wet-Sider
 
Mossy-Back's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Corvallis, OR
Oddometer: 1,553
Quote:
Originally Posted by RZRob View Post
So I've been working on this XRL, doing a little this and a little that and in the process needed to unplug a few connectors. Whenever I work around electrical I always disconnect the battery. Well, when I got done doing what I needed to, I had no spark. I walked the track, reviewed all the plugs I'd disconnected and everything seemed fine. Heck, the motor turned over and everything.

Long story short, it was the 6mm ground screw connection under the seat. I found it quickly, but I got a little nervous along the way...

RZ Rob
Ah yes, I had that same problem just a week or two after I bought mine. Out of nowhere all the electrical just DIED! I was seriously freaking out! Stupid ground screw...
__________________
Evan
2013 Husqvarna Strada
'93 XR650L (Gone, but missed)
Ooh-Rah! Once a Marine, always a Marine!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
Mossy-Back is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 10:12 PM   #53136
Mossy-Back
Wet-Sider
 
Mossy-Back's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Corvallis, OR
Oddometer: 1,553
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
I have just one word for ya there B Falcon, CHROME
Serriously, looks good. I need something like that. My rear fender and plate are some what chared from the fire breathing, lean is mean, monster 96 I ride.
If I chrome that thing it'll just make the rest of the bike look like an even bigger turd than it does already!
__________________
Evan
2013 Husqvarna Strada
'93 XR650L (Gone, but missed)
Ooh-Rah! Once a Marine, always a Marine!
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
Mossy-Back is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 10:29 PM   #53137
ThumpnRed
Pig Wrangler
 
ThumpnRed's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Eye Duh Hoe
Oddometer: 2,478
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Michlen Desert Racer. Stellar so far, unreal grip, smooth and quite on the road.

PS: The karoo sucks!! Ear popping sucks. Outer space vacum sucks. I've been told I ride like a old lady and I only got 2700 miles! The unicross on the other hand was the best front I ever had. Good grip on all sorts of surfaces, very good life, but very noisey on the road.

So... how do you really feel about the Karoo? No sugar coating it... Don't worry, I'm a big boy
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
ThumpnRed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2013, 11:03 PM   #53138
bwalsh
Beastly Adventurer
 
bwalsh's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Hell town
Oddometer: 10,921
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
I've been told I ride like a old lady and I only got 2700 miles!
That tire has another 500 miles on it!

Thank you sir!
__________________
2004 XR650L / 2001 R1150GS
NWVA TAG NWVA TAG MAP RTE THREAD & IN LIST



bwalsh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 12:01 AM   #53139
Ben99r1
Beastly Adventurer
 
Ben99r1's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Pomona, Calif.
Oddometer: 3,004
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
Some what confused about the comment on the test light lighting when it contacts the bulb "housing". If you are talking about the metal part of the bulb socket causes your test light to light when you touch it, then something is wrong. The metal housing part of the bulb socket should be the ground. Inside at the bottom of the socket you should see a copper piece that resembles a nail head (if it's a two filament set up you will see two "nail heads). With alligator connector of you test light clipped to something metal on your bike touching the contact (that looks like a nail head) should cause the test light to blink (assuming the blinker switch is on) just like a bulb. If you have power at the connector under the seat, and possible in the bulb socket, then it's not the switch.
Its the section of the wires that run from the blinker to the harness. I unplugged the wires under the seat. Then I just plugged a spare blinker directly into the harness. Well that was it the blinker worked. Tomorrow ill head to radion shack and get some wire and male end connections. Thanks for the help and advice guys.
Ben99r1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 03:37 AM   #53140
Barron
M0DAH0LIC
 
Barron's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
Oddometer: 2,334
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben99r1 View Post
Its the section of the wires that run from the blinker to the harness. I unplugged the wires under the seat. Then I just plugged a spare blinker directly into the harness. Well that was it the blinker worked. Tomorrow ill head to radion shack and get some wire and male end connections. Thanks for the help and advice guys.
Hey man, before you do any cutting or soldering, get some electrical contact cleaner and blow out the malfunctioning blinker. These things are really simple contraptions and if you are getting power at all points inside the blinker there is probably some water or corrosion making the contact.

FWIW, I learned a tip here that I am happy to pass along- DIELECTRIC GREASE

If you get the pressurized can (at any auto zone, advance auto or the like) it's even easier, just fill up your electrical connectors with the stuff, put it into your light sockets...

It will arrest or prevent corrosion in the connectors and sockets. When I rebuilt my bike I filled EVER connector with the stuff as I put it back together.

-Barron
__________________
1996 XR650L with a couple mods
If everyone brewed beer there would be no war.
Barron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 03:44 AM   #53141
Barron
M0DAH0LIC
 
Barron's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
Oddometer: 2,334
[QUOTE=mhking;20651626]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
You also need to remove the bulb from the turn signal indicator. Try removing this bulb before you go any further.

Spud [/QUOTE
ok ill give that a shot. i appreciate everyone for their advice.
I had a similar issue when I went to all around LED "bulbs" for the OEM sockets made by superbright LEDs. If pulling the light bulb fixes the issue but you want to still use the bulb to remind you that you left the damn thing on there is a way around it, and it's easy. Spud has a great simple picture of the diode you will need to install, it's called a kuryakyn or kevorkian, or kardashian or something like that...

-Barron
__________________
1996 XR650L with a couple mods
If everyone brewed beer there would be no war.
Barron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 04:13 AM   #53142
Barron
M0DAH0LIC
 
Barron's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
Oddometer: 2,334
Quote:
Originally Posted by mendoteach View Post
I am going to try the Tubliss system after I get some experience with them on my smoker. I have a friend who swears by them. My only worries are how they hold up to the heat put in the tires by the twisties. Hmmm....
Since they don't have a tube they actually heat up less while (claiming) reducing rotational mass. I've had mine on for thousands of miles and love them. I mainly ride road, but I'm trying to fix that.

The number one thing I don't like about installing them is having to drill a hole in the rime for the second valve stem.

-Barron
__________________
1996 XR650L with a couple mods
If everyone brewed beer there would be no war.
Barron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 06:28 AM   #53143
ONandOFF
-ROAD-
 
ONandOFF's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Shenandoah Valley riding wonderland
Oddometer: 5,567
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
Yes on the cracking of rims. Tubliss is something that some people love, and some dont. The tubliss system sits in the well of the rim and inflates. It forces the sides of the tire against the rim creating an air tight seal also acting like a full rim rimlock. There is a mechanical rimlock built in if the tube should fail. The tubliss creates a very stiff sidewall that will help protect the rim. You can now run the outer air space/tire pressure very low that in turn provides great traction. Riding in the desert you will always hit that rock that is just below the sand. These are what would usually cause my pinch flats and cracked rims.

I used the 606's when first riding. Was not impressed. Changed to the MT21's. They were OK, but both had chunking/ lug loss issues. I am now on the MOTOZ.
Cool! Is this the site where you always buy them (phatperformanceparts)? I'm not finding Motoz brand on MSS nor RMATV, where I have accounts. I prefer to limit the sites I deal with...
I will definintely try to remember to look into this Tubliss system before my next change. If it can allow me to run lower pressures while simultaneously preventing me from breaking more rims, and it doesn't break the bank in the process... I'm in!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
This is my favorite front tire.
[URL="http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/29/391/14663/ITEM/Michelin-Starcross-HP4-Hard-Front-Tire.aspx[/URL]

I was buying them new off ebay. A package of two for $70.0 delivered. The tread pattern is fantastic. They last a long time. The already have a stiff carcass, but when teamed up with tubliss and ran at low pressure they are great. I was also fortunate to buy a couple MOUSE BIB inserts cheap that are designed for wide tire. I will be setting an offroad front up with the BIB. The wide tire up front is great. Only downside is that they are not DOT. Some people get there under garments in a wad if you are not running all DOT on your DS.
Hey you BUM! Now, it costs more than that for one tire, at MSS.
If you still have the eBay connection, please feel free to post it or PM it to me.
About DOT: you are right about some people - those people being the inspectors and the police. Here in Virginia, we are required to run DOT tires and to get annual safety inspections. Personally, I am not adverse to non-DOT tires, and have run them on occasion between inspections. They have performed better on the trail, plus I only use the pavement to get to/from the trails around here. I haven't experienced adverse handling characteristics from non-DOT tires on the pavement, and I like to honk it on the pavement, too.
__________________
Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)

ONandOFF screwed with this post 02-05-2013 at 06:47 AM
ONandOFF is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 06:45 AM   #53144
ONandOFF
-ROAD-
 
ONandOFF's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Shenandoah Valley riding wonderland
Oddometer: 5,567
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
Yes on the cracking of rims. Tubliss is something that some people love, and some dont. The tubliss system sits in the well of the rim and inflates. It forces the sides of the tire against the rim creating an air tight seal also acting like a full rim rimlock. There is a mechanical rimlock built in if the tube should fail. The tubliss creates a very stiff sidewall that will help protect the rim. You can now run the outer air space/tire pressure very low that in turn provides great traction. Riding in the desert you will always hit that rock that is just below the sand. These are what would usually cause my pinch flats and cracked rims. ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
Are you talking about the bead being stiff? The sidewall being stiff, I would think, will be a combination of the tires sidewall material and how much air you have in the tire. I could see where only running 2 to 5 pounds in the tire would give it a lot of sidewall cushioning to prevent sharp hits against the wheel. I can kind of see where if you had a solid locking rim bead that you would support the rim a little better, possible.
J, if you're running low pressure, it doesn't provide enough cushioning to prevent sharp hits against the wheel rimedge. We are talking about hammering through rocks here and they will mash the side of the tire all the way into the rim and beat the piss out of it! How it manages to do this without causing a flat is beyond me, but they get dented and end up cracking. The only protection (aside from what might be achieved from the aforementioned tubliss system or some other additional concern) is a higher tire pressure. The higher pressure resists deflection more, absorbing more impact, and making it harder for the rock to get to the rim edge, but also rounds out the tire and reduces traction under certain circumstances such as on the rocks and in slippery mud or on sandy soil where the tire doesn't 'flatten out' and conform to the surface better. On smooth hard-pack and on most gravel, high pressure seems to get as good a traction as low pressure though - but with the possible added side benefit of less flex giving tighter control, as on pavement - so there is a silver lining.
__________________
Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
ONandOFF is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2013, 06:59 AM   #53145
ONandOFF
-ROAD-
 
ONandOFF's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Shenandoah Valley riding wonderland
Oddometer: 5,567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
You also need to remove the bulb from the turn signal indicator. Try removing this bulb before you go any further. Spud
Then rewire the indicator socket so it's between ground and the output of the flasher, instead of between the input and output of the flasher, so you can still be reminded that you forgot to turn the thing off back there at the last turn.
__________________
Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
ONandOFF is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014