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Old 02-11-2013, 10:31 AM   #53566
ltcole
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Everywhere, NM
Oddometer: 85
Worn clutch?

New to this XRL thing, here is my question for the all knowing.

Should the bike jump a little when shifted between the gears, the clutch fully depressed and standing still? Not a big jump, but you can tell it has itchy feet and feels like it wants to get going. How do I know when the clutch needs replaced?

I have an 07 with 5700 miles, and when I bought it at 4400 the PO had the clutch adjustment way too tight in my opinion. There was no free play, which made it not even any fun to ride because you didn't have any control besides full out clutch.

I am constantly trying to learn as much as I can about these bikes because I want mine to last as long as possible, and you guys seem to be in the know.

Thanks ahead of time for any advice/suggestions.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:41 AM   #53567
Sierra Thumper
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Oddometer: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I don't remember anything specific regarding the J.T. sprocket. However, any of the XR650R C/S sprockets can be "persuaded" onto the XR650L countershaft, provided you do enough grinding to the inside of the inner chamfer. You can get the Primary Drive, XR650R C/S sprocket for $8.99 from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...Front-Sprocket

However, definitely be prepared to grind on the thicker, Primary Drive, XR650R C/S sprocket. The PBI/Moose Racing C/S sprockets will install much more easily.

Spud
Spud isn't steering you wrong, I listened to his excellent advice and picked up a Moose 15 tooth XRR sprocket to put on my bike with 11,800 miles on it, the moose sprocket went on with some grease and a big socket over it and a few taps with my rubber mallet.....super easy. When I changed to a 14 tooth Moose front it went on just as easy. And the sprocket is ROCK solid. Spud documented thousands of miles of riding with the XRR sprockets and he completely stopped the cs wear.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:47 AM   #53568
Mossy-Back
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Corvallis, OR
Oddometer: 1,553
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmhrc628 View Post
At the risk of offending the gurus here, may I ask what chain everyone uses these days?

The reason I ask is that nowadays we have t rings, o rings and now x rings. I have 2 Crf450s hence my confusion :)

Since my xr is a 2000 model I grew up using o ring chains. But which chain do I use nowadays ?
I really like my RK X-ring chain. Good quality, decent price, no stretch so far. Bought mine from Rocky Mountain ATV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:49 AM   #53569
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcparks View Post
sign me up for the "my CS is munched" club. .

Based on Spuds sage advice, i pulled the cover off - ! - rust! lots of it, and lots of in-out play. The inboard side of the retainer is mangled, and there is about 30% wear on the CS splines. . open beer. curse fate. recognize own culpability. pull self together. This is what it looks like:

the retainer:




so, given all that,
  • I rely on this bike. ride it every day. 21000 km (a little over 13K miles). no other obvious issues.
  • cant afford to pay someone to rebuild.
  • never rebuilt an engine, but willing to try (there is no try...do, or do not..)
  • have space and tools. some time (but not much...)
So, given the above, what would you do?rebuild?, or 650r sprocket and tack weld? given the advanced wear, will the 650R sprocket have enough to seat on? Thanks to Spud for the cautionary heads up.

whale oil beef hooked.
A new retainer and an XRR sprocket and you'll prolly be good to go longer than you'll own the bike. The XRR sprockets REALLY take up ALL the available spline area, and because of that they slow down the wear dramatically. With a new retainer and XRR sprocket I wouldn't even sweat that
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:53 AM   #53570
elsalvadorklr
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Columbus, GA
Oddometer: 4,149
you can also "rebuild" the splines...

start throwin flames! I know

I did it and it worked till I split my cases for a complete engine rebuild! jajajajaa
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:56 AM   #53571
techforlife
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Moncton,New Brunswick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltcole View Post
New to this XRL thing, here is my question for the all knowing.

Should the bike jump a little when shifted between the gears, the clutch fully depressed and standing still? Not a big jump, but you can tell it has itchy feet and feels like it wants to get going. How do I know when the clutch needs replaced?

I have an 07 with 5700 miles, and when I bought it at 4400 the PO had the clutch adjustment way too tight in my opinion. There was no free play, which made it not even any fun to ride because you didn't have any control besides full out clutch.

I am constantly trying to learn as much as I can about these bikes because I want mine to last as long as possible, and you guys seem to be in the know.

Thanks ahead of time for any advice/suggestions.

If the bike is fully warmed up you should be able to shift into gear with little to no clunking or movement....

If it`s cold,that`s a different story,,thick cold oil between the plates/frictions will cause quite a bit more noise shifting into gear from neutral and will also make it hard to push the bike forward with clutch in and not running in gear,,that...IMHO is normal if only doing this when cold..it`s due to the thick cold oil taking up space between the plates and dragging acting like a slightly dragging clutch would...depends on temperature too...

B
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:57 AM   #53572
mcma111
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: San Francisco,Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltcole View Post
New to this XRL thing, here is my question for the all knowing.

Should the bike jump a little when shifted between the gears, the clutch fully depressed and standing still? Not a big jump, but you can tell it has itchy feet and feels like it wants to get going. How do I know when the clutch needs replaced?

I have an 07 with 5700 miles, and when I bought it at 4400 the PO had the clutch adjustment way too tight in my opinion. There was no free play, which made it not even any fun to ride because you didn't have any control besides full out clutch.

I am constantly trying to learn as much as I can about these bikes because I want mine to last as long as possible, and you guys seem to be in the know.

Thanks ahead of time for any advice/suggestions.

The tell-tale sign of a worn clutch is that the bike will have a very hard time, if not impossible, finding neutral when at a complete stop. Prior to this is when at a stop, in gear the bike wants to creep which is a dragging clutch.
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BMW's
58 R26
79 R100s
91 R100gs

87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:59 AM   #53573
Sierra Thumper
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Joined: Oct 2012
Oddometer: 641
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
That stinks, Falcon. You can practically plate a riding lawnmower, here in Idaho. When I titled my CRF250X at the DMV, I filled out a dual sport form at the same time. I walked out of the DMV in ten minutes, with my license plate in hand. I had not done any street legal modifications at that time, and I didn't even need to present the bike for an inspection.

In Idaho, all you need is a headlight, tail light, brake light, horn, and a single mirror. You can mount a clown horn, if you like. The police don't bother us here.



Spud
Pretty much the same in Nevada....except you need it inspected
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:01 AM   #53574
WMD
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Joined: Jan 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
If you are going to keep that up, you need to think about reworking your suspension. Perhaps pick up a spare frame when you see one for cheap
Haha, nope it was just a one time thing to see if she would fly.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:05 AM   #53575
techforlife
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Location: Moncton,New Brunswick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WMD View Post
Haha, nope it was just a one time thing to see if she would fly.
Anything can fly...........landing...........not so much




B
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01 XR650L,102mm JE 11.25:1..NX650 second gear,FMX650 fifth gear,ported CW head,KW valve train,MegaCycle 173X25.FCR MX pumper.42/158 NVCT needle.Cycra probend CRM,Scott`s sharkfin,Xr`s Only casesaver.FMF "Q2",Sutton Oil Cooler,Clarke 4.0,Red XR`s Only skidplate,Doubletake mirrors,Manracks Rotopax rack..one Minature Schnauzer
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:20 AM   #53576
mcma111
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Location: San Francisco,Ca.
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Gravity sucks
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BMW's
58 R26
79 R100s
91 R100gs

87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:37 AM   #53577
chipbl
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Northern VA
Oddometer: 285
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADV BUM View Post
Would it be easier and more cost effective to use the dash with indicator lights that trailtech offers and then incorporate that into the mount you are designing.
ThumpnRed, have you looked at some of the products HDB makes? But I get it if you want to make your own!
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chipbl screwed with this post 02-11-2013 at 11:48 AM
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:44 AM   #53578
ThumpnRed
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Eye Duh Hoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
you can also "rebuild" the splines...

start throwin flames! I know

I did it and it worked till I split my cases for a complete engine rebuild! jajajajaa
How's that work? I can see how one would rebuild splines on a large shaft, but how in the heck would you accomplish it on such small splines? Heat treating?
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:52 AM   #53579
ltcole
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Joined: Dec 2012
Location: Everywhere, NM
Oddometer: 85
Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
If the bike is fully warmed up you should be able to shift into gear with little to no clunking or movement....

If it`s cold,that`s a different story,,thick cold oil between the plates/frictions will cause quite a bit more noise shifting into gear from neutral and will also make it hard to push the bike forward with clutch in and not running in gear,,that...IMHO is normal if only doing this when cold..it`s due to the thick cold oil taking up space between the plates and dragging acting like a slightly dragging clutch would...depends on temperature too...

B

Thanks, and thanks Steve. That all makes sense. Once it is fully warmed up, it still clunks a little, and it depends on the day whether it decides to go easily into N. Sometimes it goes in with no problem, and sometimes it takes me a try or two.



Maybe it's getting close. I will pay a little more attention to things and hopefully not have to do it too soon.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:53 AM   #53580
Spud Rider
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Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Idaho
Oddometer: 3,729
Quote:
Originally Posted by mendoteach View Post
Spud those bikes need very frequent air filter, and oil service intervals. Otherwise the motors live in dog years. Synthetic oil too!
Thanks for the warning, Teach. Compared to the XR bikes, the CRF motorcycles are maintenance whores. The stock, titanium intake valves usually last 100 hours, or less, before they recess into the valve seats. Fortunately, the previous owner recently rebuilt the top end of my engine. Most importantly, he sent the cylinder head to CRFs Only for Kibblewhite, stainless steel valves and machining.

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/prod...oducts_id/3974



Spud
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