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Old 02-12-2013, 06:46 PM   #53716
katbeanz
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Why don't you go down to The Basement, Joe. People here are tired on your antics.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:05 PM   #53717
techforlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
I just changed the oil on my xrl.....its been over 17 years since I owned my last XR...I had forgotten how much of a pita it can be, with the 2 drain bolts, and messy azz cartridge filter on the side of the engine to change.
I was as careful as I could be, but what a mess that friggin' cartridge oil filter was to replace. I had to take the bike outside and hose down the skid plate to get all the oil out of it.....and that was all from the filter change.
I made a tinfoil funnel for the lower crankcase drain, to direct all the oil through the skidplate oil hole....worked perfectly....until I changed the filter

And then I had to find out through research here, and experimentation, exactly how much oil to put in the oil tank without overfilling it and making another mess. So I added oil, checked level, added, checked, added ad nauseam, until I found out my bike holds 1 1/2 quarts to fill the tank (good info for next time).....then an idle and short ride around the block, then a quart more to bring it to full. So 2 1/2 quarts to full for an oil/filter change.....a little more than the "approximately 2.06 U.S. quarts" the owners manual says

I had read of some guys putting in 2 1/2 quarts and figured they must be overfilling their bikes.....but after coming back from the quick ride and topping off, I went for a longer more "aggressive" ride, came back, shut her down, waited about 2 minutes (as usual) checked the oil bike upright, and it was still right on the full mark.

I'm actually glad the bike holds more oil then I thought, better for our oil longevity and engine cooling capacity, which equates to longer engine life

This aint no 1 1/2 quart KTM
Oil filter change on these bikes does not have to be messy..........


Loosen and remove the 2 lower filter housing bolts.........then just crack the upper one loose............

Now place a drain pan on the floor on that side and lean the bike towards you past vertical..start removing the bolt with your freehand removing the bolt will allow the cover to pop out because of the spring behind the filter...having the bike on an angle will let the oil drain out of the housing straight into the drain pan.......once it stops dripping you can remove the bolt and remove the filter housing cover,pull the oil filter and then upright the bike quickly to it`s side stand with no mess......i may get a little drip run down the clutch cover,but with a shop towel handy it never gets far enough to hit the bash plate...

B
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01 XR650L,102mm JE 11.25:1..NX650 second gear,FMX650 fifth gear,ported CW head,KW valve train,MegaCycle 173X25.FCR MX pumper.42/158 NVCT needle.Cycra probend CRM,Scott`s sharkfin,Xr`s Only casesaver.FMF "Q2",Sutton Oil Cooler,Clarke 4.0,Red XR`s Only skidplate,Doubletake mirrors,Manracks Rotopax rack..one Minature Schnauzer

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Old 02-12-2013, 07:12 PM   #53718
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsalvadorklr View Post
sierra the manual says why and when to use the recomended oil specs and at what temps

its obvious if youre in cold climates and in winter and have summer specd oil that not only are you making the pump work harder but you have a tremendous amount of extra drag on all surfaces because of the COLD.

saying you reccomend a 10-40 on all xrls, and synthetic at that is opening a can o worms!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would not dare use a 10-40 when its 110f degrees down here on the beach for example or normal riding...

think about it...

if your climate does not vary more than 15-20f you can as per the manual use a STRAIGHT grade oil(40w) which has the benefit of lasting longer and performing better because there are no viscosity modifiers in the oil...

remeber this golden rule the bigger difference between "weights" the more modifiers and crap the oil has...it will shear faster...

flame on
Christian, all 4 of my bikes manuals (including the xrl) recomend 10-40 year round for my temps, and thats what I run......Mobil 1 full synthetic bike oil in my streetbikes, and the valvoline full syn in the XRL (thought I'd try it cause its a buck cheaper than the Mobil ). Thats why I was wondering why the po had 20-50 conventional in it in our area It REALLY hurt the performance, I just didn't realize how much till I changed it

If a person hasn't tried a full synthetic yet, they need to...something all bike riders should do It lasts longer, you can tell through the shifting quality, and shifts smoother and the engine runs smoother with it. Plus its been proven to give a slight power gain on the dyno.....and you might even feel the bike rev slightly quicker. I know on every bike I've switched from conventional to synthetic, I've had to turn the idle down afterwords...including the xrl yesterday, which went from valvoline conventional 20-50 to valvoline full syn 10-40.

I haven't been regularly riding the xrl this winter, too cold, so my comparisons were from summer/fall riding with the 20-50 to yesterdays winter ride with the 10-40.

Synthetics also flow quicker in the cold, and they don't suffer the same polymer breakdown in the higher spread weights as conventionals

Synthetics cost more initially, but if you run extended oil changes with them like I do, the savings in time, labor, and money in the long haul is well worth the extra cost imo
BTW cans of worms can be fun
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:22 PM   #53719
selkirkswamper
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another oil thread???

ok hey guys use what you like regular or synthetic......

been using honda 10W-30 in my XRL no issues, and yeah I've tried synthetic in other bikes (old airhead BMW) switched back to reg oil


it's a good week around here between the brown santa and the USPS, I've received my PBI XRR sprocket (15T) smog block off kit, jets for the carb (yeah I'm a rebel I'm not doing "Dave's Mods .......yet) guess I need to get busy, I still have my pro taper bars (7/8" atv hi bend) to put on too.......

have a good week all

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Old 02-12-2013, 07:28 PM   #53720
techforlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
Christian, all 4 of my bikes manuals (including the xrl) recomend 10-40 year round for my temps, and thats what I run......Mobil 1 full synthetic bike oil in my streetbikes, and the valvoline full syn in the XRL (thought I'd try it cause its a buck cheaper than the Mobil ). Thats why I was wondering why the po had 20-50 conventional in it in our area It REALLY hurt the performance, I just didn't realize how much till I changed it

If a person hasn't tried a full synthetic yet, they need to...something all bike riders should do It lasts longer, you can tell through the shifting quality, and shifts smoother and the engine runs smoother with it. Plus its been proven to give a slight power gain on the dyno.....and you might even feel the bike rev slightly quicker. I know on every bike I've switched from conventional to synthetic, I've had to turn the idle down afterwords...including the xrl yesterday, which went from valvoline conventional 20-50 to valvoline full syn 10-40.

I haven't been regularly riding the xrl this winter, too cold, so my comparisons were from summer/fall riding with the 20-50 to yesterdays winter ride with the 10-40.

Synthetics also flow quicker in the cold, and they don't suffer the same polymer breakdown in the higher spread weights as conventionals

Synthetics cost more initially, but if you run extended oil changes with them like I do, the savings in time, labor, and money in the long haul is well worth the extra cost
I do not run any thicker than 10w40 here unless it`s mid summer,,Honda does spec 10w40 for these bikes for alot of temperatures...

I tried syn oil for awhile though,,noticed absolutely no diff in shifting,idle,power,etc......it did stay cleaner a little longer is all..

I found,,for me,,changing the oil with Castrol 10w40 motorcycle oil at reg intervals of 2000 miles with my oil cooler installed keeps the oil just as clean,,and is far cheaper....so i said to heck with syn oil....

Everyone has their preference on oil type/change frequency......


I will say this though.....these engines were designed in the 80`s.......and have only increased in displacement with few other redesigns

So the oil we buy now FAR out specs what these engines need and were designed to use.......you can basically buy any motorcycle oil and most diesel oils and be WAY ahead of it`s required lubrication spec..just avoid energy conserving oils due to the wet clutch..

B
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01 XR650L,102mm JE 11.25:1..NX650 second gear,FMX650 fifth gear,ported CW head,KW valve train,MegaCycle 173X25.FCR MX pumper.42/158 NVCT needle.Cycra probend CRM,Scott`s sharkfin,Xr`s Only casesaver.FMF "Q2",Sutton Oil Cooler,Clarke 4.0,Red XR`s Only skidplate,Doubletake mirrors,Manracks Rotopax rack..one Minature Schnauzer
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:33 PM   #53721
techforlife
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Location: Moncton,New Brunswick
Oddometer: 4,250
Quote:
Originally Posted by selkirkswamper View Post
ok hey guys use what you like regular or synthetic......

been using honda 10W-30 in my XRL no issues, and yeah I've tried synthetic in other bikes (old airhead BMW) switched back to reg oil


it's a good week around here between the brown santa and the USPS, I've received my PBI XRR sprocket (15T) smog block off kit, jets for the carb (yeah I'm a rebel I'm not doing "Dave's Mods .......yet) guess I need to get busy, I still have my pro taper bars (7/8" atv hi bend) to put on too.......

have a good week all





B
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01 XR650L,102mm JE 11.25:1..NX650 second gear,FMX650 fifth gear,ported CW head,KW valve train,MegaCycle 173X25.FCR MX pumper.42/158 NVCT needle.Cycra probend CRM,Scott`s sharkfin,Xr`s Only casesaver.FMF "Q2",Sutton Oil Cooler,Clarke 4.0,Red XR`s Only skidplate,Doubletake mirrors,Manracks Rotopax rack..one Minature Schnauzer
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:38 PM   #53722
Jeathrow Bowdean
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Synthetic is ball molecule, and Conventional is string molecule. Together in a Semi Synthetic the molecule is like a ball and string, so we call the the tether ball effect. Both worlds in one. Ha Ha

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Old 02-12-2013, 07:53 PM   #53723
bwalsh
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Hell town
Oddometer: 10,911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
My old throttle tube was getting a little worn, so I ordered a new one along with my grips.
My stock throttle tube doesn't look much better than the broken one I scored for free! I never shared these pics before so...

repairing the broken tube...



The yellow part in the pic is G-Flex epoxy. This part of the tube was MIA...


I found a broom handle in the garage that was a perfect diameter to fit snugly inside the tube. I wrapped the handle with saran wrap so the epoxy wouldn't stick the the handle. If you guys ever work with any kind of epoxy ALWAYS use Saran Wrap. It is the only plastic wrap that epoxy doesn't stick to.
You mix an equal ammount of both parts of the epoxy and stir it together. I added Colloidal Silica to the G-flex to thicken it up to a paste like consistency so it wouldn't run.


Filled in the missing section and smoothed out...


Close up...


Sanded down. There is very little overlapping epoxy on the outside of the tube and no overlapping on the inside. Basically what is bonded together is the thin edges of the epoxy and the throttle tube...


It held up to me squeezing it between my fingers! Notice the egg shape from me pressing it together?



Here is a pic of it after I sawed off the cable attachment part...


I did press a little too hard and heard it "crack" after the second to last pic but it didn't come apart...until I started hammering it onto the handlebar. Even then only half of one long side came loose! I just taped the small piece that cracked again with a piece of electric tape.

That G Flex is some good stuff!
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:08 PM   #53724
ThumpnRed
Pig Wrangler
 
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Eye Duh Hoe
Oddometer: 2,469
Quote:
Originally Posted by mendoteach View Post
Well I have had a USD conversion on mine for fiver years and it is awesome. In my experience the stock Ls are not balanced (I have ridden five of them) and the front spring rate is too light compared to the rear. I have ridden them with 10 weight oil, heavier springs, revalving, a fork brace or a combination of those things and they were markedly better. That's just my experience. As for front wheel landings, if the bike is sprung and valved for it, you can do it. The Supercross riders land on the front wheel all the time.
Amen brother.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:09 PM   #53725
bwalsh
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Joined: Jan 2009
Location: Hell town
Oddometer: 10,911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
So 2 1/2 quarts to full for an oil/filter change.....a little more than the "approximately 2.06 U.S. quarts" the owners manual says
Don't laugh, My 04 takes a little over two quarts to full...the 08, 2.5. Go figure. That includes filter changes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by techforlife View Post
you can basically buy any motorcycle oil and most diesel oils and be WAY ahead of it`s required lubrication spec
The PO of my 04 was using synthetic oil. I've never been a fan so I've always run Valvoline Dino MC oil in it. I started running Rotella diesel oil in the 08 because I can buy it buy the gallon jug and it works well in bikes. I will be running the some kind of diesel oil, Rotella or probably Valvoline Premium Blue(what I run in my truck) in the 04 once it's back together.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:15 PM   #53726
ThumpnRed
Pig Wrangler
 
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Location: Eye Duh Hoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Well, you sure aren't gonna find me landing on the front wheel (unless something goes wrong). I land on the back and power the front down, I'm not about to purposely land on the front and chance the back getting ahead of me - not a good scenario to be caught in. YMMV.
Would be nice if you could show me how well that conversion works here in the mountain trails, compared to mine... if you could show me a thing or two I'd consider a conversion myself. Meanwhile, I'm happy...
There are two guys I've ridden many times with who outride me: one has a stock XRL, the other, a stock KLX250!
But the majority of the rest of I've ridden with, I wait for
A guy I ride with has an XRL with stock suspension. He spanks my ass on every ride. He is however a MUCH better rider than I am and would likely serve my ass up to me if he was on a Sportster or a KLR. The fact still remains that I am able to ride at a much faster pace (and feel much safer) with a revalved rear shock and USDs than I ever was able to with the stock forks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:26 PM   #53727
ThumpnRed
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Location: Eye Duh Hoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
My stock throttle tube doesn't look much better than the broken one I scored for free! I never shared these pics before so...

repairing the broken tube...



The yellow part in the pic is G-Flex epoxy. This part of the tube was MIA...


I found a broom handle in the garage that was a perfect diameter to fit snugly inside the tube. I wrapped the handle with saran wrap so the epoxy wouldn't stick the the handle. If you guys ever work with any kind of epoxy ALWAYS use Saran Wrap. It is the only plastic wrap that epoxy doesn't stick to.

Filled in the missing section and smoothed out...


Close up...


Sanded down. There is very little overlapping epoxy on the outside of the tube and no overlapping on the inside. Basically what is bonded together is the thin edges of the epoxy and the throttle tube...


It held up to me squeezing it between my fingers! Notice the egg shape from me pressing it together?



Here is a pic of it after I sawed off the cable attachment part...


I did press a little too hard and heard it "crack" after the second to last pic but it didn't come apart...until I started hammering it onto the handlebar. Even then only half of one long side came loose! I just taped the small piece that cracked again with a piece of electric tape.

That G Flex is some good stuff!
DAMN! I thought I was the cheapest sumbeach here. You trying to elbow in on me?! I just threw away a throttle tube that was in better shape than the one you fixed. I am going to suffer through severe fits of depression for weeks over wantonly wasting a perfectly good bike part! I need a beer... shit, this could be time to crack the seal on that bottle of Jim
In all seriousness... I applaud the resourcefulness!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
'93 XR650L A few stock parts left...
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:32 PM   #53728
GPrairie_Rider
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: DFW
Oddometer: 931
Carb Clogged?

Hey guys,

Just want to introduce myself. My name is Chris i am from North Tejas. I just picked me up an 08 XR657L. It has the 101mm piston in it. Sub-frame re-enforce kit, bar risers and Renthal fat bars on it. I rode it about 100 miles home with out an issue. Today i got out and cleaned it up a little bit, got a rag and cleaned the fenders and seat, cleaned the rims. Went to ride it and it just seemed like it took a long time to warm up. Almost like it was missing a little. It will run okay on half choke, but no choke at all and you twist the throttle and it misses and dies.

What could it be? I am not new to bikes. I can pretty much do my own maitenence with the exception of tearing into the bottom end. Could it be a clogged barb? Should i run some Gumout thru the tank? I have re-built the carb and re-jetted my old YZ so i aint worried about doing that. Just need some kind of help of where to start. The airfilter is good, has gas, doesnt smoke. The Temp here in TX is about 49 F. Any help would be appreciated, i am absoloutley in love with this bike.

Also just FYI, still have the Octopus on it, no Daves mod, stock pipe.

Chris
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:38 PM   #53729
mcma111
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Chris,

The pilot jet is probably plugged. Pull the carb and then the pilot jet. Get a strand of wire from a wire brush and poke it through the jet.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:41 PM   #53730
GPrairie_Rider
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Joined: Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Chris,

The pilot jet is probably plugged. Pull the carb and then the pilot jet. Get a strand of wire from a wire brush and poke it through the jet.

Will do! Thanks!

Chris
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