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[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by marlinjames

I got my first dual sport yesterday. a 2007 xr650l bone stock minus a dunlop 606 rear tire for 3 grand. so far i love it. I had a 1972 yamaha 175 enduro about 15 years ago. Im not counting that one. I posted somewhere else and asked what things i should do first and got a small list. any other suggestions please let me know. im about 6'4 and 300lbs. Im use to riding a tricked raptor 700 and a screaming eagle vrod.
i have a few questions on this list tho.
1.daves mod=what jet kit should i buy? ive seen a few brands. or does it really matter? and what jets should i use or is every bike different? or is a xrr pumper carb a better idea?

2. suspension= i was going to order some suspension from procycle.us but wasnt sure what kit to order. if i should just get the gold valves or do the full fork solution kit? and what springs i should get. .5, .6, .8 or what? or should i just go with something else all together? any suggestions for the rear shock?

3. snorkle removal= straight forward

4. gut the stock muffler= how far should i go? just unbolt the silencer and stuff or straight gut it? or would i be better off aftermarket?

5. xrr 14 tooth sprocket= just go by a stock xrr sprocket? or do i need to ask for anything specific?

6. im also going to buy a larger gas tank thinking the Acerbis 5.8?

Originally Posted by mrfixit54016

Here is my 2 cents...

Daves mod only requires you to go to your Honda shop and order the proper size jets for your main jet and your pilot jet. Don't waste money on a Dynojet kit or something that claims to be a "complete" kit.

Pull the snorkle and order a UNI filter.

I would not mod the exhaust until you are sure you want to do this. If you want loud, then go aftermarket. I will buy your stock exhaust from you.

The stock suspension is not that bad. I would try draining the fork oil and putting in some 10 W fork oil. It will feel much better for a guy your size. Then just set your sag properly on the rear shock.

The XRR sprocket up front is easy. Order a Moose brand front sprocket for any year XR650R and it will bolt right up.

The Acerbis tank is an excellent upgrade for more capacity. If you want a white one, PM me.

Add a bash plate to the list. If you ride off road you will want it.

Get some good miles on the bike with these upgrades, then you will know how much money you want to spend on certain improvements, and you can prioritize what to tackle first.

Have fun!

I suggest you follow MrFixit's advice.

I would only add the following points.

PBI manufactures the XR650R C/S sprocket for Moose Racing. Therefore, I recommend either the PBI or Moose Racing, XR650R C/S sprockets.

You can also buy individual carburetor jets from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

I like my Clarke, 4.7-gallon fuel tank.

Spud

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by marlinjames

with the bash plate, is the moose one better or the msr?
how much oil do the forks take?

Most of the XR650L skid plates are manufactured by Ricochet, and rebadged with another name.



http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ate/skid+plate

Spud

[Super Dave Hawaii]

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

It's all in the angle. The 14 tooth c-sprocket is smaller and lets the chain put more downward pressure on the slider. Tensioning the chain is the last thing you want to do... Having the chain tighter would make the chain saw into the slider even more and would also put more pressure on your countershaft. If you are running a larger rear sprocket it will lessen the effect as the chain circle on the back is larger. XR600Rs ran 14/48 stock. The XRL is 15/45. Play around with the final ratio that you want and pick front and rears accordingly.

Most of the chain, sprocket and slider wear I've seen is from improper maintanance. Keep the chain adjusted properly and lubed you will get good life out of it. I run a 15/46 with a Moose aluminum sprocket on the rear. The chain and spockets have over 10,000 miles on them. Lube and adjust every 250 street miles and every day dirt miles.
The XRL has a steep swing arm and it is more critical on adjustments than most bikes.

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by Brown Falcon

Sounds like I need to move to Idaho... if my wife would let me. Too far from the beach, and too cold/snowy for her.

If she doesn't like cold and snow, she won't like East Idaho. However, Lewiston is in the "banana belt," and Boise is also warmer than East Idaho.

Spud

[Walterxr650l]

Originally Posted by purpledrake

Hey guys
I have a good chain slider on right now, so there is no new chewing on the swing arm, but the slider was completely trashed when I bought the bike. Does the aggressive sprocket (14/48) cause early deterioration of the slider (when compared to the stock 15/45)? If so, then wouldn't chain tensioning resolve the problem?

The theory as I understand it is that the smaller diameter circle of the 14 tooth sprocket, causes the chain to drop, or drop more, as it comes across the front of the swing arm, and thus wear more than the larger circle of the 15 tooth sprocket. You could see an extreme example of this by just wrapping the chain around the counter shaft with no sprocket on the shaft. Whether dropping one tooth is enough to make a noticeable difference, I don't know. I have only run 15 tooth sprockets.

I do know that chain lube makes a big difference on chain slider wear. On my first chain I used chain wax. The chain lasted about 14,000 miles. My chain slide was worn through, and the chain was wearing on the swing arm by then. I switched to PJ1 black label, my chain life has been similar, some less a few a little more. But chain slider wear has decrease dramatically. I next changed the slider at 74,425 miles. I'll post a picture of the new and old slider at that time. You can see that the old slider wasn't worn through yet. But PJ1 does make a black greasy mess of the left side of the swing arm and rear wheel.



Walter

[ADV BUM]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

An older design of the XR650R skid plate would fit without modification. However, I remember reading the older design was discontinued, and replaced with a newer design. I believe the new version of the XR650R skid plate won't fit the XR650L; at least it won't fit without modification.

Spud

I believe this is the one I have.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Moose-Racing...73b821&vxp=mtr

My bike


I had to drill the two mounting holes that are usually on the 650l skidplate. I also put two aluminum spacers so the plate sat just in front of the motor (perfectionist sometimes). Drilled a bunch of holes for air and added a another piece to protect my header and header wrap.

[Super Dave Hawaii]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

If she doesn't like cold and snow, she won't like East Idaho. However, Lewiston is in the "banana belt," and Boise is also warmer than East Idaho.

Spud

They grow bananas in Idaho? Thought you only grew taters!

[marlinjames]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

I suggest you follow MrFixit's advice.

I would only add the following points.

PBI manufactures the XR650R C/S sprocket for Moose Racing. Therefore, I recommend either the PBI or Moose Racing, XR650R C/S sprockets.

You can also buy individual carburetor jets from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

I like my Clarke, 4.7-gallon fuel tank.

Spud

sweet thanks guys, Im at sealevel and the motor and exhaust are bone stock. trying to figure out what jets i need since they sale them individually.
i think might do the rear sprocket. any brand better than another? cause im 6'4 i dont plan on lowering the bike . i dont want the chain digging into the chain slide. so ill probably go with the 48 tooth rear.
i plan on ordering off motorcyclesuper store and the two skid plates looked identical

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by ADV BUM

...I had to drill the two mounting holes that are usually on the 650l skidplate. I also put two aluminum spacers so the plate sat just in front of the motor (perfectionist sometimes). Drilled a bunch of holes for air and added a another piece to protect my header and header wrap.

Thanks for showing the mods to the XR650R skid plate. Did you also drill an oil drain hole?

Spud

[ThumpnRed]

I am slowly zeroing in on the dash (Free advice... Stay the hell away from anything resembling a CAD program... it will consume your LIFE!)
Back to the story.
I picked up the 12V outlet the other day. I decided to not add a USB tap and a normal 12V (cig lighter) outlet. I picked up a USB insert for the 12V outlet that fits so tight you can barely get it out, so I think that will work out OK (I can toss the USB insert into my riding vest and be happy). I have a Baja Designs key switch on the way. Once I figure out the diameter of it, I can plug the hole into the drawing and send it off to the waterjet dude.
Here's the latest edition:



A scale print to give you an idea of what it will look like on the bike.

[ADV BUM]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

Thanks for showing the mods to the XR650R skid plate. Did you also drill an oil drain hole?

Spud

No, but I did not use it on the other one either. I usually put a piece of cardboard under the plug so that any oil run over the frame and out.

I should also say that the aluminum spacers were put on the two bolts between the front of the frame and the guard.

[purpledrake]

Originally Posted by Walterxr650l

I do know that chain lube makes a big difference on chain slider wear. On my first chain I used chain wax. The chain lasted about 14,000 miles. My chain slide was worn through, and the chain was wearing on the swing arm by then. I switched to PJ1 black label, my chain life has been similar, some less a few a little more. But chain slider wear has decrease dramatically. I next changed the slider at 74,425 miles. I'll post a picture of the new and old slider at that time. You can see that the old slider wasn't worn through yet. But PJ1 does make a black greasy mess of the left side of the swing arm and rear wheel.
Walter

Originally Posted by Super Dave Hawaii

Most of the chain, sprocket and slider wear I've seen is from improper maintanance. Keep the chain adjusted properly and lubed you will get good life out of it. I run a 15/46 with a Moose aluminum sprocket on the rear. The chain and spockets have over 10,000 miles on them. Lube and adjust every 250 street miles and every day dirt miles. The XRL has a steep swing arm and it is more critical on adjustments than most bikes.

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

I am still using the original, stock chain slider after 40,000 miles. Most of those miles I was employing a 14T C/S sprocket. Many of those miles I was employing a 13T C/S sprocket. I have ridden very few miles with a 15T C/S sprocket. However, I did install a lowering link very soon after I acquired my XR650L. I also keep my chain adjusted to the proper tension. Spud

Thanks, ThumpnRed, BrownFalcon.

I ran PJ1 last year, and it really is a horrible mess. I just stripped it all off this weekend, and have just WD40 on for now (no dirt riding in the forecast). I get Walter's point, however.

Putting all of the advice together, it sounds like the 14/48 vs. 15/45 is not the issue, rather frequent lubing and chain adjustments are more important. The fact that Mr. Spud still has his original slider @ 40K miles speaks volumes (lowering link noted).

Back to the ole PJ1, I guess. Somebody way back on this thread talked about letting it dry out a bit before riding, to prevent accumulation of dirt. I will apply very carefully this time around. (Maybe take the chain off, soak it in PJ1, and dry it on a rack? What do you think?)

Thanks, everybody.

[Spud Rider]

Originally Posted by purpledrake

Thanks, ThumpnRed, BrownFalcon.

I ran PJ1 last year, and it really is a horrible mess. I just stripped it all off this weekend, and have just WD40 on for now (no dirt riding in the forecast). I get Walter's point, however.

Putting all of the advice together, it sounds like the 14/48 vs. 15/45 is not the issue, rather frequent lubing and chain adjustments are more important. The fact that Mr. Spud still has his original slider @ 40K miles speaks volumes (lowering link noted).

Back to the ole PJ1, I guess. Somebody way back on this thread talked about letting it dry out a bit before riding, to prevent accumulation of dirt. I will apply very carefully this time around. (Maybe take the chain off, soak it in PJ1, and dry it on a rack? What do you think?)

Thanks, everybody.

I'm sure lubricating the drive chain helps to prolong the life of the chain slider. If anyone would know about this, Walter certainly would.

However, I only clean my drive drive with WD40. I have never applied a specially formulated, drive chain lubricant. I used to apply DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry Lubricant to the drive chain, but I no longer follow this practice. Therefore, I've got to believe my lowering link is a positive factor in prolonging the longevity of my bike's chain slider.

Spud

[D-man]

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

I'm sure lubricating the drive chain helps to prolong the life of the chain slider. If anyone would know about this, Walter certainly would.

However, I only clean my drive drive with WD40. I have never applied a specially formulated, drive chain lubricant. I used to apply DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry Lubricant to the drive chain, but I no longer follow this practice. Therefore, I've got to believe my lowering link is a positive factor in prolonging the longevity of my bike's chain slider.

Spud

I suspect the most positive factor is actually doing it! one could probably lube it with olive oil on a regular basis and it would out last by far not using anything at all. Just my buck three eighty!

One note is that if you are using an x ring or oring chain, lubing doesn't do much of any thing for the chain, but it helps all the other components stay in the game much longer. again that is only my dollar two ninety five's worth.

dman

[Sierra Thumper]

Originally Posted by KyoXR

Right now on my FCR I am running a 142 main, 42 pilot, a NCVQ needle at the top notch.
I'm doing my tuning with a wide band O2,

my elevation is 330ft, up to 6600ish feet on rides.

stock engine, snorkel out, UNI air filter, stock exhaust with the baffle out but with fabricated baffle that keeps the internal opening diameter the same so it's quieter then stock but doesn't restrict air flow.

Originally Posted by Super Dave Hawaii

The jetting I am running is 45 pilot whith a 175 main, needle in stock 450 position. This is for sea level as we only can get abuot 1400 feet elevation here. The 45 pilot is one size up from stock 450 and is okay for here but will need 42 for upper cali desert to run clean at idle.
The cv carb acually uses bigger jets than fcr will need.

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

NCVT Needle (available at Yamaha shops), clip in the second slot from the top; 42PJ; 158 MJ
I have an adjustable AP on it so no leak jet. I have my AP turned down pretty far. Bike gets about 50mpg around town (provided I don't ride like a hooligan).

Originally Posted by ThumpnRed

The needle plays a HUGE part in the equation. I bought a copy of the JD Jetting tool... it makes trouble shooting different needles and jet combos much easier.

Thanks for the info Red
From the jetting specs you guys have been kind enough to share, and others I've read, I'm coming to the conclusion that the xrl is a pretty forgiving machine with jetting, and has a pretty wide margin it'll operate within......either with the stock carb or a pumper. I've seen similar machines with similar carbs at similar elevations....with radically different jetting.....and they all seem to run good enough for their owners to be happy.
MartinFan on TT even swapped the jets directly out of his stock CV and into his FCR and said the bike ran great.

I think our big ole tractor motor of an engine doesn't really care a whole lot about jetting, as long as its not blubbering rich, or stumbling lean. Anything in between those 2 extremes and the bike seems to run fine for most guys. I think the best bet is to probably jet for decent mileage and good throttle response through the range, and be done with it. I wonder how much if any diff there is sotp between a bike getting 38mpg and one getting 50?

I was worried jetting my FCR would be a pain, but I think I'm going to keep it simple and not go ocd on it

Hell, I cut an extra hole in the airbox and stuck a full exhaust on it with the Dave's mods jetting, set up for stock exhaust with just a uni filter and desnorkeled, and the bike runs great. Big improvement in power and quicker revving, and all I had to adjust was the mixture screw
I like this bike.....I'm glad its not a finicky, hard to dial in pita. And over 32 years of riding/owning bikes, I've had my share

I can't wait to get the FCR on there.....I suspect its gonna be good