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Old 02-17-2013, 11:01 PM   #54151
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post
Thanks, ThumpnRed, BrownFalcon.

I ran PJ1 last year, and it really is a horrible mess. I just stripped it all off this weekend, and have just WD40 on for now (no dirt riding in the forecast). I get Walter's point, however.

Putting all of the advice together, it sounds like the 14/48 vs. 15/45 is not the issue, rather frequent lubing and chain adjustments are more important. The fact that Mr. Spud still has his original slider @ 40K miles speaks volumes (lowering link noted).

Back to the ole PJ1, I guess. Somebody way back on this thread talked about letting it dry out a bit before riding, to prevent accumulation of dirt. I will apply very carefully this time around. (Maybe take the chain off, soak it in PJ1, and dry it on a rack? What do you think?)

Thanks, everybody.
I'm sure lubricating the drive chain helps to prolong the life of the chain slider. If anyone would know about this, Walter certainly would.

However, I only clean my drive drive with WD40. I have never applied a specially formulated, drive chain lubricant. I used to apply DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry Lubricant to the drive chain, but I no longer follow this practice. Therefore, I've got to believe my lowering link is a positive factor in prolonging the longevity of my bike's chain slider.

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:25 PM   #54152
D-man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I'm sure lubricating the drive chain helps to prolong the life of the chain slider. If anyone would know about this, Walter certainly would.

However, I only clean my drive drive with WD40. I have never applied a specially formulated, drive chain lubricant. I used to apply DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry Lubricant to the drive chain, but I no longer follow this practice. Therefore, I've got to believe my lowering link is a positive factor in prolonging the longevity of my bike's chain slider.

Spud
I suspect the most positive factor is actually doing it! one could probably lube it with olive oil on a regular basis and it would out last by far not using anything at all. Just my buck three eighty!

One note is that if you are using an x ring or oring chain, lubing doesn't do much of any thing for the chain, but it helps all the other components stay in the game much longer. again that is only my dollar two ninety five's worth.

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Old 02-18-2013, 12:55 AM   #54153
Sierra Thumper
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Laugh Some observations on the xrl and jetting

Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoXR View Post
Right now on my FCR I am running a 142 main, 42 pilot, a NCVQ needle at the top notch.
I'm doing my tuning with a wide band O2,

my elevation is 330ft, up to 6600ish feet on rides.

stock engine, snorkel out, UNI air filter, stock exhaust with the baffle out but with fabricated baffle that keeps the internal opening diameter the same so it's quieter then stock but doesn't restrict air flow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Dave Hawaii View Post
The jetting I am running is 45 pilot whith a 175 main, needle in stock 450 position. This is for sea level as we only can get abuot 1400 feet elevation here. The 45 pilot is one size up from stock 450 and is okay for here but will need 42 for upper cali desert to run clean at idle.
The cv carb acually uses bigger jets than fcr will need.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
NCVT Needle (available at Yamaha shops), clip in the second slot from the top; 42PJ; 158 MJ
I have an adjustable AP on it so no leak jet. I have my AP turned down pretty far. Bike gets about 50mpg around town (provided I don't ride like a hooligan).
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
The needle plays a HUGE part in the equation. I bought a copy of the JD Jetting tool... it makes trouble shooting different needles and jet combos much easier.
Thanks for the info Red
From the jetting specs you guys have been kind enough to share, and others I've read, I'm coming to the conclusion that the xrl is a pretty forgiving machine with jetting, and has a pretty wide margin it'll operate within......either with the stock carb or a pumper. I've seen similar machines with similar carbs at similar elevations....with radically different jetting.....and they all seem to run good enough for their owners to be happy.
MartinFan on TT even swapped the jets directly out of his stock CV and into his FCR and said the bike ran great.

I think our big ole tractor motor of an engine doesn't really care a whole lot about jetting, as long as its not blubbering rich, or stumbling lean. Anything in between those 2 extremes and the bike seems to run fine for most guys. I think the best bet is to probably jet for decent mileage and good throttle response through the range, and be done with it. I wonder how much if any diff there is sotp between a bike getting 38mpg and one getting 50?

I was worried jetting my FCR would be a pain, but I think I'm going to keep it simple and not go ocd on it

Hell, I cut an extra hole in the airbox and stuck a full exhaust on it with the Dave's mods jetting, set up for stock exhaust with just a uni filter and desnorkeled, and the bike runs great. Big improvement in power and quicker revving, and all I had to adjust was the mixture screw
I like this bike.....I'm glad its not a finicky, hard to dial in pita. And over 32 years of riding/owning bikes, I've had my share

I can't wait to get the FCR on there.....I suspect its gonna be good
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:46 AM   #54154
KyoXR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
Do you have pics or specs on the internals of your fabricated baffle?
Pretty simple design:





wrapped the punch plate with 4-stroke muffler packing,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
MartinFan on TT even swapped the jets directly out of his stock CV and into his FCR and said the bike ran great.
Keep in mind that will only work with FCR-MX carbs not the Gen 1 carb,

FCR-MX Pilot:



FCR Gen 1 Pilot:

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Old 02-18-2013, 02:36 AM   #54155
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoXR View Post
I agree with the jetting seeming to be all over the place, before I got my wide band O2 sensor I wasted a lot of time trying to jet this in going by one jet change at a time and trying to find on the net the best jetting for my set up.(NO luck there)
The more I read the more I don't think you can carry over the same jetting from a FCR-MX and the FCR Gen 1 carb (what we have),
right now I'm dialing in my idle, It's about 10ish AFR and my fuel screw is just cracked open so I am trying to dial it in a bit by adjusting my AIR Pilot screw, (yours should have a adjustable AIR screw as well), If that doesn't dial it in then I will probably have to go to a leaner pilot jet or swap out my needle, flip,flop,adjust...it's all tied in together.

I'm getting high 14+AFR and just touching 15 AFR on full throttle,If you back the throttle off just a hint the AFR drops back into the 13s.
my mid up to just before full throttle is 12-13ish,
It seems to me that the power drops off if I start hitting 14 AFR or hitting 11 AFR through the mid.
I had a 145 main in and was running rich at full throttle,
before anyone says "If your fuel screw is just cracked open then you need to drop the pilot jet", well, there is a lean spot coming off of idle that is a sore spot, I think that is why the FCR-MX carb has a throttle valve cut away on it to address this,(the Gen 1 does not so when looking at the Calibration chart this doesn't apply) so I might just have to compromise on my rich idle to avoid that lean spot.it's necessary because that lean spot hits right at "parking lot speed", and it's no fun having the bike fall on it's face (way lean) right at this throttle position, especially because the slow speed (no air to cool your bike and running lean) your going to hit this spot on technical stuff a lot. so it's important to jet for this.

to answer your question, the bike runs great otherwise, the only time any issue comes up is when the bike has been running and I shut it off, the engine sometimes turns over a few more times to fire up because of the rich idle.

If you get that lean spot off of idle the needle is what needs to be swapped out, with the stock OCEMR needle the bike is practically un-rideable the lean spot is so pronounced but..every bike is different

I'll keep you updated on my "dialing in" .
I think I have complicated this answer well enough.
Thanks a TON for spending the time to give me so much info on our carbs .....I'm new to flatslide pumpers, so I really appreciate all the info I can get.....I'm an info ho' I've bookmarked this page, and I'll be putting this info to use soon

I do have a question already tho, my carb came off a predator 500 quad......am I going to need a different throttle bracket for the carb. It looked like the holder only had a spot for one cable? I'm going to be ordering the carb to airbox adapter and throttle cable set from Sudco on tuesday.....was wondering if I need a different throttle cable bracket as well?

And I recently added a full powerbomb exhaust to my bike as well as cutting another hole in the top of the airbox with my stock CV carb. I had a bad flatspot off idle when grabbing any fast throttle, which I suspect was caused by the hole I cut, so I had to richen up my already rich pilot circuit by turning my 58 pilot out to about 2 3/4 turns, from the 1/4 turn it was out originally. I live at 5000ft up, so the 58 pilot the po put in is way big for my elevation, but ended up just being big enough with the cut air box and full exhaust.
My idle is mega rich now, but I just turned the idle up some so it wouldn't die coming to a stop, and now the bike pulls MUCH harder from idle all the way up....with no bogs or stumbles anywhere. Huge improvement. Honestly I don't mind the rich idle at all, I hardly spend any time idling, and its got awesome torque right off idle for crawling around the tight stuff If I have to take a similar approach with the FCR41 I'm fine with that I don't need perfection, I just want better throttle response and more power...if I keep getting that with my mods I'm happy

So far with the mods I've done the po wouldn't even recgonize the bike, its twice as fast and even better suspended.

Have you tried increasing the ap duration to get a little more fuel in the lean area?
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:09 AM   #54156
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marlinjames View Post
thank you for the welcome and the info. i just want to do a few of the important mods first. right now i have 1500 set aside for mods for this month. i planned on spending 4-4500 figured since i got it super cheap i want to use the extra for goodies
I have a quick suggestion......some folks won't agree, but I'd avoid piling too much money into it..unless you plan on keeping it forever
The xrl is a great bike for its intended purpose, and some reasonable mods make it a much nicer machine, but when you start getting enough money into it to match a nice used KTM or the like, you'll start losing money fast, because you'll never be able to get anywhere near that kind of money back out of it come selling time. Its a great bang for the buck bike, but don't turn it into a moneypile unless you plan on keeping it permanently Gotta keep your head about these things
That being said with the right mods you may never want to sell it
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:20 AM   #54157
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marlinjames View Post
isn't there a bunch of different sized jets? shouldnt it already have the proper sized jets? im confused. lol

Should i go a tooth smaller or leave it at 15 teeth?
For your size definately go with a 14 front, stock the xrl is geared pretty tall overall...especially fifth, and can struggle to pull the gearing under some conditions....especially weighted down. Plus the 14 tooth will still let you cruise 70+ very comfortably.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:29 AM   #54158
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Most of the XR650L skid plates are manufactured by Ricochet, and rebadged with another name.



http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ate/skid+plate

Spud
No wonder they all look the same Thats the only style I think I've ever seen on an xrl, including mine
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:51 AM   #54159
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post
Thanks, ThumpnRed, BrownFalcon.

I ran PJ1 last year, and it really is a horrible mess. I just stripped it all off this weekend, and have just WD40 on for now (no dirt riding in the forecast). I get Walter's point, however.

Putting all of the advice together, it sounds like the 14/48 vs. 15/45 is not the issue, rather frequent lubing and chain adjustments are more important. The fact that Mr. Spud still has his original slider @ 40K miles speaks volumes (lowering link noted).

Back to the ole PJ1, I guess. Somebody way back on this thread talked about letting it dry out a bit before riding, to prevent accumulation of dirt. I will apply very carefully this time around. (Maybe take the chain off, soak it in PJ1, and dry it on a rack? What do you think?)

Thanks, everybody.
I had a can of PJ1...ONCE...I picked it up years ago to try out on my street bikes. I only used it one time...NEVER again. It was an ungodly mess on my bikes.....horrible nasty azz stuff. I went back to maxima chain wax (great stuff.....for a street bike anyway) and then switched to the Dupont Multi-use blue can, teflon dry lube chain lubricant....that stuff ROCKED until they quit making it last year

Now I'm using the Dupont yellow can chain lube.....still not too messy and lubes great. I use PB blaster (I think?) motorcycle chain lube on the xrl, its cheap at wal-mart and I wipe it on with a rag after every ride. The streetbikes get a good dupont every 800 miles or so.
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:02 AM   #54160
Sierra Thumper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoXR View Post
Keep in mind that will only work with FCR-MX carbs not the Gen 1 carb,

FCR-MX Pilot:



FCR Gen 1 Pilot:

So when I go to order jets what do I ask for? And will the main jet swap from my stock CV carb to our FCR41's?
And again, thanks for the help Kyo
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:38 AM   #54161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
then switched to the Dupont Multi-use blue can, teflon dry lube chain lubricant....that stuff ROCKED until they quit making it last year
Loved that stuff, wish I would have bought a case before it disappeared. It must have worked too good
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:04 AM   #54162
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I know some folks have used the XR650R skid plate with a little mounting mod. Much better coverage & will be my next skid plate. Currently running a DG plate which is still better coverage than the MSR/XR's only/Ricochet.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:50 AM   #54163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marlinjames View Post
I got my first dual sport yesterday. a 2007 xr650l bone stock minus a dunlop 606 rear tire for 3 grand. so far i love it. I had a 1972 yamaha 175 enduro about 15 years ago. Im not counting that one. I posted somewhere else and asked what things i should do first and got a small list. any other suggestions please let me know. im about 6'4 and 300lbs. Im use to riding a tricked raptor 700 and a screaming eagle vrod.
i have a few questions on this list tho.


2. suspension= i was going to order some suspension from procycle.us but wasnt sure what kit to order. if i should just get the gold valves or do the full fork solution kit? and what springs i should get. .5, .6, .8 or what? or should i just go with something else all together? any suggestions for the rear shock?
The type of riding you plan on doing can make a difference on what you may want to do with your suspension. A couple of things you can do to your forks before you spend big bucks is, as some one has said before, add heavier fork oil. You can also put a spacer made out of PVC pipe, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long, and place it on top of the springs to add some preload. lastly, add a fork brace. This all keeps the ride a bit cushy, lessens the front end dive on breaking, and keeps the front wheel from deflecting. Now if you plan and getting the bike air borne a lot or hammer corners hard and canyon racing, then you'll probably want to consider a USD conversion :)

Actually, the type of riding will probably dictate what kind of mods you want to add.If you are doing mostly trails and back roads and very little black top then a 48 tooth rear sprocket is a good choice and then tun a 15 or 14 CS sprocket depending on how slow you want to go. I find my self on gravel roads, jeep trails, some quad or single track trails and quite a bit of blacktop in between and I prefer the 15/45 combo. But it's open and flat around here so even the two lane highway it's easy to run 70 to 75. If you are trail riding you may be looking at trimming weight, I think there is a whole thread on dropping weight of the XRL. If you plan on doing some camping or traveling then you will want a rear rack and probably some sub frame supports. Check out manracks for those items.

As tall as you are you'll probably find the bars a bit low and the position a bit cramped. Some bar riser and high bend bars help a lot in bot setting and standing position. You can typically go 2 inch risers with high bend bars without changing cables, although I found my clutch cable to be just a little short with the bars locked clear to the right. Wider foot pegs will give you a better platform for your feet. You don't have to go expensive as there are some economical ones on ebay that work good.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:56 AM   #54164
chipbl
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XR650L motor/harness/carb

...On CL for anyone around VA. No relationship to seller, just letting folks know!
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:26 AM   #54165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyoXR View Post
Pretty simple design:





wrapped the punch plate with 4-stroke muffler packing,


Thanks. Looks similar to the design I may be trying in the near future on my 600R muffler. Just looking for ideas.
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Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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