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Old 02-19-2013, 09:11 AM   #54256
elsalvadorklr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
no, not at all. Mine runs just fine. Wana race? My bike is 95% faster than yours, 3% of the time.
^^^^^like
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:40 AM   #54257
bwalsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
My wife has a modular HJC helmet....she only used it a few times over a number of years, and the locking mechanism for the lift up front broke.....so I took it apart to check it out. The locking mechanism is made of super cheap, thin, flimsy plastic that I would NEVER trust to stay closed in ANY kind of impact....hell, it just broke from her using it a few times.
The HJC flip-up is complete junk....stay far far away
I've heard from more than a few sources(owners) that modular helmets will fail when you need it to work the most...

Personally I wouldn't own one.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:47 AM   #54258
purpledrake
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Originally Posted by super samurai View Post
i was rather thinking of keeping the rear sprocket stock tooth count and changing the css to a 14 tooth and be in the range between the 14/45 and the 15/48 stock gears. that way i would be somewhere in the middle range and not have to sacrafice top end for low end.
make any sense
And, if you decide to go down from your current 15T XRR CSS to a 14T version, remember that I have a brand new Primary Drive front sprocket (14T) for your use. (And, you have Dremels galore to make the bloody thing fit!)

PD
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:06 AM   #54259
bwalsh
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Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper View Post
The power of the Farkle Side is strong ...
May the Farkle be with you!
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:35 AM   #54260
Lonestar2112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
The type of riding you plan on doing can make a difference on what you may want to do with your suspension. A couple of things you can do to your forks before you spend big bucks is, as some one has said before, add heavier fork oil. You can also put a spacer made out of PVC pipe, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long, and place it on top of the springs to add some preload. lastly, add a fork brace. This all keeps the ride a bit cushy, lessens the front end dive on breaking, and keeps the front wheel from deflecting. Now if you plan and getting the bike air borne a lot or hammer corners hard and canyon racing, then you'll probably want to consider a USD conversion :)

Actually, the type of riding will probably dictate what kind of mods you want to add.If you are doing mostly trails and back roads and very little black top then a 48 tooth rear sprocket is a good choice and then tun a 15 or 14 CS sprocket depending on how slow you want to go. I find my self on gravel roads, jeep trails, some quad or single track trails and quite a bit of blacktop in between and I prefer the 15/45 combo. But it's open and flat around here so even the two lane highway it's easy to run 70 to 75. If you are trail riding you may be looking at trimming weight, I think there is a whole thread on dropping weight of the XRL. If you plan on doing some camping or traveling then you will want a rear rack and probably some sub frame supports. Check out manracks for those items.

As tall as you are you'll probably find the bars a bit low and the position a bit cramped. Some bar riser and high bend bars help a lot in bot setting and standing position. You can typically go 2 inch risers with high bend bars without changing cables, although I found my clutch cable to be just a little short with the bars locked clear to the right. Wider foot pegs will give you a better platform for your feet. You don't have to go expensive as there are some economical ones on ebay that work good.

I will differ with some of the thoughts above. I am 6'6" 250. If you plan on spending any time on the pegs at all go with a 3.5" + lift on the bars, I did that and installed KX High bars. Spend the $ call motion pro and get the longer choke, clutch cables. The throttle cables are long enough when rerouted. At 300 lbs even with a fork brace you will feel the forks twist if you are agressive at all. I am doing the CRFx fork swap. While you are at it change out the foot pegs to a wider one. I run a 14 tooth up front for most times, unless there is a long street ride then I will install a 15.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:30 AM   #54261
dcparks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post


Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I will take SpudRider's advice, and have SuperSamurai tack weld the XRR CSS to the countershaft. This will prevent any unnecessary "wobble" (technical term). After I weld the CSS on, the only way to remove the chain will be to break it, correct? (Break = remove the master link) In other words, the chain cannot be slipped over the CSS, can it?
First, thanks again to spud, purpledrake, and others for the CSS wisdom. We are truly blessed. I am still waiting for my Moose XRR CSS (bugger, wish i had ordered a 15T now, plus i could have walked to Oregon and back by now). Anyway,

Purpledrake, how well does the CSS fit? is there any play, (or "wobble" to use the correct tehnical term) evident now?

BTW, feel free to stop by on your way up island if you come through Vic.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:00 PM   #54262
ONandOFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post
... How does one decide if the chain is too short? ... On&Off often posts a great graphic, which shows how to properly adjust the chain (putting tension on the rear suspension...). Isn't any chain size "correct" in the sense that if chain tension is properly set, then all is well?? ....
Yes, PD; your reasoning is correct. If you can just relieve the tension at the maximum sprocket separation, that is where the sprocket centerlines form a line with the swingarm centerline, then your chain is optimally set and it is not too short. The caveat to the "any size correct" assertion is that if you find the adjusters close to coming off the rear of the swingarm under the above condition, then the chain, although fine at the moment, may be too long to allow further adjustment once the chain stretches a bit.
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:07 PM   #54263
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Originally Posted by mendoteach View Post
... It won't make you faster on a fire road, though you will fell like it. ...
In that case, better not. I hate falling on fire roads...
















Sorry... couldn't resist picking on getting the wrong word...

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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:30 PM   #54264
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purpledrake View Post


Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I will take SpudRider's advice, and have SuperSamurai tack weld the XRR CSS to the countershaft. This will prevent any unnecessary "wobble" (technical term). After I weld the CSS on, the only way to remove the chain will be to break it, correct? (Break = remove the master link) In other words, the chain cannot be slipped over the CSS, can it?
Gaaaa!


If you are gonna bird shit it on, there isn't any point in using an XRR sprocket as the spline interface is irrelevant at that point. (sorry... welded on sprockets are still a sore spot for me)
I have a once welded 15T sprokie that I'll let you have for the cost of shopping!
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Originally Posted by Cigar Mike :With plastic buy two.
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ThumpnRed screwed with this post 02-19-2013 at 12:36 PM
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Old 02-19-2013, 12:36 PM   #54265
ONandOFF
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Originally Posted by thumpnred View Post
gaaaa! .... (sorry... Welded on sprockets are still a sore spot for me)
+1
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Let's ride!!! - No offense, but there've been a lot of people over time who were just as sure, yet got it wrong. - Una necedad, aunque la repitan millones de bocas, no deja de ser una necedad. - "you know that I could have me a million more friends and all I'd have to lose is my point of view" (Prine)
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:05 PM   #54266
marlinjames
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suspension

Alrighty im going to re do my suspension. before i buy the fork solution kit with the .80 springs. http://procycle.us/bikepages/xr650l.html
i wanted to see if a fork swap all together is a better idea or what. id hate to spend 300 to rebuild what i have when its still junk and theres something better
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:10 PM   #54267
ThumpnRed
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Originally Posted by marlinjames View Post
Alrighty im going to re do my suspension. before i buy the fork solution kit with the .80 springs. http://procycle.us/bikepages/xr650l.html
i wanted to see if a fork swap all together is a better idea or what. id hate to spend 300 to rebuild what i have when its still junk and theres something better
That's a loaded question. Let the opinions fly...

My vote is for a USD swap
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:15 PM   #54268
XR650L_Dave
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If a USD swap is price-comparable with a fork rebuild, that is one of the worlds top no-brainers.
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Old 02-19-2013, 01:25 PM   #54269
marlinjames
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Usd swap?

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Old 02-19-2013, 01:31 PM   #54270
mcma111
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Originally Posted by marlinjames View Post
Usd swap?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

U Up, S Side, D Down

As in installing CRF forks on your XRL


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