XRL owners sign in.

[bwalsh]

Originally Posted by Sierra Thumper

The power of the Farkle Side is strong ...

May the Farkle be with you!

[Lonestar2112]

Originally Posted by JWhitmore44

The type of riding you plan on doing can make a difference on what you may want to do with your suspension. A couple of things you can do to your forks before you spend big bucks is, as some one has said before, add heavier fork oil. You can also put a spacer made out of PVC pipe, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long, and place it on top of the springs to add some preload. lastly, add a fork brace. This all keeps the ride a bit cushy, lessens the front end dive on breaking, and keeps the front wheel from deflecting. Now if you plan and getting the bike air borne a lot or hammer corners hard and canyon racing, then you'll probably want to consider a USD conversion :)

Actually, the type of riding will probably dictate what kind of mods you want to add.If you are doing mostly trails and back roads and very little black top then a 48 tooth rear sprocket is a good choice and then tun a 15 or 14 CS sprocket depending on how slow you want to go. I find my self on gravel roads, jeep trails, some quad or single track trails and quite a bit of blacktop in between and I prefer the 15/45 combo. But it's open and flat around here so even the two lane highway it's easy to run 70 to 75. If you are trail riding you may be looking at trimming weight, I think there is a whole thread on dropping weight of the XRL. If you plan on doing some camping or traveling then you will want a rear rack and probably some sub frame supports. Check out manracks for those items.

As tall as you are you'll probably find the bars a bit low and the position a bit cramped. Some bar riser and high bend bars help a lot in bot setting and standing position. You can typically go 2 inch risers with high bend bars without changing cables, although I found my clutch cable to be just a little short with the bars locked clear to the right. Wider foot pegs will give you a better platform for your feet. You don't have to go expensive as there are some economical ones on ebay that work good.

I will differ with some of the thoughts above. I am 6'6" 250. If you plan on spending any time on the pegs at all go with a 3.5" + lift on the bars, I did that and installed KX High bars. Spend the $ call motion pro and get the longer choke, clutch cables. The throttle cables are long enough when rerouted. At 300 lbs even with a fork brace you will feel the forks twist if you are agressive at all. I am doing the CRFx fork swap. While you are at it change out the foot pegs to a wider one. I run a 14 tooth up front for most times, unless there is a long street ride then I will install a 15.

[dcparks]

Originally Posted by purpledrake

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I will take SpudRider's advice, and have SuperSamurai tack weld the XRR CSS to the countershaft. This will prevent any unnecessary "wobble" (technical term). After I weld the CSS on, the only way to remove the chain will be to break it, correct? (Break = remove the master link) In other words, the chain cannot be slipped over the CSS, can it?

First, thanks again to spud, purpledrake, and others for the CSS wisdom. We are truly blessed. I am still waiting for my Moose XRR CSS (bugger, wish i had ordered a 15T now, plus i could have walked to Oregon and back by now). Anyway,

Purpledrake, how well does the CSS fit? is there any play, (or "wobble" to use the correct tehnical term) evident now?

BTW, feel free to stop by on your way up island if you come through Vic.

[ONandOFF]

Originally Posted by purpledrake

... How does one decide if the chain is too short? ... On&Off often posts a great graphic, which shows how to properly adjust the chain (putting tension on the rear suspension...). Isn't any chain size "correct" in the sense that if chain tension is properly set, then all is well?? ....

Yes, PD; your reasoning is correct. If you can just relieve the tension at the maximum sprocket separation, that is where the sprocket centerlines form a line with the swingarm centerline, then your chain is optimally set and it is not too short. The caveat to the "any size correct" assertion is that if you find the adjusters close to coming off the rear of the swingarm under the above condition, then the chain, although fine at the moment, may be too long to allow further adjustment once the chain stretches a bit.

[ONandOFF]

Originally Posted by mendoteach

... It won't make you faster on a fire road, though you will fell like it. ...

In that case, better not. I hate falling on fire roads...
















Sorry... couldn't resist picking on getting the wrong word...

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by purpledrake

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I will take SpudRider's advice, and have SuperSamurai tack weld the XRR CSS to the countershaft. This will prevent any unnecessary "wobble" (technical term). After I weld the CSS on, the only way to remove the chain will be to break it, correct? (Break = remove the master link) In other words, the chain cannot be slipped over the CSS, can it?

Gaaaa!


If you are gonna bird shit it on, there isn't any point in using an XRR sprocket as the spline interface is irrelevant at that point. (sorry... welded on sprockets are still a sore spot for me)
I have a once welded 15T sprokie that I'll let you have for the cost of shopping!

[ONandOFF]

Originally Posted by thumpnred

gaaaa! .... (sorry... Welded on sprockets are still a sore spot for me)

+1

[marlinjames]

Alrighty im going to re do my suspension. before i buy the fork solution kit with the .80 springs. http://procycle.us/bikepages/xr650l.html
i wanted to see if a fork swap all together is a better idea or what. id hate to spend 300 to rebuild what i have when its still junk and theres something better

[ThumpnRed]

Originally Posted by marlinjames

Alrighty im going to re do my suspension. before i buy the fork solution kit with the .80 springs. http://procycle.us/bikepages/xr650l.html
i wanted to see if a fork swap all together is a better idea or what. id hate to spend 300 to rebuild what i have when its still junk and theres something better

That's a loaded question. Let the opinions fly...

My vote is for a USD swap

[XR650L_Dave]

If a USD swap is price-comparable with a fork rebuild, that is one of the worlds top no-brainers.

[marlinjames]

Usd swap?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[mcma111]

Originally Posted by marlinjames

Usd swap?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

U Up, S Side, D Down

As in installing CRF forks on your XRL

[AZ TOM]

Has anyone replaced their stock shock with one of these Ricor shocks?

[EOKYLE]

I was wondering if anybody has every mounted something up like this on their piggy? I saw a lot of guys use them on snowmobiles and use oven bags so there is no leakage. I was thinking maybe a guy could mount it against the muffler above the tire and take it off when not in use. Any ideas guys?


Thanks,
Kyle

[marlinjames]

What do crf forks go for? And what else would I have to buy to make them fit? And just buy those and they're good to go. They don't need gold valves oil or springs?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2