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Old 03-07-2013, 12:33 PM   #55486
elsalvadorklr
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: el salvador
Oddometer: 4,076
I would buy them in a heartbeat

I made some stainless pegs for my klr a long time ago...no drawings nothing just some fancy language at the welders jajaja

I got back some stainless SHOES 3times the size of the stock pegs and deep as hell

they sure lasted and felt great, but they weighed a pound each! jajajajajajajaja

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Old 03-07-2013, 12:42 PM   #55487
Ray Paul
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I don't know how many gorrilas could stand on those stainless pegs but those ars the cleanest, best looking pegs i'v seen. Looks like something you would see on a Factory bike. I like them!!!
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:50 PM   #55488
techforlife
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Location: Moncton,New Brunswick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosley1980 View Post
It is welded and the construction is strong and meticulous. One builds on the other, it is very stable. If you bend under its own weight - no bullshit money back.
I never had returned single piece, it would be bent.

I am working with sheet every day for 10 years. Steel itself is soft, but this is a tough stainless steel and will be loaded to buckling!



A) There is a model of Pic.1 and 2 load force F=200kg active at one area at the end (impossible variant of load) deflection according to scale...



B) This time load to surface again force F=200kg force acts on the surface (on top of the teeth) simulation load shoe (simulation load boot (wing loading)

Wait who weighs 400 kg :-)

They are probably fine....but fully welding in the angled ramp is what i`d do...probably unnecesssary though...

They are well made.......and nice looking too...very impressed with the design Radan..

B

B
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:55 PM   #55489
taco250
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Location: LaGrange, GA
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Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
I'm right here. Was over checking Baja ride reports.

I bought a XRR throttle assy and cables for my XRR carb. They are different.

If you want pictures it'll have to wait till this afternoon when I get home.
Happy to wait for the pictorial.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:59 PM   #55490
fritzcoinc
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Location: Cypress, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bosley1980 View Post
It is welded and the construction is strong and meticulous. One builds on the other, it is very stable. If you bend under its own weight - no bullshit money back.
I never had returned single piece, it would be bent.

I am working with sheet every day for 10 years. Steel itself is soft, but this is a tough stainless steel and will be loaded to buckling!



A) There is a model of Pic.1 and 2 load force F=200kg active at one area at the end (impossible variant of load) deflection according to scale...



B) This time load to surface again force F=200kg force acts on the surface (on top of the teeth) simulation load shoe (simulation load boot (wing loading)

Wait who weighs 400 kg :-)
Can you make a set at OEM width? I don't particullary care for wide foot rest. Teeth are good. And can I have them made of 17-4PH?
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fritzcoinc screwed with this post 03-07-2013 at 01:06 PM
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:05 PM   #55491
fritzcoinc
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Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
Partaking, it would seem.
Provocative fellow... often subtle. Slippery when wet.

Rarely misses a chance to

Entertaining, once you 'get' him

Considering your VAST experience and inter galactic back round, I'll take that as a complement.

Tell me, is it true that in your life time, you have worn out more screw drivers than you have socks? I heard that somewhere. or maybe read it somewhere.

Look how his eyes follow you around the room:

ONandOFF. age 137.






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96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:31 PM   #55492
ltcole
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Location: Everywhere, NM
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Lowering link

Finally got around to removing the silly lowering link (Devol) that was on my bike when I bought it..... I like the stock height a LOT more. I can still flat foot it with no problem.

I have one question though..... With the lowering link installed, the suspension felt super soft and seemed like it wanted to dip and dive all the time, and also seemed like it had a lot of "play" in the rear suspension when unloaded. With the stock link installed the suspension firmed up and took away all the "play" that seemed to be there when no weight was applied.

Ok, now the question....
Does this sound right, or should I try to hunt someone down to help me measure the preload and make some adjustments?

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:43 PM   #55493
mcma111
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Yes and yes
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:01 PM   #55494
ltcole
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Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Yes and yes
Ok, I can't seem to find any information in the 1993 service manual that I have on adjusting or measuring the preload....

Any tips, specifications you can share Steve?
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:15 PM   #55495
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltcole View Post
Ok, I can't seem to find any information in the 1993 service manual that I have on adjusting or measuring the preload....

Any tips, specifications you can share Steve?
I'll try.
Look in the specification section in the front of the manual, page 1-11. To set pre load you measure the overall length of the spring while assembled in the shock with the bike on the stand, suspension fully extended. It should be 7.7 to 8.1 inches. Measure with a thin metal, machinist, ruller. If you weight in at 180 or so adjust spring to 8" if you are a big dog, set spring length at 7.5". The factory setting is 7 7/8"



Also check that the tops of the fork tubes are flush with the top of the top triple clamp.

After this setting, take the bike off the stand, and sit on the bike. The front and rear suspension should compress at the same rate. Re adjust rear spring till this happens keeping trhe spring length with in specification.

Then go for a ride with your normal load of riding stuff and super tune the rear spring to your liking.

After this exercise, we will help you get your forks sorted.

And DON'T let this happen to you:
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96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7

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Old 03-07-2013, 02:17 PM   #55496
Mossy-Back
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Location: Corvallis, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltcole View Post
Ok, I can't seem to find any information in the 1993 service manual that I have on adjusting or measuring the preload....

Any tips, specifications you can share Steve?
I would start by adjusting the sag... 4" in the rear
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:25 PM   #55497
roco
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: southern ca
Oddometer: 5
tat

how was tat ? i have done it from moab to oregon. started from ca and made 3500 milles within 11 days. more pavement than dirt since rainy weather. did you have gps tracks or roll charts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by onaXR View Post
I have done a few 400 to 450 mile days all slab. A couple of 300 mile combo slab/gravel/dirt days. Have a big ride planned for the spring on part of the T/A trail this spring.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:30 PM   #55498
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Falcon View Post
I would start by adjusting the sag... 4" in the rear
Sag measurements should only be used for boobs.
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96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:41 PM   #55499
ltcole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
I'll try.
Look in the specification section in the front of the manual, page 1-11. To set pre load you measure the overall length of the spring while assembled in the shock with the bike on the stand, suspension fully extended. It should be 7.7 to 8.1 inches. Measure with a thin metal, machinist, ruller. If you weight in at 180 or so adjust spring to 8" if you are a big dog, set spring length at 7.5". The factory setting is 7 7/8" Found!!!!

Also check that the tops of the fork tubes are flush with the top of the top triple clamp. Always have been.

After this setting, take the bike off the stand, and sit on the bike. The front and rear suspension should compress at the same rate. Re adjust rear spring till this happens keeping trhe spring length with in specification.

Then go for a ride with your normal load of riding stuff and super tune the rear spring to your liking. I already like the way it handles as compared to before. I will take some measurements and check everything out.
Thanks Fritz.

My thinking is that the PO didn't make any other adjustments besides just installing the lowering link. So with that being said, I am assuming (yes I know what that can mean) that the suspension is still all setup to factory original.

All the other adjustments are still at factory (front and rear compression damping).....
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:52 PM   #55500
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltcole View Post
Thanks Fritz.

My thinking is that the PO didn't make any other adjustments besides just installing the lowering link. So with that being said, I am assuming (yes I know what that can mean) that the suspension is still all setup to factory original.

All the other adjustments are still at factory (front and rear compression damping).....

You are welcome

Let us know how it all turns out.
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