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Old 03-11-2013, 11:54 AM   #55906
marlinjames
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fork springs

I just got my new fork springs today. thinking it should be a easy install since it's just springs and oil. but the directions make it sound complicated. should just be pull the old spring out measure the preload spacer thats in it. and put the new spring and spacers in right?
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:00 PM   #55907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marlinjames View Post
I just got my new fork springs today. thinking it should be a easy install since it's just springs and oil. but the directions make it sound complicated. should just be pull the old spring out measure the preload spacer thats in it. and put the new spring and spacers in right?
Yes, that's correct. However, unless the fork oil has been changed recently, you really ought to change the fork oil as well.



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Old 03-11-2013, 12:10 PM   #55908
marlinjames
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oil

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Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Yes, that's correct. However, unless the fork oil has been changed recently, you really ought to change the fork oil as well.



Spud
its all bone stock and has never been touched. it has about 3500 miles on it. so i figured the oil needed changed, i bought two 1L things of 10w oil. how much oil do these things take?
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:39 PM   #55909
taco250
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fork seals?

On fork seals, I know Steve advises OEM but has anyone had good luck with the aftermarket varieties listed at RM/ATV? If I go with OEM, which online store has best combo of price & service? I've used RM/ATV for lots of other stuff over the years but none of it was OEM parts.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:42 PM   #55910
mcma111
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I have had good luck with MSR and Moose fork seals. Both are triple lipped.
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Old 03-11-2013, 12:46 PM   #55911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taco250 View Post
On fork seals, I know Steve advises OEM but has anyone had good luck with the aftermarket varieties listed at RM/ATV? If I go with OEM, which online store has best combo of price & service? I've used RM/ATV for lots of other stuff over the years but none of it was OEM parts.
The Honda, front fork, seal set for the XR650L is $18.02 at Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. RM ATV/MC is also discounting all OEM parts by 25 percent at this time. Therefore, you can get an OEM seal set for $13.52.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/1

You don't change the fork seal set very often. I prefer to stick with OEM fork seals and dust wipers, unless the price is exorbitant.

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Old 03-11-2013, 01:28 PM   #55912
fritzcoinc
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DIY, how to, forks

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Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Presented by: FRITZCOINC

Loosen the top triple clamp bolts . Leave bottom ones tight. Break loose the fork tube top cap and the damping adjusters at the bottom of each leg. Just break them loose while spring tension helps hold back-up.



Remove wheel, brake caliper, brake hose clamp, and speedo cable clamp. Loosen the lower triple clamp bolts while holding the fork leg ( I have seen the fork fall out when the bolts are loosened ). You may need to tap a flat blade screw drive into the split in the triple clamps to get the fork out. Unscrew the top cap. Loosen it from the dampener rod.


There is a shim on top of the spring.


remove the springs and check thier length. The dimension is in the service manual. Also inspect the spring ends for the coils to be unwinding ( Bigger diameter at end ).


Drain the oil. Stroke the dampening rods and cpmpress the fork to get all the oil out.


Remove boots, remove dampening adjusters.


Pull out the dampeners.


Drive the wiper seal off with small screw driver. Hose down top of seal with WD40 or alike. Hook out spring clip with suitable tool.




Use slider as a slide hammer and knock out the seal. Here's all apart.


Close up of wiper ( to the left out of view, spring clip, seal, back up washer, slider bearing, and tube bearing still on tube.


Spread tube bearing and slide off. Thats the spring seat in the bottom of the tube.


To the wash rack! Gunk, scrub, rinse, spray down with oil, compressed air dry.


Misc. fixing screwed up stuff.


Flush out dampeners by stroking the dampener in a cup of solvent.



Detail of small bits. Note the needle adjusting screw will screw out of the bolt.


CLEAN all clamping surfaces and CLEAN the clamp threads and bolts.








To assemble, put new bearing on tube. Apply fork oil to inside of slider. Put tube in slider. Then put in slider bearing, back up ring, seal and spring clip. You will need a decent tool to drive in the bearing and seal. Use the old bearing to drive the new one fully home. The seal tool must fully support the face of the seal or the seal will distort or roll and leak. Same goes for the wiper seal. Silicone grease makes seal installation much easer. Most folk pack inside of seaing face with grease. I use silicone grease for this. Drop in spring seat and dampener. Screw in adjuster bolt with new seal ring from bottom and tighten.

With tube all the way down in slider, fill each leg with 20 oz of fork oil. Stroke dampeners till full stroke is smooth. You will need that pc. of wire to hold dampening rod up while putting spring in. But not yet. Stroke the dampening rods slowly as oil will squirt out the top.



Set air gap gage to desired length ( air gap dimension ).



Using this tool suck out the extra oil. Both air gaps will be very close to same.



Insert spring and hold dampening rod extended with wire and fish the wire up through the center of the spring or reach through spring with needle nose and grab dampening then screw spring down into fork. Extend the fork holding the dampening rod, screw on fork cap and tighten top cap, dont forget shim washer.





Screw top cap into tube. Install forks in triples and snug bolts. Check alinement of tubes by laying a flat instrument ( two foot carpenters level sideways or I use a small granite slab ) across both tubes. Drift top clamp with dead blow hammer till flat instrument lays flat and does not rock at all. Carefully loosen clamp bolts and remove forks. Install boots. Re-install foks in triple clamps and tighten lower bolts. Slightly snug top bolts. Tighten top cap in triple clamps with only lower bolts tight. Then tighten top bolts. Torque all bolts to spec. a little at a time so as to aviod twisting the triple clamp sections.

This post should be provide hours of discussion.
Here's apretty good " how to" on fork fixing.
Agree, don't change the seals just for the sake of changing.
No pre load spacers should be needed if you purchased springs for your weight. Add pre-load spacers 1" at a time and same length in both legs.
Yes, change the oil often.
Bleed the dampeners and use the air gap method to fill the forks with oil.Start with 20 oz in each leg, then suck off the extra down to the desired air gap dimension. 100 to 130 MM is the accepted range for the air gap in these forks.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:33 PM   #55913
taco250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
DIY, how to, forks



Here's apretty good " how to" on fork fixing.
Agree, don't change the seals just for the sake of changing.
Yes, change the oil often.
Bleed the dampeners and use the air gap method to fill the forks with oil.Start with 20 oz in each leg, then suck off the extra down to the desired air gap dimension. 100 to 130 MM is the accepted range for the air gap in these forks.
I have one that's been leaking for a while so it's time. Mine is a 94 and I've had it a couple years but the PO said it had been parked a couple prior to selling. I've never done the fork oil so its time.

Thanks for the pics on the fork service. I also watched the vid Spud posted a while back. I've done fork oil change before on several other bikes already but never had to do seals. Looks pretty straight-forward.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:38 PM   #55914
fritzcoinc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taco250 View Post
I have one that's been leaking for a while so it's time. Mine is a 94 and I've had it a couple years but the PO said it had been parked a couple prior to selling. I've never done the fork oil so its time.

Thanks for the pics on the fork service. I also watched the vid Spud posted a while back. I've done fork oil change before on several other bikes already but never had to do seals. Looks pretty straight-forward.

I think the most critical thing is to have a very good seal driver. The seal needs to be fully supported by the driver. If the seal distorts or rolls during installation your screwed ( leak baby leak ). I also strongly recomend statring out with zero pre load and adjusting the air gap. If a smaller air gap dosen't help handling and front end dive then add pre load.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:41 PM   #55915
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Taco... Have you tried the old trick of using a piece of film negative to slide between the seal and the leg to remove the grit that might be causing the leak? I have been amazed at how many times this has actually worked for me.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:43 PM   #55916
fritzcoinc
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Originally Posted by my6 View Post
Taco... Have you tried the old trick of using a piece of film negative to slide between the seal and the leg to remove the grit that might be causing the leak? I have been amazed at how many times this has actually worked for me.
Hey, thats a good way to get rid of some of that old school porn thats been laying around.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:50 PM   #55917
my6
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What? And ruin my collection? Pm'd ya...
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:56 PM   #55918
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Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
I'm not picking on you, just a personal issue of mine I cringe whenever I hear it.. Im guessing the fairing is going to have soem flex to it so you are going to need a paint with a flex agent in it to keep it from cracking. I would suggest you go to a local autobody paint supply shop. They may have a prpfessional product in a spray can that will suit your needs.. If color is not to much of an issue, say black or white, try the local body shop. see what they will charge you if you leave it and they spray it the next time they are doing a car of that color.. Often they will shoot it for just a few bucks
That's a good idea. I'll run it down to the local body shop and see what they say about it.
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:57 PM   #55919
mcma111
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W... Reccommended oil is 7w, not 10w
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 03-11-2013, 02:02 PM   #55920
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So, based on people's experiences here which is better? OEM style fork boots, or the velcro-style fork skins?

The velcro skins would be nice because you can easily install/remove without messing with the forks if you need to clean them out, but I'm not sure if they work as well as the OEM boots... Cost about the same, so what do y'all think?
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figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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