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Old 03-28-2013, 12:28 PM   #56986
LexLeroy
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Lexington, KY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmagnum View Post
I have all day tomorrow to pull the bike electrics apart.

It's going to be an epic battle of emotions and head scratching.

Being English, I will consuming A LOT of tea as it is the only way to combat times of difficulty
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:08 PM   #56987
tedmagnum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexLeroy View Post
Exactly !!!
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:20 PM   #56988
mrfixit54016
Wisconsin Dual Sporter
 
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Hudson, WI
Oddometer: 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Anybody want this thing? It's a deal to make a clutch lever easer to pull. For the wifes or girl friends bike maybe? Swap for a pocket knife or similar.

Fritz

If you still have this and it is complete, My brother could really use it. It would be his last ditch effort before spending the cash on a hydraulic clutch for his DR. PM a cost and how you would like payment.

Thanks
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:42 PM   #56989
taco250
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: LaGrange, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmagnum View Post
I have all day tomorrow to pull the bike electrics apart.

It's going to be an epic battle of emotions and head scratching.

Being English, I will consuming A LOT of tea as it is the only way to combat times of difficulty
Some here might advocate a bottomless pint of Guinness as a more soothing beverage.

Not me of course!
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:44 PM   #56990
fritzcoinc
Enjoying my last V8
 
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Cypress, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfixit54016 View Post
Fritz

If you still have this and it is complete, My brother could really use it. It would be his last ditch effort before spending the cash on a hydraulic clutch for his DR. PM a cost and how you would like payment.

Thanks
Super, all it needs is a pivot pin. I'll get one fur it. Send me your info and of course post info on proposed trade item for Collective to pruse and approve. LOL
Pm me when you have time.
Fritz
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96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:47 PM   #56991
fritzcoinc
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Location: Cypress, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
I agree on all points. In particular, thanks for posting the good information regarding the engine stop switch.

Many bikes with AC-CDI systems use the engine stop switch to kill the engine by grounding the output from the CDI unit. These switches are open in the "run" position, and divert the CDI output to ground in the "stop" position. Therefore, if the engine stop switch gets dirty, it doesn't cause ignition problems, because these switches are solely designed to kill the engine.

However, the XR650L employs a DC-CDI unit. Looking at the XR650L wiring diagram, it appears the engine stop switch provides 12V+ to the CDI unit when it is in the "run" position, and kills the engine by disconnecting power from the CDI unit when it is in the "off" position. Therefore, if the engine stop switch gets sufficiently dirty, it will not provide enough DC power for the CDI unit to operate properly.

One needs to make sure the engine stop switch is clean, in addition to testing the ignition coil, pulse generator, and spark plug, before he assumes the CDI unit is bad.

Spud
Skip the labor pains and just give me the baby.

Fix: Keep the kill switch clean for proper operation of the CDI unit as the kill switch is in the power feed to the CDI.
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86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:05 PM   #56992
fritzcoinc
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Cypress, Tx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfixit54016 View Post
Fritz

If you still have this and it is complete, My brother could really use it. It would be his last ditch effort before spending the cash on a hydraulic clutch for his DR. PM a cost and how you would like payment.

Thanks
Wait a minute! Stop the music!
Your bro. is not liking his DR's clutch? Those things have a clutch pull like a single hole paper punch. Go over there and clean and lube the lever and cable first.
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96 XR650L, 96 Guzzi Sport, 07 BMW K1200GT,
86 Husky 400 XCE, 00 Husky Te 610 e, 1999 Husky TC610 SM, 2000 Cagiva GC; Google: TX7
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:51 PM   #56993
techforlife
CDI REPAIR
 
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Moncton,New Brunswick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Wait a minute! Stop the music!
Your bro. is not liking his DR's clutch? Those things have a clutch pull like a single hole paper punch. Go over there and clean and lube the lever and cable first.
Shut the hell up Fritz.........FFS.......you are one freekin lousy salesman..

You are supposed to tell them AFTER you sell them something they don`t need..

I see why you are so poor now,geeeezzzzzzzzzzzussssss
















B
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:59 PM   #56994
Ray Paul
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Location: Midway Louisiana
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Fritz, what kind of ds riding you have around there ? Ya'll ever get up any rides in your area ?
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:33 PM   #56995
mrfixit54016
Wisconsin Dual Sporter
 
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Joined: Jan 2008
Location: Hudson, WI
Oddometer: 609
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Wait a minute! Stop the music!
Your bro. is not liking his DR's clutch? Those things have a clutch pull like a single hole paper punch. Go over there and clean and lube the lever and cable first.
He is weak and has girly hands and works for a software company. But at least he tries to ride.
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:56 PM   #56996
Sycklemotor
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Eureka, Missouri
Oddometer: 107
2007 XR650L project

I recently purchased a 2007 XRL that I plan to tear down to the frame and build a new bike my way.I have purchased the Emig triple clamps and a set of 2003 CRF450R forks. What I'm wondering is if anyone on the forum has advice for fork set up. My intention was to rebuild the fork but I am unsure about spring rates etc.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
I will also be selling off the stock front end,wheels, bodywork,tank,speedo- just about everything but the frame and motor. If anyone has interest you can call me at 314-277-8744. I will be listing those in the classifieds soon.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:13 PM   #56997
marlinjames
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Joined: Feb 2013
Location: Olympia, WA
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Try racetech.com they're good guys

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Old 03-28-2013, 08:12 PM   #56998
ONandOFF
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Joined: Aug 2009
Location: Shenandoah Valley riding wonderland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmagnum View Post
I have all day tomorrow to pull the bike electrics apart. It's going to be an epic battle of emotions and head scratching. ...
No need for emotions and head scratching. Verify the CDI unit is getting good, solid power on the B/W supply lead (via the ignition switch - ign. fuse - run/stop switch) and the Y/R (via ign. sw. - headlight fuse - start button) at the unit, and a solid ground connection on both the solid green and G/W (via neutral and stand safeties) wires - those conditions need to be met as it's cranking. Once those four are verified, check continuity of the B/Y connection from the CDI to the coil primary, and the coil ground. Inspect the coil and high-tension lead for cracks & cuts, then if all looks good, try a known good CDI unit. That leaves the crank position sensor and wiring, and the coil itself which could possibly suffer an internal open or short. So next step would be to add a known good coil, then finally check out the crank position sensor / verify with known good.
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:16 PM   #56999
Barron
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
Oddometer: 2,263
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
If your worried about a dry start up just crank the engine with the run switch in the off position. The oil will get pumped to the top end. Switch to run and away you go.
Just what I was looking for! Thanks again man!

-Barron
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:36 PM   #57000
Barron
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Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmagnum View Post
I have all day tomorrow to pull the bike electrics apart.

It's going to be an epic battle of emotions and head scratching.

Being English, I will consuming A LOT of tea as it is the only way to combat times of difficulty
Make sure the wires are intact from the pulse generator coming out of the right crankcase cover. Then check the resistance on it. I don't have my manual with me or I'd give you the spec for it. There is probably a really easy way to test whether or not that thing is starting the spark chain of events... but again I don't have my manual with me. Hopefully one of the fine gentlemen here will post up what you need...You might want to make sure your wires and connectors are securely attached (the ground under the seat and the negative from the battery to the engine (next to the starter) are a couple important ones)

FWIW, I would go with Guinness instead of tea, after all, Guinness is good for you!

-Barron
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Barron screwed with this post 03-28-2013 at 08:44 PM
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