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Old 04-03-2013, 08:04 PM   #57301
Mossy-Back
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Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Corvallis, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave View Post
Mine has that buzz, been tracking it for years. It happens at a certain RPM, no matter the speed, even stationary in neutral.
Yep. Sounds the same as mine. Might just start removing stuff till it goes away. Lol
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2013 Husqvarna Strada
'93 XR650L (Gone, but missed)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
figures...my stud was rusty I played with my nuts a little and it cranked right over
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:09 PM   #57302
marlinjames
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Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
Half priced and shipped?

Boy, you sure drive a hard bargain.
lol its $10 a gallon and shipping it from cali will probably be $10.

I had 5 gallons of pine sol at work so im letting it sit over night with pinesol in it after I gave it a good rinse with the garden hose
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:21 PM   #57303
Spud Rider
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Location: Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boboneleg View Post
Hi,

at the moment I need a ladder to climb aboard my 2000 model XR650L, can you recommend a good lowering link, there seem to be a few out there (devol, kouba, xr's only), which one is best?

cheers, Bob.
I like my Performance Designs lowering link. It's reasonably priced, has two grease zerks, and comes with excellent bushings installed.

http://www.performance-design.net/pe...suspension.htm





Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:28 PM   #57304
kenny61
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I need to replace my rear wheel bearings. A quick google search shows someone has at least tried what I was thinking



anyone here have any results to as if it was worth it or not?
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:31 PM   #57305
marlinjames
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny61 View Post
I need to replace my rear wheel bearings. A quick google search shows someone has at least tried what I was thinking



anyone here have any results to as if it was worth it or not?
The zirt fitting is a awesome idea! I'm interested to see people's experience

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Old 04-03-2013, 10:30 PM   #57306
Barron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redclayrider View Post

Pine-Sol works good on carbs. As long as the gaskets are rubber and not torn, you can soak the gaskets too. The Pine-Sol will make them like new.
Pine Sol worked AWESOME on the carb I cleaned up using it, took all the crap right off down to the metal. I was VERY happy with the results....

but...I may have let mine soak too long. When I did my carb it made the rubber swell up so the two diaphragms no longer fit. After a week or two they went back to normal though, but it freaked me out that I was going to have to pay about 200 bucks to replace those two parts. YMMV

-Barron
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Barron screwed with this post 04-03-2013 at 10:46 PM
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:24 PM   #57307
Spud Rider
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I moved my tool tube higher. I like the new placement.









I quickly got it dirty.











Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:28 PM   #57308
marlinjames
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barron View Post
Pine Sol worked AWESOME on the carb I cleaned up using it, took all the crap right off down to the metal. I was VERY happy with the results....

but...I may have let mine soak too long. When I did my carb it made the rubber swell up so the two diaphragms no longer fit. After a week or two they went back to normal though, but it freaked me out that I was going to have to pay about 200 bucks to replace those two parts. YMMV

-Barron
I haven't got to the carb yet, do you think the pinesol will work in removing rust from the tank?
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Old 04-03-2013, 11:40 PM   #57309
Captain115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barron View Post
Pine Sol worked AWESOME on the carb I cleaned up using it, took all the crap right off down to the metal. I was VERY happy with the results....

but...I may have let mine soak too long. When I did my carb it made the rubber swell up so the two diaphragms no longer fit. After a week or two they went back to normal though, but it freaked me out that I was going to have to pay about 200 bucks to replace those two parts. YMMV

-Barron
Funny you say that, the exact same thing happened to me when I was cleaning a friend's carbs for his Spada (naked VTR250 Interceptor). Sprayed them all with carb cleaner, left it too long and the diaphragms swelled up. Must've been due to the oil in them disappearing.

I just rubbed some engine oil on them and they were back to normal in an hour or so. For future reference!

John
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:09 AM   #57310
Barron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marlinjames View Post
I haven't got to the carb yet, do you think the pinesol will work in removing rust from the tank?
I have to guess here because I don't know for sure, but that guess is a no. There is a thread on this site with lots of people using pine sol to remove oil and crud, but I don't remember seeing anyone use it for rust removal.

-Barron
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:12 AM   #57311
Barron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain115 View Post
Funny you say that, the exact same thing happened to me when I was cleaning a friend's carbs for his Spada (naked VTR250 Interceptor). Sprayed them all with carb cleaner, left it too long and the diaphragms swelled up. Must've been due to the oil in them disappearing.

I just rubbed some engine oil on them and they were back to normal in an hour or so. For future reference!

John
Good to know!
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:50 AM   #57312
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
A KLR part on the mighty XRL. Sacrilege I tell you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumpnRed View Post
You will also get an urge to put a purple seat on your bike!




Must...get...purple...seat...

Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil

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Old 04-04-2013, 03:38 AM   #57313
Hazman27
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Location: St. Louis, MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post




Must...get...purple...seat...

Spud
Hey Spud, I have two MSR (fuel and oil) bottles tucked in under the side panel where my battery box used to be, what about hanging your tube there? I guess I just never like the idea of putting anything behind the front wheel. What kind of 'silencer' do you have inside the tube to keep the rattle down? Rags, tool wrap, foam?
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:44 AM   #57314
rufus
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Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Coweta Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marlinjames View Post
The zirt fitting is a awesome idea! I'm interested to see people's experience

Samsung Galaxy S3

I did it on a couple of hubs 30 years ago. If you ride in a lot of mud and water it will keep things clean. If not, sealed bearings work fine. It takes a lot of grease to fill up a hub and is a big mess when you do change bearings.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:19 AM   #57315
ONandOFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beechum1 View Post
... disabling the safety switches ... doesn't add any danger to the startup process because *my* startup process is ALWAYS make sure the bike is in N when starting if i'm not mounted and suited. What I mean is, if I'm on the bike on the trail and I stall, all I have to do is pull in the clutch lever and start the bike and I continue on my merry way, so it doesn't need to be in N and is in fact much more convenient. ...
Well, for "starters" Jeremy, if you'll pardon the pun, the bike is set up from the factory to allow starting in gear with the clutch pulled in. So, what's the point?

I can't think of any benefit to disconnecting the neutral safety, and it provides a handy benefit of lighting a green light which makes checking to see if it's in N much easier than rolling the bike etc. like in the old days.

So by disabling the neutral safety, there's no longer any indicator, and the bike can start in gear without pulling the clutch in (engaged). I need that like I need a hole in the head. I'm past the point of in the name of rebellion removing something that sounds like it's protecting me from my own stupiditiy when in fact it's helping me. Gotta think through these things.
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