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Old 07-20-2013, 06:09 AM   #60766
gentlwolf
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Location: VANCOUVER BC
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thanks thanks thanks

really nice to hear advice not from the manual

live in Vancouver BC steve..

so in regards to replacing all these parts what might be my best options?
(most interested in reliability)

definitely want to do it right this time and avoid being in there for a while

Im guessing (from experience) going to the honda center isnt going to be the best value?

i do have a friends address just across the boarder in bellingham where i can have things shipped and avoid the fees to canada so if there are some good spots online?

oh yeah forgot to mention over here that the valves horribly failed the "solvent test"

so if i was getting those refaced and seats ground i would be referring that job to the same person who i get to re-bore for the new piston correct ?

will check out that connect rod play today and try to clean up and remove those valves.. what do you guys usually use to get all that carbon off?
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:19 AM   #60767
nic579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JThompson View Post
If this is like the "Flex Jet" I bought for the stock FCR39 on my KLX400R, then the problem is just the hole in the bowl, say that fast 5 times, is too small. The hole in the base of the carb itself is ok. Take the bowl off and check if the screw will fit in the carb. If so, just drill out the hole in the bowl a size larger, or even file it a little. Easy-peasy*.





* credit: Steve
No goes in the bell mouth at the slow air jet location not the idle fuel screw.
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Old 07-20-2013, 06:35 AM   #60768
mcma111
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Gentlwolf,

PM sent
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BMW's
58 R26
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:06 AM   #60769
nic579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingers View Post
Agree Nic, please post their response, I searched a lot and I'm surprised I can't find anything about how it goes in!?! Since the threads are a good 15 mm from the needle seat it looks like they want you to tap and thread the "mouth" of the orifice leaving the original seat threads intact.
Too much work for the questionable benefit of adjusting the slow air mixture, and since you still have to take the carb off to get to it, not to mention the NOSS needs drilling for access as well, your better off just getting a few sizes up or down to adjust the mixture, if its even needed.....

http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/th...-dsh-MX/Detail

You gotta love the below install instructions on the site:

The kit contains a screw and a spring. You remove your fixed size slow air jet and install the screw with the spring installed over the end. See the chart below for the jet size to adjustment correlations.
Hi Nick,
I'm sorry to hear you are having some problems. What carburetor are you trying to put this on Nick and exactly what jet are you trying to replace?

Let me assure you though there is nothing wrong with the adjustable slow jets. I just fitted one to an FCR-MX this morning, before replying to your email. The adjustable slow jets fit ALL FCR slant body and FCR-MX carburetors. They replace the ZF5 fixed orifice air jets and both have a 7mm thread OD. See below for the ZF5 PAJ that these replace.
http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/th...29-Slow/Detail

I suspect that what is happening is that you are trying to put this into the Keihin OEM FCR carburetors? Is this the carb you are trying to install on? If so then no, it won't fit.

I did reply back on a forum this morning regarding this exact question.

So you are also more than welcome to return the undamaged jet for a full refund if you would like.

Thanks with our regards,
Mike
www.power-barn.com
01-424-242-2276


I mentioned that it would be helpful if they had listed this as an issue in the description of the item which would stop some confusion to proper fitment. Looks as if some DRZ400 guys have run into confusion on the difference in FCR-MX and FCR-MX-OEM s also. Live and learn the hard way.

nic579 screwed with this post 07-20-2013 at 07:42 AM
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Old 07-20-2013, 07:20 AM   #60770
Fingers
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Mike,
Thanks, yes it is an OEM carb. I did not know there was a difference between OEM and Non OEM FCR MX carbs.
Good info for those following this thread as there are several that are building FCRs for their ride.
Very much appreciate the feedback, issue is solved.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:00 AM   #60771
joexr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gentlwolf View Post
thanks thanks thanks

really nice to hear advice not from the manual

live in Vancouver BC steve..

so in regards to replacing all these parts what might be my best options?
(most interested in reliability)

definitely want to do it right this time and avoid being in there for a while

Im guessing (from experience) going to the honda center isnt going to be the best value?

i do have a friends address just across the boarder in bellingham where i can have things shipped and avoid the fees to canada so if there are some good spots online?

oh yeah forgot to mention over here that the valves horribly failed the "solvent test"

so if i was getting those refaced and seats ground i would be referring that job to the same person who i get to re-bore for the new piston correct ?

will check out that connect rod play today and try to clean up and remove those valves.. what do you guys usually use to get all that carbon off?
Diesel fuel works well on carbon.
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:02 AM   #60772
nic579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingers View Post
Mike,
Thanks, yes it is an OEM carb. I did not know there was a difference between OEM and Non OEM FCR MX carbs.
Good info for those following this thread as there are several that are building FCRs for their ride.
Very much appreciate the feedback, issue is solved.
Good guys at Power barn clarified the listing for proper fitment + are refunding shipping. I would have no issue with doing further business with them. Thanks Mike at Power Barn.

From Mike at Power Barn:
Hi Nick!
Listing updated, let me know what you think please.

Thanks with our regards,
Mike

nic579 screwed with this post 07-20-2013 at 08:13 AM
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:47 PM   #60773
tractor4play
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ip

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
If the piston is 1.3mm above the top of the cylinder and you used a 1.3 mm spacer of some type at the bottom of the cylinder you would end up raising the center of the cam 1.3 mm. You would not see 1.3 mm on one side of the cam chain but .65 mm on either side. 1.3 mm split by 2 = .65 mm. The cam timing change would be negligible.
So with rfvc 650 bottom end mated with xl 600
Topend all gaskets in place piston is at zero deck.
Is there anything i can do to place the piston in the correct
Place to avoid any contact.

I want to put this engine together so that my original
Engine can be rebuilt and i still have a bike to ride.
So the 650/600 hybrid will only be on tje road a couple of
Months.
Thanks T.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:50 PM   #60774
buckrut1972
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waa

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Old 07-20-2013, 12:51 PM   #60775
buckrut1972
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w

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Old 07-20-2013, 01:22 PM   #60776
techforlife
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckrut1972 View Post
w

Sent from my SCH-I200 using Tapatalk 2

Look noob.........spit it out or throw out your tap-a-talkin cell phone crap..

FFS..

B
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:33 PM   #60777
mcma111
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get 'em B
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BMW's
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:45 PM   #60778
wbedient
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Location: North Central Washington
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Anybody here know how to tune a Mikuni tm38 on the XR650L. I found the air screw but I have no Idea where to even start tuning at.

Carb: TM38
Jets: ??
Engine: Stock
Intake: K&N Air Filter
Pipe: Stock
SPARK PLUG: FOULED within a couple hundred miles.

Suggestions?
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:17 PM   #60779
my6
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What jet sizes did it come with?
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:20 PM   #60780
kdennan
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Duh,
What's the bare minimum I can get away with to get the shock out of the bike?
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