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Old 09-09-2013, 10:18 AM   #62401
Wookazoid
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Location: Goobertown, Arkansas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
I'd reccommend dropping the main and/or lowering the needle (e.g., remove that added washer, if applicable, else move the circlip one notch toward the fat end of the needle). How about trying a 155 first, then if symptoms persist, a 152. I'd keep the 52 pilot at least initially; I went to a 55 pilot and my bike runs smoother and delivers more consistent power all across the range, plus it starts much easier now. Used to have to put a hair dryer on the carb to warm it up in order to get it started in anything beginning to resemble cool weather. It's likely to take some reiterations to dial it in; use time saving techniques such as not removing any cables and changing jets while in the frame.
After I posted earlier, I remembered I bought my main from a Honda dealer in Marion, Illinois while passing through on a business trip. They told me something about only having those jets in increments of 5, i.e., 150, 155, 160. I'll have to pull my bowl off to check. I believe I have two washers under the clip on the needle... might just pull one or both out.

Greg
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:26 AM   #62402
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
...Damn, I need to fiddle a little more with my jetting. Just out of curiosity, what jets are you running?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWhitmore44 View Post
You will also need gearing, average speed, riding style, and probably altitude ...
My bike is set up in the following manner.

Intake:

Stock carburetor with all of Dave's carb modifications.
Pilot jet: size 55
Main jet: size 155

Uni air filter with Uni cage.
No-Toil Evolution filter oil.

Engine and gearing:

Stock motor with stock transmission.
XR650R C/S sprocket: 14T
Rear sprocket: 48T

Riding conditions:

I ride at elevations of 4,400 to 9,200 feet above sea level. I usually stay off the interstate highways, except to avoid city traffic when running errands to the other side of town. On pavement I mostly ride secondary and tertiary roads leading to the dirt. Unless I am on the interstate highways, I ride at an easy pace, usually 45 to 55 mph.

The Clarke, 4.7-gallon fuel tank is certainly big enough for me. I sometimes think I should have purchased the Clarke, 4.0-gallon fuel tank.



In August the Clarke, 4.7-gallon fuel tank carried me 220 miles across the desert from Wendover, Utah back home to Idaho without hitting reserve.



If you are a gearhead, add Bonneville Speed Week to your bucket list. I'm not a gearhead, but I still had a great time!



Spud
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2005 XR650L: Shorai Battery Relocation, Spud Oil Cooler, XR650R C/S Sprocket, Reinforced Subframe, Chain Slipper Roller, Performance Design Lowering Link, Baja Designs Headlight, FMF Hi-Flo Header, ManRacks SD Rack, ManRacks Front Fender Farkle, CST Surge I Front Tire, D952 Rear Tire, Tusk D-Flex Handguards, Uni Air Filter, No-Toil Evolution air filter oil

Spud Rider screwed with this post 09-09-2013 at 10:37 AM
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:30 AM   #62403
Wookazoid
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Originally Posted by XR650L View Post
Well they say a Picture is worth a Thousand Words

I am posting the pictures, If there are any questions ask them

https://plus.google.com/photos/11617...81490131788385

Forks still rubs on tank but it is within limits for me.

Took about 4 hours

I've wondered if you could run inverted forks with the Acerbis tank... guess this picture answered that question. I have access to a set of YZ125 inverted forks and have pondered doing the swap-out.

Greg
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:41 AM   #62404
joexr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wookazoid View Post
After I posted earlier, I remembered I bought my main from a Honda dealer in Marion, Illinois while passing through on a business trip. They told me something about only having those jets in increments of 5, i.e., 150, 155, 160. I'll have to pull my bowl off to check. I believe I have two washers under the clip on the needle... might just pull one or both out.

Greg
The jets go 2,5,8,0. 150,152,155,158,160,162,165,168,170 and so on.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:47 AM   #62405
ThumpnRed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUVslayer View Post
Thanks for the input. I need to monkey with mine a bit also, but I don't have any experience with changing needle sizes. Is is all just trial and error? Do you have to go buy a stack of needles and try them all?
With the stock carb, you are limited to what (if any) needles are available. There may be other needles that came out of similar carbs from other bikes, but there hasn't been much work done on sorting that out for the XRL. That leaves you with shimming the stock needle to approximate moving the clip on other needles. As far as the needle profile goes, you are pretty much stuck with what you have. Most who mess with different needles are running an FCR carb. The "tunable" carbs like the FCR can be as much of a curse as they are a blessing though. If you have it tuned right, it rips. Getting it tuned can be a nightmare though. There are so many more variables to play with.... it can lead to carbs flying across the shop.
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Old 09-09-2013, 10:52 AM   #62406
JWhitmore44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
Unless I am on the interstate highways, I ride at an easy pace, usually 45 to 55 mph.



Spud


I'd get so much better gas millage if I would stop listening to Sammy Hagar

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Old 09-09-2013, 12:10 PM   #62407
N7XW
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Jets

So what jets do you guys recommend for 0-1000', actually mostly between 0-500'? I have yet to do Dave's mods.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:20 PM   #62408
DaveHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
I'd rather have a few ounces of aluminum hanging on my bars than $120 worth of steel!
The plastic is deformable. It scratches, but even really hard hits don't break it. DAMHIK.
Not to mention the slick hardware and easy mounting, ala Acerbis, etc.
+1 on the real handguards are a must for offroad riding, even gravel I'd say.

To each his own, but you might want to consider getting some miles in on the original carb. If you suspect it's not performing up to par, you could take it apart for analysis and check for Dave's mods (properly done). The stock carbs are capable of working quite well. With Dave's mods, Uni air filter, snorkel removed, and performance exhaust, there's a notable performance gain over stock.
Ya. Bike is going to be pretty front heavy with $120 of steel up there.

I'll probably try and mess with the stock carb first. at least it only has one! The FRC carb scares me for jetting as well.
We have had some later posts about jetting. Now I'm confused! Have to figure out what I have 1ST. Maybe buy some jets +/- either way so I have them on hand? Spark plug sparks but i oredered new plug anyway. Snorkel still in place. Supetrap muffler and stock header. K&N filter element. When motor is cold bike doesn't start (or at all) well when even 50 degrees F cold with full choke. I'm pretty sure i flooded it last go around. I actually think it might be a tad rich. Maybe? or, I don't know WTF I'm doing.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:32 PM   #62409
tungstang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeway crash View Post
Just picked up a 08 XR650L and it needs a mirror. Any suggestions. Not sure where to look or what to get. I also need a tool bag and clutch lever.
cycle-analyst.com the mirrors are awesome.
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:48 PM   #62410
ONandOFF
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Location: Shenandoah Valley riding wonderland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUVslayer View Post
Thanks for the input. I need to monkey with mine a bit also, but I don't have any experience with changing needle sizes. Is is all just trial and error? Do you have to go buy a stack of needles and try them all?
My reccomendation to him was simply to reverse the Dave's mod step of raising the needle, dropping it back where it was, not replacing it. Some "jet kits" include replacement needles to address the different distribution of fuel delivery with respect to slide position. It's either trial and error, or duplicate someone else's findings and hope for similar results.
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:11 PM   #62411
ONandOFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveHunter View Post
... I'm pretty sure i flooded it last go around. I actually think it might be a tad rich. Maybe? or, I don't know WTF I'm doing.
It's been puzzling me how I can so easily tell the difference between running rich and running lean, especially since so many people seem to have trouble with that. It just hit me that I grew up in the era of adjustable main and idle jets so I've been fine tuning mixtures since I was a kid. When you can adjust at whim, and get instant feedback of the results, it's easy to learn to identify the conditions.

That's running; it's harder to judge when it won't start. If you prescribe a starting procedure, then alter it until you find the recipe, that will help sort it out. Writing it down will help you from getting confused (e.g., crank twice for five secs with full choke no touching throttle, then twice at mid choke, then twice at no choke, then twice with throttle cranked open). Keep trying recipes like that until you find a reliable one. Raw gas smell in the exhaust pretty much indicates flooding. To know, pull the plug real quick and see if it's wet with gas.
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:18 PM   #62412
bwalsh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveHunter View Post
Now I'm confused!

Here let me help!

I seem to recall a discussion here a while back about the jets from Dyno-jet not being the same matching numbers as the stock ones(Keihin) from the dealer or Jets-R-us?

You know, same diameter hole but a different number.?
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:21 PM   #62413
joexr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
Here let me help!

I seem to recall a discussion here a while back about the jets from Dyno-jet not being the same matching numbers as the stock ones(Keihin) from the dealer or Jets-R-us?

You know, same diameter hole but a different number.?
JetsRUs has a crossover chart.
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Old 09-09-2013, 02:59 PM   #62414
DaveHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONandOFF View Post
It's been puzzling me how I can so easily tell the difference between running rich and running lean, especially since so many people seem to have trouble with that. It just hit me that I grew up in the era of adjustable main and idle jets so I've been fine tuning mixtures since I was a kid. When you can adjust at whim, and get instant feedback of the results, it's easy to learn to identify the conditions.

That's running; it's harder to judge when it won't start. If you prescribe a starting procedure, then alter it until you find the recipe, that will help sort it out. Writing it down will help you from getting confused (e.g., crank twice for five secs with full choke no touching throttle, then twice at mid choke, then twice at no choke, then twice with throttle cranked open). Keep trying recipes like that until you find a reliable one. Raw gas smell in the exhaust pretty much indicates flooding. To know, pull the plug real quick and see if it's wet with gas.
That's a good idea. Be more systematic and write it down. Especially if beer is involved in the equation! My memory sucks.
It was starting/ running fine (but not perfect) the weekend before last after I bought it, but then something changed. It's not run since, but I've not spent much time with it either. No time.
Like I said, I was really thinking about just buying a pumper carb if I went the Suzuki DR650 route, from all the banter over there about them not running with the stock carb. I was hoping the stock XR carb is better, but not so sure now?
Family stuff this past weekend so I couldn't spend any quality time with the XR. My motorcycle trip to PA next weekend is on the ST13. For sure! But I'm going to miss out on the DS rides. Oh well.
I've only had two other bikes I messed (up?) with the carbs before and they were both twins with two carbs. One I got running nice. Honda. The other, not so good. Suzuki.
I think I'll get it sorted out.
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Old 09-09-2013, 03:57 PM   #62415
DaveHunter
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tachometer

Anybody have any experiance with one of those inexpensive tachometer/ hour meters. Like in the $35-$45 range.
Thanks,
D
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