XRL owners sign in. - Page 507

Wattner · 07-20-2009, 10:09 AM

Yeah but the foam inserts are heat sensitive and don't last very long before degrading. Agreed, and the balls are cool, but a PIA to install and may pose a problem for away from home tire replacement if you need extra balls or something The tubeless system uses a cheap and easy innertube off of a bicycle or something

The tubeless system is so much more elegant.

Hey Wattner - did you use the stock rim lock location and air valve location on the XRL rims or did you drill out a new hole in the suggested location? I actually installed the front on a new wheel for the CRF front end, and I drilled the new wheel. On the rear, I have a non-stock SUN rim that I drilled with no stock hole. If I had to plug a hole, I would use a small piece of aluminum flashing or flat stock that is slightly larger than the hole and use a Marine Silicone to seal it up, filling the hole on the bottom and smooth to the dimension of the rim.Assuming you moved it, what did you use to fill the stock rim lock hole?

Now that you have the tubeless system have you thought about experimenting with creating your own? Yes, I have... I am experimenting with this system to see if I can improve it or not.. So far looks great!!!Looks like they're using a high pressure bicycle tube to seal the spoke nipples but it's hard to figure what they're using for the red divider between the high pressure tube and the tire's air chamber. I am assuming that and the plastic and steel components utilized that create air inflation system is what makes theirs proprietary and expensive. It really looks like there is way less than $10.00 of hard goods for the unit, plus the stickers and divider that comes with it. Looks like a cash cow if it gets widespread acceptance.

I've thought about experimenting with putting in a valve stem and sealing the spoke nipples and rim interior with an elastomeric coating similar to some of the new roof coatings as a poor man's tubeless system. Thoughts???Absolutely!!!! I actually have looked into this quite extensively and will launch my version sometime along with an entity that I created some while back dealing with specialty Motorcycle needs. The R&D takes significant $$$ and time, I just am time poor at the moment. There are several obstacles to overcome, and I have attended to most with favorable results. There are however drawbacks to the elastomeric method and I am hoping to get all the bugs worked out for my own use, much less trying to market a finished product. I like ideas and sharing ideas... My biggest concern (and may be no concern???) is a rim lock to prevent the tire from slipping on the wheel while sealing as well, another is a field repair should a tire tool or a large nail or object protrude through the tire and damage the elastomeric. I have had objects in tubed tires that may have torn it up (and will the Nuetech tubliss system as well..)....

ravenranger · 07-20-2009, 11:46 AM

Let me know if you need a test-rider!

Meanwhile, I'm going to continue to experiment as well because I agree that an after-market retro-fit tubeless system is a great idea.

BTW, here's a write up of someone converting a mountain bike to tubeless that looks interesting.
http://www.nsmb.com/gear/tubeless_12_04.php

tjschul · 07-20-2009, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave

It could be a rich or lean flat spot, It's a pain but I'd try fine-tuning the needle shim washer thickness.

I assume you have a 15x or 160 main jet, not a 150...

If it's a rich flat spot, riding without the airbox cover should help it, if it's a lean spot that'll make it much worse.

When I whack my throttle open I suspect I'm a touch rich, it burbles for a brief moment before pulling but the power doesn't go down and then back up, it just pulls a bit harder, it clears, and then pulls as it should. I tolerate it because for my riding, the control seems good and I'm just too lazy to mess with it.

Dave

Right..my typo, its a 160 main. needle shim is .025". I'm at sea level.

Air cover trick is going to be tried this afternoon.

What effect does cutting the spring have? Cutting 1 1/2 coils was part of the "carb fix-it recipe" for my KTM LC4. That thing rocked afterwards.

Thanks again!

seantx · 07-20-2009, 12:08 PM

DIY tubeless rims.

http://www.adventure-motorcycling.co...less/index.htm

Haven't tried it but would like to.

XR650L_Dave · 07-20-2009, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjschul

Right..my typo, its a 160 main. needle shim is .025". I'm at sea level.

Air cover trick is going to be tried this afternoon.

What effect does cutting the spring have? Cutting 1 1/2 coils was part of the "carb fix-it recipe" for my KTM LC4. That thing rocked afterwards.

Thanks again!

Well, it's a mixed bag. It lowers the preload on the spring, but the spring rate goes up, although it should be more open for any given amount of throttle with less preload.

The stock CV carb is fussy, you might do it and it works great, or it might suck.

Dave

doughy · 07-20-2009, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XR650L_Dave

The stock CV carb is fussy, you might do it and it works great, or it might suck.

Dave

I'm learning this right now. I can't seem to get mine purrrfect. Lately the issue I have had is that I can't run at an even throttle at lower to mid RPMS. It sputters. It's like I have to have the throttle off or on for it to be smooth.

ravenranger · 07-20-2009, 06:07 PM

There was someone several pages back who was looking for a decent XRL for not too much $$$. (Sorry, I'm to lazy to search back through for it.)

I happened to see a decent looking '94 on my way to the grocery this evening, got the info and I've stuck an ad in the flea market for it.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...php?p=10402052

jscompto · 07-20-2009, 07:21 PM

I just bought this bike tonight: http://bloomington.craigslist.org/mcy/1272065659.html

It runs, but it needs a LOT of work. All of the electronics have been ripped off and it smokes horribly bad. It shifts through all the gears and stuff though. I suspect that it has a blown head gasket because its leaking oil from the head and from there the entire inside of the exhaust is lined with oil so bad that it spits oil out of the exhaust. Also, the gas tank is rusted so bad that it has actually rusted apart. So, it needs electronics, a wiring harness (maybe), a head gasket and probably some rings, a gas tank, a seat cover, and some other misc. stuff. you can tell that it was abused, but the guy who i got it from had it for about a month and took decent care of it.

I think I could do one of two things with it...Make it a runable bike and fix whats wrong and make it safe to ride. I think that if I invested about 6-800 bucks in things that it needs, I could have a good bike on my hands. OR I could strip it and sell it. what do you guys think?

truck6driver · 07-20-2009, 07:35 PM

The older XL600LM sold in Europe had tubless rims. The rim had a raised ridge where our spokes go and it was drilled for the spokes. Not sure they could be fitted to our hubs or not? The rear is a 17" rim also.

McLeod · 07-20-2009, 08:22 PM

Honestly you better expect to spend more like $1800 but you will have a really reliable bike when your done.
I want to find one like similar but with a title to fix up for my son.

It will be a awesome project.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jscompto

I just bought this bike tonight: http://bloomington.craigslist.org/mcy/1272065659.html

It runs, but it needs a LOT of work. All of the electronics have been ripped off and it smokes horribly bad. It shifts through all the gears and stuff though. I suspect that it has a blown head gasket because its leaking oil from the head and from there the entire inside of the exhaust is lined with oil so bad that it spits oil out of the exhaust. Also, the gas tank is rusted so bad that it has actually rusted apart. So, it needs electronics, a wiring harness (maybe), a head gasket and probably some rings, a gas tank, a seat cover, and some other misc. stuff. you can tell that it was abused, but the guy who i got it from had it for about a month and took decent care of it.

I think I could do one of two things with it...Make it a runable bike and fix whats wrong and make it safe to ride. I think that if I invested about 6-800 bucks in things that it needs, I could have a good bike on my hands. OR I could strip it and sell it. what do you guys think?

Wattner · 07-20-2009, 08:26 PM

With no title...no plate, no plate.... dirt only... Dirt only, Why an "L"????

Strip it, sell it for parts and get ya a set of extra wheels in the deal as well as a few bucks...

seantx · 07-20-2009, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wattner

With no title...no plate, no plate.... dirt only... Dirt only, Why an "L"????

Strip it, sell it for parts and get ya a set of extra wheels in the deal as well as a few bucks...

True. I'll give you what you paid just for the wheels. Or trade you a cherry stock tank.

Actually, if you could get it running good for little to no $$$ and needed a beater dirt bike....

fritzcoinc · 07-20-2009, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jscompto

I just bought this bike tonight: http://bloomington.craigslist.org/mcy/1272065659.html

It runs, but it needs a LOT of work. All of the electronics have been ripped off and it smokes horribly bad. It shifts through all the gears and stuff though. I suspect that it has a blown head gasket because its leaking oil from the head and from there the entire inside of the exhaust is lined with oil so bad that it spits oil out of the exhaust. Also, the gas tank is rusted so bad that it has actually rusted apart. So, it needs electronics, a wiring harness (maybe), a head gasket and probably some rings, a gas tank, a seat cover, and some other misc. stuff. you can tell that it was abused, but the guy who i got it from had it for about a month and took decent care of it.

I think I could do one of two things with it...Make it a runable bike and fix whats wrong and make it safe to ride. I think that if I invested about 6-800 bucks in things that it needs, I could have a good bike on my hands. OR I could strip it and sell it. what do you guys think?

I am thinking low side $325 not including the engine and frame on EBay. Will the engine bring $225???

Ben99r1 · 07-20-2009, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tjschul

Completed Dave's carb mods and have a few questions for the CV experts.

The bad flat spot I had off idle when I whack the throttle open is ALMOST gone.
In the past I've raised the float level a tad to richen up the off idle response.
Float adjustment is not possible with the XRL carb....so will clipping a coil or two off the slide spring help? Or will further enlarging of the two slide holes yield positive results?

Have opened up air box, aftermarket exhaust, K&N filter.
Current jetting is 150 main, 60 pilot with air screw 1 1/2 open.
(couldn't find a 55 pilot anywhere).
Try Jetsrus.com they will have the right jets for the xrl. Try 55pilot 160main 2 1/2 turns out fuel mix screw. order a few larger and smaller jets just in case. Ben

thanks
JS

Try Jetsrus.com they will have the right jets for the xrl. Try 55pilot 160main 2 1/2 turns out fuel mix screw. Order a few larger and smaller jets just in case. Ben

ravenranger · 07-20-2009, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jscompto

I just bought this bike tonight: http://bloomington.craigslist.org/mcy/1272065659.htmlOR I could strip it and sell it. what do you guys think?

strip it and sell it then use the money to buy an halfway decent XRL

07-20-2009, 11:46 AM	#7592
ravenranger rave Joined: May 2007 Location: az Oddometer: 1,418	Let me know if you need a test-rider! Meanwhile, I'm going to continue to experiment as well because I agree that an after-market retro-fit tubeless system is a great idea. BTW, here's a write up of someone converting a mountain bike to tubeless that looks interesting. http://www.nsmb.com/gear/tubeless_12_04.php __________________ 1989 NX250 2006 ST1300A 2006 Aprilia Caponord ravenranger screwed with this post 07-20-2009 at 12:24 PM

07-20-2009, 06:07 PM	#7597
ravenranger rave Joined: May 2007 Location: az Oddometer: 1,418	There was someone several pages back who was looking for a decent XRL for not too much $$$. (Sorry, I'm to lazy to search back through for it.) I happened to see a decent looking '94 on my way to the grocery this evening, got the info and I've stuck an ad in the flea market for it. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...php?p=10402052 __________________ 1989 NX250 2006 ST1300A 2006 Aprilia Caponord

07-20-2009, 07:21 PM	#7598
jscompto Studly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2008 Location: Bargersville, Indiana Oddometer: 597	I just bought this bike tonight: http://bloomington.craigslist.org/mcy/1272065659.html It runs, but it needs a LOT of work. All of the electronics have been ripped off and it smokes horribly bad. It shifts through all the gears and stuff though. I suspect that it has a blown head gasket because its leaking oil from the head and from there the entire inside of the exhaust is lined with oil so bad that it spits oil out of the exhaust. Also, the gas tank is rusted so bad that it has actually rusted apart. So, it needs electronics, a wiring harness (maybe), a head gasket and probably some rings, a gas tank, a seat cover, and some other misc. stuff. you can tell that it was abused, but the guy who i got it from had it for about a month and took decent care of it. I think I could do one of two things with it...Make it a runable bike and fix whats wrong and make it safe to ride. I think that if I invested about 6-800 bucks in things that it needs, I could have a good bike on my hands. OR I could strip it and sell it. what do you guys think? __________________ '96 XR 650L ~ 103mm piston, NX650 2nd gear, high flow header, WebCam, Vapor, FCR 41 pumper, 5.8 Acerbis '99 CR 250R ~ gnarly pipe, turbine core 2 silencer, 54 tooth sprocket. BEAST http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491159 Joel Compton

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07-20-2009, 10:09 AM	#7591
Wattner Beastly Adventurer Joined: Oct 2003 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida Oddometer: 2,765	Yeah but the foam inserts are heat sensitive and don't last very long before degrading. Agreed, and the balls are cool, but a PIA to install and may pose a problem for away from home tire replacement if you need extra balls or something The tubeless system uses a cheap and easy innertube off of a bicycle or something The tubeless system is so much more elegant. Hey Wattner - did you use the stock rim lock location and air valve location on the XRL rims or did you drill out a new hole in the suggested location? I actually installed the front on a new wheel for the CRF front end, and I drilled the new wheel. On the rear, I have a non-stock SUN rim that I drilled with no stock hole. If I had to plug a hole, I would use a small piece of aluminum flashing or flat stock that is slightly larger than the hole and use a Marine Silicone to seal it up, filling the hole on the bottom and smooth to the dimension of the rim.Assuming you moved it, what did you use to fill the stock rim lock hole? Now that you have the tubeless system have you thought about experimenting with creating your own? Yes, I have... I am experimenting with this system to see if I can improve it or not.. So far looks great!!!Looks like they're using a high pressure bicycle tube to seal the spoke nipples but it's hard to figure what they're using for the red divider between the high pressure tube and the tire's air chamber. I am assuming that and the plastic and steel components utilized that create air inflation system is what makes theirs proprietary and expensive. It really looks like there is way less than $10.00 of hard goods for the unit, plus the stickers and divider that comes with it. Looks like a cash cow if it gets widespread acceptance. I've thought about experimenting with putting in a valve stem and sealing the spoke nipples and rim interior with an elastomeric coating similar to some of the new roof coatings as a poor man's tubeless system. Thoughts???Absolutely!!!! I actually have looked into this quite extensively and will launch my version sometime along with an entity that I created some while back dealing with specialty Motorcycle needs. The R&D takes significant $$$ and time, I just am time poor at the moment. There are several obstacles to overcome, and I have attended to most with favorable results. There are however drawbacks to the elastomeric method and I am hoping to get all the bugs worked out for my own use, much less trying to market a finished product. I like ideas and sharing ideas... My biggest concern (and may be no concern???) is a rim lock to prevent the tire from slipping on the wheel while sealing as well, another is a field repair should a tire tool or a large nail or object protrude through the tire and damage the elastomeric. I have had objects in tubed tires that may have torn it up (and will the Nuetech tubliss system as well..)....

07-20-2009, 12:08 PM	#7594
seantx Studly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2007 Location: waco, tx Oddometer: 517	DIY tubeless rims. http://www.adventure-motorcycling.co...less/index.htm Haven't tried it but would like to.

07-20-2009, 07:35 PM	#7599
truck6driver The Fireman Joined: Sep 2007 Location: Hope Mills, N.C. Oddometer: 5,791	The older XL600LM sold in Europe had tubless rims. The rim had a raised ridge where our spokes go and it was drilled for the spokes. Not sure they could be fitted to our hubs or not? The rear is a 17" rim also.

07-20-2009, 08:26 PM	#7601
Wattner Beastly Adventurer Joined: Oct 2003 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida Oddometer: 2,765	With no title...no plate, no plate.... dirt only... Dirt only, Why an "L"???? Strip it, sell it for parts and get ya a set of extra wheels in the deal as well as a few bucks...