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Old 07-25-2014, 10:52 PM   #1
Dracothius OP
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Klr and Dr fixes

Don't worry, this isn't a klr vs dr thread. Well, not primarily. So i'm deciding between the klr and dr at the moment. I've stumbled across the needs to be fixed pages for both of these bikes and am curious how accurate these pages are.
The dr page and youtube video (HERE http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/Potentia...to_be_aware_of AND http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSoaIn3r0vA )


DR 650 fixes
-countershaft seal (2013+up ok)
-neutral sending unit
-fuel filter
-grease a few places
-wheel bearings
-rear frame weak in areas (really surprised here)
-remove safety switches
-upper chain roller
-primary gear nut
-3rd gear ( rare 2009+up ok)

KLR page (http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#knownissues)

KLR 650 Fixes
-Carb t-mod
-doohickey
-safety switches
-rear brake bracket
-headlight fuse
-shift lever
-gas remaining in right side of tank
-weak subframe (again really suprised)
-tighten all fasteners

I was blown away that they both have weakness with the frames. The dr actually has to be opened up according to the pages; Although a magnetic plug may work. Are these accurate to what needs to be done? Do they cover all known weaknesses? I have a hard time believing the frames are weak when it comes to heavy loads.

Dracothius screwed with this post Yesterday at 09:38 AM
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Old 07-25-2014, 11:20 PM   #2
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I don't think the subframes on either are all that weak (what did you have in mind?). the bolts that hold the sub on the klr is a different story. kawi used grade 10ish bolts & they worked ok as long as they were tight.... a little slack & they shear under loads. replacing them with grade 12.3 is a good enough fix (about a dollar).

the doo is a must on the klr, the nsu & countershaft seal need help on the dr. both need the swing arm greased & forks serviced,,, most the rest depends on where you plan to take the bike

I would just pick the one that is closest to what you want to do & tailor it for your use. you have read the general consensus... klr is more roomy & a better hiway bike, the dr is better off road
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Old Yesterday, 12:15 AM   #3
Dracothius OP
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Honestly, I will be riding the bike back and forth to work and in the forest (read sand and trees) most days. I have ridden different bikes in the sand and actually didn't mind an under powered, heavy pig in the sand. Tires seem to be the biggest factor with sand. Back on topic, I plan on putting the biggest hard bags/top case I can find on either bike with a quick-ish release. Also, a needlessly large tank, countless farkles, stiffer springs, engine mods, blah blah blah. I also plan on two up every so often(like a few times a year) but the frame needs to be able to handle all that. The forest riding is on atv trails that are pretty rough. The bikes are so close in my mind I'm literally down to having to just get the better deal. People actually make frame stuff for the klr but the aftermarket seems oddly empty for dr frame stuff. The klr seems to have the easier fixes but the dr might serve all my needs better(especially off road). Anyway, thanks for the reply.
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Old Yesterday, 05:22 AM   #4
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There are a whole much longer list of things you can do. Your list of must do are not that accurate, such a rear brake bracket on the KLR, gas in the left side of the tank? A very small amt of gas may be in the right side as the petcock is on the left.

Frame issues are often the result of excessively loaded bikes, ridden hard and hardware not properly fastened.

Stock gas tank capacities, DR 3.4 gal, KLR 5.9gal (6 is claimed). Aftermarket tanks available for both. As much as 10 gal for the KLR.

Both bikes braking can be greatly improved by adding a 320mm front disc and steel wrapped brake lines.

Then there are the ergonomics. Bar positions, seats, wind management and the like.

Both are capable. Both are ugly. Both are fun to ride. Both can be ridden long distances. Both are reliable.
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Old Yesterday, 06:25 AM   #5
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DR sub mounts may refer to the mounts for the toolbox which can break when folks use them for other things. If there was a need for a commercially avail fix it'd be out there. Suzuki has a cs seal retainer for $12 so that's easy Ergos and preference based on ur stated mission
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Old Yesterday, 06:33 AM   #6
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Guys have done fully loaded trips to Alaska and back with stock DR suframes,there are no mounts to re-enforce as they are part of the frame,they dont seem to break. KLR only needs stronger bolts mainly.

3rd gear problem is so rare that it doesnt bare thinking about,just ride it.

The more you read junk on on the internet the more you will worry and no bike is perfect,most bike's problems are caused by owners trying to "fix" them.
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Old Yesterday, 06:38 AM   #7
Foot dragger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracothius View Post
Honestly, I will be riding the bike back and forth to work and in the forest (read sand and trees) most days. I have ridden different bikes in the sand and actually didn't mind an under powered, heavy pig in the sand. Tires seem to be the biggest factor with sand. Back on topic, I plan on putting the biggest hard bags/top case I can find on either bike with a quick-ish release. Also, a needlessly large tank, countless farkles, stiffer springs, engine mods, blah blah blah. I also plan on two up every so often(like a few times a year) but the frame needs to be able to handle all that. The forest riding is on atv trails that are pretty rough. The bikes are so close in my mind I'm literally down to having to just get the better deal. People actually make frame stuff for the klr but the aftermarket seems oddly empty for dr frame stuff. The klr seems to have the easier fixes but the dr might serve all my needs better(especially off road). Anyway, thanks for the reply.
You've got it figured,load an already ill handling heavy slow bike with as much stuff as can be bolted on and ride it in the sand,tires arent the biggest factor in sand,rider skill is.

Im thinking you havent tried this but only thought of it.
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Old Yesterday, 06:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracothius View Post
Don't worry, this isn't a klr vs dr thread. Well, not primarily. So i'm deciding between the klr and dr at the moment. I've stumbled across the needs to be fixed pages for both of these bikes and am curious how accurate these pages are.



KLR page (http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#knownissues)

KLR 650 Fixes
-Carb t-mod
-doohickey
-safety switches
-rear brake bracket
-headlight fuse
-shift lever
-gas left in right side of tank
-weak subframe (again really suprised)
-tighet all fasteners

I was blown away that they both have weak subframes. The dr actually has to be opened up according to the pages; Although a magnetic plug may work. Are these accurate to what needs to be done? Do they cover all known weaknesses? I have a hard time believing the frames are weak when it comes to heavy loads.
I can't say about the DR, so I'll just keep my comments to the KLR.

The only "must do" on your list is the doohickey. Everything else is a nice to do, or your option depending on use.

The sub-frames are not weak at all. In fact, they are rather robust. As was stated the mounting bolts are weak. On my KLR they were American equivalent to grade 3 bolts and need to be upgraded to grade 5 or 8, which is the aforementioned 10.9 or 12 in metric grading.

IMO, the KLR frame is rather weak comparatively speaking and will crack under certain circumstances, like mine did. However, they are easily repaired and only happen rarely. So I don't think they can be called a must do item.

Honestly, the KLR is what it is, but to my mind it is a rather well sorted out bike that really needs very little to done to it. (Probably, pretty like the DR in different ways.)
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Old Yesterday, 07:12 AM   #9
aalexander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracothius View Post
KLR 650 Fixes
-Carb t-mod

If remember correctly, the T mod is only applicable to pre 2008 KLR's the changed things around in the Gen II

-doohickey
-safety switches
-rear brake bracket
-headlight fuse

Different lights on the Gen II, I don't think this is a problem on 2008 + bikes

-shift lever
-gas left in right side of tank
-weak subframe (again really suprised)

Things improved on 2008. The Gen II KLR's have a 10 mm upper subframe bolts vs the 8 mm on the Gen I . The lower subframe bolts are still 8 mm like the Gen I and replacing them with a higher grade is popular.

-tighet all fasteners
aa
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Old Yesterday, 09:29 AM   #10
Dracothius OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
You've got it figured,load an already ill handling heavy slow bike with as much stuff as can be bolted on and ride it in the sand,tires arent the biggest factor in sand,rider skill is.

Im thinking you havent tried this but only thought of it.
Well I have actually ridden in sand on a heavy, slow bike. All my riding since I was little was bikes in deep nasty sand. I'm hoping to avoid fully loaded most of the time in sand. It's more load it down as much as possible for fun on the road then take most of it off (hence the quick-ish release) to ride in the sand. I am not claiming these lists to be my own. I have found these on what seem to be well respected sites (dr riders, bigcee). I'm just trying to figure out what still pertains to the more current versions of these bikes. I had heard of the klr bolts but the dr frame weakness I had never really heard of until I read that list. Thanks for the replies.
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