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Old 03-13-2008, 06:19 PM   #46
K2m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Venturi
Sorry mate, I assumed that "There is to much propaganda about oil designed to take money out of your pockets." & "Organic Oil" meant any oil is same.

BTW is organic oil same as mineral?

Now this is more confusing.... you changed oil 5 times before 1000Km mark? .... And I thought DockingPilot was the oil change freak in here!
I'm lost on the 5, 10, 15
No worries mate

It is

There is a lot of metal particles dislodging them selves as the engine starts to break in. The oil changes and mesh filter clean ups are designed to get this crap out of the motor as quick as possible. Break in oil contains no slippery stuff that prevents, or slows, this process down. Particles can lodge them selves in barrings and actually tighten tolerances and slow the engine down. Did you know that a dry sump was designed to stop the loss of HP as the crank shaft hits the oil puddle in a wet sump....... It was also possible to remove heat from the pistons by spraying oil under the crown.

I tend to keep my vehicles a long time, so oil is important to me. (VERY )

I still own a BMW R80gs I picked up in 84 and have only owned one car for my self that I got in 1989. With the arrival of a wife, that has grown to 3 cars. (2 Subaru's) When you run a small fleet costs are important.
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Old 03-13-2008, 06:27 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheetah
K2M

What brand & weight of oil are you using?

I have read that synthetic oil works best for engines that have a separate sump & gearbox. The dino oil works best with wet clutches.
Anglomoil....... They don't advertise, and pass the savings on to the consumer

I don't think dry sumps are good for wet clutches

ATF is best for clutches. Every now and then I dump some ATF into the oil and do an oil change a week later........ full of detergent ATF ......
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:24 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K2m
Anglomoil....... They don't advertise, and pass the savings on to the consumer

I don't think dry sumps are good for wet clutches

ATF is best for clutches. Every now and then I dump some ATF into the oil and do an oil change a week later........ full of detergent ATF ......
15/40 which is their mineral oil
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Old 03-15-2008, 09:34 AM   #49
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Texaco Havoline Diesel

I've been running texaco havoline oil for diesel engines in my tour bikes for years. Have over 25,000 miles on lots of them and never done anything to them except change oil and filters, both oil/air. Never any clutch work either. I'd gone with the diesel oil based off of some research and came up with the same conclusion as the link above.

There are obviously going to be some better oils but they are hard to come by in many areas of the world and very expensive.......especially when changing 7 bikes.

I run the Scotts Stainless Filters so I don't have to buy filters and I change oil every tour....... 1000-1500 miles usually. Some may get a few more miles put on them in between.

All bikes are High Performance Thumpers Yamaha's/KTM's

My Ducati Monster I sprung for the good stuff....... it is in the USoA.
For now the new to me 950 Adv will probably get hmmm... the synthetic in recommened weights but it won't be the Motorex. Nothing against it, nothing for it, just to hard to find and don't see the point. When I take off south of the border though on it I will probably do the same thing I do with the tourbikes though, a common good grade diesel that can be found anywhere and the Scotts filters.
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motolocopat screwed with this post 03-15-2008 at 11:34 AM
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Old 03-15-2008, 10:39 AM   #50
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Angus beef tallow or Coastal reman oil from Dollar General for my bike. Nothing but the best.
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Old 03-15-2008, 06:18 PM   #51
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Ive tried the Moterex , Shell semi syn , Fuch's & now the Motul , my vote is the Fuch's Silkoline , they all worked ok but seemed to be less of the rattle thing on the Fuch's . Unfortunatly the Fuch's is the most expensive .
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Old 03-15-2008, 07:53 PM   #52
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The best, hands down...

OK, I don't care what anyone in this or any of these theads say; find yourself some of the "Arco Graphite Oil" and you're talkin some high tech oil. Not sure why it's so hard to find these days. Someone's gobbling it up I guess
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Old 04-28-2008, 12:40 PM   #53
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Redline 15/50 is the only oil I use in any of my bikes. Trust me, it is better. It is the only Synthetic oil that is made from a synthetic base molecule. That said, if you change it a lot it doesn't really matter.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:09 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highlandcycles
Trust me, it is better.
Shouldn't that be 'Trust me, I'm a doctor'

No doubt you've got some scientific data to back up your claim and you're just waiting for the right time to put it forward.....

You can't beat a good oil thread - no self respecting internet forum should be without one.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:20 PM   #55
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I don't have the scientific data infront of me but my friend that is the engineer for Hendrick has quoted me volumes of data about the oil. In case you didn't know Hendrick Motorsports is the NASCAR team that wins a lot of races. Also Al (engineer) says that about 95 percent of the teams use redline, they just put different stickers on the car because Quaker State pays enough to do that. I totally agree about the oil thread, nothing elicits opinions like oil type.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:25 PM   #56
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Oh no that stuff is bilge oil.
Amsoil is # 1. 20w50. None better.

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Old 04-28-2008, 01:28 PM   #57
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That is funny. If that is true, then why doesn't Amsoil show comparisons to redline in their literature. Maybe they don't want to show how low quality their stuff is.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:31 PM   #58
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That was easy.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:34 PM   #59
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You asked !

When AMSOIL created the Series 2000 20W-50 Racing Oil, it seems the competition got upset with the testing results showing it's better protection. For years Red Line advertised that they provided the best protection, but the results of the Four Ball Wear Test showed the AMSOIL Series 2000 20W-50 providing over twice the protection. Red Line decided that they would perform their own test by running both oils and then seeing what results they would come up with. Their results some how showed their oil to be better. In an attempt to discourage the promotion of AMSOIL they mailed this information to all AMSOIL Dealers as well as their own reps. The findings of the Four Ball Wear Test were that of 100 tests and coming up with an average. Unlike the Red Line test, it could be proved over and over, under proper testing conditions. Rather than going along with the hype that this action provoked, AMSOIL simply issued the following letter:

Recently Red Line Synthetic Oil Corporation mailed an article to AMSOIL Dealers outlining results of testing done on AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 20W-50 Racing Oil and Red Line products. AMSOIL finds the article flawed in both its marketing approach and scientific methodology. Initial Red Line testing of an unused sample of AMSOIL Series 2000 20W-50 Racing Oil in the ASTM D4172 Four Ball Wear Test yielded results consistent with those appearing on the Series 2000 label. That is, AMSOIL Series 2000 20W-50 provided nearly three times better wear protection than Red Line 20W-50.
The article, however, goes on to report results of used oil testing using the ASTM D4172 Test. ASTM tests, as any informed entity in the lubricants industry knows, are designed for use with new (unused) lubricants, not used oil.
There are two problems with testing used oil. First, the conditions of testing are uncontrollable. While Red Line states the service conditions under which the samples operated were the same, variables including fuel and glycol dilution, contaminant levels, filtration, driving conditions sampling techniques and many more are virtually impossible to control.
The second problem is repeatability. AMSOIL attempted to replicate Red Line's findings by testing samples of used oil. The results were inconsistent with Red Line's and failed to meet the repeatability requirements of the ASTM D4172 test method. This failure is the result of testing an oil along with its contaminants.
Red Line's claim that their oil is designed to become more effective as it reacts with blowby gases is absurd. Clearly, if blowby gases improved the anti-wear characteristics of lubricants, then lubricant manufacturers would expose their products to such gases during the manufacturing process. The fact is, lubricant performance should not depend on the uncontrollable reactions of blowby gases with the oil.
Is AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 20W-50 Racing Oil better than Red Line ?
Yes .
When all the appropriate, scientifically valid, repeatable tests are applied Series 2000 is clearly the better oil.
Of course, AMSOIL Dealers are much too educated on the technical aspect of lubrication and on the principles of ethical salesmanship to be swayed by unscientific and unprofessional marketing tactics. And as the documented histories of vehicles achieving oil drain intervals greater than 100,000 miles under the Trigard Program continue to mount, dealers are assured that AMSOIL motor oils remain the standard by which other oils are measured.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:35 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DockingPilot
Oh no that stuff is bilge oil.
Amsoil is # 1. 20w50. None better.

Amsoil?? Never heard of it - I guess it's a US brand. Probably fine for weatherproofing fence panels and garden furnature, but for the best lubrication I prefer Fuchs Silkolene 10W50 fully synt. It's red, so it's gotta be good.
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