R1100Rt first it starts, then it goes, then it quits

coffee_brake5 · 03-01-2006, 05:07 PM

My R1100 RT-P was running just fine. Came down a hill in third gear, and suddenly I have no throttle. The engine didn't sputter or anything; just stone died. I listened for the fuel pump, and it was working. I checked fuses, and nothing had blown. I checked the manual

for any mysterious BMWesque problems that would elude the electricly challenged. "Check fuse number six." So, I am wondering, does anyone know about any relays/sensors/german beer law infringments which could be affecting my bike? Thanks for any help. coffee_brake5

jdiaz · 03-01-2006, 06:07 PM

Start with the sidestand switch. Kick the sidestand up and down a few times to see if the bike will run. If not, jumper across it with a very fine piece of wire.

AugustFalcon · 03-01-2006, 07:45 PM

Could be bad HES (Hall effect sensor). Take a look over on the IBMWR.org list in the oilheads technical section for the trouboeshooting steps to follow.

Of course, if the fuel pump continues to run then it is not the HES.

Possu · 03-02-2006, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdiaz

Start with the sidestand switch. Kick the sidestand up and down a few times to see if the bike will run. If not, jumper across it with a very fine piece of wire.

Not sure about the 1100's but the 1150's have three wires in the sidestand switch, at least one of which goes to the Motronic - check the wiring diagram to ensure you're connecting the right wires.

Does the bike still turn over? Does it still spark at the plugs? Chafed wiring around the headstock.

We have an 1100RT at work, I know that even in neutral, lowering the sidestand will cut the engine unlike an 1150. Tape the side stand switch in the stand retracted position to ensure that it's not weak side stand springs allowing the stand to come down a llittle & cause the bike to cut out - seen this happen once before, albeit on a Suzuki.

rtrider · 03-02-2006, 02:41 PM

i didn't think the rt-p's had a sidestand cutoff.

sounds like the Hall sensor...

coffee_brake5 · 03-03-2006, 03:47 AM

It turned out to be the Hall sensor, but not because the sensor had gone bad. The service shop in Greenville, SC. ran the diagnostic and had a bad HES fault. They took the sensor off, looked at it, and put it back on. The bike turned over just fine. Do these sensors get loose? Anyway, thanks for the good tips; it could have been any of those things and I wouldn't have known any better.

AugustFalcon · 03-03-2006, 04:26 AM

Never heard of the HES getting loose.

The HES lives down on the front of the engine in a very servere heat and mechanical environment. Many of the HES problems I have heard about are the result of heat causing causing the wiring to fail intermittantly internal to one of the sensors.

One accepted method of troubleshooting such a failure is to spray the sensor with something cold and then see if the bike runs. If it does then the sensor is bad.

Your shop saved you a LOT of money by not replacing the sensor assembly but if I were you I would begin looking for a used sensor replacement. There are also a couple of articles floating around the web on individual sensor replacement.

Of course none of this is anything the average guy could do very easily by the side of the road on a dark and rainy night.

jdiaz · 03-03-2006, 06:05 AM

I agree with AF. Its usually temp related.....fails when hot, and then works when cold. It will probably die again.

boney · 03-03-2006, 12:10 PM

There's been some discussion about them working intermittently when it's wet too.

dgunther · 03-03-2006, 12:22 PM

Here's a nice write-up on how to diagnose and repair your Hall Effect Sensor:
http://www.ebbo.org/2av54.php

Much cheaper than a factory new one, and I'd trust it more than a used one that may be near failure.

coffee_brake5 · 03-07-2006, 04:42 PM

I didn't know the HES is temperature sensitive. It had been a police bike and did alot of idling.

kbasa · 03-07-2006, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rtrider

i didn't think the rt-p's had a sidestand cutoff.

sounds like the Hall sensor...

They do, but it operates with the gear position indicator. Bike in neutral, sidestand down allows the bike to run. In gear, sidestand down, it won't run.

03-01-2006, 05:07 PM	#1
coffee_brake5 ^OP ain'tcha gonna... Joined: Feb 2006 Location: Jaw-juh(GA) Oddometer: 87	R1100Rt first it starts, then it goes, then it quits My R1100 RT-P was running just fine. Came down a hill in third gear, and suddenly I have no throttle. The engine didn't sputter or anything; just stone died. I listened for the fuel pump, and it was working. I checked fuses, and nothing had blown. I checked the manual for any mysterious BMWesque problems that would elude the electricly challenged. "Check fuse number six." So, I am wondering, does anyone know about any relays/sensors/german beer law infringments which could be affecting my bike? Thanks for any help. coffee_brake5

03-03-2006, 12:10 PM	#9
boney Ride > Post Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Sonoma CA Oddometer: 1,376	There's been some discussion about them working intermittently when it's wet too. __________________ The Beach Bus Esoteric, at best.

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: .
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

03-01-2006, 06:07 PM	#2
jdiaz . Joined: Feb 2002 Location: Elburn, IL Oddometer: 31,089	Start with the sidestand switch. Kick the sidestand up and down a few times to see if the bike will run. If not, jumper across it with a very fine piece of wire.

03-01-2006, 07:45 PM	#3
AugustFalcon Studly Adventurer Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Waterford, Connecticut U.S.A. Oddometer: 925	Could be bad HES (Hall effect sensor). Take a look over on the IBMWR.org list in the oilheads technical section for the trouboeshooting steps to follow. Of course, if the fuel pump continues to run then it is not the HES.

03-02-2006, 02:41 PM	#5
rtrider Lost Joined: Mar 2004 Location: @work Oddometer: 3,720	i didn't think the rt-p's had a sidestand cutoff. sounds like the Hall sensor...

03-03-2006, 03:47 AM	#6
coffee_brake5 ^OP ain'tcha gonna... Joined: Feb 2006 Location: Jaw-juh(GA) Oddometer: 87	It turned out to be the Hall sensor, but not because the sensor had gone bad. The service shop in Greenville, SC. ran the diagnostic and had a bad HES fault. They took the sensor off, looked at it, and put it back on. The bike turned over just fine. Do these sensors get loose? Anyway, thanks for the good tips; it could have been any of those things and I wouldn't have known any better.

03-03-2006, 04:26 AM	#7
AugustFalcon Studly Adventurer Joined: Dec 2004 Location: Waterford, Connecticut U.S.A. Oddometer: 925	Never heard of the HES getting loose. The HES lives down on the front of the engine in a very servere heat and mechanical environment. Many of the HES problems I have heard about are the result of heat causing causing the wiring to fail intermittantly internal to one of the sensors. One accepted method of troubleshooting such a failure is to spray the sensor with something cold and then see if the bike runs. If it does then the sensor is bad. Your shop saved you a LOT of money by not replacing the sensor assembly but if I were you I would begin looking for a used sensor replacement. There are also a couple of articles floating around the web on individual sensor replacement. Of course none of this is anything the average guy could do very easily by the side of the road on a dark and rainy night.

03-03-2006, 06:05 AM	#8
jdiaz . Joined: Feb 2002 Location: Elburn, IL Oddometer: 31,089	I agree with AF. Its usually temp related.....fails when hot, and then works when cold. It will probably die again.

03-03-2006, 12:22 PM	#10
dgunther rides ugly bikes Joined: Feb 2006 Location: Marietta, GA Oddometer: 226	Here's a nice write-up on how to diagnose and repair your Hall Effect Sensor: http://www.ebbo.org/2av54.php Much cheaper than a factory new one, and I'd trust it more than a used one that may be near failure.

03-07-2006, 04:42 PM	#11
coffee_brake5 ^OP ain'tcha gonna... Joined: Feb 2006 Location: Jaw-juh(GA) Oddometer: 87	I didn't know the HES is temperature sensitive. It had been a police bike and did alot of idling.