'02 DL1000, TRE and Power Commander?

[Stily1]

Hi,

Does anyone out there have experience with combining a Timing Retard Eliminator (TRE) with a Power Commander (stock map)?

If Suzuki runs different maps for gears 1-4, retarding the timing, and the TRE tricks the bike into thinking it's in 5th gear all of the time, how might that effect the way the Power Commander works? Is the Power Commander effected by the gear selection signal that the TRE defeats?

My Strom exhibits the low-rpm vibration that I've read about elsewhere. It sort of feels as if the bike is fighting itself briefly and I would like to eliminate it if possible. Any thoughts? Thanks.

[ShortOnSkill]

I purchased my 2003 DL1000 new. My first modification was to get the bike yosh box tuned. This made a huge difference in low rpm vibration and markedly increased performance from 3,000 to 5,000 rpm. The tune cost me $50 at a local triumph shop.

After about 10,000 miles, I purchased an Ivan TRE. I loved the change in engine character but hated losing the overdrive light. After doing lots of reading at http://vstrom.info/, I removed the secondaries. There was no change in performance. I then removed the TRE and again could feel no change in performance. After repeating this process a few times, I GAVE THE TRE AWAY. In my opinion, it's worthless. Remove the secondaries for the same effect.

At about 20,000 miles I decided to try the PCIII. There is very little difference between mapping with a yosh box and the dynojet PCIII map. There was noticeable difference after getting a custom map. However, when the air filter gets dirty, the custom map fouls plugs.

At 25,000 miles I decided to synchronize my throttle bodies. They were off by about 2.5 feet of two cycle oil (home built synchronization tool). While the tool worked, I now own a twinmax synchronizer and couldn't be more happy.

My advice: get the bike yosh box tuned, remove the secondaries, and synchronize the throttle bodies. Spend the considerable savings on heated grips and suspension upgrades.

[Stily1]

^^^Thanks!^^^

I've actually done the throttle body syncro (although my home-made tool involved two tupperware bowls and a large baloon), having learned that particular lesson from my old TL1000S (same motor, really, with larger throttle bodies).

I've looked around this site and have not found any photo of what the "secondaries" look like. Having removed my tank several times already, I'd rather see a picture before I go to the trouble again. Any help?

[Stily1]

NEVER MIND! I found photos here:
http://vstrom.info/vsri-gallery/gall..._Airbox?full=1

Now I see why the directions weren't more descriptive. You basically can't go wrong.

[ShortOnSkill]

"Can't go wrong" - especially if using a magnetic screwdriver. Fishing out the screws could be a pain. Don't worry about replacing the screws. I put both the plates and screws into a storage bag.

For a more complex mechanical adventure, try adding race-tech gold valves to the bike. It was the best modification ever!

[Cyclepath]

Originally Posted by Stily1

Hi,

Does anyone out there have experience with combining a Timing Retard Eliminator (TRE) with a Power Commander (stock map)?

If Suzuki runs different maps for gears 1-4, retarding the timing, and the TRE tricks the bike into thinking it's in 5th gear all of the time, how might that effect the way the Power Commander works? Is the Power Commander effected by the gear selection signal that the TRE defeats?

My Strom exhibits the low-rpm vibration that I've read about elsewhere. It sort of feels as if the bike is fighting itself briefly and I would like to eliminate it if possible. Any thoughts? Thanks.

stily,
never mind the TRE it's a piece of crap and not worth the money.
get your bike adjusted with a yosh box or teka. i opted for the powercommander as it is infinitly adjustable and i like to experiment.
if you have it yoshed or teka'd and it is not right you have to take it back and have it done again. a real pita..... with the powercommander you get to do it yourself as many times as it takes to get it right. i bought my pc111,usb from jamie at "fuelmoto.com" cost was 259.00 dollars plus 10 bucks shipping and you tell him what bike you have and what has been done to it and he loads the proper map for you. pretty good deal.
as far as removing the secondaries goes i took mine out at 3,000 miles and put them back in at 7,000 miles as i did not like them out. much smother with them in and better fuel mileage.
just my findings or preferences

cyclepath

[Stily1]

Thanks everybody. I guess I wasn't quite clear. I already have the TRE and Power Commander running on my '02 DL1000. I was asking because I wondered if the TRE might somehow interfere with the PC.

Long story short I've just returned from a glorious tinker session in which I had my Strom stripped to the frame yet again, removed the secondaries *and* installed two Fiamm horns (so now I have three horns going and I own a really horny bike! ).

I only did a wee parkade tour so won't comment yet on any perceived changes due to removal of the secondaries.

Other mods I've done (not all reflected in the photo below): dropped the front end a full INCH in the triple clamps, cranked three lines of preload into the rear shock, KisanTech headlight modulator, brake light modulator, backbar risers, Givi top case, Givi crash bars, heated grips, DL650 saddle, removed the "Tenesse Go-Faster" belly pan (why hide the motor??), cut 2" off the top of the stock windscreen, installed red and green Lazerbolts in the corners of the little fake air vents in the front (red right returning, like boats and planes). That's all I can think of at the moment.

[Cyclepath]

nice bike stily,
glad your having fun with your strom. i know i am with mine. some mods i have made to mine so far.
custom seat. couldn't sit on the stock one for more then an hr.
different bars to suit my riding style.
rox bar risers and set backs.
SS brake lines and clutch line.
mp cycledesigns wind screen.
one piece steel shift lever.
power commander.
symtec heated grips.
grip puppies.
jcw top box.
jim shook tank bag.
throttle lock.
custom made windshield mounting brackets. "i didn't like mp cycledesigns brackets, to flimsy.

keep on stromin.....

cyclepath

Originally Posted by Stily1

Thanks everybody. I guess I wasn't quite clear. I already have the TRE and Power Commander running on my '02 DL1000. I was asking because I wondered if the TRE might somehow interfere with the PC.

Long story short I've just returned from a glorious tinker session in which I had my Strom stripped to the frame yet again, removed the secondaries *and* installed two Fiamm horns (so now I have three horns going and I own a really horny bike! ).

I only did a wee parkade tour so won't comment yet on any perceived changes due to removal of the secondaries.

Other mods I've done (not all reflected in the photo below): dropped the front end a full INCH in the triple clamps, cranked three lines of preload into the rear shock, KisanTech headlight modulator, brake light modulator, backbar risers, Givi top case, Givi crash bars, heated grips, DL650 saddle, removed the "Tenesse Go-Faster" belly pan (why hide the motor??), cut 2" off the top of the stock windscreen, installed red and green Lazerbolts in the corners of the little fake air vents in the front (red right returning, like boats and planes). That's all I can think of at the moment.

[Stily1]

A quick update. Recently installed the Power Commander (more work than it was on the TL1000S due to connector location) *and* removed my secondaries. Too soon to say much. Rode 30 miles up Squamish Valley on Sunday (to about here: http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=q&hl=en...3,0.345726&t=k ) and had a BLAST (see phtoto below). Bike still has that little low-rpm rattle that I don't like, but I think that's just going to be part of the DL1000 motor's character and not something that can be adjusted out. It only matters when I'm riding sedately, so what?

As for my cut down stock '02 wind screen? Still not quite right. No buffeting, but loads of wind noise still even with ear plugs in. May experiment with drilling vacuum relief holes in the nose of the screen and/or trimming it down yet farther.

What I really probably want is my old TL1000S back set up as a standard with a farmed-on hydraulic clutch system, but too late for that. Oh well.