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Old 06-22-2007, 10:47 AM   #16
cjracer
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I was trying to find this when someone asked me how to put there SAS plates on. This is the easiest thread I found to follow.

Can we get this put into the OC maintenance thread for SAS PLATE install?

Don't worry MTD, once you start it's not that bad. If you wait until your 1st valve check it's much easier, as you have 90% of this stuff off anyways.
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Old 06-22-2007, 11:08 AM   #17
Sadlsor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddler
Being in the middle of doing all this stuff myself, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your effort in educating us with such detail.



Thanks Again
+100
I have not yet begun. I'm to pick up my darling on July 8. Did I tell you my J.O.B. sux?!
Have already recruited a volunteer or 2 to assist (props to Steve!), and this "preview" makes it come together for me, in a manner of speaking.
I can only guess how much time it took you for this, your first can'-ectomy, with all the pics at each turn. Very lucid narrative, as well.
Your efforts are much appreciated, fer shure, fer shure!
Thank you.
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Old 07-18-2007, 04:31 PM   #18
biggus
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Dealer?

Has anyone had the Ectomy performed by a dealer during the first 600 mile service? Will they do it? Prices?
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Old 08-25-2007, 08:22 PM   #19
wshoc840
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thanks for the write up

I just want to say thanks for the write up and thanks to CJ Racer for providing the blanking plates and all the parts to plug the holes and guiding me thru this procedure. I got ride of this:



and added these



I will be adding some more pictures. To all of those who are afraid to dig in....I just have to say....just do it. I mean I was scared tearing into an 11000 dollar piece of machinary, but I just told myself....YOU CAN DO IT Bill. Just do not attempt it with a hangover....Not a good Idea.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:11 AM   #20
TomTom63
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+1 bmwgsbill. I finally dug yesterday into my '06 950 Adventure with 400 miles on the odometer. I never worked on a KTM before. The information on this thread and Flanny's http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40598 are really self explanatory. Again guys, thanx for going through the trouble of documenting and posting ...

In addition to removing the canister and SAS, I placed M6 screws with high temp sealand on the LEFT side of the front and rear intakes. I placed the brass nipples, with same opening diameter and matching tube length, on the RIGHT side of each intake. I don't anticipate problems reading negative pressure (...I hope!)

The front cylinder blanking plate was a bit of a "patience tester". But, taking out the fastener for the oil container and radiator allowed some wiggle room. No special tools required, a flat 8mm box wrench and long fingers will do the trick... I decided to leave the reed valves inside the cylcinders and installing the blanking plates over it. The reed valves have a nice rubber lining providing for a clean seal, not requiring messy RTV goo.

It's just a nice, clean looking engine now...

Edit Aug. 27, 2007: ...just put the last screws to attache the "tupper ware" and cranked it up. Nice rumble, idle rpm is spot on, acceleration instant, ...goosh this bike is great!. The following 15 mile test ride went perfect (...up to 110 mph)

Filled up both tanks to the rim. Had a little spot on the ground from the right tank vent line ...perfect, no kinked lines! I didn't bother with checkvalves. The carb vent filter is right behind the airbox, no problem whatsoever either...

TomTom63 screwed with this post 08-27-2007 at 06:49 PM
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Old 08-26-2007, 07:09 AM   #21
Sadlsor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadlsor
+100
I have not yet begun. I'm to pick up my darling on July 8. Did I tell you my J.O.B. sux?!
And it turns out I don't have to. Apparently when the PO's dealer installed the Akros and jet kit, the can-ectomy was done also.
My seller / previous owner may not have realized it was done; IIRC he was fuzzy on this part.
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Old 08-26-2007, 08:16 AM   #22
drwet
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by MTDewX8
this looks like a dunting task and it scares me, even thought I want to do it on my bike
Its not that bad. I did mine a few weeks ago and the results were better than I ever could have imagined. Maybe the fact that I put up with hard starting, stalling, bad idle, and even worse mileage for months before I finally did the canisterectomy made it seem easier. Seriously, take your time, make some notes as it comes apart, and everything is pretty obvious once you see all the parts come off. I made block-off plates and put them on with silicone (after painting them semi-gloss black to match the engine). I also removed the brass vacuum fittings (four of them) and replaced them with M6 bolts. (I had some KTM bolts in stock from my track supplies and just cut them to length.) After I had the job done, I realized it would have been a good idea to leave two of them in to synch the carbs in the future. I will put them back next time I have the bike apart.

The biggest problem I had was the fact that one of the brass fittings twisted off when I put a wrench on it. Of course it wasn't the one that is easy to get at. It took me about two hours with an easy-out in a pair of vice-grips to get the remains of the brass fitting out.

And you CAN get the SAS fitting off the front cylinder without draining the oil from the oil tank. If you unbolt enough stuff you can move the tank over enough to get on the bolts with a 1/4 drive socket and a universal joint. Just have patience and stay with it and you'll get there. Its much easier to put the blanking plate on than it is to remove the SAS fitting.

Bottom line is: I love the bike again, and the dealer is glad to see me again 'cause I'm not always whining about the bike.
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:09 AM   #23
azdrhill
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Laugh How to get at the evil front SAS Plate

This shows the oil tank and the radiator unbolted and moved forward to provide access to the bolts.
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:16 AM   #24
azdrhill
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Up close

I used the reed valves to seal the mess like CJ did.
BTW - I cut about a mm off the lower bolt because it ran into the water pump hose in front of it coming out (the last turn of the bolt was smashing the head into the hose). I had to have my twelve year old daughter start the lower bolt - my big fat fingers just couldn't do it. I felt better when it took her ten minutes to get it started.
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:25 AM   #25
azdrhill
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Talking Piece of cake!

The rear plate is a breeze to install after the evil front has been dispatched.
CJ's blanking plates look mighty nice.
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:26 PM   #26
Hank.SD
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This thread is a great resource. As soon as it's too cold to ride I'll be performing this surgery on my 06. Just to clarify:

You cap the left side carb vents and leave hoses on the right side vents, running them to a convenient place for future carb syncing. These hoses need to be capped or somehow sealed. (I'm thinking a cap screw with the threads cut off, leaving only the head and smooth shank stuck in the end with a hose clamp).

Sorry if I'm asking about something that is obvious, but it can be a little hard to follow without seeing it first hand.

Thanks
Jason


Quote:
Originally Posted by TipOver
I love it when somebody get ambitious & I get to watch!

Looks like someone didn't re-attach your carb vents. Most think the vent should be run thru the bottom of the airbox & clipped about 1" below the bottom. No filter needed.

If it isn't all together yet you can plug the vents with the following parts.
Bolt & copper seal to plug manifold vacuum ports, P/N's are as follows:
M6x10 HH Collar Screw 0015060103
Cu-Seal Ring DIN7603 (6x10x1 Copper Washer) 0603061001
Use Blue Loctite or equivalent.

If you use these you don't have to worry about the rubber caps deteriorating & leaking in the future...
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Old 08-26-2007, 02:49 PM   #27
wshoc840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azdrhill
This shows the oil tank and the radiator unbolted and moved forward to provide access to the bolts.
Damn...that would be easy to get to. Then you can't wine when you loose the top of you Knuckle. I found the easiest way to do it was to first remove the hose, then you have enough room to get the wrench in there, then little by little you can get it off, without doing what you did. I have to say it can be done, but I have small fingers and patience. Nice pictures though to help others out. CJracer put together a kit for me to use with all the necessary screws and plugs and nuts and blanking plates.

By the way, azdrhill, who made your bash plate?

here is a diagram of what to do under the airbox...I h0pe I have this correct:



Then this is how I plugged the hole in the back of the airbox:

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Old 08-27-2007, 10:23 AM   #28
TomTom63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frequencydrive
You cap the left side carb vents and leave hoses on the right side vents, running them to a convenient place for future carb syncing. These hoses need to be capped or somehow sealed. (I'm thinking a cap screw with the threads cut off, leaving only the head and smooth shank stuck in the end with a hose clamp).

Jason
That's exactly what I did on my '06. Make sure the sync hoses are of same lenght...

Nice pictorial, bmwgsbill
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:30 AM   #29
bobhclark
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Thanks for the guidance!

I was going to do this a year ago but chickened out. With a little more courage and the help here this job is not too hard. I did a few variations:

I removed the five screws attaching the oil tank and radiator - did not loosen or undo any tube connections. I was able to get the 8mm socket, hex extension, and handle from the KTM tool set in position to remove / replace the lower flange screw. I got the upper screw with the 8mm end wrench. I dropped and for 20 minutes lost the upper screw. I found it behind the battery.

The idle adjusting tail comes right out with the carbs once you pop out the air box grommet.

I still have to do the valve clearance check / adjustment and head nut replacement. I'm gonna do the clutch rod replacement and water pump rebuild as well this go round, so it will be awhile before I get to see how well the ectomies help.

Thanks again for the info.

Bob
04 950 Adv
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:50 AM   #30
MookieBlaylock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frequencydrive
You cap the left side carb vents and leave hoses on the right side vents, running them to a convenient place for future carb syncing.
vacume lines. carb vents underneath carbs
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