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Old 10-04-2007, 02:34 PM   #31
jsrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frequencydrive
You cap the left side carb vents and leave hoses on the right side vents, running them to a convenient place for future carb syncing. These hoses need to be capped or somehow sealed.
Before you started the job, one of the hoses was attached to a long tab on the bottom rear of the airbox. After the job it can be capped in the same way. The knurled metal plug that you're supposed to unplug to drain fuel from your canister can now be used to cap the other hose.
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Old 10-26-2007, 10:27 AM   #32
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Hey gents,

I just got 'home' (i.e., back on US soil but not in my garage or on my computer) from a brief culinary vacation in Afghanistan where I dined on flat bread and goat meat for a couple a weeks. I returned to where I had left my bike to find it had taken a nap while I was out of town (blown over from the Kansas wind).

Not only did my oil decide to migrate to the airbox but I expertly forgot to turn off my petcock which resulted in an exemplary case of hydrolock (probably happened even before the bike blew over).

I used the 6th gear technique to break the lock but my oil reservoir was so full of gas and it was running like crap from oil in the airbox that I had to get the bike torn apart for a clean up.

Not really a big deal except that I just did major services 882.3 miles ago.....grrrrrrr.

Anyways, I need a hand with something if'n you guys can accomodate.

My dealer performed the cannisterectomy when I bought the bike. He removed everything and installed blanking plates but left the vacuum valve pictured below (photo credits to the OP) installed on the underside of the airbox.

CURRENT VACUUM CONFIGURATION:

The rear left intake vent is open via a standard hose.

The front left intake vent is still connected to the vacuum valve.

Both right side intake vents are capped.

Since the bike was running fine, I have always opted to leave the vacuum valve and intake vents alone.

However, on re-assemble after cleaning everything up, I accidentally ripped the vertical rubber tube shown below, the one that comes up through the airbox to receive the carb vent 'Y' fitting.

Connecting the white plastic 'y' tube from the carb vents is moot since the rip in the rubber tube is above the floor of the airbox.

Sooooooooo, of course now I want to go ahead and simply ditch the vacuum valve.





My proposal is to remove the vacuum valve and cap all the vacuum lines as per everybody else's configuration here in the Crush.

Here are my 2 questions:

1) If I cap the left rear intake vent, will that force me to change my current carb set up? Should I simply leave well enough alone and leave that one intake vented?

2) If I run a hose from the Y fitting straight down through the airbox without the restriction of the vacuum valve, does that pose a danger of venting fuel straight to a hot engine? (Every time I've pulled the carbs off, the carb vent lines have been 'charged' so that's why I'm wondering if I need to run around town trying to rig a little air filter evaporator like Lord Flanny did).

Thanks gents for the help....being on the road (or off the road in my case) away from my garage is a bit of inconvenience. I've got to get up and running and don't have time to start fiddling with my carb. By the same token, I don't want to have to take the tank off again to mess with things. I'd like to button 'er up and get back home.

Thanks again!
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Old 10-26-2007, 10:49 AM   #33
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?1) both of those brass nipples need to be caped one way or another. I plugged one side w/a 6mm bolt, the other I left a length of hose same as the other intake for carb sync in the future. Those hoses need to be capped though. Use the knurled one for one side, For the time being just stick the other one on the metal stick where it was stock.

2) Just run a 2" length of hose (5/16 works), if I remember correctly, down. I've dumbed my bike plenty of time and it has not started on fire yet.

Where the valve bolted up under the box. Get some 6mm nuts and use the bolts and Alum. washers that are on there stock to keep those holes plugged up. Just a thought.

Does that make sense?

Good luck , and glad you're back safe.
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Old 10-26-2007, 10:54 AM   #34
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You rock, brother.

So, you don't think closing the one open vacuum line will force me to fiddle with the carbs?
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Old 10-26-2007, 10:58 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NothingClever
You rock, brother.

So, you don't think closing the one open vacuum line will force me to fiddle with the carbs?
If it was tuned w/ that line off/open/unplugged, it was a bad setup to begin w/. I could suck dirt into you motor, it is a vacuum line. NOT good. Close everything up and run it. It sucks, but there is only one way to find out for sure.
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Old 10-26-2007, 11:09 AM   #36
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Dude, you're awesome. I'm going to recommend you for Deputy Back Fence Watcher at the next annual AdvRider Forum Awards .

Thanks a ton !!
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Old 10-26-2007, 11:12 AM   #37
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K.i.s.s.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NothingClever
SNIP>>>

Here are my 2 questions:

1) If I cap the left rear intake vent, will that force me to change my current carb set up? Should I simply leave well enough alone and leave that one intake vented?
None of the vacuum lines should be vented (if I understand your description). Plug the left side, and run hoses off the right side (if you don't already have them) and plug them for future use in syncing the carbs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NothingClever
2) If I run a hose from the Y fitting straight down through the airbox without the restriction of the vacuum valve, does that pose a danger of venting fuel straight to a hot engine? (Every time I've pulled the carbs off, the carb vent lines have been 'charged' so that's why I'm wondering if I need to run around town trying to rig a little air filter evaporator like Lord Flanny did).
You can do all kinds of things with those vents, butt I have found going back to the original configuration (as in the '03's and early '04's) with individual vents for each float bowl directly out the bottom of the airbox as in this Tech Bulletin TB0309
works the best for me. I haven't imolated myself or my beloved Lippizanner yet, butt no guarrantee's you won't. This method does allow the bike to run it's best without a lot of effort or added complexity to your bike and was good enough for the Works Rally Bikes. Butt, I'm a back to basics type guy. YMMV, of course.
More info at:
http://www.ktm950.info/how/canistere...terectomy.html
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.


cpmodem screwed with this post 10-26-2007 at 11:17 AM
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Old 10-26-2007, 01:30 PM   #38
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My bad

Oooops, doubled with CJ. Sorry 'bout dat bro'
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmodem
None of the vacuum lines should be vented (if I understand your description). Plug the left side, and run hoses off the right side (if you don't already have them) and plug them for future use in syncing the carbs.
Yep, that's the configuration I set up this afternoon. For the life of me, I haven't been able to figure out why the dealer set me up with fresh, unfiltered air between carburetion and combustion. I'm new to carbs but it doesn't take a genius to figure out that doesn't make much sense. It did, nonetheless, run superbly up to 14k feet over the summer with the old configuration.

Unfortunately, going to the BTB set up has rendered the carb set up ineffective now. Hopefully I don't need to re-jet. My screws WERE at 2.25 front and 2.75 rear but the bike was way rich on fuel so I dialed the front one out to 2.5 and left the rear at 2.75. A little better but still no cigar. I'm not sure how much more I can dial the screws out....I've never heard of anybody going all the way to 3 before.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmodem
You can do all kinds of things with those vents, butt I have found going back to the original configuration (as in the '03's and early '04's) with individual vents for each float bowl directly out the bottom of the airbox as in this Tech Bulletin TB0309
works the best for me.......Butt, I'm a back to basics type guy.
I used the existing Y and ran a single 5/16" - 7,9mm fuel line straight south and fashioned a plug. I don't know why I was befuddled with that one. Must be scared since I'm not surrounded with my woobie garage.

And roger, the HOW is looking great. Thank you for taking the time to collect the wisdom and put it somewhere easily reviewed. Maybe I can contribute during my year chasing goats.
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:28 PM   #40
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Question Plug?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NothingClever
SNIP>>> I used the existing Y and ran a single 5/16" - 7,9mm fuel line straight south and fashioned a plug.
Where is the plug you talk about above? Not in the vent line I hope
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:49 PM   #41
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The plug I made replaces the knurled nut plug that used to be on the old carb vent drain hose, the one that ran south from the vacuum valve.

Hmmmm....maybe I just stumbled over why I'm struggling to get more air in my carbs.

Guess I'll give that a shot in the morning when I get back to the bike.

Thanks again, CP.
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Old 10-26-2007, 09:13 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NothingClever
The plug I made replaces the knurled nut plug that used to be on the old carb vent drain hose, the one that ran south from the vacuum valve.

Hmmmm....maybe I just stumbled over why I'm struggling to get more air in my carbs.

Guess I'll give that a shot in the morning when I get back to the bike.

Thanks again, CP.

With that setup - plugged carb vent lines - you should have had surging or a wandering idle. I made a overly complex drain line and filter assembly to hook into the Y adaptor. It is pretty good, but I'm going with CP's 250mm and 275mm vents when I tear her apart for winter. My setup isn't quite perfect yet. Idle wanders but only by 100 rpm high it seems.

Hmmm... actually - you should have been fuel starved when the throttle was open. With the vent lines plugged, the diaphrams wouldn't have pulled the needles as far as they should for the given manifold vacuum and air flow. I don't have a guess what the affect on the float blows would have been, though.

Maybe plug your vac leaks, correctly vent the carbs, and get your mixture screws back to stock and start from there. I didn't have to touch my mixture (FMF Q's, 700 ft. ASL, all jets stock, 3rd clip w/ shims as factory)

Also, there is a barb on that back right of the air cleaner assembly. Leave the tube fittings installed on the right side of the intake passages and run 2 lengths of hose back to the barb. Shove one line on the barb and plug the other one with an aluminum rivet - not a pop rivet. Use some of your leftover hose clamps to secure the one hose to the barb and the rivet in the free hose. Zip tie the free hose to the one on the barb. Makes for easier carb sync checks.

Monty_Burns screwed with this post 10-26-2007 at 09:20 PM
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Old 10-27-2007, 05:31 PM   #43
NothingClever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no_bmw_for_me
With that setup - plugged carb vent lines - you should have had surging or a wandering idle.
Ditched the plug....bike runs normal again. Normal = raped ape.

Despite all the fiddling it takes to pull the carbs, this bike is a pleasure to work on. I'm glad it's commonly viewed as a PITA because that means a lot of people who bought a 950 will get rid of it after it collects dust in the garage. That means more pristine 950s for me in the future. I hope to keep a 950 or two in the inventory much like fanatics have collected TransAlps and the like over the years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by no_bmw_for_me
Also, there is a barb on that back right of the air cleaner assembly. Leave the tube fittings installed on the right side of the intake passages and run 2 lengths of hose back to the barb. Shove one line on the barb and plug the other one with an aluminum rivet - not a pop rivet. Use some of your leftover hose clamps to secure the one hose to the barb and the rivet in the free hose. Zip tie the free hose to the one on the barb. Makes for easier carb sync checks.
Mission complete on that.

Orange Crush rules. Thanks to cjracer, cpmodem and no_bmw for all the great help. You guys are, on the average, about $300 cheaper than a dealer .
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Old 10-27-2007, 07:26 PM   #44
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Wink Life is good

Glad it worked out well for you, brother.
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Old 10-28-2007, 12:32 PM   #45
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Canisterectomy & EPS

I'm not sure if this has been covered in the canisterectomy threads, EPC, Electronic Power Control, removal? Are the hoses on the carb tops/slide covers vents or what. I read on KTM HOW they plugged these. Does any one have a comment.
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