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Old 03-18-2008, 09:40 PM   #61
cpmodem
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Joined: Nov 2004
Location: masa yee yah tee 59 14' 9" N / 135 26' 42" W
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DakarNick
I know, I should let sleeping dogs lie, but...

On the float bowl vents T-ing under the carbs in the airbox. Why is T-ing them ok and why does the TSB say to make them 275 mm/250 mm and run the separate?

Mine is T-ed, and I ran a hose to the skid plate instead of clipping it an inch under the airbox.

Also, the right side vacuum lines are still there but have been plugged for future carb synching.
The 275mm 250 mm individual hose method is what was the original bowl vent design. These were seen on 2003 and early 2004 bikes. The canister on those bikes was used with the fuel tank vents only. The carbs were vented to atmosphere through said individual lines to a point under the airbox. The lengths specified in the TSB you refered to position the vents at the very bottom of the "V" formed by the cylinders. Right next to the starter.

On later bikes the vacumn valve was also connected to the carb bowl vents. Since there was only one open fitting left on the valve (Mikuni), the carb vents were wyed together in the airbox and the single line from the wye went directly into the Mikuni valve which was bolted to the bottom outside of the airbox (early bikes located the valve next to the canister).

You can, of course, leave the wye in place and run a single line to the outside of the airbox sans the vacumn valve. Many have done it that way. The dual line retrofit is mearly us "purists" trying to get our Katooms back to the way the original engineers designed it. IOW, as far from the smog feces as possible.

I would leave said hose to terminate in the same place as the dual vents, in the "V" next to the starter, though. Some folks have reported odd anomalies when long lengths of carb vent hoses or elaborate routing of the hose was done. KISS is the operative word here. No gain is to be made by elaborate routing methods. Same goes for the tank vents. Elaborate routing methods and devices just add to the complexity of what should be very simple. Complexity is just asking for problems sometime in the future.

Just sayin
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 03-19-2008, 08:24 PM   #62
DakarNick
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Location: Parker, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpmodem
The 275mm 250 mm individual hose method is what was the original bowl vent design...
CP, thanks as always! You explained that very well! I will be removing the longer hose and let it termintate just under the airbox!
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Old 06-05-2008, 04:22 PM   #63
teti
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Location: alejandro roca (cba) argentina
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estimados escribo en castellano y pido ayuda a kiwi para q traduzca, q opinan de quitar el SLS o aire secundario con los escapes originales, ya q e leido en algunos post q no es aconsejable, q saben ustedes?,

saludos atte

teti

What my friend Teti wants to know is if it's advisable to remove the SAS while keeping the stock mufflers on, as he has read somewhere that this might not be a good idea... suggestions, anyone?

He also apologizes if there is any thread on this particular topic already bouncing around, but he hasn't found any.

Ok, I did my part, now I'll shut up.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=349142

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Old 06-05-2008, 05:51 PM   #64
teti
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Location: alejandro roca (cba) argentina
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la otra pregunta es en las 990 con EFI, si sacamos todo de raiz (cables y valvulas) la ECU informa error ? , hay q hacer algun cableado para evitar esto ?

pido nuevamente ayuda a kiwi

gracias y saludos a todos

teti
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