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Old 12-17-2010, 06:47 AM   #46
cueball
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Location: lake serene, ms. at least it was 'til i moved in!!
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add pic

i think i may have figured out this new pic thing
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cueball screwed with this post 12-17-2010 at 08:06 AM
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:17 AM   #47
hupjoy
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I think i gots it...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo-Tarded View Post
Hup: Enable your PM capability.

- Robert
I think i just figured that out - thanks, Robert!

Also, yes - good info on the light conversion. It's next on my list!
I found the Giant Loop link on another forum here - what a great product. You never have problems with it hitting your pipe?
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:09 AM   #48
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Whoa, whoa whoa

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zecatfish View Post
Remember the LC4 only has a 200 watt stator.
It actually discharges slightly at idle with stock headlight (assuming halogen is OEM).
So remember that before before you go hog wild in the lighting thing.
Okay, so can you translate some of this into "made-for-unfrozen-ape-man-idiot" language?

What do you mean when you say it will discharge at idle? That it'll drain the battery @ low rpm?

Also, what is a Boatman Conversion? Any links to threads about this one?

Dudes, your patience is downright Tibetan. I know I'm slow. I also am overwhelmed with gratitude/excitement to be a part of a new/so damned well informed/willing to share info community.
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:25 AM   #49
Sparrowhawk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hupjoy View Post
I think i just figured that out - thanks, Robert!

Also, yes - good info on the light conversion. It's next on my list!
I found the Giant Loop link on another forum here - what a great product. You never have problems with it hitting your pipe?
Nope. It can press the left side number plate against the pipe depending on slight mounting adjustments. They used to come with a stick-on heat shield sheet that I put on the inside of the number plate. I don't know if that's still true or not. GiantLoop's new metal heat shield would cure any problems along that line.

One warning though. If you are one of those folks that worry about shiny and nice plastic, it does sit against the number plates and will leave rub marks. That might worry me if it was some kind of cruiser, but it's a dirt bike after all. If you ride it like a dirt bike, the plastic will get scratched with or without baggage. It's nice not to have metal luggage brackets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hupjoy View Post
What do you mean when you say it will discharge at idle? That it'll drain the battery @ low rpm?
Alternators put out more electricity at 3,000 rpm than they do at 1,000 but a bike's ignition and lights use essentially the same amount regardelss of engine speed. Some bikes have big alternators that can power multiple high power halogen lights, electric clothing, heated grips, and more. The LC4 has plenty of alternator for good lighting, especially if you move towards LED or HID. On the other hand, the LC4 would run into problems if you hooked up Baja Designs dual 8" halogen light with 100W bulbs in each.

I'm sure Zecatfish is correct. If you started up an LC4 (or most any bike for that matter), turned on the lights, and just let it idle, the battery would probably drain after a few tanks of gas. it has plenty of juice to keep the battery chaged if you ride it at slow speeds around town or on the trail with a single 60W halogen headlight and tail light lit. You just have to keep the alternator's capabilities in mind when adding a bunch of electrical stuff.

Sparrowhawk screwed with this post 12-17-2010 at 09:44 AM
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:06 AM   #50
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Yeahps!

This is all helpful, thanks!!
And BTW - if any of you all ever get out to Vegas and wanna see the Blue Man Group show for FREE, lemme know! I might be able to get a couple tix for my fellow LC4ers!!!
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Old 12-17-2010, 01:06 PM   #51
cueball
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here's a link to the boatman conversion:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...hlight=BOATMAN
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:04 PM   #52
Mo-Tarded
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The first recommendation I'd make is to get the later model footpegs. They are MUCH more comfortable and improves riding leverage through the pegs.

You can find a set of pegs cheap on eBay and the carrier can be purchased through the web (or local dealer).

The next thing I did was improve the brake pedal by extending it. It was very simple. I used the old peg and using a sawzall, cut the peg apart to where the same "V" shape of the peg fits exactly onto the "V" shape of the brake pedal (they make extensions, but I wanted mine even bigger since riding with the big tank makes me ride "duck-footed" (toes pointed outward).

I lined the two up, drilled through the brake pedal, drilled through the old peg and put them together with small fasteners. The only risk of this is catching it on obstacles and of course it doesn't fold. I'll take the risk with additional riding comfort. Another option would be to get the later model fold-up pedal (at some more than expected cost).

I get some pics when I can get the scoot out of the shoehorned line-up.

The main jet upper is a must if it has not been previously installed.

The only other thing which is subject to personal preference and riding area is the gearing. I bumped mine up to a 17 tooth CS sprocket. The 17 tooth guard (~$45) has to be purchased to allow the sprocket to be installed.

Add gas and voile' ! It's only a matter of which way do we ride from there !
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:08 PM   #53
hupjoy
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Eh? Yes!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mo-Tarded View Post
The first recommendation I'd make is to get the later model footpegs. They are MUCH more comfortable and improves riding leverage through the pegs.

You can find a set of pegs cheap on eBay and the carrier can be purchased through the web (or local dealer).

The next thing I did was improve the brake pedal by extending it. It was very simple. I used the old peg and using a sawzall, cut the peg apart to where the same "V" shape of the peg fits exactly onto the "V" shape of the brake pedal (they make extensions, but I wanted mine even bigger since riding with the big tank makes me ride "duck-footed" (toes pointed outward).

I lined the two up, drilled through the brake pedal, drilled through the old peg and put them together with small fasteners. The only risk of this is catching it on obstacles and of course it doesn't fold. I'll take the risk with additional riding comfort. Another option would be to get the later model fold-up pedal (at some more than expected cost).

I get some pics when I can get the scoot out of the shoehorned line-up.

The main jet upper is a must if it has not been previously installed.

The only other thing which is subject to personal preference and riding area is the gearing. I bumped mine up to a 17 tooth CS sprocket. The 17 tooth guard (~$45) has to be purchased to allow the sprocket to be installed.

Add gas and voile' ! It's only a matter of which way do we ride from there !
This is awesome info!!
Ok, so pardon my total stupidity/newbieness, but what is a "main jet upper" - part of the carb?
DUHHHHHHH.
So green. Can you smell how green I am?

Thank you!
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:10 AM   #54
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comfort seat

Hey, gang - anyone have or have a line on a comfort seat for sale used?
Or perhaps it's best if I recover the plank that's on there meself...thoughts?
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Old 12-18-2010, 07:10 PM   #55
Sparrowhawk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hupjoy View Post
This is awesome info!!
Ok, so pardon my total stupidity/newbieness, but what is a "main jet upper" - part of the carb?
DUHHHHHHH.
So green. Can you smell how green I am?

Thank you!
I don't know if you've found this yet or not but there is a great wealth of information on LC4s available here. Most topics on the Adventure model apply to the "E".

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86958
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:58 AM   #56
Mo-Tarded
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Hup: See the threads there for jetting (sorry I should have ref'd to to that page too).

I went directly with the 160 (main "upper") and the 45 pilot. BIG difference.

My scoot has the stock muffler, but I am thinking about an AM unit, or doing the mod that is also in the Creeper mod's thread. I assume that would resolve some of the engine braking symptoms that I'm not quite giddy about.

Good luck finding a comfort seat used and in good shape. I actually had one, but realizing that it wasn't much more comfortable than the stock one I had, I sold it.
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Old 12-19-2010, 11:15 AM   #57
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...and here is a picture of the brake mod I did. Looks a litle funky, but it works very well and it was free (well, free considering I had the take-off pegs just sitting there).

You can see the relationship of the peg alignment to the old brake pedal and how difficult it would be to get to in my "ducked-out" riding posture.

I get off that bike after riding it off-road and feel like I was riding a horse (compared to my CRF for example)

I can't bend my knees in that much to get to the pedal nor am I able to squeeze the tank that hard with my legs spread that wide !

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Old 12-19-2010, 05:51 PM   #58
hupjoy
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Whoa!

That looks fantastic!
Looks like some serious sure-footed braking.
I see the difference in the footpeg size, too (stock to the newer ones). Are your new pegs from the Adventure? Mine have what looks like a smaller one surrounded by a larger bit - I think the smaller part in the middle once had rubber on it. But that mod looks totally great. I see how it'd be handy.
As for the seat - I'm tempted to just recover it myself - always wanted to do it to one of my former bikes but never had the time. Now that I'm gainfully unemployed, might be time to burn a little midday oil in the garage.

I read a thread about an ADVer who mounted a bracket and headlights from a Honda Ruckus on his Suzuki - I'm wondering if I could pull this off with my LC4e. Looks great and is a nice cheap way to get decent, bright bugeyes...unless there is some electrical schizm between Japanese and Austrian motorcycles...thoughts?

hupjoy screwed with this post 12-19-2010 at 05:58 PM
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Old 12-19-2010, 05:55 PM   #59
hupjoy
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ruckus lights

here's a link to the thread about the Ruckus lights mod...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...kus+headlights
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:09 PM   #60
clintnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hupjoy View Post
here's a link to the thread about the Ruckus lights mod...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...kus+headlights
No reason why that won't work, wire them in via a relay with a fused heavier feed direct from the battery as the stock wiring is quite light. Another option I've seen is Buell dual lights, a touch smaller but they still work pretty well apparently. Just remember you only have at best 200W total to play with. I have run 60W main beam plus 55W spot for extended periods on the highway with no problems but never tried it at low revs for too long.

One potential downside of the bigger, later model foot pegs is the Aluminium LH bracket needed to fit them, this bends easier than the steel stocker if you plan on crashing lots. I just welded some extra length on my std pegs.

Cheers
Clint
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