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Old 04-05-2006, 06:17 PM   #31
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markgsnw
typically, you use a relay so that a small current through a switch (in this case, the horn button) controls a larger current through the relay circuit. As R_W points out, running a larger current though a switch than it is rated for will toast the switch and perhaps the wiring as well.

Same reason why you want to use a relay with auxilary lights...small current goes through the switch, large current/large wiring for the lights. Relays and fuses are cheap, switches are not, wiring fires are very expensive.
I understand the concept of a relay (I studied lectronics at trade school many moons ago) but I am still curious as to what effect NOT using a relay will have on the horn itself, all other things equal.

Just curious s'all
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Old 04-05-2006, 06:33 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264
all other things equal.
The switch is not equal to the relay. That is way you should use the relay. Like using a wire rated at 1 amp in a 10 amp circuit. A dim glow will result?
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Old 04-05-2006, 07:49 PM   #33
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nautilus

this seems to be hangin' around, so I'll chime in. Yep, they sucked for 3 different horns - THAT ANDREW MADE RIGHT EACH TIME!!!

But, I got a newer model/design that has been installed by my mechanic and is approx 1 year old now and it is FINE, LOUD, and just what I bought it for.

My mechanic says no further electrics are needed - relay, fuse, et al. He must be correct.
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Old 04-05-2006, 08:08 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sti_rx7
Forget about expensive Stebel horns!!!! Go to your local auto parts store and buy some cheaper. The ones made by Wolo are supposed to be the same ones as the Fiamms only with different coloring and labels. They are trumpet shaped and I've replace all my bikes horns with these. They are loud as anything out there. I like to low tone because sound like a semi horn. Everybody jumps when they hear this I can't imagine two of these paired up. I never ran a relay or separate fuse and so far worked great on my BMW's, KLR, FJR, Cagiva and have one sitting in the garage waiting for the KTM 950. Cost about $12.
At $35, they're not all that expensive. You mean you can spend less money and get a loud horn? Gee.
Some of us like the Nautilus and are just interested in making it work better for us, that's all.
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Old 04-05-2006, 08:25 PM   #35
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A set of horns from a Linconl Continental should run you about 10.00 from a local boneyard..have fun...super loud.
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Old 04-06-2006, 12:15 AM   #36
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I've got one of those gizmos that measures electrons

What's the range of values the horn can live with?
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:27 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Warner
The switch is not equal to the relay. That is way you should use the relay. Like using a wire rated at 1 amp in a 10 amp circuit. A dim glow will result?
I know the switch is not equal to the relay what I meant was when all things such as cable length, gauge of cable used etc. was the same. I understand the effects on the switch, cable etc. when NOT using a relay or using the wrong gauge but if the only difference is using a relay or not, what effect does this have on the horn (and the horn alone).

Nobody seems to have an answer. I'm curious as I have other electrical devices that I dont use a relay with.
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:57 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrichard
Even I can see that not supplying enough current might keep it from producing max sound but how does that "burn it up much faster"?
I think the use of the relay and installing it properly assures that you have done it right.

The absence of the relay may be a good clue that the wiring was insufficient.

Electrically, there is no difference to the horn if the power passes through a relay or not - assuming that the wiring/switch can handle the current.

These Stebel horns are much louder than any car horn. They're ridiculous. If you don't think so, I would suspect that the one you heard was not getting full power or wired wrong.
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Old 04-06-2006, 10:02 AM   #39
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ_Bob
I think the use of the relay and installing it properly assures that you have done it right.

The absence of the relay may be a good clue that the wiring was insufficient.

Electrically, there is no difference to the horn if the power passes through a relay or not - assuming that the wiring/switch can handle the current.
That was my exact thought. Using a relay is good and not using one is bad
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:52 PM   #40
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[QUOTE=bigrichard]I've got one of those gizmos that measures electrons QUOTE]

a flux capacitor?
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:20 PM   #41
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[QUOTE=Ayrshire Bull]
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrichard
I've got one of those gizmos that measures electrons QUOTE]

a flux capacitor?


aye, pass a few o'them electron buggers over here
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:22 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264
I know the switch is not equal to the relay what I meant was when all things such as cable length, gauge of cable used etc. was the same. I understand the effects on the switch, cable etc. when NOT using a relay or using the wrong gauge but if the only difference is using a relay or not, what effect does this have on the horn (and the horn alone).

Nobody seems to have an answer. I'm curious as I have other electrical devices that I dont use a relay with.


a relay is just a switch, so all other things be equal, there's no difference.

but I suppose the point is, all other things aren't equal in this situation.
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Old 04-06-2006, 09:38 PM   #43
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[QUOTE=Ayrshire Bull]
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrichard
I've got one of those gizmos that measures electrons QUOTE]

a flux capacitor?
No, a yardstick :grinner
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Old 04-06-2006, 10:20 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264
I'm curious as I have other electrical devices that I dont use a relay with.
Yer a cat killer.

The loud horn draws what ?20 amps. The standard horn draws 10? The standard horn switch mght be rated for 15 amps. Put 20 amps through something rated at 15 amps and ?

One switch does not mean it will do the same job as another switch - some are for switching low power, others for high power, some for low voltage, others for high voltage. Like motorcycles - some are good for pizza delivery, others are not.
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Old 04-11-2006, 08:51 PM   #45
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Electrical Stuff 101

It ain't the RELAY that makes it work right. It is the fact that your stock horn wiring is very small gauge wire. If you run 10 gauge wire from the battery to the relay to the horn to ground, ANY horn will be louder than if you simply use the stock wiring.

Why? Because of the voltage drop occurs when you pass high current through small wire. Let's say your small wire has a total of one ohm of resistance in the horn circuit. Your horn will not work very well. Why? Because a horn drawing 10 Amps running through one ohm drops (V=I*R) ten volts. This is why your air horn requires a relay (and FAT wiring). If you run a DC motor with voltage that is too low, the contacts arc and burn rather than simply rotate the motor. Horn lifetime is greatly reduced.

FWIW, I wired my horn to a relay and ran 10 gauge wire from the battery, through a fuse to the relay to the + terminal of the horn. Then I ran 10 gauge wire from the - terminal to a good solid frame ground. There is NFW I installed it electrically wrong or physically oriented wrong. Now that I found my receipt, I emailed Andrew and got a very strange autoreply or bounce message, I can't tell which.
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