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Old 04-11-2006, 09:08 PM   #46
Frank Warner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash412
I emailed Andrew and got a very strange autoreply or bounce message, I can't tell which.
We all know that! Computers suck more than horns. Or anything really. Even bms are better than computers.
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Old 04-25-2006, 08:16 PM   #47
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I got my replacement Stebel horn today from Andrew. I couldn't find the original receipt and he let me send it back anyway. Great customer service
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Old 04-25-2006, 10:12 PM   #48
BMWs2Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markgsnw
a relay is just a switch, so all other things be equal, there's no difference
You are right in the sense that both close contacts. However the relay is rated for much higher current.
Lets say the horn draws 10 amps. The horn switch is rated for 5 A, and the relay is rated for 15 A. What is going to happen if you do not use the relay is that you are going to burn out your horn switch because it was not designed to handle that amount of current. It will work for a awhile, but it will fail sooner rather than later.
The stock wiring is probably OK, but why risk it. The CORRECT way to wire this horn up is to use the horn switch and stock wiring to drive the relay, and the relay to drive the horn.
Yes, I am an engineer.
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Old 04-26-2006, 12:31 AM   #49
bigrichard
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Isn't there already a horn relay?

I was looking at 1150GS wiring diagrams the other day and what to my wondering eyes should appear but a horn relay

Being a 'lectrical retard I don't know if the wiring diagrams conform to reality
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Old 05-03-2006, 02:29 AM   #50
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If ya take the seat off there's a relay lookin thing right where the horn relay's sposed ta be...
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Old 05-24-2006, 03:44 AM   #51
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bump
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Old 05-24-2006, 12:46 PM   #52
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I've seen a lot of people wire these in with heavy gauge wiring to the battery and then use some dental floss connecting to the ground???
Mine 's been a charm , I used heavy gauge wiring,everything soldered and heat shrink tubing.
If I do have to replace it once a year, I've had it for two, $35 is well worth the sight of the completely shocked people dropping their cell phone and careening out of my way thinking a train is bearing down on them.
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Old 05-25-2006, 03:13 AM   #53
bigrichard
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It's great fun to zap cagers with the soul satisfying Stebel sonic surge

But why we need two relays??
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:17 AM   #54
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Another Bump

Can anyone else support this? Is there already a relay for the horn?
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Old 06-08-2006, 08:23 AM   #55
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Update

I think I'm going to start another thread on this in case people don't read through four pages to get to my question.
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:40 PM   #56
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264
I understand the concept of a relay (I studied lectronics at trade school many moons ago) but I am still curious as to what effect NOT using a relay will have on the horn itself, all other things equal.

Just curious s'all
Revisit ohm's law, study back EMF (from motors), heat in motor windings and other related 'lectrical stuff.....a motor is a power circuit.

If you don't provide adequate current, the motor, switch contacts and wiring are all overloaded and subquently overheated. Heat=death.
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:42 PM   #57
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillJ
Can anyone else support this? Is there already a relay for the horn?
My '01 GS has both a horn relay and a 7.5 fused horn circuit. While I have not checked, I suspect the 7.5 fuse protects the relay coil circuit, horn switch and associated wiring, not the load circuit. But, this is easy to check with a VOM.
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Old 03-15-2007, 04:48 PM   #58
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWs2Dave
You are right in the sense that both close contacts. However the relay is rated for much higher current.
Lets say the horn draws 10 amps. The horn switch is rated for 5 A, and the relay is rated for 15 A. What is going to happen if you do not use the relay is that you are going to burn out your horn switch because it was not designed to handle that amount of current. It will work for a awhile, but it will fail sooner rather than later.
The stock wiring is probably OK, but why risk it. The CORRECT way to wire this horn up is to use the horn switch and stock wiring to drive the relay, and the relay to drive the horn.
Yes, I am an engineer.
Also Dave, these air horns contain a motor..I suspect the inrush current at contact closure is very high.....maybe 20-30 amps...there also may be a capacitor in the motor circuit or another current sucking component somewhere...tell 'em Dave......JUST USE THE DAMN RELAY!
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Old 03-16-2007, 05:15 AM   #59
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def
Revisit ohm's law, study back EMF (from motors), heat in motor windings and other related 'lectrical stuff.....a motor is a power circuit.

If you don't provide adequate current, the motor, switch contacts and wiring are all overloaded and subquently overheated. Heat=death.
That's why I said...all other things equal. If you have wire of sufficiant capacity AND a switch that can handle the current, you don't have to use a relay. On my installation (and most if not all bikes) you HAVE to use a relay since the horn switch will NOT handle 20A for very long (if at all).

That was my only point.
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Old 05-18-2007, 07:58 PM   #60
Jaybird248
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Feeble Stebel?

Mine was. But I simply tightened all connections and it again was its loudmouth self.

Check all connections because the symptoms you describe were just what I had. The loosey-goosey wiring on mine was at the relay.

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