|04-09-2006, 08:29 AM||#18|
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Sometimes in Hillsburrito
Por la Libre - Cuernavaca to Guadalajara
Our next target after leaving
Once out of the mountains, the landscape flattens and you start rolling through small towns, their respective agricultural areas and mandatory topes every 5 meters. There is quite a bit of traffic here, as the center of
Despite the traffic we made it to Metepec (and then
We wanted to go visit Myrna and Juan in
In order to avoid the
After miles and miles of not seeing a gas station on the highway, I started to think that maybe the highway to
We made it to
Horse drawn carriages are popular downtown Guadalajara:
The other visit we made was to Tequila, home to the original beverage by the same name. There are numerous distilleries in town, but one of the better tours is at Jose Cuervo. Not being big tequila fans, it was a very educational tour, you get to see the whole process, converting a piña to 110 proof tequila (we got a small sample of that, man, does this thing clear your sinuses ) and later to something a bit less strong (everything is relative... ) that most people can actually drink. We also happened to be in town when a wedding ceremony was ending in the main church, they had mariachi playing for the guests as the exited to the town's main plaza, and it was a very festive atmosphere.
Mariachis in Tequila:
They don´t serve in smaller bottles in Tequila:
Piñas in an old carriage:
Old cars in the Jose Cuervo factory, said to have been the originals used to transport Jose Cuervo barrels:
Stocking piñas into the ovens for cooking:
Future Tequila :
Agave harvester statute in the Cuervo factory:
Plaza Hidalgo, Tequila:
Gustavo screwed with this post 07-18-2006 at 04:26 PM
|04-09-2006, 08:49 AM||#19|
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Sometimes in Hillsburrito
Por la Libre - Puerto Vallarta
We had an invitation from Jose Luis (another of my Motoaventuras friends) to spend New Year’s with him and his family in
Technically, there is really only one road option between
Old mission in Mascota:
The road out of Mascota was gorgeous, but this area gets heavy rains, and it seems to suffer from some very serious mud slides when it rains. Many sections of the road had been washed away or were covered with dirt from the slides. There is a section that used to have a bridge that was completely washed away, so you take a very steep one lane (controlled access, surprisingly but luckily, it’s not wide enough for two cars to go side by side) detour down to a river, do a river crossing (through roughly 30 cm or 1 ft this time of the year, but I have heard about it being too deep to cross even in tall pickup trucks) of running water and then climb steeply on the other bank to re-join the road. The road was even better on the other side of the river, but it too suffered from many slides. I named this road the best road in worst condition I had ever ridden. Just when you start feeling comfortable and picking up some speed a corner comes up with sand/dirt/ rocks/no pavement to keep you on your toes. I had a blast. I made good time to
Pickup conversion in Puerto Vallarta:
Noel and Johan enjoying Noel's excellent fish recipe:
Where did we get to? I was in
We had a traditional New Year's dinner, watched the fire works in town (from Jose Luis's house). No signs or phone calls from Ruben yet.
Celebrating New Years with the MotoAventuras crew in Puerto Vallarta (with Tequia, of course ):
The plan for New Year's day was for Jose Luis to show us this beach he says they go to every year, where a lot of the bikers in
On the way to the beach with Noel:
We finally made it to the beach, and it was certainly worth it. It was a small cove outside Bahia Banderas (where
We finally made it to the beach:
Just like Jose Luis said, there were many bikes by the beach, most of them enduro type, as off-roading seems to be more popular than street riding around here. Several dad, mom and kids riding groups, so a real family outing on New Year's day. The restaurant was a bit disappointing, their service was painfully slow. At around we started to leave (big group, takes a while).
Johan and Noel waiting for lunch, and waiting and waiting... :
We were no more than 3 kms from the beach when I spot Jose Luis parked next to another R12GS up ahead. It was Ruben who was just making his way to the beach when he ran into Jose Luis leaving. When they stopped to chat, Jose Luis notices something leaking out of Ruben's engine. It's a black liquid. He tells him to stop the engine, Ruben does, and the rest of his engine's oil is dumped on the ground...
Rubens R12GS had a close encounter with bump. It broke the skip plate mount and draining the sump:
Noel worshiping the dirt god - el guerro Valdez :
Turns out that in Ruben's rush to meet us at the beach, he was going a bit too fast and bottomed his GS' "skid plate" on something. Instead of shearing a bolt, the bolt snapped the rear mount, which is part of the oil sump, and he had been losing his oil over the last 3 kms. OK, so we are about 40 kms from the main road (but Tuito is hardly a place to find a solution for this, just easier to pick up the bike later), we have 300 kg worth of bike and gear to take back to
While Johan and Ruben are gone, we find some guys in a Nissan truck that are willing to help us take the bike to Tuito. We have no ramp. Between 4 of us, we lift the beast up on the (very) short bed of the truck, secure it and send them on their way.
These guys helped us get the bike back to civilization. It took 4 of us to lift the beast:
I offered Noel to give him a ride back to town, so that we wouldn't have to wait for the other two to come back and then start the longish and slow two-up ride on the dirt road. It's getting dark quickly too. Noel was brave (foolish? ) enough to accept the ride, so we left, catching up to the Nissan quickly. It was good to see that these guys were taking it easy with this load in the back, but it also meant we'd have to wait for a while until they got to town. After we passed "our" truck, we caught up with a few more trucks, but it had gotten dark already, so I wasn't sure I could find a safe place to pass (with Noel on the back, I was also worried about clearance) so I fell back and waited for an opportunity. We ate a lot of dust in the process. When we got to Tuito, Noel mentioned how impressed he was with the V-Strom’s suspension, that he thought it handled the dirt road better than his GS. I was very surprised to hear this, as I generally think the GS has better suspension, especially for off-road riding. Jose Luis (or el doc as he is referred to, he is an MD) knows a lot of people in
It took a while to drive that truck on the dirt road. We had to wait for quite a while:
I gave Ruben a ride back to
Gustavo screwed with this post 04-10-2006 at 02:43 PM
|04-09-2006, 09:23 AM||#20|
Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Sometimes in Hillsburrito
Por la Libre - Puerto Vallarta to Chihuahua
I left Puerto Vallarta heading north through San Blas towards
How good a motorcycle road is it? Let me put it this way, it took me 3 hours to do the first 200 kms (120 miles). This is for sure one of the best motorcycle roads I have ever been on. Not the best, because it has a lot of traffic (for a good moto road) and that traffic includes wild semi drivers that use the whole road to negotiate turns much faster than they should. I knew this was an issue, but I almost became a hood ornament on a semi twice, despite being cautious. I was setting up for a tight left hander, on the far right side of the lane, looking for my late apex when a big white semi comes around the corner, cab all the way in my lane. I moved all the way to the right, basically riding the fog line (no shoulder to speak off), and changed my line to a very late apex. I felt him go by, even though the speeds were relatively low, he went by pretty close. So just when I think time to make this bike turn, his buddy in an identical truck appears on the same wide line (they were running very close together). Damn, that was a long moment.
The road from Mazatlan to Durango. If you squint, you can barely make the
road on the far ridge:
Despite the traffic, and the need to be cautious, it was a fantastic ride. I stopped only twice to take pictures. Once, I got stuck behind a police pickup truck. I figured passing them on a double yellow between curves would not be the best way to make friends, so I spotted a place to park (there aren't many, and those that exist, are typically not in the good sections) and took a break. The second was to take the obligatory picture of the sign that reads: Espinazo del Diablo. It's like riding a combination of all the good roads in the PNWet I know put together without connecting straights (or at least very short ones on occasion, so few that you can't remember them).
Going up El Espinazo del Diablo:
El Espinazo del Diablo:
By the time I got to the high plains I was really tired. It's like riding 3 hours straight on the track. Needless to say, it was a lot of fun. I decided to call it a day in
I found a nice hotel a block away from the zocalo. They didn't have parking, but the bell boy assured me that parking on the sidewalk is safe.
|04-09-2006, 11:35 AM||#24|
Joined: Apr 2004
Location: Pacific Northwet
Something like "not much for getting up early, daybreak is temporary"?
I'm trying to learn Spanish. I fear I am a butcher of the language, as it has much connotation that I can only transliterate.
Great read, I like your pics! Keep it coming!
I hope to return from LaPaz this summer via Los Mochis and Copper Canyon.
“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
'06 525 XC "Sledge"
'04 KTM 950 Adventure Thunder
Enough yappin'! Let's ride!
|04-09-2006, 11:41 AM||#25|
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: NoVA... Again.
Awesome report! It's SO Ironic that the 12GS was the one to take the hit on the soft under belly, but the Strom with the oil filter and cooler hanging out in wind was fine!
Also, this is an awesome shot, definatly frame worthy:
"...he wondered if a God subtle enough to invent quantum mechanics would really be intrested in having people deliver rote prayers and swing incense pots in His direction." - Jack McDevitt
|04-09-2006, 11:47 AM||#27|
Joined: Dec 2002
Location: Dancing with roads
That's an epic trip Gustavo. You covered a lot of ground. Well done. Those ruins are impressive. Years ago I did the Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Tulum loop. Need to get down there again someday. Argentina and Patagonia first though.
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