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Old 04-11-2006, 07:18 PM   #1
MotorPsycho Miko OP
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Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Fuquay Varina NC
Oddometer: 63
Eek 2003 DL1000 stalls with PC or Suzuki ECM

Adjusted valves 5000 miles ago at 15,000. Also synched throttle bodies and checked TPS. New plugs, cleaned K&N air filter. It ran great until about 3 weeks ago. After about 250 miles, I rolled to a stop in a little town named Roxboro and the bike died. Idle is set to 1300. It has done this with the Power Commander and the stock ECM. I could not start it until I turned the key to off and then on again. It started right up and ran great. This has happened about 6-8 times. No codes show up on the instruments. Intermittant. Seems to run crappy right before this happens. Any ideas?
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Old 04-11-2006, 07:27 PM   #2
Motoplaner
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Pictures and food and stuff make for good ride reports. No charge.
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Old 04-11-2006, 07:29 PM   #3
MotorPsycho Miko OP
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sorry- put this in the wrong area

oops
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Old 04-12-2006, 04:25 AM   #4
GB
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Mods will move it..
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Old 04-12-2006, 06:06 AM   #5
BikePilot
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Does it only do it when low on fuel? I know my TLS will die if really low on fuel when I get on the brakes, all the fuel slushes to the front of the tank, the fuel pump is in the back of the tank and well, the result is obvious.

Also you might want to re-check the sync and tps just to be sure it hasn't moved in the last 5k miles. What mapp did you have in the PCII? A custom dyno tune? A generic one? If a generic one, you might try richening the idle mixture just a tad.

good luck
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Old 04-12-2006, 06:02 PM   #6
jorge
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Need more info...

Miko i too have the K3 DL1000 around 12K miles no adjust on the valves yet but i have been playing around with the electrical and thought i had it all buttoned up... little test ride...runnin fine...stopped for gas it stalled and would not start... but gadges were spiking every other attempt...pulled the saddle and tightened the Screw on the battery. Thought i was good to go... checked it when i got home and more or less the same thing different day... heck with that i pulled all the connectors off the battery and wire brushed all the contacts replaced the open connectors with closed loop connectos and torked that puppy down with a SS screw. So far i at least feel better about it.

is that the OEM battery? oh and i forgot to mention my Stator fried back in September... i know of four such problems all K3's Bike would start and then die... eventually it would stop starting...thus killing the battery...

Were your valves out? how long did it take to do? good luck with this issue...you'll probably get moved soon. If you don't get any help here try the VSRI forum... PM me if you don't have the link. Jorge.
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Old 04-12-2006, 07:50 PM   #7
MotorPsycho Miko OP
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Thanks to Jorge,BikePilot

It is the original battery but have never had problems with starting. I checked static voltage-it was 12.75 volts. I was running the stock map on the Power Commander-but did the same thing on the Suzuki ECM. The valves were checked at 15,000 but did not have to adjust any- all were within limits. I recover from this problem when it stalls by turning the key to off then on again. Whatever is going on is resolved by a key reset. Then the bike starts right up and idles normally and runs great again. Maybe a bad sensor somewhere or weak fuel pump??????????? This is really pissing me off as I have never had problems in 20,000 miles.
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Old 04-12-2006, 07:56 PM   #8
MotorPsycho Miko OP
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Thanks BikePilot

Forgot to mention it does this on a full tank. I noticed it stalled after I romped on it pretty hard then had to brake fairly hard for a stop. That is why I mentioned the fuel pump or fuel starvation- almost like it can't keep up after full throttle or near full throttle operation(never over red line). I don't baby it but follow the shop manual for maint. intervals.
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Old 04-12-2006, 08:03 PM   #9
vtwin
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Someone on the DL650 group had a problem with it losing power only when cold. Found out it was a bad fuel pump. You may want to swap with a GOOD friend and try it. Good luck.
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Old 04-13-2006, 06:25 AM   #10
BikePilot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorPsycho Miko
Forgot to mention it does this on a full tank. I noticed it stalled after I romped on it pretty hard then had to brake fairly hard for a stop. That is why I mentioned the fuel pump or fuel starvation- almost like it can't keep up after full throttle or near full throttle operation(never over red line). I don't baby it but follow the shop manual for maint. intervals.
My TL1000S (similar motor) did exactly that when stock. I richened up the 0-5% throttle mixture a little bit from 500-1500rpm and a lot from 1500 rpm's to redline. The TLS (and perhaps the DL) are intended to almost completely shut off fuel under decel (i.e 0% throttle and above idle rpms) to improve emissions. It makes for pretty snatchy on/off throttle transition and seems to contribute to stalling immediately after a good hard romp. Anyway, my TLS would consistently stall if you ran it hard then pulled in the clutch and chopped the throttle quickly. After fiddling with the fueling it doesn't do this anymore.

The only difference is I never had to turn the key off and back on to be able to re-start -it would fire up just fine with a quick push of the starter button.
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Old 04-13-2006, 07:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotorPsycho Miko
Forgot to mention it does this on a full tank. I noticed it stalled after I romped on it pretty hard then had to brake fairly hard for a stop. That is why I mentioned the fuel pump or fuel starvation- almost like it can't keep up after full throttle or near full throttle operation(never over red line). I don't baby it but follow the shop manual for maint. intervals.
Does the DL use a charcoal canister for fuel tank venting? Its possible that from overfilling the gas tank, the tank is not venting correctly and starving the fuel pump in high load conditions.

Try cracking the gas cap when it starts to run crappy and let us know if you hear a big WHOOSH.
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Old 04-18-2006, 02:49 PM   #12
husky motard
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My 2002 Strom had a simular problem. There is a tip-over sensor attached to the battery tray that had popped loose. Once reattached the problem went away. The sensor is supposed to shut the motor off if the bike is laying on its side before it runs out of oil.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:26 AM   #13
rojocrandall
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdiaz
Does the DL use a charcoal canister for fuel tank venting? Its possible that from overfilling the gas tank, the tank is not venting correctly and starving the fuel pump in high load conditions.

Try cracking the gas cap when it starts to run crappy and let us know if you hear a big WHOOSH.
I have been having a similar issue with my 2003 DL 1000 - it will stall and run rough until I open & shut the gas cap. It will go months & hundreds of miles in between these episodes.
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:05 AM   #14
simmersonwheels
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Check your throttle cables

I've seen a lot of Vstom 1k with a stalling issue when coming to a stop. If the return throttle cable is a touch too tight, rolling the throttle closed can drop the rpm to the point of stalling.
To quickly check this, with the bike at reg operating temp twist the throttle against the stop, and listen for an rpm drop. If the rpm drops, increase the free play in the return, and take up excessive free play in the opening cable. You should have 1 mm or so free play at the grip.
That said, if this is your issue, you shouldn't have to cycle the key to reset everything to make the unit start.
If you don't cycle the key, does the bike turn over normally, but not fire?

Simon
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:18 AM   #15
rojocrandall
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I just confirmed yesterday that I do need to turn the key to reset everything. I first thought that it was a ventilation issue, but I rode to/from work yesterday with my tank open and I got the usual rough running/non-idle behavior with the gas cap open. After turning off/on the key, it ran fine the remaining 20 miles home.

Knowing this - what can be done? Is it efi mapping? Any advice would be appreciated.
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