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Old 02-14-2014, 06:10 AM   #151
Georgios
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
...

I like the spot filling method as it allows for leaks to be found and repaired quickly. But doesn't the superglue and goop screw up the nipple and make adjusting the spoke impossible? Or is it fine because the wheel should be tried and perfect and the ca acts like a thread locker?

...
I´ve used this method and you´re right about the thread locker. Spokes will only give problems when they loosens, they can´t become tighter by itself.

All the years, I never had problems with the spokes or wheels using this method. Good luck and let us know about your experiences.
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Old 02-15-2014, 04:41 AM   #152
35xj
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did my rear wheel over the last few days. 3 passes with GOOP. mounted up my heidenau yesterday, out 41 PSI in it Dipped it in a bucket.....




NO LEAKS!

debating doing the front now?
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:40 AM   #153
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Cool, I'm going to try the spot method if it doesn't work I'll try something else.

I like woodys method of the superglue to keep the goop from pushing out.
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:07 AM   #154
renogeorge
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I used the Goop process on the rear. Worked great but I did have a slow leak on my trip to Alaska--nothing a topping off every couple of days wouldn't fix. But when I got home and tanked the wheel I noticed small leaks on 3 or 4 spokes. All of these leaks were THROUGH the spoke nipple NOT AROUND the outside. I removed the Goop from the leakers, unscrewed the nipple, cleaned and soaked the spoke end and nipple in metal etching liquid, reassembled with Goop on the threads and "sealing surface" of the nipple and re-Gooped the inside area. Works fine now with no leaks.

My bike is an '07 with lots on grunge on the spokes and wheels. Seems like getting the surfaces clean is the key. Getting Goop down in the threaded inside area of the spoke nipple is important to prevent the type of leaks I had. Thin coats of Goop and let it dry several days if possible.

FWIW
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:31 AM   #155
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been debating putting some slime inside the wheel now, just in case...
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:44 AM   #156
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Slime

I can tell you what doesn't work!! For my first attempt, I Gooped, then wrapped the spoke area in Gorilla tape. When I had slow leaks on the road, I slimed it. When I got back from Alaska and pulled the tire off, the Gorilla tape had disintegrated into mushy strips which were rolling around loose in the tire. So there is some kind of chemical reaction there. I suspect the problem was between the Gorilla tape and the Slime--not the Goop. But, you might want to try a bench experiment with Slime on cured Goop.....
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:35 PM   #157
Chuckracer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35xj View Post
been debating putting some slime inside the wheel now, just in case...
Don't do it. If it's not leaking...it can't get any better than that! You'll hate yourself come tire change time...
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:02 AM   #158
35xj
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still holding air. got about 100 miles on it now.

what's the consensus on doing the front?
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Old 02-18-2014, 05:57 AM   #159
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Go ahead! But work carefully.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:05 AM   #160
Chuckracer
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The problem with the front is the lack of safety bead on the stock 21" rim. If it leaks and looses too much pressure it could spit the bead.

On the other hand...I had a set of 19/17 wheels for my '04 Adventure that HAD the safety bead on the front wheel, had a front tire loose air, spit the bead and put me on my head, so...
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:17 AM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35xj View Post
still holding air. got about 100 miles on it now.

what's the consensus on doing the front?
I see no reason not to do the front. I don't understand the safety bead argument, because the innertube does nothing to hold the tyre in place once the air has escaped (as others have said). A tubeless set-up will normally deflate a lot more slowly, so is far safer.

I sealed my rear with mastic in September 2006 (at 10k km) and have never had a problem - now over 100k km. The only downside is that it's more difficult to change tyres. For this reason, next time I will be tempted to try the Gloop method - the problem is, one cannot adjust the spokes. I can on my mastic version, as I stuck small disks of masking tape on the head of each nipple before applying the mastic.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:23 AM   #162
Idle
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Wink

For a leaky spoke, loctite works a treat. Just align the leaky nipple so it's on the bottom, let the air out and drip a little loctite on the threads. Leave overnight, and air back up in the morning. I cleaned the leaky spoke/nipple with a toothbrush and dried it with compressed air, then tickled it a little with a blow torch before applying the BLUE loctite.

I used Mylar stickers over the nipples, then three coats of black RTV over the stickers, (dot method). I set the wheel on a slightly warm radiator heater overnight and mounted and aired it up the next day.

Proper preperation is key, with sandpaper, steel wool, green scotchbrite ect... and denatured alcohol.

I've NO room at all in the swingarm for an out of true rear wheel, so before every tire change I check and adjust the spokes if necessary, then slather the soapys on to leak check.

The first couple tires, I had a leak or two which I sealed up after dismount.

I've swapped 6 rears out since going tubeless, (12-14k miles) plugged 4 nail/screws in that time.

*cleaning the old rubber off the safety bead before mounting helps to seat the bead I believe.


*Do not place a rim strip over the sealed rim to "protect the sealant".

It makes airing down problematic as the rim strip will spin under acceleration and block the valve stem. I dealt with it by removing the core and puncturing the rimsrip with a small allen wrench for untill my tire wore out.

*Do not put gorilla or duct tape around the rear rim. It will just unravel and end up in a ball or wad. The heat a rear develops, and centripetal force is the culprit I believe.



The best part is you won't even know you picked up a nail or a staple in this case. Fixt in 1/2 a cup of coffee in the morning.





17 x 5.00 Behr rim with safety bead.



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Old 02-18-2014, 07:28 AM   #163
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Oh fwiw, I usually air down for trail riding to 17 front, 15 rear and have not had any slippage whatsoever. (rim/tire marked with paint pen)

The rim just outboard of the safety bead is knurled to keep it from slipping.
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Old 06-03-2014, 08:17 PM   #164
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Well, I am doing this on my Honda Shadow rear tire right now. I went with the 3M 5200 all the way around the rim. I have no idea yet as it takes 7 days to cure. Here is a short video right after I applied the sealant.

Click the weirdly sized photo to see the video

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