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Old 10-18-2010, 02:50 AM   #16
RedRupert
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This is what I used. The rear needed about 1 and a half tubes, so about 6 USD worth.
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:29 AM   #17
viola-tor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRupert
This is what I used. The rear needed about 1 and a half tubes, so about 6 USD worth.
Oooo, and a picture even! Thanks Red! I'm waiting for the valve stems to arrive, hopefully I can get started this week sometime.
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:50 PM   #18
bikyto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor
Oooo, and a picture even! Thanks Red! I'm waiting for the valve stems to arrive, hopefully I can get started this week sometime.
Take pictures when you are doing it!!

Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikyto
Take pictures when you are doing it!!

Thanks!
Will do! I'm excited about this mod.
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Old 10-18-2010, 05:36 PM   #20
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Me too! I'll be watching and reading as well - I'm probably doing mine some time this winter.
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Old 10-20-2010, 02:33 AM   #21
RedRupert
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A few points to take note of while carrying out your tubeless conversion:

The thickish layer of silicon does make tyre removal/mounting a little more difficult, as the tyre is not able to sit as deeply in the rim. This is counteracted to an extent by the fact that you don't have a tube to worry about pinching.

Allow plenty of time for the silicon to cure. I left mine for 2 weeks before fitting the tyre.

I've used talcum powder on the silicon to help prevent it being pulled by the tyre and/or tools when removing/mounting.

I've removed a 100 mm section of the safety bead on both sides of the rim so as to make tyre bead breaking easier. I painted the bare aluminium.

Someone on ADVrider has just used glue over the spoke nipples - this sounds like a better idea as it'll allow easer tyre removal/mounting plus you will always have the option of using a tube if the tyre or rim is badly damaged. With the silicon method, it would be quite a job to excavate the silicon around the valve so that it could be removed to be replaced by the tube's valve.
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RedRupert screwed with this post 10-20-2010 at 02:44 AM
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Old 10-20-2010, 07:57 AM   #22
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I was wondering about that...filling the recess and how that would effect tire changes. The "spot" method over the spoke nipples looks like a much better way to go. Do you have any follow up on who did this, what they used and how it's working?
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:43 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckracer
I was wondering about that...filling the recess and how that would effect tire changes. The "spot" method over the spoke nipples looks like a much better way to go. Do you have any follow up on who did this, what they used and how it's working?
+1, I'd like to hear from folks who are running the tires this "spot" way successfully.

Hmmm, altering/removing the safety bead... Is that, ummm, safe? Isn't the safety bead what makes this whole concept doable, since "off-road" rims normally don't have the safety bead? Breaking the bead would be the same amount of effort as normal (right?), but I can see how mounting/unmounting a tire would be more slightly more difficult due to the reduced dip of the dish. Things to consider...

Also the possibility of running a tube, yes I see that getting the tubeless valve stem OUT from under the silicon would be a chore in order to run a tube in an emergency situation, which is why I wondered if perhaps the valve stem could be seated against the metal of the rim with a silicon "void" around it, which would let you remove it easily and run a tube stem through the hole (assuming the tubeless valve stem will be air-tight against the rim).

Thoughts?
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Old 10-20-2010, 05:34 PM   #24
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I've been using the spot method for a little while now on my street rim. I looked at the options and someone on here had plenty of use on it so I decided it was the way to go. They used 2 coats of "seal all" first and "goop" after. I'm a fan of marine adhesive sealant so opted to use that for my final coat.



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Old 10-20-2010, 05:40 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckracer
I was wondering about that...filling the recess and how that would effect tire changes. The "spot" method over the spoke nipples looks like a much better way to go. Do you have any follow up on who did this, what they used and how it's working?
Here ya go.....LINKY
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Old 10-20-2010, 05:42 PM   #26
FINNDIAN
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Found it
Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg
I've gone tubeless on 3 bikes, 2 Triumph Tigers and most recently my '07 990S. I have 20,000 miles on my 990S this way and recently a rough Nevada cross-country offroad ride at ~25psi on Metzeler Karoo T (a true tubeless knobby), no problems.

Here is my own method I've used since 1999 on spoked bikes after I tested various sealers, with about 90,000 miles on 3 bikes using my sealing system, including trips up the Dempster Hwy in Yukon and Prudhoe Bay in AK, heavily loaded, so I guess it might work OK.

Tubeless method:
http://cyb.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/K...65979444_cW2xa

Tubeless:


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Old 10-20-2010, 06:02 PM   #27
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Do you think using just the Goop would work? Did the chemist have any comments on gas and oil resistance?

I like that stuff and use it a lot. I like how it settles when drying and it would probably fill everywhere down into the nipple.
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Old 10-20-2010, 06:07 PM   #28
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wow nice find. Thanks!
What do you guys think about the effect of tightening the spokes (when needed) after it has been sealed like that?

The other thread mentioned the little piece of paper to allow spoke rotation.
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Old 10-20-2010, 06:33 PM   #29
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Deik: I'm a fan of the 90 degree valve stems.. ran 'em in all my sport bikes (makes checking/filling easier)

That said... offroad I think I'd be careful to face the valve stem "rearward".. I dunno if you had it perpendicular in sand/mud/what not if it might brake one?

Thinking back to your four flats in Montana; do you forsee any of the four not being "plug friendly" in patching?

ok.. one was a defective tube so that would have been a non-issue
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Old 10-20-2010, 09:12 PM   #30
viola-tor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek
Deik: I'm a fan of the 90 degree valve stems.. ran 'em in all my sport bikes (makes checking/filling easier)

That said... offroad I think I'd be careful to face the valve stem "rearward".. I dunno if you had it perpendicular in sand/mud/what not if it might brake one?

Thinking back to your four flats in Montana; do you forsee any of the four not being "plug friendly" in patching?

ok.. one was a defective tube so that would have been a non-issue
Ya, 90 degree stem seems cool, that's what I ordered. Hadn't thought about the possibility of breaking them, the wheels and tires are pretty wide, so I think it'd be a fluke to bugger one, but hey, Murphy's law and all... I'll think about it. Maybe I'll put it facing reward only on the 18" off-road rim...

I KNOW all of my punctures and Dave's could've been easily and quickly fixed if we had something like this done. That's why I'm doing it!

Bought the silicon today (some 3M stuff, it all looked the same "100% Silicon"), waiting for the valve stems. This full-dish-wrap is the way Woody seals them (I think?) so I guess I'll try this first. That Cyborg tutorial is intriguing...
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