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Old 10-10-2008, 12:54 PM   #16
kg23
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Super how-to! Great pictures.

I opted to buy a new water pump to minimize my downtime.

I'll sell the old one if someone wants to rebuild it ahead of tearing down their bike. PM me.

-Kip
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Old 10-13-2008, 10:57 AM   #17
crazybrit
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Large chunk of the cost is the bearing

6001-2RS is a easily sourced bearing. C3 has slightly more internal clearance than standard (probably not that important). SKF 6001-2RS-C3 are commonly available online for ~$6 and SKF is a very high quality bearing.
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Old 10-14-2008, 05:42 AM   #18
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit
6001-2RS is a easily sourced bearing. C3 has slightly more internal clearance than standard (probably not that important). SKF 6001-2RS-C3 are commonly available online for ~$6 and SKF is a very high quality bearing.
+1 on the bearings sourced locally.

No need to pay full tilt for KTM, Honda, Husky, BMW, etc. bearings from a M/C dealership when any local bearing house very likely stocks everything you need.

Dirty
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Old 04-05-2009, 04:14 PM   #19
dhally
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Water pump shaft turns hard

I just put my water pump back together (thanks for the great how-to!).

The shaft turns fairly hard by finger. Does anybody remember how easy the shaft turns ? I'm worried I may have got a seal lip folded over. The seal looks fine from the outside but I couldn't see the inner seal lip as I was pressing the shaft and bearings in.
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Old 04-05-2009, 04:41 PM   #20
kg23
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As I recall, the brand new pump I bought exhibited a steady, smooth resistance when spun by hand (fingers). I wouldn't call it "difficult" as it wasn't hard on the hands or anything, but was a little surprised it didn't spin effortlessly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dhally
I just put my water pump back together (thanks for the great how-to!).

The shaft turns fairly hard by finger. Does anybody remember how easy the shaft turns ? I'm worried I may have got a seal lip folded over. The seal looks fine from the outside but I couldn't see the inner seal lip as I was pressing the shaft and bearings in.
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Old 09-21-2009, 07:56 PM   #21
Sean70
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Thanks for the excellent how to LC4 pilot, much appreciated.

I've now pulled my pump apart, and am replacing everything.

I've one quick question though, with the rubber seal that the shaft goes through, there is a bit of a recess on the inside that looks like it may be a good place to put some rubber friendly (red castrol) grease or some water proof grease, to lube the shaft that is spinning inside it. Has anyone done this? My shaft was a little bit worn in this area and was thinking some lube may have reduced this wear?

Cheers

S
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:49 PM   #22
wrk2surf
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the shaft wears out eventually,,,after about 4 rebuilds..
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:46 PM   #23
Nom de Guerre OP
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Sean, I'm glad you found the article helpful. I just put a light coating of motor oil on the shaft, mainly to help the shaft seat in the rubber seal properly. It's a tight fit, so it's easy to accidentally have the edges of the rubber seal not sit properly by being pushed outward from the insertion of the shaft.

Sorry if that sounds "dirty," but I don't know how else to word it!

If your shaft is significantly worn, you may consider replacing that too, since I don't know if a coating of oil will be sufficient to seal it.

Good luck!
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:48 PM   #24
Sean70
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There's enough room in there for a little grease, as well as the surface isn't totally flat, it's a little concave on the inside.

I'll have a think about it, I may put some grease in there.

Cheers

S
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Old 09-23-2009, 07:23 PM   #25
Sean70
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About to put it all together again tonight.

Still not 100% sure on the loctite to use for the seal, I've bought the 603, only worried it mightn't hold up under heat as well as the 648, but I'm not going to fork out $50 for a bottle just to use 3-4 drops!!

Also found NTN bearings, part#: 6001 LLUC3/2AS which are cheap.

If anyone has anything against NTN bearings please let me know and i'll buy some SKF ones instead.

Cheers

S
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Old 09-23-2009, 07:29 PM   #26
yosso
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean70
About to put it all together again tonight.

Still not 100% sure on the loctite to use for the seal, I've bought the 603, only worried it mightn't hold up under heat as well as the 648, but I'm not going to fork out $50 for a bottle just to use 3-4 drops!!

Also found NTN bearings, part#: 6001 LLUC3/2AS which are cheap.

If anyone has anything against NTN bearings please let me know and i'll buy some SKF ones instead.

Cheers

S
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-648-Re.../dp/B0016KU6MU

$11.43 @ Amazon for the little bottle.

I just noticed that you're "Down Under"...so I guess Amazon is out. sorry. :(

yosso screwed with this post 09-23-2009 at 07:47 PM
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:05 AM   #27
Sean70
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Cheers, yes down in Oz.

I'm going to go with the 609 (not the 603 as stated above), I've cleaned the housing up with petrol and then acetone and rags. I'll coat the seal outside surface with the 609 and press it in in a bit. I'll then give it around 24hrs to cure before I put the shaft and bearings in.

S
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Old 10-03-2009, 08:24 PM   #28
yosso
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Cry Two seals is one too many.

Okay, I manged to get the WP off the bike and all of the various and sundry parts of the WP have been removed...but I'm having trouble getting the shaft driven thru the seal. I've destroyed two seals (one of which I spent three hours driving down and back this afternoon to pickup from the closest KTM dealer)...so obviously I'm doing something wrong.

I just placed the order for two more seals, as the "local" dealer won't be open Monday, and I'm pretty sure they said they only had the one seal in stock.

So, any additional hints or tips on installing the "shaft" thru the seal...more lubricant, more cowbell, more ???

Has anyone tried installing the seal on the shaft and then installing the entire assembly into the housing? I can force the seal on the shaft, but that seal is a bit wacked (one of the retaining springs, keeps falling out) so I'm going to have to wait until next weekend to play with an undamaged seal.

FWIW, I'm using a new shaft and the edge of he shaft seems too sharp, I might try to put a very, very slight chamfer and see if that helps it "slip in".

Pictures for those who might be interested...


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Old 10-03-2009, 08:35 PM   #29
gunnerbuck
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Yes, there was an inmate that first installed the seal on the shaft and then successfully pressed it in....

What are you using to press the bearings/shaft into the housing?
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Old 10-03-2009, 08:37 PM   #30
dhally
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I pushed the shaft in by hand, with some lube. It was real tight , after it was assembled I could barely turn the shaft by hand. No wonder they wear out.
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