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Old 04-21-2011, 01:42 PM   #76
bisbonian
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Just to be sure, are the bearings a press fit on the water pump shaft?

When I was taking mine apart I found that the bearings could slide back and forth a little bit.

The water pump shaft doesn't appear worn but I don't know, I was thinking that the snap ring keeps it all together but want to be safe.
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Old 04-23-2011, 03:29 AM   #77
makazica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bisbonian View Post
Just to be sure, are the bearings a press fit on the water pump shaft?

When I was taking mine apart I found that the bearings could slide back and forth a little bit.

The water pump shaft doesn't appear worn but I don't know, I was thinking that the snap ring keeps it all together but want to be safe.
They are a press fit but on the last pump I have rebuild the bearings were also sliding back and forth. My suggestion would be to replace the bearings and the shaft if any visible marks of wear are present, also replacing the seal is a must.

M.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:17 AM   #78
bisbonian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makazica View Post
They are a press fit but on the last pump I have rebuild the bearings were also sliding back and forth. My suggestion would be to replace the bearings and the shaft if any visible marks of wear are present, also replacing the seal is a must.

M.
Thanks, the shaft appears pristine but I'll give a good look again just to be sure.
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Old 04-23-2011, 02:37 PM   #79
makazica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bisbonian View Post
Thanks, the shaft appears pristine but I'll give a good look again just to be sure.
No problem....

Thinking more about it now.....new bearings went onto the new shaft half way in only with me pressing them with my fingers so let's say they are a "weak press fit"....
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:55 PM   #80
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Update to this post:

I was told that the only way coolant can come out of that hole is via a passage way it is not suppose to be going through...some kind of internal cracked something and it's finding it's way out that hole. Apparently, the hole is drilled through to base of the spark plug reservoir and it's simply a means for water to get out had you river crossed or someway gotten water up in that spark plug hole!

Speculation aside, I was advised by my mechanic who was advised directly from Husky to use Prestone's "Super Sealer" for hairline internal cracks and it worked!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geekventure View Post
So there are 3 O-Rings for the thermostat...



P#31: 0770 320020 O-RING 32.00X2.00
P#33: 0770 021020 O-RING 21.00X2.00 NBR70

If my coolant is coming out of that little hole on the top right side of the head block...



Originally Posted by 666



Which O-Rings do I need to replace...#31(x2) or #33?
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Old 11-04-2011, 12:35 AM   #81
bmwktmbill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bisbonian View Post
Thanks, the shaft appears pristine but I'll give a good look again just to be sure.
Be sure to check for wear at the seal contact points on the shaft.

bill
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:11 PM   #82
whitelightnin01
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Is the loctite 648 a must or can a high temp red RTV be used? If not is there a substitute for the 648?
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:17 PM   #83
bmwktmbill
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Use RTV where?
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:02 AM   #84
warewolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitelightnin01 View Post
Is the loctite 648 a must or can a high temp red RTV be used? If not is there a substitute for the 648?
search the loctite thread, IIRC we had a good discussion on it with dirty_sanchez. I ended up buying a largish 50mL bottle of 648 because I didn't have any of the suitable alternatives.
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:21 AM   #85
Tseta
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For a LC4 water pump rebuild, I would consider the loctite 648 as "optional". I've now rebuilt four waterpumps without using it (even though I have some on the shelf for other uses...) and they've all been fine so far. YMMV.

The seal is not going to be able to drift much anywhere even without the retaining compound. On the other side there is the pump housing's shoulder, on the other side the bearings butt up on it. The bearings are held tightly in the bore, and even secured with a clip.

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Old 11-14-2011, 09:45 AM   #86
gunnerbuck
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The retaining compound 648 is just a safety measure to stop the seal from spinning in the housing... There is quite a bit of seal lip resistance when spinning the waterpump shaft so it is not a bad idea to use a retaining compound... Especially if your seal seats into the pump with little resistance...
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:45 AM   #87
Alik
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In course of the winter time management I decided to pull the cover and do water pump rebuild drill. No milky oil or coolant loss - just a precaution but by judging the components You can see that it was not very far from a leak.

Some pictures of what I have found inside. Maybe it will be of some value to the group.

Bearings have some funny bubbles on the plastic sealing surfaces? Looks like coolant have had already been inside? :(



Seal is shot. Rusty spring on the water side.



Shaft looks also shot to me. Am I right?



Orings look not healthy too. They will be replaced anyway :)





The pump propeller is OK - looks like it is still original one (02" stamp on the housing).



Remainings of the gasket:



Somebody was already here and was not so gently as I to the pump housing.
:(





Housing looked dirty. Cleaned and scrubbed looks way better.





Plan is to replace the bearings and seal and sad but true the shaft and renew gasket too.

Now to the rocker cover stuff...
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:55 PM   #88
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitelightnin01 View Post
Is the loctite 648 a must or can a high temp red RTV be used? If not is there a substitute for the 648?
Ethylene Glycol breaks down Red High Temp RTV's. Please don't use it on the waterpump or anywhere else on your motorcycle. There are much more suitable sealants to use.

Read over the Loctite thread.

Keep in mind when KTM spec's in a product they're working with a Loctite guy in Austria who helps choose the best product for an application. Sometimes the products they choose are only available in EU-they may not be available here in the states.

648 is applied to the ID of the seal's mating surface in the waterpump housing to prevent the seal from spinning in the housing. I didn't have 648 when I rebuilt the waterpump on my '03 640 but use another retaining compound. I also used the same retaining compound on the shaft of the waterpump to mount the bearings, then more retaining compound on the bore of the waterpump before I pressed in the bearings.

Retaining compounds are designed to augment the strength of bearing fits so the inner or outer race does not spin in the housing or on the shaft.

Dirty
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:04 AM   #89
lovemoto
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Old 01-06-2013, 10:14 PM   #90
Syncrosimon
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Pump shaft seal orientation

Just taken apart my 400. Never been opened. It's a 1998 engine on 15000 miles.

This is the water side of the seal.Ktm top end
And this is the oil side.Ktm top end

The inner and outer seals wear differently on the shaft.
Ktm top end
Ktm top end

Hope it may help with working out which way to put the seal.

The oil in the inner bearing was ever so slightly milky. I have ordered new parts. The scuffing can barely be felt with the finger nail, more like polishing.
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