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Old 06-19-2008, 10:57 AM   #16
F_G
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380

I had an '02 380EXC and seem to remember the needle I ran being an N3EW which was one taper leaner than stock. And did go down to a 35 pilot. However this information may be unreliable as that was 4 years ago and I seemed to have thrown away my settings. Great bike, definitely a low to mid engine, did vibrate a bit though.
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by potatoho
One of the last things I did to my old 300 was to close up a leak in the choke circuit of its PWK carburetor. I suppose on the smaller bores, the choke plunger seal for the air passage is fine, but on mine it allowed a significant amount of unmetered air into the motor. This screwed up the off-idle running.

On the PWK the simple solution was to plug up the large choke port on the intake bell. This eliminates the high-idle for starting, which can be a problem. The benefit is that it will give a more consistent air-fuel draw at part throttle, making it easier to dial in for best power.

You can also experiment with different slides. And I prefer the triple taper needles so I bought a bunch of them and picked the one that felt the best. A bit harder to dial in but you get a nice off-idle hit with them that works wonders for sand and short shifting.
Cool, thanks for the input.
How did you find the leak?
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:27 PM   #18
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my favorite thing about the 380 is it's second/third gear usage... you really don't need any other gears. it will idle right down in the twisty stuff, then shoot like a rocket when needed. +1 vote for best two stroker ever.
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRAsH
Cool, thanks for the input.
How did you find the leak?
I was experimenting with different choke plungers, i.e. using a PWM version in a PWK, and I noticed that a poor fit caused problems. The PWM fit was not as good, and the symptom was that it magnified the part throttle sputter. So the PWM choke was not good in a PWK, but also it made me wonder about the stock PWK choke.

So then I capped off the intake hole and tested it, and it significantly reduced the part throttle sputter. Choke operation is different, in my case it's actually an improvement, but in most tunes the removal of the high choke idle speed causes harder starting.

Anyways, that's just one problem with these crapuretors. The float system is a joke.
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Old 06-19-2008, 01:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain
my favorite thing about the 380 is it's second/third gear usage... you really don't need any other gears. it will idle right down in the twisty stuff, then shoot like a rocket when needed. +1 vote for best two stroker ever.


I hauls my big ass around no problemo.
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Old 06-19-2008, 02:37 PM   #21
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I have a 380 that I've not been able to ride because the motor sucks oil. I was very close to putting in a sweet late-year 250SX motor but the deal fell through. I honestly think that would have been awesome. My 300 has an aftermarket CDI and pro-lite piston, and it revs to infinity which feels insane. I think the 250 would be even moreso.
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Old 06-19-2008, 02:56 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRAsH
Just joined the big bore 2t world with an '01 380 EXC.

What a fun ride.

Has anybody got one that doesn't spooge like crazy?

Spooge is part of the equation. I have a 2000 250exc and spent the best part of a year trying to jet it. I was trying to get rid of the spooge and the "run-on" when the throttle was closed. (it would continue revving after I stopped and was sitting with the throttle closed.) One of the tricks is to set the idle as low as possible w/o stalling. I ended up getting the JamesDean jet kit and all problems solved, Except Spooge. Learn to live with it. Change the muffler packing often. Check out KTMTALK it has a dedicated jetting thread and JamesDean himself checks in and helps. Save yourself the trouble and spend the money for his kit. It works. He gives you 2 proprietary needles that work much better than anything out there.
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:43 PM   #23
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You can actually get things running with zero spooge. But well, if you work all of the throttle positions during your ride then it's a challenge. It still pollutes particulates but it's all cocoa powder looking stuff by the time it reaches the endcap.
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Old 06-19-2008, 06:54 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cRAsH
Yeah, in retrospect I could have bought a bunch of needles/jets for the price of the JD kit.

Live and learn.

I'm running a 7.0 slide (Slavens grind). The issue is right off idle, so I'm thinking needle diameter?
It came with a NOZI needle, maybe I should try it with the 35 pilot?

Anyway, thanks for your help and good luck with your new motor!
If you want to keep the NOZ needles ask around and see is you can find someone with 1 size larger and smaller base diameter. Your KTM dealer can get them but they are $20+- each. I tried a few but never could get them smooth enough for my liking. I'd try the NOZI and 35 just to see if you already have it. Potatoho's choke plug he mentioned make a easily noticable difference in throttle response. I never had a problem starting with it plugged until i went to the mountains. Jetting was off as well making things worse. I gave up kicking. Half way down the steep ass drive way the rear tire would grab and i just had time to turn at the bottom and avoid a huge drop off . The 1st time REALLY had me puckered but it worked for morning starts!
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Old 06-19-2008, 07:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LILBIT
Potatoho's choke plug he mentioned make a easily noticable difference in throttle response. I never had a problem starting with it plugged until i went to the mountains.


I live at 7200', and generally go up from here.
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Old 06-20-2008, 04:27 AM   #26
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Mine was bad because i showed up jetted for sea level and 90 degrees. It was 60 degrees there at 4500'. Had to quess at a place to start on the needle setting. Properly jetted the plug is not an issue. Mine is still a 1-2 kick deal when cold at home. The enrichment circuit stll works just not the air bleed(no high idle). Now i've just have to hold the throttle a crack. Before i could walk away for 45 seconds.
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:23 AM   #27
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Man, you guys make me want to go get a big 2 smoke. I always thought the modern day jap 250s were a kick in the pants, id love to try a ktm 300 380 or jap 500. The only time i ever spent on a 2 smoke was my YZ125 which i got when i was 14 years old and still have to this day.
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:12 PM   #28
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Kinda reviving this thread as I happened upon an opportunity to pick up one of these babies.

The scoop:

01' KTM 380 with low hours. He races bikes, and this was a bike that landed on his lap from sponsors but was rarely used.

Price: $1500 CDN

Why? Has 9 or so bikes and they just keep piling up. Needs to clean out a bunch of them and is selling a couple to friends for cheap as he cannot be bothered to sell em and deal with that BS himself.

Questions:

Good price? (Almost a duh question I believe, but have not purchased dirt bikes for 15 years. I use to race MX)

Reliability? Are these like the 2 stroke race bikes where top ends need to be rebuild frequently?

Parts? Are parts still accessable for these bikes?

Feedback appreciated!
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Old 06-16-2009, 05:10 PM   #29
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Buy it.

You'll only need a set of rings every year or two (if you ride it alot). Just watch the compression and you'll be fine.

It's great for us bigger boys.
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Old 06-16-2009, 05:39 PM   #30
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Top end is good for most folks to 100 hrs. Many run WAY more. Some just rering and go again. I'd check the power valve to piston clearance. I had my 300 and 380 start rubbing the piston as the orings wore well before the rest of the top end needed anything. If set to factory spec i'd have to grind on the PV flapper. It's worth the effort for even more bottom end torque. Pretty comman for older engines to suck a little air through the crankcase gasket. There's a thin spot on the gasket which starts it. Easy fix but makes jetting impossible until done.

I had to have the head cut and lower the compression to get the jetting perfect but it was perfect! With streetable gearing i could tap the clutch and snap up 4th gear wheelies. It'd run all rpm ranges clean but stock it drove me crazy.

Crank bearings and seals are KTM only and a litttle pricey. No aftermarket for the bottom end but there is for the piston and rings. Great engine to work on. You don't even need a puller to split the cases. Just a rubber mallet.

LILBIT screwed with this post 06-16-2009 at 05:46 PM
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