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Old 04-30-2006, 08:07 PM   #1
James_KLR_650 OP
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Engine dies with slightest turn of throttle - KLR650

Hi Guys, Problem: My KLR 650 engine dies with the slightest turn of the throttle, every time.
If I apply the choke at all, this also kills the engine. Before itwent into storage I would use choke to start it without problems,and turned choke off after warmed up. If I give a *little choke* plus *a little gas* simultaneously, itdies instantly.My inference is that with more gas but less air, it still kills it...Does this help to focus the source of the problem?
What might be the causes and solutions for this problem? Background: My bike is a 1997, 4500 miles, and was in storage for three years without the TLC it should have had like a fuel stabilizer, etc. first.
It is all stock. Battery was dead when removing from storage. So far, I removed the gas tank and dumped the old gas. Put in new gas along with SEAFOAM. After adding SEAFOAM fuel cleaner, I let it idle for about ten to fifteen minutes. Engine became warm, idles at about 1500, and idles generally smoothly. However, the very instant one barely turns the throttle, the engine dies in a flash.
Assuming that cleaning of part of the bike is needed,
which web pages offer photos and "step by step" guidance
for the job..if any?
Thanks very much in advance for your help! James/ California
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Old 04-30-2006, 08:11 PM   #2
Mr Kawasaki
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Did a mouse build a nest in your airbox? No, I'm not kidding.
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Old 04-30-2006, 08:44 PM   #3
Dagofast
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Yep, check the airbox.

But 3 years without fuel stabilizer pretty much guarantees your carb is gummed up. Even 3 years WITH a fuel stabilizer would probably gum up the works.

You shoulda drained the tank and the carb, but that ship sailed.

Seafoam is good, but I doubt it's gonna save you now. You can try a quickie carb cleaning:

Place a small clean pan under the carb. Open the drain on the float bowl and see how much crud comes out.

Then, take off the bolt in the center of the handlebar lever for the choke, remove the cable and feed it down towards the carb a few inches. Remove the gas and vacuum lines from the petcock. Loosen the clamps on the front and rear of the carb, then rotate the carb CCW so the bottom of the carb is facing the right hand side of the bike. *be careful not to hit the plastic choke cable "thingy" on the left side of the carb* It breaks easy, DAMHIK.

Remove the screws on the float bowl and tap it lightly to break it loose. Now remove the float and needle. Then remove the pilot, main and starter jets.

From the right side of the bike, remove the top screws from the cover. CAREFULLY remove the diaphram, slide and needle. Inspect the diaphram for any tears or holes. (hold it up to the light) Replace if any damage is found.

Spray some carb cleaner into all the passages. Let it soak. Then blow out with compressed air.

Here is a link to all the info on this carb you'll ever want: http://jimrace.com/faq/CVK40.html

Good luck!
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Old 04-30-2006, 08:53 PM   #4
holycaveman
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Yep your carb need cleaned out .

Your slide is stuck, thats why it dies as soon as you give it gas. All from being gummed up.

DON"T even waste your time trying to shortcut it. Take it off completely and totally clean every nook, cranny, orphas, hole, etc......

Then you wont have any problems

Make sure you totally draing all that junk out of the tank also.
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:01 PM   #5
HighwayChile
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i'm an idiot mechanic. not sure what seafoam is. could this have an effect? most fuel dryers are alcohol.
did you drain the carb of old swill? chances are the carb has gumbo in it.

the rat nest idea is worth a look it could be straved for air.
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Old 04-30-2006, 09:09 PM   #6
James_KLR_650 OP
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Seafoam - explanation

Thanks for your feedback.....

FYI: SEAFOAM is for cleaning carbs and tanks, fuel lines, removes water,
seems fairly popular. See: http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTech.htm


Quote:
Originally Posted by HighwayChile
i'm an idiot mechanic. not sure what seafoam is. could this have an effect? most fuel dryers are alcohol.
did you drain the carb of old swill? chances are the carb has gumbo in it.

the rat nest idea is worth a look it could be straved for air.
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Old 04-30-2006, 10:38 PM   #7
eaglemike
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Seafoam is a great start (get it? ) for a bike that's been sitting. A thorough cleaning is in order. The other classic reason a KLR650 dies when the throttle is opened is a damaged carb diaphragm...... get the Harley replacement, as the Kaw part is $$$ - the harley part is $$. See the KLR650 FAQ maintained by Chris Krok at www.bigcee.com for part number, and other useful info. You might also replace all the vacuum lines - cheap $$, and pretty easy.

all the best,

Mike
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Old 05-02-2006, 03:20 AM   #8
Tholund
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I recently went through a carb that had been sitting for two years without stabilizer...the fuel had turned to a "jelley like" substance and had plugged both the idle and main jet. You are probably looking at similar situation.

Dan
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Old 05-02-2006, 04:25 AM   #9
James_KLR_650 OP
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jelly gas in carb

Dan,

What various steps and products did you use to fix that nasty situation?

If you could write a "step by step" type of reply, that would be most helpful. My first time with work on the KLR.

Thanks in advance for your time and help!

James
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Old 05-02-2006, 02:41 PM   #10
Tholund
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James_KLR_650
Dan,

What various steps and products did you use to fix that nasty situation?

If you could write a "step by step" type of reply, that would be most helpful. My first time with work on the KLR.

Thanks in advance for your time and help!

James
Do you have a service manual? Having one will save lots of headaches during this proces... You need to remove the carb, float bowl, needle/seat, jets, and slide assembly. Wearing eye protection, use some pressurized carb cleaner (spray can & spray tube) to "blast" the obstructions out of the fuel passage ways. Having an air compressor to blast some air thru helps a lot. You can try soaking the carb & parts also...but it seems like you usually need some "force" behind the cleaner stream to get all the crap out.

Since you have everything apart already, now would be a good time to purchase a rebuilt kit and replace the supplied parts. Be sure to check your float height setting per the service manual specs. I also like to put a liberal amount of carb/injector fuel treatment in the first tank of gas to make sure any residual crap is dissolved.

After all the above, always add fuel stabilizer to your gas when ever you think it will be 30 or more days till your next ride. Even with stabilizer, the fuel will need to be changed out at a maximum of one year's time.

Dan
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Old 05-02-2006, 04:32 PM   #11
eaglemike
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You don't have to remove the carb on the KLR650 to clean it, replace jets, etc...........

all the best,

Mike
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Old 05-02-2006, 06:42 PM   #12
Plugger
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Lots of good advice here. I second or third the carb. Take it off and disassemble and clean everything. Check Marknet for step by step procedures for the CVK 40 carb.
Do a google search for multi surface motorcycling or Marknet and see if it gets you there.

Best of luck and keep us informed.
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Old 05-02-2006, 08:02 PM   #13
James_KLR_650 OP
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UPDATE on KLR650 that dies if throttle is touched

Thank you again to all who've helped me, and here is an update
on my bike's status after applying your suggestions today.

BEFORE TODAY:
--------------
My KLR650 was stored FOR 3 years without proper TLC beforehand. It has 4500 miles on it, and is all stock.

This week, after adding fresh gas it would idle at 1500 smoothly, but upon slightest turn of the throttle or use of choke it would die instantly. Advice I was was largely aimed at the need to clean the fuel system, either completely removing the carb or incrementally at the petcock and add more if necessary.

AFTER TODAYS WORK:

A friend helped me today to remove the carburator and the petcock. Using liberal amounts of SEAFOAM fuel cleaner, we cleaned each part and removed the jets and same for them. Cleaning of jets included moving a very fine "wire" through to clear blockage of varnish or gum. We also brushed SEAFOAM onto the two filters in the tank. Although we saw no "pieces" of rust or gunk on those filters, in the tank, or elsewhere, we did feel the surface of those filters was "gunky" and looked better after twenty minutes of careful brushing. We didn't notice any damage to anything. We replaced the stock sparkplug with an identical new sparkplug. We did not think the old sparkplug looked to bad.

We reassembled the bike at end of the work. Added two gallons of new gas
and one can of seafoam. It was very reluctant to start after some ten to fifteen hits to the starter button. We stopped to check if fuel was in the carb bowl, and found that there was a good amount of fuel in the bowl by loosening the hex screw.

We decided that perhaps the ratio of SEAFOAM to gas was too much, and drained all the gas and SEAFOAM from the tank. We added two more gallons of brand new gas without any SEAFOAM. We waited five to ten minutes to talk about it.

When we tried to start it again the engine positively roared aggressively with good strong rpms, no more backfires as per last week. While it fluctuated a little it settled down to an idle for a couple of minutes and then sputtered to nothing and died. We then discovered that my buddy had not hooked up the fuel lines, thus the "roar to life" must have been using the bit of fuel from the carb bowl.

Then we connected the fuel lines, checked all the other obvious stuff for startup. It would not start. We probably hit that start button some twenty to thirty times. The most that it would do is give the brief impression of "throatiness" as though it would start....maybe two seconds of feigning a start, but just nothing.

We are thoroughly puzzled about what we might have missed or what might explain this odd behavior. After all, before we cleaned the carb and petcock we were able to start it up pretty readily, and it would idly rather smoothly at 1500 rpm. We just could *touch" the throttle.

I think this is all the salient background. I would really appreciate any further guideance, specific steps, etc.

Thanks in advance for your time and thought!
James/California
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Old 05-02-2006, 10:04 PM   #14
MaverickAus
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If there was crap in the system maybe you just disturbed it and its now blocking things up, I'd pull off the tank / carbie again and clean it all out again including filters. I don't know what that seafoam stuff is but I wouldn't add it to your fuel, just use clean fuel in the tank when starting the bike. Perhaps a new fuel filter might help to?

Hows the air filter?

cheers

Garry
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Old 05-02-2006, 11:29 PM   #15
Wufnu
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"I don't know what that seafoam stuff is"

From what I've read online, it appears to be liquid miracle.
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